Sonne, Strand und mehr

Wir sind jetzt schon drei Tage hier und machen ganz entspanntes Camping. Das Wetter ist hervorragend, manchmal bisschen viel Wind, aber immer sonnig und angenehm warm.
Am Freitag sind wir den StrandRead more
Wir sind jetzt schon drei Tage hier und machen ganz entspanntes Camping. Das Wetter ist hervorragend, manchmal bisschen viel Wind, aber immer sonnig und angenehm warm.
Am Freitag sind wir den Strand entlang gegangen, erst Richtung Marbella, dort liegt hinter dem Strand ein Dünengebiet, in dem sich nackte Menschen rumtreiben, meist Männer, die dort auch nackig am Strand rumlaufen. Wir sind dann noch ein Stück in die andere Richtung gegangen. Zwischen den beiden Stränden gibt es einen kleinen Yachthafen und einige Bars und Restaurants. Wir hatten auch ein leckeres Getränk in einer Strandbar.
Am Samstag waren wir zuerst Einkaufen. Der Weg zu Lidl war etwas lang und umständlich, wäre mit Fahrrad noch schwieriger, aber okay, wir haben ja Zeit. Auf dem Rückweg haben wir uns noch einen kleinen Sonnenschirm und zwei Strandmatten gekauft. Den Nachmittag haben wir nämlich am Strand verbracht. Es war ziemlich voll, im Gegensatz zu Freitag, nicht nur Touris, sondern auch viele Spanier. Die Strandparkplätze und die umliegenden Straßen waren restlos zugeparkt. Aber der Strand ist groß genug, wir konnten entspannt liegen und hatten bisschen was zu sehen in unserer Umgebung. Im Wasser planschen waren wir auch, aber nur im flachen, Schwimmen ging nicht, die Wellen waren zu hoch. Abends gab es leckere Grillspieße und Salat.
Am Sonntag sind wir zum einer kleinen Wanderung gestartet. Es ging ins Hinterland, bergauf, anfangs an Straßen entlang durch Siedlungen, später durchs Gelände. Ziel war eigentlich ein Aussichtspunkt mit einer kleinen Kapelle. Leider war irgendwann der Weg völlig zugewuchert mit Brennnesseln und Diesteln, so dass wir umgekehrt sind. Jetzt chillen wir auf dem Campingplatz, später wollen wir noch kniffeln und kochen.Read more
We were lucky with conversations this morning. A man who was out early cleaning the streets saw our hiking gear and chatted with us for several minutes about the state of the trails, how much water there was in the rivers, how many days a week he worked, and all the other questions we could think of to ask him. Next we noticed a gathering just outside the village with women cooking refreshments and setting up tables. One of them turned and called out to us. We were surprised that anybody would notice us, and then all of a sudden, we realized it was the friendly woman from the museum yesterday who had given us so much background about the village. She told us they were getting ready for a celebration that included a 20 km horseback ride with all the horses decked out in their best finery.
They certainly had a great day for the fiesta. A few clouds in the sky gave welcome shade, but yesterday‘s rain was gone. We made our way up the GR 243 between Tolox and Guaro following the plentiful GR markings. When we were up high enough to see both Yunquera and Alozaina, we stopped for a snack break and then took a rough dirt track back to Tolox.
Every day that we have a successful walk like this, we marvel that we can come to a village that we knew nothing about a year ago, and thanks to the Wikiloc app, we can find interesting tracks to walk in a different direction every day. By using the filters in Wikiloc’s search function, we can find local tracks of a certain length or a certain elevation gain, and we can even sort tracks by how recently they were uploaded They all have copious notes from local walkers, pointing out things to see and spots that might be tricky. It really is amazing to be able to find such obscure trails and follow them so easily.
www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tolox-gr-243-loop…Read more
It would be more accurate to call it a business day because we had some paperwork we needed to complete for my wrist accident. Ned found a helpful papelería where we could print up the necessary forms.
We had enough time left over to visit the local museum. It has a personalized collection of items donated by local families. The trillo (thresher) was particularly interesting because, unlike the one that formed our table base in Marbella, it did not use embedded sharp stones for the cutting edges. Instead, it had iron bars that were notched into the toboggan-like wooden sled. Old photos show local farmers sitting on these while a mule pulled the sled around and around on a stone threshing floor (an era) to separate the wheat from the chaff.
The lady in charge of the museum explained everything, particularly emphasizing how hard life was all through the 1900s in villages like this. All the water used in a house had to be hauled up from the river in jugs that were stored in specially designed holders, los cantareras, in the kitchen.
She pointed out a photo of the central plaza taken in 1900 (125 years ago!) showing a water channel that ran through town. It was opened from time to time and in the summertime, children delighted in splashing in it.Read more
Just as we left the village on a Sendero Local, the SL-A 238, Sendero Virgen de las Nieves, we saw a sign indicating that the route was closed at some point ahead. We hoped that meant closed for vehicles but passable for walkers, and as it turned out, that was the case. We worked our way up the lush green Río de los Horcajos valley, passing so many interesting things in the first kilometers that we could hardly make any progress.
