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Combined sightseeing, pilgrimage, and volunteer trip もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    11

    Planes, trains, and automobiles

    2月1日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    We made it to Chicago! We left Gainesville, MO, on Friday morning and drove to Kansas City. After a visit with my parents and a haircut, we drove to my brother's house to spend the night.

    Early Saturday, we caught the Southwest Chief train to Chicago. Phil's father used to work for Santa Fe Railroad before the initiation of Amtrak, so Phil has many memories of the Kansas City Union Station when it was his father, Woody's, office and place of business. There were some neat old photos of the station in it's strictly railroad days. We waited in the room for our train with the same wooden benches that were there in the glory days.

    The train trip was long but smooth. We were not crowded, and the price was right at $180 for the two of us.

    We're staying at a Marriott property tonight, and we'll use the shuttle to the airport tomorrow. I probably won't post again until we get to Rome on Monday so stay tuned.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Arrived at Cinque Terre

    2月8日, イタリア ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    Yesterday was a long travel day. We left Pompeii by train, and it took 4 train segments to get up north here to our new spot at Cinque Terre.

    No travel troubles this time, but our packs were extra heavy because the landlord in Cinque Terre had warned us all the shops would be closed when we arrived. We were carrying not only our lunch but also our supper!

    It was quite dark when we arrived so we could not see much. I was here twice in 2002, but Phil has not been here. We are in the village of Manarola perched on a cliff on the Ligurian coast in Italy. Magical!

    Our host is an eclectic young man who grew up here but has apparently traveled. He owns his family home and two other apartments. We are staying in the Open Heart AIRBNB. Jvan, our host, met us at the train station. He wears clothing similar to a Tibetan monk. He led us through a maze of narrow pathways up the steep village.

    The apartment is decorated with sea murals, and while not the most contemporary, it has a charm about it. The best part is the view we woke up to this morning.

    We had some planned some hiking, but it is chilly and a little rainy. The path is pretty slick, so instead, we'll catch the train to see the other four villages today and maybe eat a lunch out. We've been eating in to save money and keep us from eating too many calories, but we deserve a meal out on the coast. The big meal here is served between 1 pm and 2 pm.

    More tomorrow or tonight!    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Cinque Terre in the rain Day 1

    2月8日, イタリア ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    It was a rainy day, but we did not let that stop us from getting out. We got lost first thing this morning walking back from the grocery store. We arrived in the dark last night, and the streets are like a maze with no rhyme nor reason to the numbering system. Google Maps is no help whatsoever. We wandered all around in the rain, going up and down the steep hillside streets with our groceries. We finally found pur place again.

    After breakfast, I washed out some socks and underwear by hand. When you only have three pairs of undies, you must wash at least every two days!

    We bought two Cinque Terre cards which entitiled us to two all day tickets (for 2 full days) on the train and use of the clean train station bathrooms (normally 1.50 each use) and wifi, bus tickets, hiking trails and more! We only used the train and bathrooms today.

     We decided today would be our splurge meal day. The next train out of the station was to the town of Riomaggiore. We selected the restaurant with the top Google rating that was off the beaten path and really went for it! We shared an appetizer of anchovies prepared three ways. Phil then had a main dish of Sea Bass with potatoes, tomatoes, olives, and a bright little salad. I had the pasta of the region with the seafood of the region. We shared a tiramisu for dessert. Let me say we have never had anything like these dishes, and they were all delicious!

    After lunch, we hopped back on the train and went to another small village. We walked around and found a tourist shop that sold little cheese graters that I could use to zest my lemons as well as grate cheese. After a late afternoon cappuccino, we are back in our apartment and will have a light supper.

    It rained lightly all day, but it did not dampen our spirit of adventure or our enthusiasm. Tomorrow we will visit the other two small towns. I think it will rain again, but we are really thankful for the lack of tourist crowds. It is still beautiful even in the rain.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Cinque Terre day 2

    2月9日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    This morning, we got up and walked in the rain up the street of Manarola (our village) and found the church. Mass was just starting, so we attended. It was a small crowd, but lively. The music was a man playing the guitar and leading the singing. There were also two altar boys (possibly twins and for certain brothers). They looked to be in grade school. A grandmother-looking woman was coaching them with hand signals from the congregation.

    In the end as they processed out, one boy dropped the communion cloth from the chalis as he was carrying it out and the other narrowly avoided dropping the glass vials of holy water as the priest reached in for the save. Phil commented that they must still be in training or were perhaps the only young boys in the tiny community. The priest was unflappable and took it all in stride.

    We stopped for a few groceries and then had lunch back at the apartment before heading out to the towns of Vernazza and Corniglia. We took a photo down by the harbor in Vernazza near the spot that Mom and Mike took one 23 years ago!

