Spain Madrid

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  • Day 7–11

    Barcelona na Madrid

    April 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Ons trein na Madrid vertrek om 10:00 en mens moet 'n halfuur voor die tyd daar wees. Ons is nie heeltemal seker hoe lank dit ons sal neem om by die stasie te kom nie en ons wil nie gejaagd wees nie. So natuurlik begin ons hoog betyds. 08:20 sit ons rustig in die stasie en wag om te sien by watter hek ons moet deurgaan en van watter platform die trein gaan vertrek! 😁
    Dit gee ons darem kans om boodskappe te stuur en op te vang met SA nuus.

    Die "boarding" van die sneltrein is basies net soos dié van 'n vliegtuig. Ons gaan deur 'n sekuriteitspunt, staan in 'n ry en wag dat iemand jou boarding pass kontroleer.

    Ons is in wa 11 saam met net paar ander mense - sitplekke 8A en 8B. (Later klim daar by ander stasie nog baie mense in.) Daar is baie spasie in die rak bo ons koppe, baie meer as in 'n vliegtuig s'n - ons rugsakke gly maklik in. Die sitplekke is lekker breed en gemaklik. Daar is selfs 'n kragpunt om jou foon te laai indien nodig. Die topspoed van die trein is 300 km/h, maar die spoed word heeltyd aangepas nav die omstandighede. Nog steeds is die reistyd minstens helfte in vergelyking met 'n motor/bus. Ek hou van treinry!

    Teen 300 km/h flits die omgewing vinnig verby, maar ons sien baie boerderye. Ons het beslis in wingerdarea begin, maar later meer graan en vrugtebome. Ek kan net van een plek onthou waar ons skape gesien het, verder niks veeboerderye naby die spoor nie.

    Terwyl ons ry, kry ek 'n e-pos om te sê agv tegniese kwessie is die trein met 20 min vertraag. (Ons het bietjie laat vertrek.)

    Aangekom in Madrid wil ons 'n bus neem na ons hostel. Google Maps verduidelik watter bus/busse die ding sal doen. Maar om die regte busstop op te spoor en seker te maak ons neem die regte bus in die regte rigting was meer as waaartoe ek en Truda in staat was. Ons besluit om eerder te stap. Volgens Maps is dit net 15 min en ons het teen daardie stadium seker al 15 min spandeer aan soek na die bus!

    Dit is presies hoekom ons metro verkies bo busse! By metro's is daar geen onsekerheid watter lyn of watter rigting om te gaan nie. Jy het 'n kaart (map) en kan presies sien watter lyn waarheen gaan en waar jy sal moet oorklim en die aanwysings in die stasies is (meestal) baie duidelik.

    Die meisie wat ons inboek in die hostel is baie goed. Sy verduidelik alles wat ons moet weet én oor sou wonder baie mooi volledig. Ons het 'n kamer met bunkbeddens en deel 'n badkamer met nog 'n kamer of 2.

    Ons skep bietjie asem voor ons besluit om 'n bustoer deur die stad te neem. Ons koop die kaartjies sommer online, maar ek lees nie sorgvuldig nie en die search engine optimiser funksies van Madrid Bustour is beter as die Hop On Hop Off bustoer s'n!

    Met die afstap na die (enigste) beginpunt vd die bustoer, koop ons vir ons koffie by 'n koffie-kiosk. Ons moet queue, want die jong man se produk is baie gewild!

    Daar is 2 opsies vir die bustoer - "modern or historic" Madrid. Ons beplan om die twee toere oor 2 dae te doen, want die kaartjie is geldig vir 24 uur. Halfpad deur sê ek vir Truda klink my ons is op die modern Madrid toer, want die kommentaar oor die geboue en parke en ou stadspoorte is maar min en kort. Agterna hoor ons dit was die "historic" tour! Gelukkig is daar ook 'n "walking tour" ingesluit in die kaartjie. Ons hoop om uiteindelik darem waarde vir geld uit hulle te melk.

    Op pad terug koop ons by 'n supermark aandete, yoghurt, melk en báie lekker druiwe uit Suid Afrika. By die hostel is 'n gemeenskaplike kombuis en yskas vir gaste se gebruik.

