• PW and JKW's trips
  • Phil Woodford
  • PW and JKW's trips
  • Phil Woodford

Spain 2026

79-päiväinen seikkaillu — PW and JKW's trips & Phil Lue lisää
  • Birthday and beginning a new Camino

    17. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    We were up at 4:30 am to drink our all important coffee in the room, eat our yogurt and fruit and pack up. There were very few other passengers at 6:35 am on our train. As the route moved through lower terrain and out onto the Ebro River plain there were more and more passengers.

    At Zaragoza where we changed trains we were able to get our Senior Discount cards updated so I should be able to buy tickets online again without problems. We also bought tickets for tomorrow's trip.

    Tudela is a really neat town in the middle of a growing region of Spain. In fact, they are having the "vegetable" festival here starting tonight. Our hotel is next to the beer tent and kiddie rides so we may not get much sleep at all!

    We are in a Marriott property tonight. We try to stay in these due to getting points and free nights, especially when in Spain.

    At lunch we had our big meal. I thought I was ordering chicken on the grill, but it turned out to be some kind of fish. It was still good, but not what I expected. For supper we just went to the grocery store and had cheese, ham, and toast. Lunch is not served here until at least 1:30 or 2 pm so usually we are starving, but not that hungry for supper.

    Tomorrow we take a train to Castejon de Ebro at 7:10 where we will get off and start walking. It is only about 3.3 miles so we have plenty of time to walk in the cool morning. We hope to stay in a simple hostel that is staffed by volunteers like us. If they are not open, we'll stay in a hotel.
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  • Starting the Camino Ebro

    18. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    The crowd settled down, but we still didnt sleep well. At 4:30 we got up, showered, drank coffee and we were out the door to the train station before 6:30. One of the discos was just closing.

    Our train ride lasted 11 minutes and we were in Castejon which is in the Ebro River Valley surrounded by orchards and vineyards. We stopped and got our credential stamped at a local bar and then started walking.

    The weather was cool, but sunny. We met lots of people out for a cycle ride on a Saturday. The walk was about 3.75 miles which we walked in less than 2 hours.

    The albergue was not supposed to open until 1 pm, but the hospitalero who is from Canada let us in early. We've been shopping, done laundry, had lunch, and now it's time for a nap.
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  • Walk to Rincon de Soto

    19. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    The walk to the next small town ended being 13.46 km or 8.36 miles. The sun was shining, but it was in the high 60's by the time we reached Rincon de Soto. Phil rested a few times without his pack along the way and we rested on a park bench when we reached town. We saw so many different kinds of fruits and vegetables today!

    There's a festival going on today with some kind of "running out of the bulls" at 6 pm so we are going out to watch. I will add a video if I am able to see anything.

    We're in a nice room tonight with a kitchenette.
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  • A good walk and a free lunch

    20. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    We were on the Camino at 8 am today. So many different crops and things to see. The walk was completely flat until right before the end. Our lodging is on a steep hill.

    The hospitalero, Miguel, said he had been there for 12 years and he has opened a restaurant in the first floor. The albergue is like a small hotel. We have our own room with a private bath.

    Miguel told us to get showered and come down for lunch at 2 pm. He would not accept payment for the room since we had mentioned we were volunteer hospitaleros. I think it is 12 euros each per night but not sure.

    At lunch, his daughter came out and said her father had a surprise for us. He was gifting us the vegetable tasting menu today. He is an award winner for 2026 for farm to table meals. OMG it was good! 5 courses plus a dessert. I skipped dessert and just had a bite of Phil's.

    I am doing laundry now, but will try to arrange a taxi for at least part way tomorrow. It is about 12 miles which is too far for Phil. He's really doing great so I dont want to push too far.
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  • Alcanadre

    21. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    This morning we had breakfast at a Cafe and took a cab to a halfway point to our next town, Alcandre. The taxi driver left us at a rest area and we climbed through the fence to the Camino. I think he thought we were crazy!

    It worked out though and only about 6 miles later we were at our destination. The albergue was not open until 2 pm so we had a big noon meal and will eat light again for supper.

    Phil did fine. We stopped once and put on some of his muscle rub. He was able to go on after that.

    Tomorrow we will walk almost 9 miles which will be his furthest, but I think he will be fine. The walking is fairly easy. A few small hills today, but nothing too steep.
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  • Longest day yet

    22. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    It was really a long day for Phil. He needed to rest without his pack multiple times. We made it to our town, but this was our last walking day. We will go into Logroño tomorrow and then bus back to Pamplona Friday for a week of rest before we begin volunteering.Lue lisää

  • Travel days to Pamplona

    24. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We took a bus into Logroño and spent a free night at the AC Hotel. It is a Marriott business property and we have stayed there many times on Caminos over the last few years. Always comfy!

