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Camino Portuguese
  • Journey to Kimba
  • Journey to Kimba

Camino Portuguese

From September 17 to October 16, 2024, I’ll be on a spiritual pilgrimage from Porto, Portugal to Santiago de Campostella, Spain. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 17, 2024
    Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba

    Prepping day 1

    July 27, 2024 in the United States ☀️ 81 °F

    Planning where I need to go and how to get there once in Porto. Metro from airport to first hotel. Then walk to Porto cathedral to pick up our Camino passport then after a rest, take the metro to the Decathlon store to buy trekking poles. I can do this.Read more

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    Got my itinerary

    August 2, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 90 °F

    I got my final itinerary. Hotels booked, excursions booked. Vouchers for the basic necessities. It’s real!
    I’m getting excited and my nerves are kind of calming, knowing where I’ll be staying. I still have to build up to longer walks and more hills, but I’m feeling oddly detached from that.
    I will be taking long breaks and walking most of the day most days. I will be tired, but I now believe my body/mind can handle it.
    And the booking company provides phone numbers for local taxis.
    Classic pilgrims would accept the miracle of a donkey rental, don’t you think?    Read more

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    5 weeks and counting

    August 13, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 73 °F

    5 weeks to go. I’m adjusting my gear based on what is and isn’t working. Aussie hat out. Wide brim with vents in. Compression hiking socks out, merino crew socks in. I’d prefer hikers rash not on my whole calf, thank you.

    Cell food and Vitamin B in. Ibuprofen in. Turmeric in. Ok wait a minute. What can I buy in Portugal? I’m limited to a carry on, into which I can stuff my backpack, and one personal item. I will have bag transport service while underway but not until then. More adjustments coming.

    I barely managed a 10 mile walk this weekend and have to do it again tomorrow despite the ache and stiffness. The fear of my body not being up to it is real. The fear is real. Probably not the thought underneath the fear. I was reminded of the value of tapping to help clear out the source of stuck emotions and faulty thoughts. That’s part of my practice this week, added to steps and stretches.

    Ultreia Kimba (keep going)!!    Read more

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    I petered out

    August 14, 2024 in the United States ☀️ 84 °F

    I started early at Bell Mills Park in Chesapeake after a 4:30 wake up. It was grassy and very dewy. My feet got soaked within a couple of minutes. I was sharing the path with the high school track team, I think. Glistening, skinny forms passed and passed and lapped me.
    I was serenaded by cicadas and caught some early morning sun pics.

    But I tired out quickly. I rested, snacked, rested, peed. And I just couldn’t fathom doing 10 miles or 4 cycles around the meadow. 5K was it today.
    Home for tick checks, shower and 2 more hours in bed. A little disappointed, but really, there was no way today.
    3 hours later, I still have no energy, no bones in my body. Limp rag. What was in that dew???    Read more

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    Magothy Bay hike

    August 23, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 79 °F

    2.5 miles around marshland. Noticed some wetland birds that Icannot identify. Plus a brood of momma and 3 baby peacocks I think. Gray but with the telltale crown, and I spotted the blue male down the road. No plumage.
    Mom sent me off to do the full loop while she got eaten up by skeeters. Not wanting to leave her alone too long, it was the fastest 4k I’ve done.
    Even with the fast walk, I managed to marvel at the marsh birds and cycle of life in the estuary.
    Its fun to pretend that I’ll get some of this flat grass and sand path on my way.    Read more

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    Noland trail

    August 26, 2024 in the United States 🌙 63 °F

    Very nice place with small hills. My shoes held up nicely- no jamming of the toes on the down hills. Kudos to who ever maintains this trail.

    Lots of big trees down through the years, cut to keep the path clear. Made me think of Grandpa Smith riding logs down the Allegheny river to a mill in Pittsburgh. Golly that had to be hard. My long walks ain’t nothing in comparison. Grandpa, please send me some of your gumption.Read more

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    Solo travel: Details and defense

    September 5, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 70 °F

    I’m watching videos on travel, not just the Camino and tourism in Porto. Videos on new enforcement of carry on rules and safety and pick pockets.

    I used to count on a waist pack to tuck in my important and easily to-hand items, but now you have to shove that into your personal item so you have 1 and only one item for under the seat. Garumph!

