Spain
Praza de Barcelos

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  • Day 60

    Pontevedra

    November 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Gestern fuhren wir von Foz nach Pontevedra, mit einem kurzen Zwischenstopp in Santiago de Compostela. Ursprünglich hatten wir einen Stellplatz in Santiago eingeplant, doch der erwies sich als unattraktiv, weit außerhalb und mitten von vielen endlosen Parkgelände für Pilger. Bei heftigem Regen und trübem Wetter beschloss ich, einfach weiterzufahren und das Wetter zu nutzen, um ein Stück voranzukommen.

    Die Landschaft entlang der Strecke war einfach spektakulär. Die Straße führte uns durch grüne, hügelige Täler, steile, hohe Berge hinauf und dichte Wälder, die im Regen eine geheimnisvolle Atmosphäre hatten. Galicien mit seinen sattgrünen Wiesen, den steilen Felsformationen und den einsamen Bauernhöfen erinnert mich fast an eine raue, wilde Version Irlands. Die Landschaft scheint ihre eigene Geschichte zu erzählen, fast so, als ob jeder Hügel, jeder Fluss und jeder Felsen etwas von der langen Vergangenheit dieser Region in sich trägt.

    Als wir schließlich Pontevedra erreichten, war ich beeindruckt. Die Stadt hat eine bewegte Geschichte und ist bekannt für ihre strategische Lage im Nordwesten Spaniens, nicht weit von der portugiesischen Grenze entfernt. Pontevedra war einst ein bedeutender Handelshafen und ist immer noch eine lebhafte und kulturell reiche Stadt. Die Altstadt ist charmant und voller Geschichte, mit gut erhaltenen mittelalterlichen Gebäuden, Plätzen und Kirchen, die von einer Zeit erzählen, als Pontevedra eine wichtige Rolle in der maritimen Handelsroute spielte. Geographisch liegt die Stadt an der Ría de Pontevedra, einem der großen galizischen Flussmündungen, die die Küste prägen und eine natürliche Verbindung zum Atlantik schaffen.

    Interessanterweise hat Pontevedra es geschafft, sich zu einer der sichersten Städte in Spanien zu entwickeln, trotz seiner lebhaften und geschäftigen Atmosphäre. Es wurde viel in die Stadterneuerung und Sicherheit investiert, und heute ist die Kriminalitätsrate hier bemerkenswert niedrig. Das macht das Erkunden der Stadt sehr angenehm und gibt einem ein entspanntes Gefühl.

    Zu meiner Freude lag der Stellplatz diesmal tatsächlich zentral und gut erreichbar in der Stadt. Nach unserer Ankunft am frühen Abend machten Bryan und ich uns auf den Weg, um die Stadt zu erkunden, auch wenn es bereits dunkel war. Die Stadt war lebendig – bei milden 16 Grad füllten die Menschen die Straßen, die Cafés und Bars waren voller Leben, und überall saßen oder standen Leute, die die abendliche Atmosphäre genossen. Die Straßen und Plätze waren erleuchtet, und die ganze Stadt hatte eine einladende, warme Stimmung, die einfach mitreißend war.

    Da ich unbedingt etwas essen wollte, suchte ich nach einem passenden Restaurant, was sich als Herausforderung erwies, denn die meisten Lokale öffnen hier erst um acht oder neun Uhr abends – einfach zu spät für mich an diesem Abend. Schließlich fand ich ein Fusion-Restaurant, das bereits geöffnet hatte, und entschied mich, dort einen lokalen Burger zu probieren: galizisches Rindfleisch mit iberischem Schweinespeck. Der Preis von 16 € war nicht überraschend, in den deutschen Metropolen bezahlt man ähnliche Summen. Doch die Qualität enttäuschte etwas – das Fleisch war durchsetzt mit härteren Teilchen, was nicht gerade für die besten Zutaten sprach. Es war in Ordnung, aber kein wirkliches Highlight, was ich mir von der galizischen Küche erhofft hatte, und nicht etwas bei dem ich mit lokaler Produktion geworben hätte.

    Meine Freundin und ich haben an der Mittelmeerküste immer wieder hervorragend gegessen, und daher hatte ich mich darauf gefreut, auch hier in Nord Spanien und Galizien ähnlich positive Erfahrungen zu machen. Aber wir sind fast an der portugiesischen Grenze, und bis jetzt ist es nicht passiert.

    Here is the French translation followed by the English translation of your text:

    Français:

    Hier, nous avons conduit de Foz à Pontevedra, avec un court arrêt à Santiago de Compostela. À l’origine, nous avions prévu un emplacement à Santiago, mais il s’est avéré peu attrayant, situé loin à l’extérieur et entouré de nombreux parkings interminables pour les pèlerins. Avec la pluie battante et le temps maussade, j’ai décidé de continuer à conduire et d’utiliser le mauvais temps pour avancer un peu.