    We took the bus today to Pamplona and are in an apartment now for the next 6 nights before our volunteer service. We are in a residential neighborhood near the river and can see the Walls of Pamplona from the corner.

    We got in later than usual so we had Domino's pizza for supper. It is right around the corner!
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  • The Navarra Museum

    25. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    After a bit of a sleep-in and a load if laundry, we made another trip to the grocery store for some supper items and things we could not carry last night. We have 2 tiny folding backpacks and a grocery bag so there's not room for much!

    Today we walked up into Pamplona through the Portal of France. Pamplona has some fantastic walls which would have guarded the city. In addition, there are the remains of a star shaped fortress in the middle of town.

    As a pilgrim it's really a cool feeling to walk up through the gates and into Pamplona's old city. We remembered entering the city in 2016 the same way we did today.

    The museum was very interesting and it was free to enter today. There was a room of prehistory, up through the bronze age. Spain has many cave sites as well as other archeological sites. Phil and I also viewed the Roman exhibits and the Middle Ages exhibits, before calling it quits to walk home for lunch.
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  • Went to church today

    26. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Today we walked first to the train station (it took 23 minutes) and then we walked to the cathedral (back the way we came about 45 minutes). We were in time to hear a version of Terciera which is a musical time of prayer. Frankly the priests weren't very great at singing. Mostly they were off key.

    Everyone was better 30 minutes later when Mass started and with a rather big church crowd. The cathedral was quite large and beautiful.

    The weather is pretty and nice this week so walking was a pleasure.
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  • Haircut and beard trim

    27. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Phil needed another hair and beard trim before we start our volunteer service next week. We located several barbershops on Google Maps and in midafternoon when the other shops were closed, we found a shop run by an immigrant which was open. While Phil got a haircut and beard trim, I watched videos of gangster rappers in turbans on the TV in the corner.

    The full barber service cost only 15 euros and took only 2 gangster rap songs. The barber did a great job and called me over to make sure it all met with my expectations. I tore myself away from the AK waving rappers and gave my approval.

    Afterwards we found an open bar run by Asian immigrants with signs outside not to use drugs on the terrace. Overall the neighborhood seems pretty quiet and I think we're pretty safe.
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  • Exploring the Pamplona fortress

    28. huhtikuuta, Espanja

    Today we made an effort to explore the Pamplona Fortress. It is in a large park close to the bus station, but outside of the old town. The fortress is huge and was built by Phillip II 1541 and was completed in 1646. It is a star shaped fortress with a huge moat, several drawbridges, and a large central interior. It was turned over to the city of Pamplona in 1964 and is now used as a park and exhibit area.

    We walked around half the moat. Then came up into the fortress. There was a memorial to more than 300 people killed by firing squad here during the Spanish Civil War.

    It was a great walk around the city. We also found another large park we had been unaware of before. I think pilgrims walk right through without really knowing a thing.

    Tomorrow we are meeting a person from Prague at the train station to transfer Phil's walking poles. They will get one more Camino! He got them in Santiago as donation poles from Pilgrim House. Hopefully they will walk more Caminos if this person also donates them back.
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  • Hiking poles have a new owner

    29. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Phil had sourced a set of used hiking poles when we were in Santiago from Pilgrim House, a donation based support center for pilgrims. At PH, you can discuss your journey either 1:1 with a trained debriefing or you can participate in a group debrief. PH also provides a place to do laundry, use the internet, print plane tickets and other documents and a host of other services.

    Anyway, pilgrims often leave sets of hiking poles in Santiago at Pilgrim House rather than trying to ship them home in luggage. Two different years, Phil has been able to pick up a nice used set. We leave a donation of course, but it was a big savings and kept the poles from going to the landfill.

    Today we met Tina, a young woman from Prague, at the train station and gave her the poles for her Camino. She had contacted me through the online forum we participate in about the Camino. I had posted a photo of the poles and indicated when we'd be in Pamplona to transfer the poles to someone.

    Tina also needed to get a pilgrim credential (a booklet that shows you are a pilgrim so you can stay in albergues). We walked with her from the train station up to one of the albergues that provided credentials.

    Tina was trying to decide whether to start walking today or whether to stay in Pamplona tonight when we said goodbye. Although there was still a half day left for walking, rain was also forecast. Either way, we wished her well. She plans to walk for 2 weeks. Lots of Europeans, and especially people who can only get 2 weeks a year off, walk the Camino in little pieces. Two weeks this year, two weeks next year, etc.

