Logroño

Today was such a beautiful day and full of intoxicating smells. As I walked through Logrono early this morning the air was thick with coffee brewing in every cafe. Freshly baked breads and pastries were being pulled out of ovens, smelling enticingly of yeast, cinnamon, and chocolate. The road out of town wound through parks and fields of lavender and wildflowers scenting the way as the sun rose and chased away the chill.

This region, Rioja, is known for its wine, as the rolling hills of grape vines attest. Men filled the fields, tending the vines and running great watering machines and tractors. The vines are cut back to the stump each year, but the new growth is already stretching up toward the lines strung for it, its tendrils ready to wrap around the wires and steady the growth.

The first town on the path today was Navarrete, 8 miles outside Logrono. It's interesting entering these sleepy towns. The streets are silent, winding between the solid rows of three-story buildings on either side. Occasionally a cat meows from a side street, and a few older people pass by, but it's oddly quiet.

In the center of town, though looms the Iglesia de la Asuncion with a sunlit square across the street from it. The square is full of pilgrims, because the town's one bar is next door. The bars here are more like cafes, places to get a coffee or cold drink and a sandwich or tortilla. Sandwiches are small rolls of crusty bread filled with omelettes, prosciutto, vegetables, chorizo - anything you can imagine. There are also sweet pastries and the ever-present tortilla, a sort of crustless quiche with potatoes and onions. Laughter and chatter fill the square as friends greet one another and pull up chairs. Guri calls me over and Caroline soon joins us as we have our "real breakfast."

The church in Navarrete is a simple stone structure outside that gives no sign of the glittering altar inside. Little ladies in house dresses are everywhere, dusting every sculpture and surface and cleaning the floors where our filthy boots have trapsed. Their work is a silent act of devotion and faith.

The road turns uphill but continues through fields of greening grape vines. The little town of Ventosa rises in the distance, encouraging me to keep climbingr. And what an adorable town! We're all pouring into the Albergue, laughing and greeting one another. After an afternoon break and a dinner of paella we all linger around the table, ordering more wine and talking about the day. Then we turn to singing, joining together in childhood songs in every language: "Row, row, row the boat" to "Frere Jaque." As we sing, pilgrims change their plans for tomorrow so we're all together again. Our family is forming.

Steps: 32.510
Distance: 13.75 milesRead more