    Then when you arrive and are trying to work out the train system, in a foreign language and foreign money and barely coherent from next to no sleep, dehydration, and traveling back in time, or is it forward in time, whatever, you have to be super aware of skilled pick pockets, distractions, all of your bags and phones and items. And getting on the right color car, getting off at the right stop and juggling your map app to guess how to navigate crowded, potentially risky streets to your destination. And the checkin time won’t be for another 4 or 5 sleepless hours, well into the wee early hours of your body’s confused clock.

    Doing it alone. Yeah. Brilliant. I’ll call on Pilgrim Angels to support me. What else can I do!    Read more

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    Magnesium warning

    September 10, 2024 in the United States ☀️ 81 °F

    I did my longest walking day yet. 11.5 miles. The ache started even before I got home, so stretching, hot shower, electrolytes (with magnesium), turmeric, vitamin B and D, magnesium tablets, rest.
    Just before bed I asked for magnesium oil rub on the back of my legs.
    So this morning, I intended to walk it off early. At 6:30, lap one around the neighborhood. By 2/3rds, my guts were talking. I rushed home as fast as my tight ankles would take me while squeezing and saying “please, please hold on until…”.

    I’m happy to report that I made it, no change of clothes needed.

    Lesson learned- it is possible to take/absorb too much Mg.    Read more

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    All my bags are packed

    September 14, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 75 °F

    All my bags are packed
    I’m ready to go.
    Camino’s calling
    To carry me on.
    Already I’m so charged
    That I can’t sleep.

    You get the idea. Now maybe that ear worm will go away.

    Three more days, baby. I am stoked!Read more

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    What’s my Why?

    September 14, 2024 in the United States ☁️ 81 °F

    Why am I doing a crazy long pilgrimage walk (150 miles or so) in a foreign country when I’m not even Catholic?
    1) To build courage and confidence.
    2) To get a better sense of what’s next in my suddenly changed life.
    3) To walk for peace on the planet. Zoom in on the pic of what I ‘ve written on my insoles so that every step will be a prayer.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    The starting point.
    The starting point.1Cobbled street artWalking on very hard uneven cobblestone1Major wealth on display inside Porto Cathedral1Porto is famous for the tiles. These blue ones are azulejosSmoky!Lots of historic statuesClericos tower in the background. My knees hurt too much to tackleView of rooftops from Porto CathedralTypical street near city centerAirport nameSmoky skies from Sao Bento metro stationPastel de nata. Portugal's finest afternoon treat

    Porto

    September 18, 2024 in Portugal ☀️ 79 °F

    Smoky skies. We could smell the smoke from the airplane. From elevation, west of the city was coated. The customs agent warned me to be careful when I get on the central route because of the woodlands. The hotel receptionist said the fires are not yet controlled. The map of where the fires are is well west of here. Great big out of my control gulp. My hotels are all reserved, I can’t change paths.

    Otherwise so many new and old things. I have to keep my eyes open to figure it out. After several fails with the Metro, I finally asked when I first entered the station which line would take me in the right direction.
    Me and a middle aged man in the elevator going down from the main thoroughfare: me- “Fala Ingles?”
    Him- “blah blah blah pecenho blah blah”
    Me-“Trinidade estacion? Track uno or dos?”
    Him- “Trinidade?”
    Me-“Sim, Trinidade”
    He points to an escalator “caish doish”
    I point and nod questioningly
    Him-“Santo olivado”. Pointing and nodding.
    So I took the escalator to the train on track 2 going to Santo Olivado.
    And had to get off at the next stop because he sent me in the wrong direction, bless him.

    Steep cobblestone streets. Crowded. twisty. Construction.
    Hot. Feet hurt just from navigating from the airport metro to my hotel.

    I prayed for everyone at the Porto Cathedral. Ornate, gold, old. The holy water basins are empty but there are purell stands instead. I assume they are blessed by the local bishop 😉.

    I am glad to be here and look forward to fewer people. And simpler transportation.    Read more

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    1Matosinhos sidewalks are rough on the suitcaseAnd a train runs through itOld buildings, some tiled, some falling apart1Iron features2Sea weather4I pointed at the menu and scored. The potatoes are "Russian salad"

    Matosinhos

    September 19, 2024 in Portugal ⛅ 72 °F

    Flat, thank goodness. Seagull sounds mix with playground sounds. No one told these kids there’s major challenges, or at least they are more able than me to let go and play and scream in delight. Hmmmm.