    At Corniglia, we were glad to have our two day passes, which allowed us to ride the bus up and down instead of hiking up the 355 steps in the rain.

    Finally, back at Manarola, we had our first Italian gelato. I don't usually eat sweets, so Phil finished half of mine.

    Tomorrow, we are back on the train heading for two nights in Florence. We are excited that we'll have an actual washing machine since we have several days of wear on our current clothes.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    On our way to Florence

    2月10日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The sun peeked out a bit today before we left Cinque Terre. Phil and I checked out at 10 a.m., and our host kept our bags while we went for a coffee and roll.

    It was a long train ride. Phil likened it to the old Grand Canyon Express, which he remembered, stopped at every station between Kansas City and where his uncle lived in California. He remembered it took 2 days in hard wooden benches. His mother packed a hamper of food and picked out seats that faced each other so he and his 2 bothers could not escape her watchful eye.

    Anyway, it didn't take 2 days to get to Florence, only about 4 hours, but we did stop at every little town. One was Carrara, where Italian Carrera marble counter tops come from. We passed the quarries and some processing plants on the trip.

    We met 3 women from England out on a 4-day getaway. They each had suitcases that could have held both our backpacks plus two more! Nice ladies, though.

    In Florence, we had to walk in a light rain to find our apartment. It was about 5 pm when we arrived. We are on the 4th floor. Phil counted 74 steps. Tomorrow , we have tickets to see the Michelangelo statue of David at 10 am. We will see what comes next.
    We are only here 2 nights, so we will make the most of tomorrow.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain
    1

    A whirlwind day in Florence

    2月11日〜12日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    After we arrived yesterday, Phil and I went to the grocery store at the worst possible time! The stores in the city are small and crowded, but I was able to find provisions and prepare a decent supper of pasta with pesto and lemon chicken breast.

    Today, we went first to a print shop to print out tickets for the Galleria della' Academia. I had purchased a timed entry to see the Michelangelo statue of David. The place was mobbed, and people who did not have a timed entry were waiting outside for there to be room inside. It was a really cool art museum. There were paintings from the 13th century as well as sculptures from the Renaissance.

    We used the free bathrooms before we left and then walked all around Florence. We went to one of the big markets at San Lorenzo. There were leather vendors outside and inside all kinds of food stalls. As a child, I have a memory of my father and I following a man with a cow's head on his shoulder into the market. I recall all manner of animals and fowl hanging up for sale. This market had lots of stuff, but was more touristy. The top floor was places to eat. Tomorrow, we'll visit another market that our host says is more authentic.

    We walked until about 1 pm and then came back for lunch and a rest. Our hostess came by with some new silverware. In the later afternoon, Phil and I went on a treasure hunt of sorts. Our tiny fold up backpack finally gave out after 8 years. We sourced a replacement. We also found Phil a new plastic cup to replace the one that was crushed when we flew over. We also found my instant coffee con leche packets for when we start walking our pilgrimage in 2 days.

    Now we're back at the apartment. Tomorrow we take the train to Lucca.

    There are so many tourists here, and it is only February! Lots of American University students in every store!    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    In Lucca and officially pilgrims

    2月12日, イタリア ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    We spent the morning in Florence. We went to another marketplace looking for the cow's head butcher counter, but apparently, that is no longer a thing.

    We walked to the train station in the rain with our pilgrimage rain ponchos and rode 90 minutes to Lucca. Again, it was raining, so we crossed the city wall and walked to the cathedral to get our credential or official pilgrim passport for the next 9 days' journey. We are officially pilgrims on the Via Francigena. Then we walked another mile or two to our room for the night.

    We'll step across the road to the grocery store and get some supper as well as supplies for breakfast and lunch. It is supposed to rain again tomorrow.

    Our destination tomorrow is Altopascio. We have been told the walk is not that beautiful through high traffic and urban areas. We will see. It is about 10 miles, and we need to check in between 3 and 4 pm. Tomorrow, we are at a typical pilgrim establishment (bunk beds and shared bathrooms). It is donation based.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Lucca to Altopascio

    2月13日, イタリア ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The weather was perfect for walking today. There was no rain, and although it started chilly, the sun came out. We were able to shed our coats. Today's route was through mostly urban and industrial areas.

    The low point of the day was when we came to a roadwork closure with no sure-fire way around except to walk a couple of extra miles. On a chance, we walked down a farm lane and took a kids' muddy bike track over an earthen dyke. Amazingly, there was a driveway with a bridge over the stream, and we saved ourselves several miles backtracking.

    We stopped for coffee twice. We also stopped for a stamp at a museum, and the person who "logged" us in let us use the bathroom, too. We were the first pilgrims since Feb 6.

