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Spain Presa del Bernesga

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  • TravelerSpring 2025 Camino
    Day 24

    Lying low in León

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    So here I am, in the big city of León, and mostly what I’m doing is enjoying my very own little hotel room and not going out. Partly because it’s cold and rainy, but also, I just don’t love the big towns.

    Walking in of course you trek through outlying burbs and industrial areas, then into downtown city streets. Guided always by the friendly yellow arrows, of course. Your average pilgrim feels increasingly out of her comfort zone until suddenly the magical Big Stone Wall appears, and you step into the Old City. Ahh! Much better! Now, where’s that Cathedral?

    Very aggravating that I can’t seem to find a poster or website that spells out their schedule for Easter. Nor does the front desk lady have any idea. And the Cathedral is literally across the street from this hotel! Why do I not have the WhatsApp number for the two super-devout Catholics I met along the way? I’m sure they have the scoop.

    Lost: one wool mitten liner, some time this morning. Very sad.

    So, now that I’m on the verge of exiting both León and Semana Santa, my new focus is covering enough ground each day that I have a reasonable chance of walking to Finisterre. I very much wanted to already and then a Camino blogger I like went and posted the most inspiring discussion of the experience of arriving there. If I can do it without turning this into a rush, I will. I mean, who among us doesn’t want to walk to the End of the Earth?    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mixto
    2
    Day 4

    Day 2 - Oncina to Hospital de Orbigo

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Today I walked 25 km, a lot further than I have walked for a long time. But it was fairly flat, about half on dirt roads and half on pavement.

    I stopped twice - once for café con leche and tortilla español, and once for a coke and pan chocolate. Healthy treats. Now I’m enjoying a cerveza. ☕️🍺

    Tonight I will have dinner at the albergue. I am staying at Albergue Hidalgos.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mixto
    22
    Day 2

    Exploring León

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A shower and a change of clothes felt wonderful after 48 hours of travel! I set out to explore León. I saw my first Camino marker, stopped in at the Basilica San Isidoro, then Katedral León. It is such a beautiful building with so much history.

    Then I had two things on my agenda. Eat something and buy some poles. The lack of sleep made me completely indecisive; so, after wandering aimlessly, I headed back to my hotel and found amazing homemade potato chips, free with a beer 🍺 🍺 (una más, por favor), and a great price for 2 cheerful yellow hiking poles (both places less than a block from my hotel.)

    Now satiated and exhausted, I am heading to bed.    Read more

  • Spanien, Portugal
    12413
    Day 9

    Abstecher nach Leon

    April 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Ein sehr guter Tip vom Stefan (ein Freund von meinem Vater) dass wir unbedingt einen Abstecher nach Leon machen sollen. Eine angenehme Stadt, am Abend steppt hier der Bär. Stadtnähe haben wir einen Stellplatz bekommen. 20 Minuten sind wir zu Fuß rein gelaufen. Es gibt es viele Kirchen in der Stadt und ganz viele kleine Straßen wo die Bars sind. Morgen werden wir dann wieder ans Meer fahren.Read more

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  • TravelerSpring 2025 Camino
    Day 23

    Reliegos

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Well! I think my theme today is the push and pull between longing to connect and longing to disconnect. Yesterday I was talking with another woman who is walking solo and she was sharing her expectation of making close connections, in contrast to her experience of making casual, occasional connections. I could relate and I described the contrast between my first, very social Camino and this one, which is much like hers. The thing is, I know that such conversations ARE connection, and they really do comfort us.
    At the same time, I had booked at an albergue for last night which had many happy reviews because each bunk…drumroll please.. has a privacy curtain and its own outlet and light. Gasp! Such luxury! And I, too, was very excited about this curtain. Because as much as feeling isolated pains us, we ALSO long for separation and privacy. And just LOVE to draw that curtain! Isn’t that interesting? No wonder so many of us drink too much.
    AND, to pile onto that theme, tonight I went ahead and signed on for the communal meal at my albergue, because it was going to be vegetarian and I don’t eat meat on Good Friday, and it was at a reasonable hour. Usually I avoid them because I’m tired and done with people by the end of the day. Or so I tell myself. Because tonight was delightful! Good conversation, very good food, and two of us turned out to be musicians so we were treated to some great tunes. Could not have been nicer. AND yet, tomorrow I will have a private hotel room in Leon and I’m so excited for that! Even better than a dumb old curtain! So, back and forth, connect, hide out, feel lonely, connect. No answers here, just my rambling wondering about what on earth we humans are about. A very interesting Good Friday for me, and I’m guessing there are some connections to be made to that whole drama of love and loss as well…    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    Day 74