    Porto streets, or maybe tripping on the 1/4 step into the bathroom has messed up my knee. I’m staying in a 3 story pensao residence. The rooms are 12 ft tall. So the stairs…. Another thank goodness is the office assistant/ cleaning staff/ granddaughter offered to carry my suitcase up. Si. Por favor, as I take the stairs sideways babying that knee. I can manage rest and elevation, but the closest I came to ice was a lemon and mango gelado.

    The language difference— somehow we find a way. People are kind and mostly patient. I spent 30 minutes at a post office sending back some overpacking (grff) while the line queued. The postman was wonderful. We laughed when I finally understood that he wanted my email address (electronico) not my mailing address. The people in line looked unhappy and yes I think that was my fault. But too bad.

    Tomorrow’s agenda is to start walking. 12 miles. We’ll see. Maybe I can find more things about which to laugh and scream in delight.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    They build ramps into the sidewalks so cars can drive up and park half on sidewalk
    They build ramps into the sidewalks so cars can drive up and park half on sidewalkFound this while wandering. Simple outside1Total art on the insideIs that a dead body under the statues?Yay! My first Camino sign.1Atlantic Ocean from the other sideLighthouse on the Black Coast, so named because of so many shipwrecks1Rocks and wavesOnly a little bit to goPampas grassGiant reedMassive petrol plantIt's lonely1Roman salt tanks to preserve fishPilgrim menu part 1 - cabbage soup and plain rollPilgrim menu part 2. Thank goodness for greens.

    Matasinhos to Vila do Conde

    September 20, 2024 in Portugal ⛅ 61 °F

    Rainy start to the day but I started even later and happened to miss it. I managed to get my suitcase down the stairs thanks to arnica rub and KT tape.
    I wandered a bit trying to find my way to the Camino but my 2 different map apps weren’t synching. I tell ya, the streets here are crazy curvy with no discernible pattern. And they stop for pedestrians!
    I stumbled on this plain looking Cathedral, but inside was total art. Plus a covered dead body. I think. Check the pictures.
    I did finally find a Camino marker. Whoot. Jump for joy. Well raise the arms, remember the knee.
    Soon it was wooden boardwalks for hours. Pretty… nice… ok… enough already.
    I made very slow progress and stopped a bunch. They had benches quite often. Cafes were over priced. I knew I had to get a cab at some point, so after 6 hours, I bargained with myself. Make it to the Roman salt tanks or walk until 4 pm, whichever comes first. Salt tanks won.
    Bolt is the local version of Uber. Easy peasy. Although it took the driver 30-40 minutes to get me to my hotel. I never would have made it.
    Anyway, safe and sound and ready for sleep.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    2Roman aqueduct
    2Roman aqueductChurch of San Pedro de Rates. Built in Romanesque style atop older sacred sitesCourtyard behind San Pedro churchPoke berries1Yay, softer roads. Yellow arrow on left marks the way.Ahhh. EucalyptusBlessings and offering by pilgrims. I placed a few in the foregroundThe famous Barcelos cockGrape arborGoogle says these are quince2Aw not more cobblestones!1It was beautifulLemon treeReminds me of hiking Dismal Swamp in Chesapeake, the path is overgrownThe first thing you see in every town, a church1Stone walls marked every boundaryOld buildingsBelladonnaKiwiIf I started at 258k then I've traveled 1/5 of the way. Really?

    Vila do Conde to Barcelos

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal ☁️ 63 °F

    Foggy start. Sooo glad my travel planner taxied me to San Pedro de Rates because traversing that highway in this soup would have been treacherous. At least the fires seem to be managed.

    Sun came out by 10:30 and it was a lovely day meandering through farmland, small villages, walled roads. My love/hate, mostly hate, relationship with cobblestones was severely tested. I found my mantra, “may I be blessed on cobblestones”. It works for walking. And the courteous drivers of the cities were replaced by Grand Prix drivers taking blind curves at top speeds. More than once I pressed against a moss-covered wall to continue to be 3 dimensional. I guess for those villagers, the only good pilgrim is a flat pilgrim.