    Le paysage le long du trajet était tout simplement spectaculaire. La route nous a conduits à travers des vallées verdoyantes et vallonnées, de hautes montagnes escarpées et des forêts denses qui avaient une atmosphère mystérieuse sous la pluie. La Galice, avec ses prairies verdoyantes, ses formations rocheuses abruptes et ses fermes isolées, me rappelait presque une version rugueuse et sauvage de l’Irlande. Le paysage semblait raconter sa propre histoire, comme si chaque colline, chaque rivière et chaque rocher portait en lui une partie du long passé de cette région.

    Lorsque nous avons finalement atteint Pontevedra, j’ai été impressionné. La ville a une histoire mouvementée et est connue pour sa position stratégique dans le nord-ouest de l’Espagne, non loin de la frontière portugaise. Pontevedra était autrefois un port de commerce important et reste aujourd’hui une ville animée et culturellement riche. La vieille ville est charmante et pleine d’histoire, avec des bâtiments médiévaux bien conservés, des places et des églises qui racontent l’époque où Pontevedra jouait un rôle clé dans les routes commerciales maritimes. Géographiquement, la ville se trouve sur la Ría de Pontevedra, l’une des grandes estuaires de Galice qui marquent la côte et créent un lien naturel avec l’Atlantique.

    Intéressant, Pontevedra a réussi à devenir l’une des villes les plus sûres d’Espagne, malgré son atmosphère animée et affairée. Beaucoup a été investi dans la rénovation urbaine et la sécurité, et aujourd’hui, le taux de criminalité y est remarquablement bas. Cela rend l’exploration de la ville très agréable et procure une sensation de détente.

    Pour mon plus grand plaisir, l’emplacement du parking était cette fois vraiment central et facilement accessible dans la ville. Après notre arrivée en début de soirée, Bryan et moi sommes partis explorer la ville, même s’il faisait déjà nuit. La ville était vivante - à une douce température de 16 degrés, les gens remplissaient les rues, les cafés et les bars étaient pleins de vie, et partout, les gens s’asseyaient ou se tenaient debout pour profiter de l’atmosphère du soir. Les rues et les places étaient illuminées, et toute la ville avait une ambiance accueillante et chaleureuse qui était simplement entraînante.

    Voulant absolument manger quelque chose, j’ai cherché un restaurant approprié, ce qui s’est révélé être un défi, car la plupart des établissements n’ouvrent pas avant huit ou neuf heures du soir - beaucoup trop tard pour moi ce soir-là. Finalement, j’ai trouvé un restaurant fusion qui était déjà ouvert, et j’ai décidé d’y essayer un burger local : du bœuf galicien avec du bacon ibérique. Le prix de 16 euros n’était pas surprenant, car on paie des sommes similaires dans les métropoles allemandes. Cependant, la qualité était quelque peu décevante - la viande était parsemée de morceaux plus durs, ce qui n’indiquait pas les meilleurs ingrédients. C’était correct, mais pas vraiment un point culminant, ce que j’avais espéré de la cuisine galicienne, et ce n’était pas quelque chose que j’aurais vanté comme étant de production locale.

    Ma amie et moi avons toujours mangé merveilleusement bien sur la côte méditerranéenne, donc j’avais hâte de vivre des expériences similaires ici dans le nord de l’Espagne et en Galice. Mais nous sommes presque à la frontière portugaise, et jusqu’à présent, cela n’a pas été le cas.

    English:

    Yesterday we drove from Foz to Pontevedra, with a short stop in Santiago de Compostela. We had originally planned a spot in Santiago, but it turned out to be unattractive, far outside and amidst many endless parking areas for pilgrims. With heavy rain and gloomy weather, I decided to just keep driving and use the weather to get ahead.

    The landscape along the route was simply spectacular. The road took us through green, rolling valleys, up steep, high mountains, and dense forests that had a mysterious atmosphere in the rain. Galicia, with its lush green meadows, steep rock formations, and isolated farms, almost reminded me of a rugged, wild version of Ireland. The landscape seems to tell its own story, as if each hill, river, and rock holds something of the region’s long past.

    When we finally reached Pontevedra, I was impressed. The city has a turbulent history and is known for its strategic location in the northwest of Spain, not far from the Portuguese border. Pontevedra was once an important trading port and is still a lively and culturally rich city. The old town is charming and full of history, with well-preserved medieval buildings, squares, and churches that tell of a time when Pontevedra played a key role in the maritime trade routes. Geographically, the city is located on the Ría de Pontevedra, one of the large Galician estuaries that shape the coast and create a natural connection to the Atlantic.

