Spain
Puente la Reina

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  • Day 32

    A mix up on towns

    March 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We walked a little further than expected today. It was a lovely day fo4 walking. The sun was shining, and it was not windy. The temperature was cool.

    We had a good breakfast with a pilgrim from Italy at our albergue. We walked to the next large town of Puente la Reina or "Bridge of the Queen." There we stopped and had a big lunch because our place tonight does not do supper, and there is no store in the town.

    After lunch, we walked 5 km or about 3 miles to the town where we thought our beds would be, but it was the wrong town. Our place was another couple of miles further!

    The owner had an appt today in another town and won't be home until after 6 pm, so we had plenty of time to walk. The bar nearby is closed until 6 pm, so we are waiting in the town square until he gets back. Tomorrow, we walk to Estella. We served there in an albergue in 2019, so we know that town well!
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  • Day 11–12

    Time to move on! Plan B

    October 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The last few days have certainly been a challenge but also in life’s typical mixed blessings way, wonderful! My beautiful Pilgrim friend Michelle rescued me and I have spent the last few days exploring this little part of paradise! Michelle is based in Logrona and we went on several road trips which was fantastic! A lot of the time we had beautiful views of the clouds but it was still fantastic to be here and to do this with her. Michelle has also helped me to realise that what happened in Pamplona was horrible but I’m not going to let the buggers win ! So we’ve come up with my next plan ! The weather here in Spain at the moment has been horrendous with lots of rain flooding etc. It has is also made a lot of the infrastructure , albergues, cafes etc are all closing early for the season which will make travelling across some of the more isolated parts of the Camino very difficult . So what I’ve decided to do is to go by train tomorrow to Santiago Compestella and I am going to the take six days to walk the 90 k out to the coast , something I’ve always wanted to do! This is for two reasons !One Michelle has helped me meticulously plan the trip including getting my pack taken forward so that the stress levels will be zero ! My accommodation is all booked and I know where I can get food and drink . There are also 4 other people doing the same walk and staying at the same alberques which is great. And two , It seems to be the only place in Spain that is going to have sunshine hopefully for the next week.!!
    I will then to return to Santiago then travelling to Sarria and I’m going to walk the last 120 K again. Once again. I love this part of the world and I can also make sure the infrastructure is all there to support me especially when my brain is a tad anxious and I find I really need structure to make me function effectively!
    I would also like to thank you all for your lovely messages! It means a lot and Im looking to the next couple of weeks with lots of positive posts!!
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  • Day 6

    Burgus rest day #2

    October 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today, I went to a rehab center. On day 3 of my trip, I twisted my ankle, and I have been walking on it for over a week.

    The rehab did hot and cold treatment, a lot of stretching exercising, and a lot of messaging. No Marek, not a Swedish massage. This massage was only on the foot.

    After examining it and poking at it, and asking a lot of questions. The verdict is in --- I damage the ligament by the foot where the leg bone meets the foot bone.

    I was told to do some exercises and cold treatments.

    I was given the green light to continue the Camino. Tomorrow, I continue.

    Camino Bob
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  • Day 16–17

    Burguete nach Puente la Reina / Gares

    September 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tag 15 (93 km, 1.000 hm)

    Tag 15 begann unspektakulär, also direkt ab zum Supermarkt. Wir haben übrigens neben der Herberge übernachtet, in der auch Ernest Hemingway regelmäßig residiert hat. Heute standen „nur“ 104 Kilometer auf dem Programm – eine Art Erholungsfahrt für uns. Naja, außer dass 22 Anstiege dabei waren, und unsere Beine sich von gestern noch wie Beton anfühlten. Die Strecke führte uns durch Pamplona/Iruña, und wir dachten uns: „Easy!“

    Dann kam die Realität in Form von Gravelstrecken. Wir können uns kaum vorstellen, dass die EuroVelo 3 eine "Rentnerroute" sein soll. Okay, vielleicht in Frankreich mit den schönen Kanälen und Bahnstrecken, aber hier? Die nassen Kieselstrecken waren irgendwann so nervig, dass uns selbst die Klänge von Mozart, Beethoven und Mehnermoos aus unserem Bluetooth-Lautsprecher nicht mehr motivieren konnten. Wir entschieden uns dazu, auf die parallel zur EuroVelo verlaufende Bundesstraße zu wechseln – ganz getreu dem Motto: „Straße ist Straße!“. Somit kamen wir am Ende mit nur 93 Kilometern an unserem Zielpunkt an.

