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  • My Camino Francés
    Day 21

    Camino Day 16

    May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It’s official, ladies and gents - on Day 16 of the Camino, I finally earned my first blister! If it was going to happen, today was the day. We powered through 35km from Burgos to Hontanas, with 330m of elevation and 328m of descent. After that kind of trek, the mineral springs pool was the perfect reward — and honestly, I’ve never felt better.Read more

  • TravelerMy Camino
    22111242
    Day 21

    Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino

    May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    I left this morning in a misty rain that turned into a steady rain as the morning went on. We had quite a climb to start the day, but the views were absolutely breathtaking! It's hard to miss the immensity of God's power when it stretches out before you like this! Most of us walked in silence and solitude, intent on the muddy road before us. The mud covered my shoes and flicked up onto my legs and pants - eventually drying into crusty chunks that fell into my socks. But the silence and stillness was so peaceful...

    Today it was 12 kilometers of walking before there was a stop for a hearty meal. Most mornings start with fruit and bread to get you to the first town with a bar offering coffee and soft drinks, hearty croissants and my favorite, the tortilla, a frittata with potatoes and onions. It's a welcome boost of protein and carbs to get you on down the road.

    The afternoon passed quickly through waving fields of grain that changed from greens to yellows as the wind tossed it. Wildflowers in purples, yellows, and reds lined the fields with brilliant color. It's humbling to be such a tiny speck in such vast beauty. And it puts my little worries into glorious perspective, I pray I can keep this sense of my place in the universe when this journey is over.

    Tonight promises another wonderful shared meal with fellow pilgrims. And tomorrow will be a longer day of walking.

    Steps: 31,372
    Distance: 13.34 miles    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago - May 2025
    1111
    Day 19

    Day 16 - Views forever

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 10 °C

    Castrojirez to Boadilla del Camino
    19.8km
    Accumulated distance 388.4km
    A casual time out the door of the very Italian-esque Jacobus hotel after breakfast. Unsure what the weather holds, about 8deg to start and a forecast for rain.
    We continue on good walking tracks, nicely graded and in good condition but proud standing stones still keep finding my blisters. I had a new blister develop on the outside of my left foot with my new sandals yesterday, I called her Gullston - came out of nowhere, nasty, and angry.
    First challenge of the day about an hr out of town, a very steep climb up to the Mirador del Alto de Monstelares, about 140m elevation gain. It was hard work but quite satisfying overtaking the cyclist who had passed me earlier in the valley. The views from the top were breathtaking, back to town with low lying cloud and mist, and forwards over the Meseta where it felt like we could see forever.
    I bumped into Brendan and Karen coming down the other side and we spent the rest of the morning together.
    The rest of the day was continuing through the expansive wheat fields with lots of great views.
    Picnic lunch stop in Itero de la Vega where I parted with my walking buddies.
    The rest of the route was good going making good time to get into Boadilla del Camino by 2.30 to check into the hotel and a good few hours ahead of the thunder and rain.
    Moment of the day was powering past the walking cyclist up Alto de Monstelares, and the few times coming over a little rise to a new view opening up over the fields.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago - May 2025
    11211
    Day 18

    Day 15 - Into the Meseta

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Estapar to Castrojirez
    26.2km
    Accumulated distance 368.6km
    It was drizzling when I left Estapar, a few hours of navigation ahead of me to get back to the Camino route. Some of the route was on roads which had pros and cons, good to make up time, but a hard surface and have to watch for cars.
    The morning views were nice, and I started getting a sense that I was entering the Meseta with the flatter landscape, big sky views, and huge wheat fields.
    It took about 3 hrs to get back onto the Camino route and finally saw some people again.
    Nice break and lunch in Hontanas, then back onto the path again. Apart from the sticky mud, the walking was generally good underfoot, with some unevenness that hurt my blisters and gave me a new one.
    Bumped into Brendan and Karen again at the ruins of the Convent of San Antón, they are also in Castrojirez tonight.
    Nice looking hotel, I rather enjoyed the relaxation rather than exploring town.
    Moment of the day was just before Castrojirez where I passed a wheat field dotted with red poppy heads, it looked great.    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    1
    Day 23–24