    'n Dag vol emosionele oppe en affe en jaag en wag en wonder oor goed en satisfaksie kom tot 'n einde. 'n Tipiese dag van reis in 'n land wat jy nie ken nie en afhanklik is van ander vir vervoer!
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  • Day 3

    Retiro Park

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Shortly after Dexx left for practice, we were surprised by a visit by my aunt (on my dad’s side), who lives in Madrid! We were just about to take off to Retiro Park when we received a call from reception that we had a visitor. Lucky break, she took a chance to see us not knowing whether we would be at the hotel. We went to the park together, I didn’t take many pictures myself as I was busy catching up!Read more

  • Day 3

    Off to First Practice

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Dexx is off to his first practice this morning. Parents are not permitted at the training facilities the first couple of days, that means we get to go off and explore Madrid. Retiro Park is just a few blocks away, probably our first destination.Read more

  • Day 3

    Cooking class 😋😋😋

    February 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We had a slow start this morning. Rod was up from midnight to 4 - just couldn’t sleep. On the other hand, I was up and down to use the bathroom but was out each time immediately. So at least one of us had a good night!!

    Our cooking class for paella and tapas started at 11 am. So at 10 we took a 15 minute taxi ride to Chef Loleo kitchen. We were 30 minutes early and since we didn’t have time for breakfast, we found a grocery store/market where we purchased bread and Iberian jambom- like prosciutto but better (as per Loleo). Then we found a table and chairs to sit and eat. Not exactly ideal but it worked :-).

    Loleo greeted us with a glass of wine in her beautiful space: private dining room for 20 and her spacious white kitchen. After washing our hands, we started by making a Russian salad: basically a very good potato salad. I didn’t realize you cook potatoes with skin on to retain flavor. Also you always start cooking veggies in boiling water to retain flavor and meats/bone broth in cold water to pull out flavor and nutrients. We also added a hard boiled egg, pickled vegetables and tuna (packed in oil from a can!) it was very good! The round mold made for a very nice presentation!

    Tapas gets the name from people who would put a cover or ‘lid’ on the top of a glass of wine to prevent dust and bugs from falling into it. They started to put a piece of bread with some kind of delicacy on the plate and ‘tapas’ as we now know it was born.

    We made croquettes that were so creamy, it was like silk on your tongue! The trick was to continue cooking the rue until it was smooth and silky - it slides off the spatula when ready. Then when forming the croquettes, you use two spoons to make a quenelle. Then dip in eggs and rolls in crumbs. Deep fry in olive oil and there you have a delicious croquette! They can be made from seafood, oxtail, mushroom, left over chicken, beef or even turkey. 😋😋

    Next, Loleo started exposing the truth about paella - a special rice - never long grain as it does not absorb liquids. Only three items: rice, vegetables, seafood or meat - finely chopped and not very much. There is a specific pan they use although it doesn’t much matter as long as the rice and broth do not come up higher than an inch or so. Once all ingredients added, paella is cooked on stove for 8 minutes, into a hot over for 8 mins, one minute on stove to get a crust on the bottom of the pan and 10 minutes resting. NEVER stir the rice. It breaks the body of the rice. A good paella has an even amount of crusty rice from the bottom and softer rice from the top.

    This dish was followed by steamed cod and veggies. Cod is very tender so after veggies were cooked, the cod was placed on top of the veggies. The kernel on the toothpick was cayenne. Too hot if left in. The toothpick ensures you can pull out the pepper before eating. Fish was steamed about 10 minutes. Amazing!!

    So background on cod…I’m not sure why this merchant decided cod would be a good idea, maybe a change of diet, well… the merchant didn’t understand the language of the seller well and while he thought he was ordering 10 lbs, he received 10 tonnes. As it was Lent and Catholics were not allowed meat or fish, as the story goes, the merchant went to the pope and asked that cod be allowed to be eaten plus a little $$ encouragement , the pope agreed and voila fish was allowed during lent 🐟

    Loleo had been in the wine marketing industry before taking her training to be a chef in Madrid. So she has an extensive knowledge of the wine industry. The French wine industry needed more fermentation to make their wine. Spain could produce a wine with good fermentation but then the flavor was too strong. So the French would buy the Spanish wine and blend it to make a palatable wine 🍷.

    Loleo gave us suggestions for great restaurants in another area of the city not so touristy. Sure to be a great gastronomy adventure! She also suggested taking the train to the south of Spain through Cordoba and Seville. Then rent a car to go along the coast….