    Und dann bei Kilometer 51,5: Ein klackerndes Geräusch an Max‘ Hinterrad. Das klang so gar nicht nach „Erholungsfahrt“. Ergebnis: Eine Schraube hatte sich komplett durch den Reifen gebohrt! Für uns Profis kein Problem – dachten wir zumindest, bis unsere Luftpumpe plötzlich den Geist aufgab. Also sind Markus und Daniel nach Pamplona vorgeradelt, um eine neue Pumpe zu kaufen. Die war schweineteuer, aber was will man machen. Max musste währenddessen am Straßenrand stehen und warten, der Arme.

    Ein alter Mann kam vorbei und wollte ihm helfen – MacGyver-Style. Er versuchte eine improvisierte Luftpumpe zusammenzubasteln, aber leider ohne Erfolg. Direkt neben uns war übrigens der Hauptsitz eines Tour-de-France-Teams, aber die hatten samstags natürlich geschlossen. Pech gehabt.

    Mit der neuen Pumpe haben wir den Reifen zwar aufgepumpt, aber die Pumpe hatte leider keine Baranzeige. Daher müssen wir auf jeden Fall zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt nochmal zu einem Fahrradladen und nachpumpen.

    Zur Mittagspause gab’s Burger in Pamplona/Iruña, und wir haben die weitere Route diskutiert. Plan: Überleben und ankommen.

    Dann der nächste Lacher: Eine Frau im Supermarkt dachte, sie hätte den Alarm ausgelöst. In Wirklichkeit war es Daniels Fahrrad, dessen Alarmanlage plötzlich losging. Wir haben uns köstlich amüsiert.

    Am Nachmittag fuhren wir über verlassene Straßen und durch verlassene Gewerbegebiete, die richtig „Lost Place“-Vibes verbreiteten. Man hätte hier problemlos einen Horrorfilm drehen können – „Radler im Nirgendwo“.

    Die Motivation schwankte spätestens bei den Anstiegen mit Gegenwind. Da half nur noch „Eye of the Tiger“ aus unseren Lautsprechern und der Gedanke, wir wären in einer Rocky-Balboa-Montage. In Wahrheit sahen wir eher aus wie drei gequälte Möwen gegen den Wind.

    Abends dann das Highlight: Eine tolle Herberge mit einem 3er-Zimmer und eigener Dusche! Unsere Erwartungen waren so niedrig, dass uns diese Luxus-Suite fast umgehauen hat. Sogar unsere nassen Zelte konnten wir im Fahrradabstellraum aufhängen. 10 von 10 Punkten für diesen Schlafplatz!

    Fazit des Tages: Schrauben im Reifen, improvisierte Luftpumpen, und die Erkenntnis, dass „Eye of the Tiger“ immer hilft – egal, wie viele Anstiege noch kommen.
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  • Day 7

    Best Walk Yet

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Given it was going to take over 2 miles to get out of Pamplona we set off in the dark at 06:50 and took advantage of the street lights. Flat, paved paths meant we were able get a march on, for the first time on the whole trip really.

    From Cizur Menor, 3.5 miles out of Pamplona, we caught our first glimpse of a ridge, lined with wind turbines which was around 6 miles in the distance. This was our one big climb of the day and I really like seeing something far away you can aim for. This certainly helped keep the pace up.

    On the way up I got chatting to an English guy who had a dodgy knee, but was still as quick as we were. I still haven't worked out if it was discouraging or encouraging when he told me he was 79!

    It was a bright sunny day with fantastic visibility from the top of the ridge and great views back to Pamplona. Following a tricky, steep decent over large loose stones we were soon motoring again. Downhill almost all the way into Puente de la Reina, our home for the night. We got in at 12:20, but couldn't check in till 13:00 so had to rehydrate in the bar. Felt like a half day.

    In the afternoon we looked round the small town, found a lovely pub/bar/restaurant, did some more rehydration and received updates from home on the Spurs v Arsenal game. Will have to stay up late tonight to catch MOTD2, based on the result!!

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina
    Distance: 14.84
    Time: 5hrs 26min
    Speed: 2.7mph
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  • Day 12–13

    Maneru to Estella

    September 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Lovely day walking through farmland. Olives, grapes, fig trees on the side of the road. Even a working windmill. Easy day 17km with no hard climbs. Ed was getting the hang of it, found the walk ok. We stayed in a luxury albergue overlooking the river, still shared bunks but everything was nice, proper sheets rather than disposable and smaller room, just 4 people in our room with 2 normal beds and our own bathroom. Ed had a big plate of pork ribs for dinner, best dinner for him so far. He wants to get a bike and I have started investigating, I visited a bike shop in Estella and also Decathlon. I’m in two minds if it’s a good idea…Read more