    Its corn harvest season here. I watched one family at work. Teenage daughter yanked ears off stalks and heaved them into the already mowed (?) area. Tweeny son acted petulantly instead of picking up ears. Papa ran the stalk mulcher. Uncle drove the truck to wherever corn stalk mulch goes, a good bit blowing on to the side of the dirt road.
    Smells of fermenting corn stalk mulch, manure fertilizer being added to overturned earth, one pungent dairy farm. And the oh so lovely eucalyptus groves and pine trees.
    Sounds of pigeons, doves, farm equipment, roofing tiles being hammered, cars roaring over cobblestones, and pubs with soccer games on the tube.

    For my inner journey, I felt that what I needed came to me. A cafe for a pit stop, a trash receptacle, a quiet place to pee, a stone to rest on, a restaurant with friendly people who spoke English, a perfect place to wait for a taxi. I used to think that I couldn’t get what I wanted but maybe that’s not true. Tuning inward, the wants are simpler.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    2Painted tile spoke to me of spiritual healing
    2Painted tile spoke to me of spiritual healingInside the Bom Jesus church1Altar detail1Gardens with the Barcelos cockerel114th century bridge2Barcelinhos on the other side1Rowing upstrean without a paddle, just a pole1Center for antiquities I think. Old and modern in the background1Detail of rosette3Check out the sacred symbols around the door1111Anachronism1Honoring the volunteer firefighters2I ordered a puzza primavera. Not what I expected1Dogs will be dogs.11

    Rest day in Barcelos

    September 22, 2024 in Portugal 🌙 64 °F

    Boy I needed the rest. I don’t think I was as physically ready as I thought I was. But then I didn’t really know what to expect even after watching a zillion You Tubes. I’m not going to focus on pain so I won’t mention that. Just happy to have advil.

    I slept in, got breakfast, went back to bed. There’s a Middle Ages fair going on across the way. Biggest Ren Faire I’ve ever seen. I ventured out to find some recommended sites, try some local food, not just pilgrim meals— typically cabbage soup, a plate with some meat and 2 starches and a little lettuce and tomato salad. So with the fair, lots of places were open today, Sunday.

    One of the churches had a sign about today being Pax day (I think). So I’m imagining all my prayers for peace, written on my insoles, spoken through my lips and felt in my heart, being magnified by prayers all over the world. Yes! Yesterday while I was waiting for a taxi, a white dove lighted on the light pole across the street, just long enough for me to notice. Its a sign, I say.

    The inner journey— honor my timing and my limitations. My body knows better than my thoughts and ambitions.    Read more

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    Gardens near Barcelos town center
    Gardens near Barcelos town centerOk, weird statue art is everywhereInside the Sisters of the Rosary church. Amazing tile artSisters of the Rosary painted boards covered the ceilingAn altar thing?On the outskirts of town, there were dozens of candles below this tile. I'll take good luck too!

    Barcelos Day 2

    September 23, 2024 in Portugal ⛅ 63 °F

    I was going to take a side trip to Braga today, but no. Especially babying the knee. I did laundry, bought some Voltaren at the Farmacia and some snacks for tomorrow’s trek. Wandered around, took some pics. Broke down in tears, fought back a panic attack, mailed a couple post cards and sat in companionable silence with a woman and her dog. She asked if I was cold, I pointed to my sweatshirt tied around my waist. We both sighed and yawned, marveling at the beauty of the day, unable to speak more than the simplest words, yet connected to some kind of magnificence.

    Inner journey: I can make myself nuts over doing the simplest new thing. I can spend an inordinate amount of energy circling around what ifs. And then I can find my heart and breath and all is well again. It takes a little time and a lot of intention, and pretty flowers and a scruffy dog help too.    Read more

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    Grape arbor at the casa Quinta da Cancela where I'm staying
    Grape arbor at the casa Quinta da Cancela where I'm stayingAt the fancy Leonchic quest house where I started walkingRainy viewPyramids??Last Hydrangea1My rain gear didn't keep me dryCork harvested from the treesCuteThe thermometer seems to be workingVineyardCamino sign and grape arborsWild calla lilyThe camino de SantiagoUgh. Wet feet.Here's where the corn goes.Sweet chestnutGrapes and cornBiggest lemons I've ever seen

    Barcelos to Balugaes

    September 24, 2024 in Portugal ☁️ 64 °F

    Rain all day, sigh. I rented a donkey named Uber from Barcelos to somewhere along the route. I had him drop me off in front of a fancy guest house. I first ordered a horse named Bolt, and I stepped out from under the awning, waving, but he was looking the other way and canceled the ride, so I ordered Uber instead. It was cheaper anyway.
    I’ve moved away from predominantly corn country into wine territory. The earth is darker, whatever that means chemically. The path was mostly farm roads, cobbled of course. I finally found a place to stop, but it was the only cafe for miles and all the locals came in for lunch. I tossed my dripping poncho and pack in the corner and squeezed into a chair by the door and only ordered a pastel de nata, Portugal’s favorite custard cup. Mine too to be honest.