    We are packing up our Pamplona apartment. Tomorrow we get our rental car and go to the albergue. One of the nuns contacted me today to say that our suitcase arrived from Santiago by courier so we'll be reunited with our Spanish school homework when we arrive tomorrow. We are supposed to be there in time for a 1:30 pm lunch with the sisters.
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  • Zabaldika

    30. huhtikuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Phil and I packed up and made it to the car rental place by 10 am. We have a little tan 4 door car of a brand I am not familiar with. It is a 6 speed manual so we stuttered along at first until Phil remembered the way to drive a manual. We arrived at the albergue about 11 am.

    The current hospitaleros are Spanish and have been here several times. Jose Luis, the male part of the team, is in charge of a couple of albergues over on the Ebro where we walked a few weeks ago and knows the Canadian hospitalero, Paul.

    They've had between 2 and 20 pilgrims per day so far. At this albergue the nuns are in charge of the spiritual care of pilgrims. The hospitaleros do the cooking, cleaning, and generally take care of the pilgrims' physical needs. There are 18 beds total.

    We made a trip to the grocery store to get a few things because tomorrow is a holiday. Then we all had lunch together with the sisters, Mari Sol, Mari Sun, and Barbara as a send off for Jose Luis and his wife, Charro. Tonight is their last night and we will start tomorrow. The sisters ordered a catered lunch of roast lamb and potatoes with salad and croquettes. Yum!

    More about the workings of the albergue in the next few days.
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  • We are in charge!

    1. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    A lovely hand-off by Charro and Jose. They have been volunteering in albergues for 30 years and they do up to 5 each year!

    Last night we had 5 pilgrims. One didn't arrive until almost dark. 2 Germans, 2 French, 1 American.

    One of the German pilgrims encountered a jaballi on the trail yesterday (wild pig). Its been hanging around the neighborhood apparently and the local dogs dont like him one bit!

    This morning we did our cleaning chores and I have been cooking all morning. I like to have things on hand because you dont know if you will have 5 ot 18 pilgrims for supper. Tonight vegetable soup, deviled eggs and salad with marinated lentils.

    We open at 2:30 and we dont take reservations. First come, first served. We serve breakfast and supper.
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  • Full the first day!

    2. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    This is one of the busiest times on the Camino (the first 2 weeks of May). Last night we were full by 6 pm. I prepared dinner for 20 people and almost everything was eaten !

    Today we went to the grocery store. It was pouring rain when we got home and rather than let pilgrims wait in the rain, we opened a little early.Lue lisää

  • Rain continues

    3. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Yesterday the pilgrims arrived literally in dribs and drabs. It was pouring rain much of the afternoon. The albergue was filled with wet ponchos. A few pilgrims had nothing dry so the sisters had authorized use of the dryer. This dryer is non-vented so it doesn't dry clothes as fast or as well as one like we have at home with higher heat. We have to carefully empty the water tank where the water collects.

    Last night we had 17 pilgrims. One couple arrived in the rain at the end, but we didnt have 2 beds. A Spanish person had taken pity on them and drove them here, so Phil asked if he could take them on to the next albergue less than 2 miles away. No problem.

    We had 11 countries represented at supper. The stories here are amazing. A woman from Ukraine whose daughter was killed in the war is walking for comfort in helping her cope. A Puerto Rican man walking with only shorts because long pants are too heavy to carry. People walking for deceased parents. Others just making sense of the world.

    Again the sisters are so kind. We are happy to be here.
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  • More rain, fewer pilgrims

    4. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    It continued to rain yesterday much of the day. Still pilgrims struggled up the hill in the mud to visit the church all morning. By noon, the numbers slacked off a little and at 1:30 it began a real downpour. We let 4 pilgrims in who were relatively dry as they had been sheltering in the church. Sister Mari Sol brought them over with an umbrella. Then just at 2:30 a pilgrim from Canada struggled up the hill. Water was pouring from her backpack. She'd lost her pack cover in a gale crossing the Pyrenees the day before. And then no more pilgrims for the day. It was a cozy group of 5 from Canada, US, Holland, S Korea, and Argentina/Spain.

    We had some leftover soup and chicken pesto for supper. Then at the prayer service the pilgrim from the US sang for us. She is a professional opera singer and the notes rang out beautifully as she lifted her voice a capella.