  • Day 11–12

    Zariquiegui to Maneru

    September 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Ed’s longest day of waking today 18km. It was easy enough until after lunch when we had longish steep uphill with no shade in blasting sun. I think Ed was a bit dehydrated, he had a headache. Mañeru was incredibly historic. It seems most people live in beautiful old buildings. Our albergue had an incredible carved stone floor in the entrance way. There is a photo of Ed there, probably a bit hard to see. Even the little downmarket supermercado was in a historic stone building. We bought olives stuffed with anchovies in little serving size tins and ate with a tooth pick. Shared a lovely pilgrim meal with the other guests and drank local vino Tinto, ie red wine, as we are now in a wine region.Read more

  • Day 10–11

    Pamplona to Zariquiegui

    September 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a short walk today maybe 12km. It was hot though with short climb into town. Tomorrow a bit more climb then steep down and apparently after that mostly flat for a good while. Ed is keen to ride a bike so I’ll look into hiring one. That will be good so we can cover a bit more distance each day. Ed fell asleep late afternoon for the evening so I went into Pamplona for dinner alone. I got to talking to a pilgrim in a bar and lined St my watch and it was 9:45. The door to albergue get locked at 10 so I jumped up& rushed home and got there with 2 minutes to spare almost suffering the same fate Ed had suffered the night before. The landscape is quite different now. Fields of sunflowers and haystacks, expansive and open with windfarms dotted about. We met a lovely couple from Melbourne. Unfortunately Steve has a lurgy he picked up on the plane so their Camino is not going the way they planned. It’s challenging for me to mould my walking to fit with Ed and be ok with that. I feel like I’m missing out on the people I meet that walk further and then I don’t see them again so hard to find my people. I’m working with my mind to be at peace with the Camino I’m on.Read more

  • Day 7

    Pamplona to Puente La Raina

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Soooooo....Three Canadians, a German and an Italian walk into a bar.....
    Needless to say we were extremely tired today! We found a camping resort and tonight we will sleep in a tipi.
    Today's Camino is brought to you by hangover sweats, first day of sunshine and also... we forgive you GermanyRead more

  • Day 3

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Good news first. I finally got a full night sleep. Yesss!! It’s been almost a week of only getting a few hours at a time. When I woke up at 5am and looked at my watch I was so happy to see it wasn’t 12-1am for once. Now the bad news. It was dumping buckets of rain when I woke up. Shit. I looked at the weather app and it said it would stop at 8. The walk today was up Alto Del Pardon (the hill of forgiveness) and down tons of shale rock with tricky switchbacks. I’ve never walked this in the rain, only in blazing heat (remember this part, Sterling?!). I was afraid of it being very slippery and the mud. I was optimistic though that the rain would end, we’d just wait it out and take it slow. However, the more time went on, the rain just kept on. Holly and I talked about it and decided since both of us have a bad knee, we would make a smart choice and taxi to the next town. To hell with getting blisters, twisting an ankle, or worse yet, re-rupturing my knee that feels so good these days. I mean, after all, Louise said God loves me so I didn’t have anything to prove nor did I need the “hill of forgiveness” to repent my sins! 😆🙏🏻. More good news, this rainy weather is over after today. It’s going to be 60’s-70’s for at least the next 10 days. Hallelujah. I’ve never been here with these temps. Best walking weather we could’ve asked for. While I know the decision today was the right one, I don’t feel very bad assy and I’m antsy to get in the groove. I’m not there yet, but now that I’m sleeping, the rain front has moved on, I feel tomorrow will be a great restart.
    We got to Puente la Reina, strolled around the town, walked over the queens bridge, bought some provisions for tomorrow’s walk, and went into a very special church that was actually quite impressive. Under the wide floorboards there were priests and other dignitaries buried. I felt wrong walking over the top of them but they were in the isle, and under the pews, so there was no avoiding them! They even had, encased in the alter, 16th century femurs and mandibles from San Pedro and San Pedro Eliza for who the church is named after. Crazy. The volunteer at the church was happy to see us visit and allowed us up the back staircase to where the very old organ was and a better view/photo of the retablo. We felt special to have the opportunity to go where most didn’t get to go! He stamped our credential with a beautiful stamp and we of course gave the church some coins. We also checked out a few of the restaurants menus here and decided on a place to eat later. The deciding factor for me was seeing Sopa de Ajo (garlic soup). Soup sounded good, I’ve been fighting a cold since Dallas, so I think this is just what my body needs.
    We are checked into our albergue and it’s so lovely and quirky! I’m in a room with 4 ladies, all very nice. Holly is in a room next to me and I can hear her chatting it up with another gal. I love the Camino, and this aspect of albergue’s where we have the opportunity to meet like-minded beautiful souls from all over the world. Such a rich experience already and we are literally just getting started.
    More tomorrow friends, love and miss you 😘
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