    Interestingly, Pontevedra has managed to become one of the safest cities in Spain, despite its lively and bustling atmosphere. Much has been invested in urban renewal and security, and today the crime rate here is remarkably low. This makes exploring the city very pleasant and provides a relaxed feeling.

    To my delight, the parking spot was actually centrally located and easily accessible in the city this time. After our arrival in the early evening, Bryan and I set out to explore the city, even though it was already dark.

    The city was vibrant—at a mild 16 degrees Celsius, people filled the streets, the cafés and bars were full of life, and everywhere people sat or stood enjoying the evening atmosphere. The streets and squares were lit up, and the whole city had a welcoming, warm ambiance that was simply captivating.

    Needing to eat something, I looked for a suitable restaurant, which turned out to be a challenge because most places here do not open until eight or nine in the evening—far too late for me that night. Eventually, I found a fusion restaurant that was already open and decided to try a local burger made with Galician beef and Iberian pork belly. The price of 16 € was not surprising, as you would pay similar amounts in German cities. However, the quality was somewhat disappointing—the meat was interspersed with tougher bits, which did not suggest the best ingredients. It was okay, but not a highlight I had hoped for from Galician cuisine, and not something I would advertise for its local production.

    My friend and I have consistently enjoyed excellent meals on the Mediterranean coast, so I was looking forward to similarly positive experiences here in northern Spain and Galicia. But we are almost at the Portuguese border, and so far, it hasn’t happened.
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  • Day 15

    Day 15: Ponte Sampaio to Pontevedra

    November 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    The universe has been trying to teach me the lesson of the Tortoise and the Hare my whole life, but I haven’t always been good at applying it. This Camino is definitely teaching me that slow and steady wins the race. Today was a nice 11 km walk to the medieval town of Pontevedra, mostly through forest and small farms. I did catch myself speeding up, then felt it in my shin so I would remember to slow down. Tomorrow’s walk is about 22 km, but mostly flat, so I plan to leave early and just take it slow. I mean, all I’ve gotta do is walk. 😂 And once I get to Caldas de Rais, I will be able to soak in the mineral hot springs, which should feel great.

    The town I’m in today is a beautiful old town that dates at least from the Roman times. Pontevedra is a well preserved medieval town, and I’m staying in a 16th century Renaissance palace tonight (Paradores Pontevedra, €90 for beautiful room w/ breakfast included). I’ve never stayed in a place quite like this, and it’s a treat to be here! I walked around the old town this afternoon, and even found a square where a bunch of gentlemen were playing a variety of musical instruments and singing. It was like a free concert, and it was nice to sit in the sun and listen to them. This is definitely a place I’d like to spend more time, but with the extra days taking care of my leg, I think I better keep going. And there’s still a chance I will need another rest day, so I better save it until I need it. Only a few walking days left until I get to Santiago!
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  • Day 11

    Pontevedra 12.7km (Hotel Avenida)

    October 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Even though today’s route was one of the shorter ones we decided to get away early as the forecast was for a better morning. We headed out of Arcade with the sun coming up at the crazy time of 8.15. A lovely walk through the old town and over the old bridge, climbing through the outlying villages till we hit forest paths. The paths were really nice to walk on and the weather was holding. Our only stops on the walk was to get a couple of stamps for our Camino passport and do a little trail side shopping with a guy doing leather products and Camino souvenirs. We were pushing on as we didn’t want to get wet again and the walking was easy. Had the NRL grand final radio coverage on ABC going as we walked. Arrived in Pontevedra around 11.30 and could get into our room but the bags hadn’t arrived so we had a shower and got some lunch before siesta time. We explored Pontevedra later in the arvo, a really beautiful little town with lots of squares and no vehicles. After dinner we were able to see Pontevedra at night which was nice. Another big day coming up tomorrow.Read more

  • Pontevedra to Combarro

    October 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Soaking rain then stinging rain. I separated from the Central Camino to the Spiritual Variant. This will eventually follow the path supposedly taken by St James’ (Sant Iago) followers when they returned his remains via boat to Spain. James went back to Jerusalem after trying to convert the folks of the Iberian peninsula. It didn’t turn out well for him in Jerusalem.

    At times the path is just wide enough for one and that’s with the brush fighting to keep your walking sticks. With the moderate rain, those narrow paths were muddy, a little slippery and the effort was finding the right next step to minimize soakage. My bladder lost it, then when I finally got to a cafe and changed out of my rain-soaked shirt, the zipper on my sweatshirt lost it. I scrambled to get a safety pin to cover some part of me and slouched through lunch.
    The hotel had laundry service, a tub, and a very good restaurant across the street. Such a blessing.

    A couple ladies from New Zealand crossed paths with me a few times. They asked what was my favorite part so far and I said the smell of eucalyptus. Makes me grin thinking of the conversation.

