Spain Obanos

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  • Day 6

    Camino D6 Puente la Reina (Total 92KM)

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Started the day with a fab home made bfast, a la PP, eggs n jamon made in our apartment to set us up for 24km walk. 1st stop tape up a toe😬.. We hope it's not a sign of things to come! Was an uphill day all the way, the pinnacle of which is the Camino Pilgrims in metal. This was next to the memorial for a grave of many who died in the Franco times.. Hence the stone circle.. A very steep decent on stones, shingle like.. Probs due to erosion. Was not very easy.. We had many beautiful vistas today for which pics do not do justice.. Made it to the Jakue hotel.. Garden bar open duly attended🍻🍻 Fab day, long, sunny n warm conditions shorts all the way, but helped by the great bfast!Read more

  • Day 10

    Urtega to Lorca

    May 4 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 50 °F

    What a stunning day! My morning worship was walking through stunning fields of wheat and wildflowers: yellow mustard flowers, purple thistle blossoms, and bright red poppies. Birds were singing and bees were buzzing. I found myself singing "All things bright and beautiful" over and over.

    The first town I came to was Maruzabal, close by. It being Sunday, all the bars (with drinks, food, and restrooms) were closed up tight. But I was shocked to see most of the churches closed as well.

    The next town was Obanos. I could hear music as I entered town - it was the Spanish version of a mariachi band who were wandering all through town stopping in different squares and parks to play what sounded like a song of praise. The story is that William of Aquitaine lived here. His sister Felicia walked the Camino and came back determined to become a nun. It enraged her brother that she would turn her back on her royal lineage, and he killed her. Overcome with guilt, he walked the Camino and came back to found the church here, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista.

    Next was the ancient city of Puenta la Reina. The streets are so narrow! Very tall buildings (3 stories) right next to paved streets. It's scary walking when cars come careening through. The Iglesia de Santiago here was so serene, and it's becoming very meaningful to see statues of St. James encouraging the pilgrims.

    The road became more difficult up to Maneru, and I was glad to find a shaded square where I could relax on a bench by the fountain and catch my breath. I passed the lovely Iglesia de San Pedro and its cemetery. I love the idea that the whole town makes an event out of cleaning the headstone for All Saints, even laying flowers on each grave,

    An even steeper climb led to the very steep city of Cirauqui, whose name means "nest of vipers," perhaps because of bandits who used to lie in wait along the brutal road. Leading out of Cirauqui I traveled an ancient Roman road, its stonese worn smooth by 2,000 years f trravelers. There were ruts evident where wagon wheels had worn them. I crossed a Roman bridge before heading onto the rocky trail to Lorca.

    Lorca means "struggle," and the twn is aptly named for the trail to get there. It was a series of steep climbs both uphill and down. It was such a relief to finally arrive in town!

    I'm staying tonight at the Alberque del Lorca, which is an asolute treasure. The owner greeted me with a cld drink and sent me up to settle in and shower before I came down to check in. I had dinner with 3 Fenchmen, a German, a Norwegian, and 2 Brazilians. It was a huge, gorgeous salad and fall-apart pork cheeks with roasted potatoes. Several bottles of wine were also included. One of my roommates (four of us are sharing a room) is fom China and had never heard of a church community that actually loves and supports one another and whose lives are changed by their faith. It was fun to share with her about Incarnation.

    Well, it's 9:00, which is Camino bedtime. Good night!

    Steps: 33,948
    Miles: 14.40
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  • Day 9

    Pamplone to Urtega

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today I finally hit my stride! I walked alone so there was no pressure to keep a certain pace.

    The towns were well spaced out today and had incredible bathrooms. A word about bathrooms: many won't have toilet seats. Or toilet paper. And if they do, it's thin single-ply. It's very hard to get clean. And if you don't, there's chaffing. The struggle is real.

    Anyway, had a delicious orange juice and a croissant from Pamplona in Cizur Menor. It was a nice break. I sat next to a group of young, carousing Australians I've seen at each stop along the way, which was fun.

    From here the climb up became much steeper as we headed to Alto del Perdon, the hill of forgiveness, 2,526 feet up. It was so beautiful as we passed through wooded trails and open fields of waving wheat. It being Saturday, families were out walking the trails and dogs leapt through the tall wheat chasing rocks their people would throw for them.