Tolox is located between two rivers. The villagers made use of the water power available, and in the 1900s there were 14 mills that operated along the rivers: 7 olive oil mills and 7 flour mills. We saw the remains of two of these, quite an exciting find, with their aqueducts and arched openings to let the water in and allow the excess to flow out. In addition, the valley presented us with medieval bridges, dry stone walls for terracing, orchards and grapevines, and balsas to collect water for use in the huertas (vegetable gardens).
When we came upon the actual spot where the lane was cut, it was quite clear that it was going to be a long time before the vehicles trapped on the far side of the collapsed roadway were going to be able to make their way into town. This was certainly damage from the 21 days of March storms. We could also see that at other points, the roadway had been underwater at some recent time. There were huge clumps of accumulated sand, rocks, and reeds strewn around.
It made us wonder how the romería is going to get up to the shrine next month. Each May, the villagers carry a statue of the Virgen de las Nieves from the village up to the shrine itself. There are lots of picnic tables and a refreshment kiosk to accommodate the gathering. This year, I think the supplies will have to come up the old-fashioned way, by horse or mule.
www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tolox-sendero-vir…Read more
Traveler Wow - that valley looks like a lost paradise 🥰. You would certainly be one of few who will see this area Elaine. 🥰👣🚶♂️🚶🏻♀️🙏♥️
When I was planning this trip at home last winter, I ran across an article online saying that the Diputación de Malaga was establishing two new trails in Tolox, one highlighting the rocks of the area and the other the plants. The news article didn’t tell where the trails started, and there weren’t any helpful tracks on Wikiloc yet, so one of my main goals this morning was to get back by 2 PM from whatever walk we took in order to get to the information center before it closed and ask them about the trailhead locations.
We started out by exploring the area around the spa, marveling at the old buildings and the tall eucalyptus trees. As we worked our way up Cerro de Hijar, we came around a corner and there right in front of us was a big sign announcing Sendero Geológico. Even better, Sendero Botánico was right across the lane!
The Sendero Geológico was quite informative. It turns out that the Río Horcajos area in Tolox is the site of an eruption of peridotitic rocks of colossal size, the largest of this class of rocks known in the world . The outdoor display has boulder-size chunks of 14 different types of rocks prevalent in this area plus an explanatory timeline and map. We came away feeling like we could at least identify the peridotitic rocks with their greenish shadings.
The Sendero Botánico identifies 28 plants, some of them endemic to this area, in its kilometer-long loop. Parts of the trail are rocky and steep, meaning I was concentrating more on where I was putting my feet than on the plant names. I did learn that the bees love matagallo.
www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tolox-balneario-s…Read more
Traveler This area looks & sounds really interesting - especially for those with strong interest in geology. (I know someone who is just starting on this journey of keen interest in rocks and why - I will screen shot your post to him if that’s ok with you Elaine ?).
Traveler Yes , indeed. Or you can just send him the link to this FP journal. It’s public. More info here: https://academiamalaguenaciencias.wordpress.com…
The big quandary of this part of the trip has been the condition of the long distance trails. The GR 249, the Gran Senda de Malaga, has its own website with trail updates on it. Several stages nearby are closed right now because of trail damages.
The GR 243, the Gran Senda de la Sierra de las Nieves, the GR we are on now, does not have any up-to-date information online. Reports from people who have walked Wikiloc tracks in this area within the last two weeks are available though, and they are mixed. One for the area between Guaro and Tolox reports that two large trees have fallen across a sheer section of the trail and made it impassable. These sorts of damages don’t matter so much for our daywalks, because if we come to a part that is blocked, we can just turn around and go back; but when we are changing our location from village A to village B, if the trail is blocked shortly before the final destination, it would be too late in the day to turn around and try to get to village B by some other means. So when the caretaker of our house in Guaro offered to drive us to Tolox, we decided that was the prudent thing to do. I’m sad about missing the continuity of walking from village to village, but we just had two solid weeks of being able to walk every day, so there really isn’t anything to complain about.
Tolox has a magnificent setting. It is hidden from almost every direction, but then you come around a corner and there it is, tucked into a valley between the mountains and the river. School was just letting out when we arrived so we sat on a bench for a while and watched all the happy reunions of mothers and fathers and children. Our house is at the top of the village, quite a climb up from the river. Luckily, there are brightly colored benches all the way up offering a chance to catch your breath.
We had time this morning to do another of the national park village walks before we left Guaro:
www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/guaro-around-the…Read more
Traveler Lots of hugs and kisses! One little boy had a costume on complete with a crown. He was so happy to have his mom see him all dressed up! The policeman directing the traffic looked like he was a regular participant in the after school scene, waving at parents he knew and giving a thumbs up to kids.