    More rain forecast today. I will go with one of the nuns to the restaurant supply store for wine, butter, jelly, etc. this morning. Phil can stay home and rest his back a little.
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  • Wild pigs and other happenings

    5. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I dont have photos of the jaballi (wild pigs), but their damage is evident. Sr Mari Sol drove one off from the church yard with a stick yesterday (a smaller one). The neighborhood dogs were hazing a larger male earlier in the day, too. Its the talk of the village. We have not seen them, but there are obvious signs of their presence.

    Yesterday 17 pilgrims, so not quite full. It was another rainy day so pilgrims were glad to have a dry bed.
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  • Finally a sunny day!

    7. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We've had rain every day but today. It was chilly when we woke up at 38 F! Heating oil is very expensive but the Sisters do have us turn the heat on when it is super cold. Even just 15 minutes can make a difference. The walls are about 3 feet thick and some are from Roman times.

    Charles the Great came through here in the mid 800's. Napoleon was defeated here at the battle of Zabaldika later. Now the church is kept alive with visits from pilgrims, the Sisters of the Sacred Heart, and other local volunteers.

    Last night we had 9 pilgrims. There are people waiting for us to open today. Phil is resting after our big shop at the restaurant supply store.

    The wild pig continues to make a mess of things, but Sr. Marisol is actively putting to right with her pick ax and shovel. She is 84, I think.
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  • Super busy!!!

    9. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Sorry I haven't pasted for a couple of days. We've been very busy with pilgrims. Our time is drawing to a close here in a week and we're going to be going home May 18. More as I have time...

  • Sunday again!

    10. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We are here 5 more days. One replacement coming Thursday to get the flow of things. The other on Friday. We leave here Saturday the 16th and will turn in our car at 10 am. Our flight is late evening from Pamplona to Madrid where we have 2 nights to decompress before we fly home.

    Its been a busy week. Lots of pilgrims, all with unique stories. People with disabilities. People walking with almost overwhelming grief. All find a little peace here with the Sisters and the albergue.

    Today is Sunday and Phil reminded me that it's Mother's Day at home so a special wish for a good day to my Mom and to Chris, my step-mom, and to all the rest of you Mom's, too.
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  • Local police know us well!

    12. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We've had the local police show up twice in one day. The Guardia Civil is a national force and one of their missions is to patrol the Camino and keep people safe. Yesterday they were here twice. Once to get the passport that a New Zealand pilgrim accidentally lost here and take it to him. The other time was to take a police report. A pilgrim was missing more than 1,600 euros in cash (nearly $2,000).

    The missing money might have been stolen while the pilgrim was in the shower. He left his bag unattended two different days when he showered. Or it could have accidently dropped out of his pack as the money was in a bank envelope. Either way the family of four was now without all their spending money for the Camino. Pretty devastating!

    The police are super kind and very professional. They took careful notes and will go back to all the points the pilgrim had been. He'd been using a credit card so he hadn't actually seen the envelope since he took a larger note from it 2 days ago so it could have been lost or stolen at almost any time.

    Sometimes thieves pretend to be pilgrims to prey on others. If this is the case, then I hope the person or persons will quickly be caught.
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  • It happened again!

    13. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Police were here again today. Another pilgrim with a lost or stolen wallet. This time the pilgrim knew exactly where he'd last seen the wallet. Although it's possible that he just lost it, it seems more likely that it was taken while he was distracted. I hope the police can put a quick end to this!Lue lisää

  • Handoff complete and off to Madrid

    16. toukokuuta, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We made a handoff to the new hospitaleros, Rafael and Sylvia. He is from Spain and she from France. Phil and I have the advantage of working always with a teammate we know well. These two have to develop a rhythm quickly and divide the tasks. We had a wonderful 15 days and the Sisters have invited us back any time.

    Yesterday on our last day it was cold and even snowing further up the valley. Sr. Marisol asked us to open at 12:15 and to feed 6 pilgrims something warm. This was right before a special meal they planned for us as a kind of Hail and Farewell for the new hospis and for us. And so I heated up all the leftover soup, put out a little leftover salad, bread, and hummus and left the 6 pilgrims in the albergue until after our lunch with the Sisters.

    It was a busy, rainy day of showing the new hospis the ropes and welcoming 14 pilgrims. At the evening prayer service, Phil and I were asked to close us in song so we lead a rousing few verses of Do Lord which brought on clapping in time.

    We've served more than 190 pilgrims from 28 countries this 15 days. What a blessing and gift to ourselves it has been. We're tired, but happy.

    We turned in our rental car near the train station and had 2 cups of coffee and some snacks. We taxied to the airport. Its small, but comfortable so we'll fly out to Madrid tonight at about 10 pm. A day of rest at a luxury hotel in Madrid and then home on Monday.
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    Matkan lopetus
    19. toukokuuta 2026