    My hotel was only a couple miles further if you follow the roads. The rock strewn way really challenged me and I limped the last 1/2 mile. Happily my suitcase got there before me even though it was before 2:00. I got out of my soaking clothes, took some advil, slathered on the Voltaren and fell asleep under a heavy blanket.

    Inner journey: I’ve had several dreams about people at my old job. Not naming names, I realize I have some forgiveness work to do. Maybe it’s working out just with the dreams. Maybe I have to put some intention behind it. Maybe at the next chapel. 💒.    Read more

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    1Chocolate crepe with a heap of whipped cream and fruit. Yummy
    1Chocolate crepe with a heap of whipped cream and fruit. YummyPonte de Lima hospital entranceThe Pilgim meal, grilled smashed pork chop with potatoes,cabbage of course, and, yay, zucchiniThe church right outside my window gongs every half hourAltar detail. Is someone missing?Hanging laundry on a line in the shower

    Balugaes to Ponte de Lima

    September 25, 2024 in Portugal 🌧 68 °F

    Umm, there was no walking today. I woke up barely able to walk to the bathroom. And besides, moderate to heavy rain, with a chance of floods, was forecast.

    I decided to reach out to the itinerary planner, Portugal Green Walks(PGW), for a clinic suggestion. They advised a particular hospital in Ponte de Lima. Tears streaming, I ordered an Uber to fetch me from the hotel and take me to the hospital. He spoke decent English and was hopeful that I’d have good results. I accept!

    The results were good. Nothing bad on the x-rays, and an Rx for pain killers and stronger anti inflammatory. 2 every 6 hours if needed. And doc said my planned rest day in Ponte de Lima, tomorrow, was well timed and I could continue on the Camino as long as I could tolerate the pain. And, I had to cover the full cost of the visit, 70euro. Why the heck are American medical charges so high?!?

    PGW was tracking me on WhatsApp and picked me up at the hospital to take me to the hotel and had arranged an early check in and had gotten my suitcase there ahead of me. Big hugs to Ines from PGW. There was a Farmacia a couple doors away and just across the street, a warm pilgrim lunch, with salad AND vegetables including zucchini.

    And I had been such a brave girl that I deserved a lovely chocolate crepe for dessert.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    The bridge, "Ponte" first built by Romans, extended and repaired in middle ages
    The bridge, "Ponte" first built by Romans, extended and repaired in middle agesAnother view of the bridgeI stayed hereMixed salad with tina and egg for lunch. Tomato plus tuna, so goodChapel of Sao JoaoThe Camino goes through the archway here at the edge of townAnother church2The avenue of trees.Common street viewThis is a busy roadNot sure, but I liked the turretPanoramaRosette on the church next doorIn a museum. This looks like the Musketeers costume"Armour". Foget about survival.Loved the gardensDona Teresa granted this land to someone important 😉Roof tops and raincloudsThis pharmacy is run by... Doctor Who?

    Ponte de Lima rest day

    September 26, 2024 in Portugal ⛅ 61 °F

    Meds are helping. I still take stairs down sideways, but I managed walking up hills and on slippery sidewalks today.

    Ponte de Lima is a lovely town, when its not raining. Named for the bridge over the river Lima, this is the oldest town in Portugal. There’s been a lot of military encampments here over the centuries, from Romans on. Streets are, of course, narrow, windy, and mostly cobbled. Houses butt up against each other, some in grave disrepair. Everything seems to be built of stone and the classic churches go way, way back. I marvel at how old things are, how little they’ve changed, how traditions extend for many generations.
    This is grape harvest season and all family hands are called on to get the grapes down on dry days or the wine will be ruined. So yesterday’s heavy rains pushed off the work, hoping for tomorrow.