    About 4 miles from the end, it appeared we would not make it for checkin. Phil just could not walk faster, so I went on ahead and checked us in. He came about an hour after I did.

    This "ostello" is donation based. We left 50 euros for a bed, a place to shower, and there is a microwave and fridge so we can have breakfast in the morning. A volunteer came and checked us in. There are only 3 beds and only the two of us tonight.

    There is a laundromat next door and a restaurant on the corner. Tomorrow's walk is only 14.5 km or 9 miles. We don't have to be there at 3 pm, so that will make for a quieter day.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Rain, cold. Took a bus part way!

    2月14日, イタリア ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    Last night, we did our laundry and then went out for supper. There was a place called the B&B Spaghetti House right across the courtyard. In Italy, as in Spain, restaurants don't serve supper until 8 pm. We went in and were told it was too early for supper.

    We decided to order a glass of wine, and the server asked us if we'd like some prosciutto ham, too. It was served with warm bread. The server sliced the ham for us, and it was good and salty. The chef arrived and asked where we were from. We introduced ourselves, and he commented it was early in the season for pilgrims.

    After talking to the server, he came over and said it would be OK to eat early ( I guess we looked really hungry). Phil ordered the fresh pasta with Tuscan ragu (a meat sauce with tomato), and I ordered the pirata, which is pasta with a sauce made of oil, olives, red pepper, and tomatoes. Both were delicious, and we were very hungry. Then Phil ordered some kind of dessert with chocolate sauce. Again, it's very tasty!

    It rained all night and was still raining when we left. It rained and even hailed on us little. We were walking through a park-like area and came upon some fallen trees and a stream that was flooding. My guess is that normally, you can just step across, but this was too wide, swift, and deep for that now.

    We had to bushwack across a field and wade through more water. I detoured to what looked like a farm road, and soon we were wading uphill through the running water.

    We finally reached a town and were sad to see with all the detours and flooding, we'd walked only 2 miles in 2 hours. We went into a bar and ordered coffee and pastries. A nice lady who was glad to see American Pilgrims paid our tab.

    Then back out in the rain with ponchos on. I was able to route us to a quieter side road, but there was no shoulder to walk on, so it was dangerous even with the rural traffic.

    We stopped in the next town for coffee again with 4 miles to go. It was either walk through natural areas that were flooded or walk on the busy main highway. Of course, it was still pouring down rain...

    I checked online, and there was supposed to be a bus at 2:18 pm to the town we needed. We waited, and as we were leaving, the bar maid told us to come back if the bus didn't work out, and she would help us find a ride. In the afternoon the bar was filled with older men playing cards. One walked out with us, and I think it was telling us it was too dangerous to walk on the road.

    We waited patiently in a downpour. It was getting colder, and when the bus arrived, I could not figure out how to pay at the side door. The bus lunched forward anyway, and I walked to the front seat. I tried to tell the driver where we needed to go, and since we were the only people on the bus, he dropped us as close as he could and reassured me that it was a small town. I tried to pay our fare, but he just waved me off and said good luck.

    We are now thawing and drying out in our little room for the night. We have a heater and even a heated towel rack in the bathroom. It is supposed to stop raining and be sunny tomorrow. Fingers crossed. There are no photos today except last night's dinner due to the driving rain and hail all day.    もっと詳しく

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  • Trip to Italy and Spain

    Cold, windy, but sunny

    2月15日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    We had a good supper at a pizzeria near our room last night. It finally stopped raining, but it was cold.

    Our boots and clothes dried out by morning, thanks to a towel heater in our bathroom. We started walking at about 8:30 am. It was brisk at 44F, but it felt like 39F due to a chilly wind.

    After yesterday's flooding, it seemed great! We decided NOT to take the scenic area by the river anticipating mud. We walked into Fucecchio and found a popular coffee shop for our first break.

    As we walked on we did end up on a dyke next to the River Arno and then into San Miniato Basso. We had several detours due to construction again and had to backtrack, which made our route longer.

    We stopped for a sandwich around noon and felt good that our apartment was nearby (we thought.😖 we found ourselves at the foot of a steep hill. It appeared there was an elevator to take us part of the way, but that was a cruel trick. The elevator was out of order, and we had to climb a steep set of open stairs several stories high. I am afraid of heights, and that last climb was pure fear and adrenaline!

    We arrived at the top to our lovely apartment. We walked around the town, took photos, and had a snack. I will cook some supper in the apartment tonight. We were also able to wash our muddy clothes from yesterday.

    We have to carry food for tomorrow since we are not near a town in a rural country house with a hot tub tomorrow.    もっと詳しく

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