In the middle of Guaro, there is a fountain that was established by the village in the 1950s because the existing fountain wasn’t sufficient to serve the large number of mule teams working in the fields around here. Each evening the drinking troughs on both sides served tired and thirsty livestock. This fountain was specifically reserved for use by animals; no washing clothes or filling jugs for household water here.
Today our wandering track through orchards and huertas (gardens) made us think about the changes in farm vehicles that have come to this area. We didn’t see any working animals, but we saw plenty of chugging carts carrying workers and supplies to and from jobs in the countryside.
This track down to the river (a different river than yesterday, but with the same name - very confusing) is gentle and even has several level stretches, making today’s walk much easier than the others we have done from Guaro. The icing on the cake was a distant view of snow- capped Mulhacén, the highest peak in mainland Spain. It brought back happy memories of climbing almost to the top in 2018.
Tomorrow we’ll be moving on to Tolox, the next village north on the GR 243.
www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/guaro-south-to-ri…Read more
Today’s walk in 10 words: way down; way up; way down; way up; all beautiful!
Our loop trail started out by dropping steeply down to the Rio Seco, so we could see from quite high up that the river wasn’t going to live up to its name. It was definitely not “seco” (dry). We hoped the ford would be dry like yesterday‘s, but as we approached it, we could clearly hear and then see that there was a lot of water running over it. After some back-and-forth about whether the current was too strong, Ned took my poles for a trial run near the top of the ford. He thought it would be safe for me to cross as long as I kept my feet pointed into the current to minimize drag, We crossed together, so I could hang onto him!
On the other side, we climbed up to a remote area with clear views of Torrecilla. Another steep downhill brought us to our second river crossing. A great sense of relief washed over me when I saw that there was a nice sturdy bridge high above the river.
All along the route today we saw signs of the damage caused by the month-long rains. At the first river crossing, which was about 10 feet wide, the sand carried up by the high water indicated that the crossing would have been underwater for a width of about 30 feet two weeks ago. After the second bridge, the track itself had been undercut and had gaping holes at the edge. There were many spots where rocks had come cascading down as the cliffsides broke away under the torrents of rain. We’re guessing it will take a long time to repair everything.
www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/guaro-arroyo-seco…Read more
We didn’t see any almond blossoms on the Almond Blossom Circuit today (they bloom in January-February), but we did get a 360° view of the mountains that surround Guaro, and we got to hear the debut performance of the Opera of the Dogs (see video😁).
We haven’t seen other walkers out on the trail so far this trip, but today we met two women from Yunquera, a village north of here that we will be staying in two weeks from now, They were enthusiastic about trading photos, and were able to give us the names of the villages we were looking at from the magnificent high point of this route.
There are plenty of trails around Guaro, enough to keep us busy for the four days we are spending here. The route we took today is the medium blue one on the Gaia master map in today’s photos.
www.wikiloc.com/walking-trails/guaro-almond-blo…Read more
Traveler That was a fabulous performance from the dogs. I wonder what got them all going like that.
Traveler I’m so glad you liked it! It started with one lone dog hearing us walking by far above their valley. He started barking. Another dog heard him and chimed in, and then another, and pretty soon the whole valley was filled with dog song. It was quite incredible. I wish we could’ve captured it from the very beginning, but of course, we didn’t realize that more than one dog would bark.
We love Guaro and our compact little house here! Guaro is only a short distance away from Monda, but it seems like a totally different world. The street plan is like a maze. I don’t think anything meets at right angles, very typical of a village established during Muslim times. In fact, I think our house is on what would be called an adarve - a narrow dead end lane characteristic of traditional Muslim urbanism (not the castle walkway type of adarve). It allows access to the houses in the center of a block, buildings that would otherwise not have any street access. (Think of trying to access the hole in the center of a donut. ) I read about this term last year when I was translating a book about villages in the Sierra Nevada area, but this is the first time that I’ve ever seen one. Our adarve is unusual in that it dead ends in the center of the block with a set of stairs leading to the innermost house. The lane is so narrow that when we left our door shutters open at lunchtime, we could hear the conversation from the house across the street where their door shutters were also open while they were having lunch. It’s quite a nice, cozy situation and encourages neighborliness. When we headed out to the market, our neighbor was doing the same and welcomed us to the street.
The GR 243 connects Monda and Guaro, so we had originally planned to walk here, but ended up taking the bus because of river crossings that are still too high. We are hoping to be able to walk that route later in the week. Today we explored the town on a route that highlights the medieval character of Guaro. I thought that I recorded our route on Wikiloc as usual, but when we got back, I realized I must have pressed “explore” rather than “record”. But you can see the route on the National Park website below.
www.sierranieves.com/descargas/callejeros/calle…Read more
Traveler Keine FKK Fotos 😭
Traveler Ey, ich bin doch kein Spanner...