    Inner journey: sometimes all I can do on this trek is focus on the moment, where to step and to anchor myself with my poles, ready to stop any slide or fall.
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  • Pontevedra rest day

    October 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    This city is so alive, just not between 1:30 and 4:00pm, siesta time. They’ve turned the old city area into pedestrian only(plus a few delivery vans) so there’s milling, there’s cruising, there’s dog walking, there’s shopping and of course there’s sipping and watching.

    Lots of old churches, some are open for visitors, some dating from the 1400’s. Old mansions with family crests sculpted onto their exteriors. Statues, classical architecture government offices. On and on with old.

    I totally enjoyed my helado 🍧 sitting on a wall, watching people. Two-cheek air kisses instead of hugs, older ladies walking arm in arm three across, teen boys with rock star hair cuts and cigarettes, teen girls with lots of skin showing. Girls singing along to the buskers. Kids riding dads’ shoulders, little dogs straining on their leashes, other dogs unleashed, exploring smells then catching up with their humans. Life baby! Here it is in this town of so much old.

    Inner journey: wondering what pilgrims of old might have sought. In the beautiful round church of the virgin pilgrim, feeling a sense of bigger spirit, not something outside but extended and all encompassing. Individual expression within but linked.
    I asked again, to my higher self there touched, what’s next. And writing about this journey, and other journeys, came up. I am ok with that.
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  • Arcade to Pontevedra

    October 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Nice walk today. Weather was decent, humid, thick clouds. My clothes were clean and dry but even with multiple passes with the blow dryer, my shoes and insoles were still a little damp. I kept part of my awareness on my feet, as always, watching for hot spots. I adjusted the laces a couple times, and, knock on wood, all’s good with my feet.
    A long slow up climb, mostly in the woods or past farms. Then pretty steep down paths. I had wanted to stop at a particular village but there was no Bolt or Uber service so I kept on and I kept on, walking all the way to my hotel, praying for strength throughout the last 2 miles.

    Pontevedra is a hopping city. Even at 8:30pm, there’s very active street noise.

    Inner Journey: I came upon a section of big rocks like with the old Roman roads. “Oh, I hate these rocks, its so easy to twist an ankle.” Relieved when a dirt path appeared 40 yards up the hill, then discouraged when there was another stretch of the big rocks. I thought, hating them isn’t going to help, so what if I say I love them? So I did, on all the stretches of rocks. I suspected that loving them would either remove them from my testing grounds or I would actually transform my relationship to them. It did become more fun. I wonder if I could approach other things/people/situations with that attitude, would my experience of them shift?

    Any bets? How ‘bout the big Orange problem in the news? Could I?
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  • Day 14

    CP Day 11 The Climb

    September 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Not gonna lie. Today was rough. Once we left the coast, it was all uphill for about 7k. The steepest sections were in town. I was so far forward, I thought I could almost crawl.

    I didn’t take many pics in part because I was too busy trying to stay upright and also because my phone ran out of juice.Read more

  • Day 17

    Combarro

    September 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We had such an amazing day today! Lots of reasons for that: we just wanted to go 11 km from Pontevedra to Combarro, so there was no pressure for time. It's been very hot here especially in the afternoons but we left early so no pressure that way. The way was beautiful and shaded and sometimes just a narrow track. I felt so grounded and tuned in, like I had hoped for the whole way.
    We got to our hostel around 11 am but they don't allow check in until 11:30. We wandered down to the waterfront and had a drink. Then we ordered octopus for lunch hahaha. It's pretty good!
    We're currently up top in the garden drinking wine and loving the breeze. Anticipating the full moon, and seeing dolphins in the bay tomorrow morning.
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  • Day 15

    Pontevedra 2 days

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We left our host in Redondela early in the morning. He got up to make us a beautiful cup of coffee and send us on our way.
    We arrived in Pontevedra on a hot day 30⁰C after 19 or 20 km. I may say that our butts were dragging a little by the time we arrived! Stopped at a few little spots for a cold drink and a rest from the heat, so then we had to walk cross-legged for a while before finding a WC! 😆 but didn't have to use the bushes like several men did!
    We thought we had booked 2 nights at our hostel, they thought was just one, so I had to spend some time finding another place for tonight. It all worked out but I will say the communication is difficult. Debbie and I have both said that it would be very helpful if we spoke Spanish.
    Pontevedra is a lovely city. The round church is quite amazing, as is the monastery next to it.
    We met up with our new Manitoba friend Jacquie for a drink, and plan to see her again in Santiago!
    Tomorrow we will begin the Spiritual Route and go just 11 km to Combarro.
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  • Day 7

    Day 3 - at Caldas de Reis

    August 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Although we were told today’s distance would be about 13 miles, we walked closer to 17 miles. But we made it. It was through town and through forest for about half, and then it was through farm and residence area which was nice but a bit hot when the sun was out.Read more

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