    Inner journey: I sat in the church next door that chimes every half hour between 8h and 21h. I said I choose to forgive … and I ran through every name I could think of that fits from my old job. Then I brushed my hands off several times and felt done. DONE. Then I looked at the two compassionate-looking statues and asked, “ok, help me know what’s next”. Still listening.
    I have been asking my knee what it wants me to know and what I get so far is that it is giving me a reason to have an easy-ish Camino. I have a reason to stop after 10-12 K whenever there’s a cafe or landmark on a road and call for a ride. Tomorrow has a rough mountain climb that I will not do. But there’s a cafe next to our lady of something or other chapel where I can end my walk, just before the mountain climb, on account of my knee. Thanks!!!    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    One last look back over the bridge to Ponte de LimaPilgrim fareScary narrow ledgeOne of rhe sheep had a lame leg. I told him to enjoy every dayGourd hanging with an orange treeI added more of my friends' prayer ribbons.

    Ponte de Lima to Cossourada

    September 27, 2024 in Portugal 🌙 52 °F

    It was incredibly beautiful today and I stopped a lot to just soak in the landscape. The day started with a full rainbow so I knew it was going to be awesome.
    I’m quite tired, so I’ll just share some photos.

    Thanks so much for all the encouragement from everyone. It makes a big difference.    Read more

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    Ancient Roman roads, big rutted rocks
    Ancient Roman roads, big rutted rocksMy target in the distanceFrom cafe stop in amThis is a mailbox!Impressive purple bushThanks for visitingAlong the way2River rocks. Loose, scary.Lunch. Caprese salad with pesto.Pilgrims dinner Roast 1/2 chicken etc1View ti Spain from my roomThis must be looking west.

    Cossourada to Valenca

    September 28, 2024 in Portugal ☀️ 50 °F

    Another beautiful day. They all said today would be easy, only 12 k ish. There were steep ascents and steeper descents, over cobblestone, Roman road boulders, loose river rocks, and dirt trails. I slowed way down on the rough and steep places. After the morning rush passed me by, it felt like I was alone for hours.
    Valenca is a big city. It took another hour or two after passing the “Welcome” sign to find my way to the classic fortress, the original city, with buskers and street vendors and my goodness crowds! And at the northern tip, my hotel. I see Spain from my window.

    I’m just gonna say, 12 k ish ain’t easy for me.

    After a recovery nap, I decided I should get some protein to eat since the piece of processed ham lunchmeat for breakfast was all I ‘d had, but I couldn’t get the chain off the door. I tried different angles, different direction of force. I wondered if I could use my scissors as a phillips head screwdriver. I finally called the front desk. She came up, reached her skinny wrist inside the door and also couldn’t budge it. She went to another room to try it there, then she came back, reached her skinny wrist in, pressed the button at the top with her index finger and easily pulled up the chain with her other fingers. Glad the chain is so protective 🫤. Glad I got rescued.

    Inner journey: thinking about what makes me nervous- loose and pointy rocks, going down steep hills, heights, social situations, applying for a job, starting over, doing something new. Antidote- focus and taking it slow, seems to apply.

    In the middle of the night, when the temperature is not right, the bladder talks, and my travel CPAP is blowing all over my face, and every …thing ….aches, I don’t want to do this anymore.
    My intentions: walk for peace - acknowledged by the white dove. Build confidence and courage – that happened just in getting myself here. What’s next – I feel so in love with nature while I’m here and I’ve dreamt about gardening again. And a pilgrim yesterday suggested I look into doing IT for organizations that do human service of some kind. I don’t know about that. I don’t know if I want to go back into that kind of work. I feel like I would like to support local parks and walkways, that the gift of having a pleasant walk is perhaps bigger than we can imagine.

    So am I done? I stay in Valenca tonight, which is the last town in Portugal. I will probably cross the river Minho into Spain tomorrow just for kicks since its a rest day. My hotels are booked so if I leave, I probably lose.
    I get that I cannot do the 20k and 24k walks scheduled since 12 seems to be my absolute limit even beyond my limit if the path is rough. I will research options.    Read more

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    Shot by my Spanish photographers
    Shot by my Spanish photographersThe view from the restaurant AFTER the clouds rolled in and we lost the sharp shadowsTui cathedral across the border riverThe fortress bulwarkI can see a moat down thereUpkeep is a bitchI can hear soldiers gathering for morning roll callThe blue house, Casa AzulHand towels for saleSao Pedro, saint PeterI loved this angelic statueSaint Teotonio, the first saint of PortugalInside a church inside the fortressClose up, same church. The marble appears painted as the pattern is same on all the marble partsStreet view inside the fortressBlessings ribbons etc."Please don't touch our cat"

    Valenca Rest Day

    September 29, 2024 in Portugal ☁️ 64 °F

    At breakfast, the valley was covered in fog and gradually bits cleared, whisps meandered by the bulwark outside the window. Mountains appeared, then towns, then fields, then the river Miño. The early sun sent long shadows from the yew trees. The beauty I’m seeing touches me.