    Castrojeriz - Frómista

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    The 1st song I heard this morning as we were about to start our day was ‘Imagine’ by John Lennon. What a perfect way to begin!
    It rained most of the night and was still spitting rain out of darkened skies the first steps of the day.
    The climb out of Castrojeriz back on to the Meseta is a tough one.
    12% uphill grade with an almost 600 ft elevation gain in about a mile. Good way to warm up. 😵‍💫
    Thankfully, the ground under foot was solid and no lightning. Little did we know that we would be slogging through miles of gooey mud and doing a dance to keep from loosing footing.
    Five miles in we came upon a fellow in his camper van setup at a wide spot next to an asphalt road that we would be walking on selling snacks, fruit, and coffee. Bonus: there were cement picnic tables that had dried in the sun and we could get off our feet a moment. So needed!! The Camino provides.
    Had a couple more stops in actual towns for snacks/coffee - snacks/beer. They were not as close together as we’ve had in the past.
    Met a man and his daughter who was celebrating her 10th birthday today on the Camino! They started 200 miles back just as we did and plan on finishing in Santiago. Oh the stories she will have for the rest of her life! We sang her an impromptu happy birthday. 😊
    Today was quite a long one, clocking 26 km with the mud making if feel more like 46.
    We were grateful to arrive at Hotel san Martin in Frómista for the night about 1600. Great room, great pilgrim meal, all in the shadow of a thousand year old church. Also found a pharmacy here that knew exactly what we needed for sore muscles, a blister or two and the nagging Plantar Fasciitis that’s been a constant pain in my left foot from the start.
    Again, the Camino will provide.
    Life is good!
    L & C: the best part of the day was NOT slipping and falling into the mud and the sun coming out to help dry everything out!    Read more

  • Camino de Santiago
    111121111121
    Day 22–23

    Hornillos - Castrojeriz

    May 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    This morning greeted us with clear blue sky and 45° after an evening filled with hard rain and occasional hail for a few hours.
    Our albergue was shared with 4 others and was absolutely quiet and no bunk beds! Never heard peep all night.
    The owner left us orange juice, fresh bread, pastries and coffee for a DIY breakfast.
    First town for our ‘second breakfast’ was about 3 hours down the Way. A friend from Australia, Richard, caught up with us mid morning - one we thought was miles if not days ahead of us. In fact, the first thing he said was “didn’t think I’d ever see you again but 3 days of food poisoning completely changes your outlook.” As bad as it was, he said it was the Camino’s way of reminding him he wasn’t running a race. Chance encounters like these and the revelations they bring are life’s little blessings.
    We are walking in the Meseta for the next several days. A region that is agriculturally developed in endless fields of wheat, barley, oats, and peas as far as you can see in any direction. It’s all green now but will be golden in another month or so at harvest. It’s gentle rolling hills and sometimes flat for miles. It’s beautiful in its own way and offers hours to think and meditate to the sound of each footstep as it crunches in the gravel.
    Heel to toe. Heel to toe. One foot in front of the next with purposeful steps. Breathing becomes a steady rhythm and the miles pass by . . .

    The best part of the day:
    Seeing Richard, finally making it to the first town for snacks and coffee and a great communal dinner tonight .    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    2324
    Day 13–14

    Castellanos de Castro - Itero de la Vega

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Flucht aus dem Sägewerk (Schlafsaal) um 6.15 Uhr
    Durchquerung von Castrojeriz, einer der längsten Städte Spaniens
    Aufstieg zum Alto de Molestares (909 m)
    kurze Besichtigung der verfallenen Klosteranlage San Anton
    Mittagsrast bei der Bücke über den Río Pisuerga
    13.30 Uhr Ankunft in Itero de la Vega
    Interessantes politisches Gespräch mit einem Basken und Kanadier beim Diner
    angenehme 22,6 km    Read more

    See translation
  • TravelerThe Beauty of Moving Slowly
    1
    Day 17–18

    Castrojeriz

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    What a perfect day for a walk. I set off from Hornillos with the sun just coming up, a nip in the air, no wind and an overcast sky. As it turned out, I had a day of appreciating the nature and environment around me, as well as a experiencing a profound admiration for the spirit of some of the pilgrims along the way.

    Early in the day, the path was quite easy to walk on but there was some evidence of the rain from yesterday. In some places I had to skirt the main path and take a diversion to avoid the water and mud that completely blocked an easy way forward. Coming into San Bol, which is just an albergue in the middle of nowhere, and then on to Hontanas, I was again surrounded by cereal crops for as far as I could see in all directions.