    We headed back to the hotel via metro. Stopped at a coffee shop for a croissant and figure out exactly where we were lol!

    Pretty great day!

    Love to all♥️
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  • Day 6

    BULLFIGHT OVERVIEW (no gore here)!

    September 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    The bullfight spectators are incredible fans and the arena honors those great matadors over time with large paintings on the walls, statues, exhibits, and bios. There was even an exhibit of old posters (see a few interesting ones from American culture). We saw the bullfight at Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas (in existence from 1929) and was the largest bullfighting ring in Spain seating 24,000 and now the last arena left (at one point there were 1,700 rings).

    Bullfighting goes back to prehistoric times of worship and sacrifice and is traced to 711 CE. It became popular in Spain in 1726 with King Philip V in order to reduce social tension and then it quickly spread to be a popular activity and performance art. Bullfighting is a unique part of the Spanish culture and history. It is deeply tied to the Hispanic culture and identity and not considered as a sport or competition but rather a highly ritualized event.

    By 1826 the bullfight was standardized with each event having 3 matadors and 6 bulls, which is what we observed during our 2.5 hour adventure. Although it has been outlawed in many countries since the 1980’s due to animal welfare concerns, and the thought that it is an indication of a country not being “forward-looking” in social and economic policies. People argue that the bull is killed in the fight, but bulls are raised to be killed and it is the method of killing that may be in question and that the death of animals in slaughterhouses is often much worse than the death in the ring.

    Watching a bullfight is witnessing a dialogue between man and bull, attempting the bring out the animal’s best qualities while the matador performs the killing in an artistic manner. The bullfight is very organized with hundreds of rules and traditions.

    The art of the cape is one of the most visual acts of bullfighting, with the matador making impressive passes both technical and artistic in nature. Well-received passes are celebrated by the audience with shouts of “OLE!”.
    Ironically, bulls are color blind, and the red color is just tradition (and masks the blood). They attack moving objects. Three matadors each fight against two bulls, killing a total of 6 bulls.

    Each bull is at least four years old and weighing up to about 1,300 pounds. Each matador has 6 assistants (picadores) on horseback, 3 flagmen (banderillos) and a swordman (and his assistants) along with at least two “peons” to help with the “messy work”.

    It starts out with pomp and circumstance with the parade before the "fight" begins. Then there are three stages: 1. The bull enters the ring and is observed as to how and where he moves. Two horse-mounted “picadors” stab the bull’s neck when it charges to weaken him. 2. Three “banderilleros” stick a pair of barbed dart-like sticks into the shoulders of the bull, making him fiercer but it also makes it weaker. 3. The matador enters the ring, carrying a sword and a red cape. He performs a series of passes attempting to kill the bull with his sword. The passes are considered a form of an art and emotional connection to the audience through the bull. He tries to get the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades and through the aorta or heart for a “quick and clean death". If not successful, the matador must then cut the bull's spinal cord with a second sword, to kill it instantly and spare the animal pain. This takes about 10 minutes until the matador kills the bull (never more than 15 minutes are allowed to remain humane). Many matadors have been gored are hurt or killed in these 10 minutes.

    Bulls are specifically bred for their aggressiveness and always charge at a target. The matadors are professionally trained how to kill the bull. The matadors gain celebrity status, trained in bullfighting schools in Spain, learn the history, traditions, rules, values (respect and patience) and techniques of bullfighting. They wear elaborate costumes, “suit of lights”, from the 17th Century, embroidered specifically for them. The number of bull fights have declined from over 4,000 a year in 2007 to less than 1,000 a year in 2022.