    Travel day to Zamora

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    It's kind of a long, boring day of waiting. We packed up and walked in the mix of snow and rain to the train station (about 3/4 of a mile). The temperature was hovering right around freezing.

    We catch our train to Madrid at 3:15 and then another one to Zamora at about 8:20. We are supposed to have a 3 hr layover, but the last two trains from Leon have both been late in leaving. I am glad we have some cushion.

    There are not many photos today, and we get into Zamora after 9 pm. The walk from the train station to our new place isn't too far.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2025
    Day 12–13

    Day 11-12 Astorga

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A very long 32km day. At least tomorrow is a rest day. Met Sonny and Lucien at the albergue and we ended up walking together and having a wonderful day. Even ended going for a traditional Spanish dinner with Lucien this evening. Unfortunately tomorrow everyone's moving on so I will probably not meet them again
    Ah well 😌    Read more

  • TravelerCamino 2025
    Day 11

    Day 10 Villar de Mazarife

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A 22km drizzley day so still needed to wear the poncho. I took a different route from last year, it was pretty nice, not too much road. Staying at a real old fashion albergue today. No washing today as nothing will dry. It's ok the cat lady did all my wash for 3e. Low bunk beds, sure I'll hit my head often, and so far we are 3 (Canada, Japan, UK). The UK boy better not snore!Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mixto
    2
    Day 3

    Day 1 - Leon to Oncina

    April 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I had SUCH a good sleep! And the hotel provided a filling breakfast. I was in no rush today, so didn’t start to walk until about 10:00.

    Walking out of León was easy but via sidewalks and industrial zones. At one point was a big pedestrian overpass, but it was blocked off. I must have looked confused but a local woman redirected me to an alternative route.

    I walked a bit with a woman from the UK, my first pilgrim contact! I was at the albergue by 1:00, with time for a cerveza.

    The albergue I stayed in tonight was charming and peaceful in a sleepy little town. There were 5 pilgrims, from Germany, New Zealand, and Canada. There was a communal meal which included paella. Very yummy.    Read more

  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    1
    Day 67

    Leon Day 1

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We picked up the Easter program, and it looks like at least 8 of the processions will go almost right by our apartment starting Friday night. There will be one Friday and Saturday. There will be 4 on Palm Sunday and one each on Monday and Tuesday. In Spain, Easter is a major holiday, and there are whole groups or confraternities that are dedicated to its celebration with uniforms, bands, and floats. The processions make their way through the streets, basically telling the story of Easter. I will take some videos and photos. We'll also see similar celebrations in Zamora.

    I am still feeling pretty rough. I took 2 naps today and made a big pot of chicken noodle soup (which helped me feel better.) We did go sit out in the sun a little on the two plaza nearest us the Plaza Mayor (where city hall is located) and Plaza San Martin which is basically a plaza with a ton of bars and restaurants on an open square.

    Apparently, it gets quite lively in this area. Our landlord told us it was perfectly safe to be out and about, but also left us ear plugs as Spanish fiestas (as in celebrating Easter) can go until early morning.

    Our little apartment has a washing machine and a decent kitchen although plates and glassware are not plentiful. I had Phil buy a couple of coffee cups and a vegetable peeler when he went our earlier today.

    I hope tomorrow I will feel well enough to visit some of the sites before the tourists arrive for the weekend.    Read more

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