    Here at the top of the Valencan hill is a large earthen fortress. It encases the old city which is bustling with stores and restaurants and a few places to stay. My hotel at the north end is almost the highest place. Apparently bus loads of tourists from Spain and Portugal shop for deals here, mostly textiles. Towels, sheets, aprons, couch covers. Up scale clothing. I guess its the Outlet Mall of the old world.

    Two ladies were about to take a picture, with the Tui, Spain, cathedral in the background. I didn’t know what they were saying, but you know the gestures. I, speaking in English of course, augmented my words by pointing at myself, their phone, and the both of them. Universal language. They gestured and said something and I had a picture of me. I said “obrigada,” Portuguese for Thank You. And they said “gracias”.

    Inner Journey: walking is off the table, and that feels so good. I sat down with my itinerary and looked for very short walks that put me at a cafe where hopefully, a taxi or Uber can find me. On the road to Armentaria, its all up hill. Big hill. Oh heck no! That will be a ride from start to finish. So I’ve got my journey roughly planned for greater ease for the next week.

    Its like life, you have plans and dreams and something happens and you adjust. Its just life and its ok. No regrets, no disappointments, no excuses.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    3Crossing into Spain
    3Crossing into SpainTui cathedral high upThere's not enuf room for cars with the mountain sticking out from the sides of the cathedral118k to SantiagoOutside of Tui CathedralInside of Tui cathedral was amazing. If you go, pay for the tour.One view of the pipe organ1From under the pipe organA sainted pilgrimMore saints in woodA sarcophagusThe cloisters. Sr Lucia of Fatima fame was a sister hereThe cloister garden3LunchHelado dessert

    Valenca to Tui

    September 30, 2024 in Portugal ☁️ 68 °F

    I crossed into Spain today, yay! I felt my Dad strongly while I traversed the Minho river. Tui is a border town and on high hills above the river. They got themselves some steep hills! The Cathedral, highest building, is crazy ornate, blending a number of architectural styles and having add-ons over the years. The stones of the hill upon which it was built were not cut away for car-sized roads. So round about and back again, the streets are as crazy and pedestrian-only as the streets in Portuguese cities.

    But you know the best part? Sidewalks are NOT freaking cobblestones.

    PGW, my itinerary company, had arranged for a taxi to pick me up in O Porrino, another 16 k up the road, and take me back to the available hotel in Valenca. Nope, happy with my day in Tui. Went to churches, mailed some postcards, and had a nice lunch. I called the Taxi company and they were ok with picking me up in Tui and carting me back across the bridge.

    I met a couple of ladies from Nova Scotia who were trying to figure out Uber. They were also being kind to their knees and getting a car from Valenca to O Porrino. I wonder if I’ll see them tomorrow when my taxi picks me up here in Valenca and delivers me to O Porrino. The one lady had lived in Virginia Beach in the 60’s when she was little. We supported each other in choosing Uber to ease the Camino. Does that make it the uber-way?

    Inner journey: tuning into my body to try to understand what it needs to have less pain. I let the ideas pop up and I take action. Lots of stretching this morning while I waited and waited for my phone to charge. KT tape around and over the knee. The one pair I brought of compression running sox. Walking with poles and the barest minimum on my back. And I stopped at the farmacia and got paracetamol.