    The next city we came to was Zuriquiegui. The Iglesia de San Andres was open so I went in. I'm so glad I did! The church was stunning, cool, and serene. The smell of incense filled the air and gentle music played, hushing the visitors. I spent a good while there just basking in God's strong presence. I'm so glad I did, as the peace I felt there stayed with me all day. I think I'm finding MY way of walking the Camino.

    The climb up to Alto del Perdon wasn't easy, but I kept going back to the blessing sung to us last night: "may God hold you in the palm of his hand." I felt lifted up by those words and made it to the top, slowly but steadily.

    And was it ever worth the climb! The statue of pilgrims throughout the ages was striking as it stood atop the wind-swept mountain and it was moving to photograph myself as part of their procession, a procession of hundreds of thousands over thousands of years. The inscription on the statue is "where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars." They also say that here at the top the wind blows away all your sins and burdens, setting you free. I certainly felt lighter coming back down.

    The way down was rough: straight down on loose rocks that threatened the knees and ankles. I crept along at my own pace, though, and made it just fine.

    My destination for the day was a sleepy little town called Urtega which is about 2/3 of the way down the mountain. Now I'm sitting in the sun-dappled garden of the most peaceful Albergue. The owner greeted me with a refreshing glass of mango juice and even carried my pack to my bed! Twenty-four of us will sleep in one room, which is quiet and intimate compared to many places. I'm enjoying a cold bee in a frosty glass and chatting with Hanz from Austria as I write this, my freshly washed laundry swinging in the breeze. We'll share a communal meal tonight which already smells divine. All in all, a wonderfully spirit-filled day.

    Steps: 29,992
    Distance: 12.63 miles
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  • Day 8

    Day 6 - Here comes the sun

    May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Puente La Reina to Estella
    22.9km
    After the almighty storms of yesterday the sun came out in force today. Initially it was pleasant but after lunch and late afternoon was uncomfortable in the high 20s.
    Today’s section was from Puente La Reina to Estella.
    Jacki Mylchreest from Te Awamutu spotted me in Citauqui, said hi, we got chatting, and next minute we’d spent the day together. It was lovely walking and chatting with Jacki and her sister Laurie.
    Today we were treated to lovely views across the farmlands, poppies, rapeseed, wheat, and all under blue skies and fluffy white clouds.
    The track varied from flat an pleasant, through to some puffing billy uphills, and my poor blisters were at times struggling with some rocks and loose stones.
    By the time I’d got to my alburgue I was well and truly ready for a shower. This alburgue in Estella is the best by far!
    Accumulated distance is now 126.0km
    The moment of the day was the surprise of bumping into Jacki and Laurie, it’s quite remarkable given all the variables.
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  • Day 9

    Day 9 Puente la Reina To Ayegui

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Day 9 Wednesday April 30 from
    Puente la Reina To Ayegui

    Left the Albergue at around 8am with a new friend Stephanie from Folsom, California. We figured that we walk the same pace so we agreed to leave at the same time. The sun was shining and weather was great. Today I decided to take my backpack with me instead of having it shipped to the next place. I thought that there wouldn’t be too many hills .. well I was wrong and we walked about 26.5 kilometres. The scenery was beautiful so green. What i am realizing is that when you walk you really appreciate the nature around you. Spain is beautiful! It was a long day snd we didn’t arrive to the Albergue till about 4:30. I was very tired by the end of the day!Read more

  • Day 4–5

    Trinidad de Arre - Obanos

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Start um 6.30 Uhr
    Rundgang und Frühstück in Pamplona
    Kauf brauchbarer Regenkleidung
    Mittagessen kurz vor dem Alto del Perdon
    die Taktik kurz vor oder nach dem eigentlichen Etappenziel zu übernachten geht voll auf -
    im Hostal Mamerto die einzigen Gäste
    25,9 in prallem Sonnenschein
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  • Day 6–7

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    April 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We were due for some rain today but it did not eventuate, however, the results of the last few days were apparent on parts of the path and I wasn’t paying attention. As I mentioned yesterday, I took some time taking care of housekeeping by way of laundry. After arriving at my accomm this afternoon I washed the same clothes again. Yep, took a tumble in the mud – and for those of you who might be pursing your lips and arching your eyebrows, I want to emphasise the fact that I fell over – I did not have a fall.