    Then, I experienced a first for me – I found the end of a rainbow. I haven’t seen a good rainbow for years and, as I went along, it appeared over to my right. As I continued, I saw more and more of it appear until I could see it from right to left across the sky. Then, as I came around a bend in the path, I could see the left end of the rainbow as it landed in a paddock next to me. Unfortunately, no pot of gold, but priceless.

    For much of the day, my head was full of ear food. All I could hear as I went along were the sounds of the wind, my footfall, and the twittering of small birds that were hiding in the crops and small bushes that appeared occasionally. I was completely present and was thinking of how fortunate I am to be out here, in this place. I also saw a couple of pilgrims that inspired me. I’m not the fastest dog in the race, but I passed a couple of pilgrims who were measuring their progress with each step, rather than town by town as most of us do. Even though their progress is slow by comparison, their determination, persistence and spirit are inspiring and I’m sure I will see then again along The Way.

    Hontanas is a nice little pilgrim village that is nestled in a crease between the hills. I stopped for a quick break and then left, hoping for a quick passage for the second half of my walk. Unfortunately, the mud and water that lay on the path slowed my progress but it’s all part of the experience in heading toward Santiago. Further on, I came to the convent of San Anton. These days, the road passes through the middle of the ruins and, once I had passed through, I could see Castrojeriz in the distance. I was hoping to beat the rain that was coming so I put the jets on but the rain caught me with a couple of kilometres to go. It wasn’t too bad, and the walk into town was under the sun that made a late appearance.

    Tonight, I am in one of my favourite stops on the Camino. It is a very comfortable Inn with a relaxing common area and a beautiful old library. Castrojeriz is a very old town and was overseen by a castle on the hill that you can see in the photos. Under the town is a network of tunnels that they used for defensive purposes, and basements that housed their animals. I’m sitting here blogging away and relaxed after a good day on the Camino but tomorrow starts with a steep climb up to the mesa above the town and then on to Fromista.

    No video clip today because they are a little out of sync with my progress but we will pick them up again tomorrow. In the meantime……

    Buen Camino everyone.

    Distance today: 20 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 327 kms    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago/ Camino Fra
    111
    Day 12

    Day 12 May 3 Logrono to Najera

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Day 12 Saturday May 3
    Logrono to Najera
    Happy to have sunshine to start the day. The Camino de Santiago converted Lagrono into one of the most important towns on the route. There is so much history here about the Camino. It’s nice to be in a big city every few days. Lots more to see and restaurants but I like the smaller quaint towns more. We were walking for about four hours and getting tired. Then we saw a fridge with ice cream cones and drinks. Someone set it up and only asks for a donation. It was wonderful and we really enjoyed eating the ice cream cone.
    We shared our room with a group of people from Korea. They are lovely group of people and like to take funny pictures. I am meeting so many different people from all over.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago (Francés)
    211
    Day 26–27

    Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    And the rain keeps on coming!!
    The sun made an attempt to come out early this morning but it was quickly shut down by a thunder and lightning storm that gave way to heavy rain and strong winds.
    Jamie and Sean, whom we met on our first day on the Camino, walked the meseta a week ago under full sunshine and hot weather. Jamie was complaining about that, but I would have traded the rain in a second!
    But, we take what we get. Like William Saroyan once said, “I was glad the world was there, so I could be there too”.
    The wind was blowing west to east, meaning the rain was hitting us hard on our faces.
    Half way to Castrojeriz, there is a cafe and it was open! Packed with peregrinos soaking wet and cold, it was difficult to find a place to sit. I shared a table with a young man from Japan, an American living in Valencia, and a priest from San Antonio, Texas who is moving to Baltimore in the summer. What a combination!!! After half an hour or so, it was hard to give up our seats and keep moving so that other pilgrims could warm up.
    It is so difficult to walk without looking down for fear of falling…. But every time I looked up, there it was, the immense beauty of the green fields of the meseta against a relentless dark sky.
    No picture does justice to the landscape.
    I finally arrived in Castrojeriz, visited the church, and checked into the albergue.
    What followed was just the mundane tasks of doing laundry, trying to find ways to dry my boots, talk to pilgrims a little, have dinner, and retreat to my bed to get ready for tomorrow.
    I think I have a hole in the sole of my boot because the water kept crawling in from the heel. In any case, there is no time to get a new pair and break them. I will just continue to get wet.
    If Eric could fly back home with half a sole detached from both his boots, then I can walk with a hole in one of mine.
    By the way, it will also rain tomorrow.

    Castrojeriz: Stayed at Albergue Rosalia    Read more

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