    It was a good day.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Pano of the landscape
    Pano of the landscape1View from my hotel this morningArrival in O Porrino, camino pilgrims welcomedLess than 100 k to go and I have to get 2 stamps per day on my Pilgrim Credential2Collecting stamps on my Pilgrim's CredentialDo you see the 2 scarecrows?2Saint Ann, mother of Mary21st century baby sitterVending machine and Taxi infoDroopy large Evening PrimroseWild fennel along the road. I rubbed my fingers in it, yummy smell1I can keep up with this pilgrim

    O Porrino to Redondela

    October 1, 2024 in Spain 🌫 68 °F

    Taxi ride from Valenca hotel into a crowd of pilgrims starting their day in O Porrino, ponchos flapping, noses dripping, puddles splashing. I planned to go as far as Mos, before the climb up a big hill, and before I hit my limit. I found a shelter that had a vending machine and 2 plastic chairs somewhere in Mos. Yes.
    I tried Uber, no service. I tried Bolt, no service. So I had a snack and thought what to do. I checked Google maps for upcoming land marks and then I saw the sign for Dave’s Mos Taxi. I called and he said he could get me in 40 minutes. That’s fine.
    So Dave transported me to near my stay, I got out in the middle of a traffic circle, followed his pointing arm, missed it, opened an app and found it.
    So nice to have a warm shower, a cup of tea, dry clothes, and a clean bed. And apps and maps and an International calling add-on.

    Inner Journey: today was about accepting what is and then accepting the gifts that appear. The weather wasn’t “nasty”, it was raining. At home I would say no way to going to the store in this, and today I ‘m walking miles in it. And lo and behold, those windows open when the doors close. (Taxi number) And a cafe appears when I need umph, a rest and a pee, even if they don’t have paper. I can live, no, thrive with that.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Pretty along The Way. Those stone posts are everywhere.
    Pretty along The Way. Those stone posts are everywhere.In RedondelaCity streets in the rainTrain bridgeTell Indiana Jones I found the Ark. it's actually a Galician granaryGiant something. Google couldn't find it1A reminder to me!A comfortable place to stop and have a picnic.What would you choose? Since Im the tortoise this time around, I chose flatter.People are from all over.Roadside altarIt's October. I guess its time to start the season. 😕Almondy torte de SantiagoPassion flowerHome away from home

    Redondela to Arcade

    October 2, 2024 in Spain 🌫 64 °F

    Rainy, squishy shoes. Poncho doesn’t keep any part of me dry. In Redondela, someone tossed out some liquid from an upper apartment which startled the pigeons and me. I decided to walk close to the building in case, you know, the old practice of emptying the chamber pot by throwing the stuff out the window was still alive.

    I ran into the same group of women I’ve been seeing since leaving Ponte de Lima. They are walking “for freedom” raising money to fight trafficking of women and girls around the world. They picked up more walkers in Tui and are now 40 strong. They know my name and probably recognize my slow pace and pale blue hat and one of them calls out for me. One said I’m an inspiration and I accept! I can own that.
    I crossed a highway at a pedestrian light while a group of them jaywalked. They called to me to make sure I wasn’t going in the wrong direction. Sweet. But I was stopping at the Cafe San Simon, and just in time as a squall hit. 30-40 minutes to enjoy a hot tea and a Torte de Santiago. Out of that storm.
    There were some climbs. A good bit of Asphalt, some sandy semi rocky paths. Rivulets claiming the path. Some scary sliding parts. Glad for the trekking poles.

    I got to my target, the pick up spot for the rural casa I’m staying at. I ordered and ate lunch then DM’d the place to say come get me or send a car, its part of what I paid for. No response, I called. No response. I sent a regular message no response. After an hour wait, chilling and starting to shiver, they finally called back and arrived 20 minutes later. Then my room wasn’t ready so I got a cup of tea. Finally, I was able to get to the room and get a nice hot shower. Then I gave them almost all of my clothes to launder as sink washing doesn’t get out the developing funk. Even my sweatshirt needed it. So no pj’s tonite, I’ll wear the remaining hiking shirt that didn’t stink too bad. Using the hair dryer over and over again on my shoes and insoles. Hopefully the laundering wont shrink anything. Those pastry stops …

    Inner journey: I wasn’t feeling safe going down those steep sandy trails. I haven’t really felt safe in life. I started some affirmations of “I AM safe in my body”…”I AM safe on Earth” … “I AM safe”. I know that safety is supported by discernment and thoughtful choices, like where to put the foot next, what street to walk down. I found myself yelling “I am safe!” after checking that no one was around, because you know, it wouldn’t be safe if someone thought I was weird. Then I found myself asserting out loud that I release all that keeps me feeling unsafe, cause, core, memory, past life, reflection, faulty thoughts, stuck emotions, for all times and dimensions and whatever else. Blowing that out hard and sure several times. Whew!
    Then I had to wait too long and too wet for a ride, a test! I was able to heat up my core and reaffirm, “I AM SAFE.”    Read more