    And now for a Pyrenees update. This morning at breakfast, I ran into Zoe from Rotterdam who had been staying in the same accomm in St Jean. She walked to Orisson on her first day and then started from there to cross over to Roncesvalles on Saturday. While we had clear skies but a ferocious wind on Friday, Zoe and her fellow pilgrims copped rain, sleet and snow during their day on the Col de Lepoeder. She ended up in the same hut that I had been in the day before, except that she and her mates had to light a fire to stave off a bad outcome. They decided to make a run for it because they were so close to the top but they were the last ones to get through before the police closed the Napoleon route and turned people back towards St Jean. I met another guy today who made it to the border crossing but was turned back down the mountain and then had to arrange a ride to Roncesvalles via the Valcarlos route. If you take a look at the profile in Footprint 2, you can see both routes clearly marked. Apparently, there were lots of tears and disappointment from exhausted walkers, which I can completely understand, however, it is so easy to make a fatal mistake on that leg of the Camino.

    And now to today. Walking through Pamplona’s suburban streets to pick up the Camino, I came across a fellow pilgrim who was lost. He is the fabulously named; Lucky Sakamoto, from Guam. Lucky also got caught in the storm and was one of those who were turned back at the border – after walking up hill for 17kms! Anyway, we walked together until we were through the University and into a satellite town called Cizur Menor. The walk out of Pamplona is quite nice and not at all like Burgos and León. Ahead of us I could see Alto del Perdon, our major climb for the day. On either side of the path on the ascent, rolling fields of wheat and rapeseed surrounded us in green and gold. Along the ridge were so many wind turbines that I couldn’t count. When I first crossed in 2017, there were about forty, but today there looks to be easily three or four times that number stretching kilometres in either direction.

    Once at the top, I took a breather before walking to the other side of the ridge and looking down at the three small towns that lay ahead of me before reaching Puente la Reina. The path down to Uterga is very rocky and steep so that made things difficult but, it wasn’t as bad as the walk into Zubiri a few days ago. Once at the bottom, it was a pleasant walk for the rest of the day. Muruzábal, has a really nice Camino bar so I stopped there for a drink and I ran into Bill (West Wyalong) and Chris (Lismore). They are old school friends and are walking to Burgos for a few different reasons which I won’t expand on here but they are having a great time together. I left them at Obanos where they are staying, and soon after reached my accomm on the outskirts of Puente la Reina.

    All-in-all a great day on the Camino and tomorrow I’m looking forward to a more gentle transit to Estella.

    Buen Camino pingüinos.

    Distance today: 23.7 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 90.1 kms

    Click here to see Efren Gonzalez's video of his walk from Pamplona to Puente la Reina:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP9j9FiinD8&amp…
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  • Day 11

    Camino Day 7- Uterga to Puente la Reina

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    The history of the Cathedrals, Churches, and even the tiny Chapels is so interesting to me! It is hard to comprehend that most of them have been standing since BEFORE Christopher Columbus even discovered America!!! There are so many roads, bridges, and buildings that date back to the Romans. I can't help but wonder, "How did they do that? ", given the fact that they did not have modern-day equipment to lift TONS of rock... all done with blood, sweat, tears, and a whole lot of manpower! 💪🏻💪🏻 🤩Read more

  • Day 11

    Camino Day 6

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We woke up feeling a bit rough around the edges this morning, but nothing a good walk and a sense of denial couldn’t fix. Today was a nice, gentle 24.5km walk from Pamplona to Puente la Reina, 506m ascent, and 606m descent. In classic fashion, Dad and I managed to get lost while leaving the city, but a lovely local took pity on us and pointed us back in the right direction. We even managed to sneak in some tortilla and laughs with Aaron and Lisa during our journey. We can also tick seeing the Alto del Perdon off our bucket lists.Read more

  • Day 7

    Day 5 - Puente la Reina

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After a hot shower and freshening up, a walk around the pretty medieval town to explore.
    Just up from my BnB was the Church of Santiago the Great, with a huge bell tower meant to guide pilgrims to Puente la Reina. It has a massive doorway and inside is ornately decorated with sculptures and lots of gold.
    I saw the Church of the Crucifix dating back to the Templars, a very simple church with a fantastic doorway and only a large crucifix inside.
    I strolled down to the iconic bridge, which pilgrims have been using for almost a thousand years.
    A nice pilgrims dinner at a local bar afterwards for only 15€ including a Russian salad, roast partridge, a baked cheese flan, and a beer.
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