    Warning: the next 3 posts may be disturbing to some people but we went in order to experience a bullfight, not to enjoy the fight but rather to understand an important part of Spanish culture and history that has now all but been eliminated in most of the World (including Mexico most of Spain).
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  • Day 3

    Post office 😬

    July 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Okay super proud of myself for this one. Never been to a post office in the US before cause they intimidate me 😅. But I freakin figured out how to send my clothes/extra shoes to Santiago de Compostela with the post office workers not knowing any English. Hopefully I sent it to the right place, guess I’ll figure out in 3ish weeks 😂Read more

  • Day 4

    Bec's Choice

    July 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A gardener’s dream this morning with a few hours spent at Real Jardin Botanico. Beautiful bonsai, some lovely flowers in bloom, and lots of interesting garden areas. It was nice to walk around under the trees in 26 degrees. (Well that was Bec's choice.) I then dragged her off to check out some interesting buildings and then later after an afternoon siesta I dragged Bec halfway across the city to the Royal Palace, absolutely stunning.
    Paella for dinner at our little 'local' restaurant (they know us now and are very lovely, and excuse our poor attempts at speaking Spanish).
    Off to Pamplona, then St Jean Pied de Port tomorrow before beginning the Camino on Wednesday. We are ready to go!
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  • Day 18

    Day Eighteen: Barcelona Here We Come!

    April 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was the road to our final stop before the guided tour! We had a late morning train to catch at 11:25. No worries at all! I went to bed early, ready for a relaxed morning. Then I wake up to Ethan's head, looking down from the top bunk, saying, " it's 11, we need to wake up now!" He had face paint on, blood on his face, and man, I was so lost. How the hell did I sleep for 11 hours?!?! And the one who partied woke me up!! Choas ensues as we run to get to the train station. Of course, it is a 30-minute walk.. so we jump on e-scooters and make it with a little time left. But in Spain you can only park them in certain areas and we couldn't find one.. and when we did ethan's app was buggy and didn't work. So I ran to the station while he tried to find a different one. And, of course, there is security. And the train just left, like a minute too late... so there goes more money. But it's official, I have booked for the wrong time and arrived late. So, really, I've made all the mistakes u can, so nothing else will happen! I hope. And I should say Ethan did this on no sleep and severely hungover, so good for him. But afterward, when we arrived, we walked over to the hostel, got comfortable, and went for food. We went everywhere nearby to buy food but everywhere was closed... we couldn't find food at all! Finally landed on a place. It was funny because the guy even had to use Google translate to ask us what we wanted. And of course, the burger we got was medium rare, which is way too normal here. It makes the meat a little too slimy... Overall, it felt like another nice local find. It's extra nice because the burgers without extra charge include cheese, fried egg, and bacon. Then we went back to the hostel and got another free dinner too, some nice pesto pasta! Then, since we decided to go to the pub crawl on the first day of any hostel, we went out again. Honestly, this time, it was disappointing. It was free but stopped at one bar and one club. It was free, though, with a free shot! We did start with drinking games at the hostel. It was this board with different bubbles containing activities. The crowd was not very fun, but the idea of the game was awesome! I feel like the night went the same way. It was not very exciting. Me and Ethan ended up just going to the beach right beside the bar and had a bro to bro moment talking about life and things. He is my brother, and it is truly unreal to have him here with me. Makes everything feel like a dream. I love you, Ethan, and I'm glad we are making everything work and just having a blast!Read more

  • Day 5

    Madrid Part 2

    September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Walked 12 miles today.

    Started the day with the buffet breakfast at our hotel. I tried the pan con tomate. It was tasty but it's really hard to beat the freshly baked croissant. We spent the rest of the morning waking it off in the Parque del Retiro.

    We shopped and ate throughout the afternoon. I found several fabric stores but was only able to shop at two of them before they all closed for siesta. The Mercado de San Miguel was crowded and fun for tapas.

    We capped the night with an intimate flamenco show. They only allowed us to record the opening song. I really enjoyed the show. The female dancer made beautiful shapes with her dress and body. The male dancer looked like Rick Springfield (enough said there).

    Tomorrow we head for Pamplona.
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  • Day 3

    Madrid Part 1

    August 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    We put 8 miles on our feet exploring some of Madrid's delights. Started out with a simple but filling breakfast, walked up Calle Atocha through Plaza Mayor to the Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena. We toured the cathedral and marveled at its beauty. One room covered in gorgeous mosaics didn't allow photography so you'll have to check it out for yourselves.

    Next we toured the Royal Palace and said hi to King Felipe and Queen Letizia (ok, it was a painting). Lots of beautiful art and tapestries. After that, a well earned lunch in the cave at El Botín, operating since 1752.

    For dessert, churros and chocolate at Chocolatería San Gines. Yum!

    We did a little more walking and window shopping, then picked up some Jamón Iberico de Bellota to nibble on later.
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