• Ah yes I'll have simple breakfast at typical restaurant pleaseCave shrine. Is this cultural appropriation (we didn't even ask for it!)World Peace PagodaTreegretsLike a bat outta hell...

      Day 35: Pokhara

      24 april 2024, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      It's at this point in the blog that I must confess that the footprints dried up at the time of our travels.

      I LOVE writing these recounts, my scattered scrawlings on this app are frankly sacred to me, but the reality is sadly that preparing a simple FindPenguins footprint can be so exhausting on a long trip, especially when battling erratic illnesses and the scorching heat of the Nepalese dry season. I also didn't want the quality of our posts to wane, and so I simply left you all hanging in Pokhara, probably scratching your heads as to whether your humble heroes, tarty Thomas and juicy JJ, ever made it out alive. But fret not. In this EXCLUSIVE update, Jensen returns with his post-match interview, updating the blog with oldfound clichés and a newfound sparkle. As a result, everything written from hereon in comes approximately a year on from the time of the eccentric events. While some details will inevitably have been lost to the sands of time, others will have marinated in the salty brine of nostalgia, and all details have been verified with historical records (i.e. unfortunately I get angry messages from Thomas when I try to just make stuff up.)

      Day 35: Pokhara
      After Thomas had been fighting for his life on the porcelain throne the previous day, he overcame the wrath of his own gut and returned to action with a vengeance. And how better to celebrate than taking a head-spinning taxi ride up the spaghetti-ing roads to the World Peace Pagoda, a gleaming stupa sitting like a giant scoop of vanilla ice cream overlooking 360° views of mountains, lakes, and your own existential insignificance.

      As was to become a bit of a sticking point though, we were now at the height of the Nepalese dry season. Ok - so, sticky, but not just that. It gets so unbelievably hot that wildfires ravage the land and bellow out thick smogs which obscure otherwise awe-striking views out in every direction, including in this case to the chunky Annapurna range, headed by the farcical Fishtail mountain. Dubbed the Matterhorn of Nepal, the dramatic rise of its unclimbed double headed summit would've been a sight to behold; all 6,993 m of its glaciated rock revels in religious significance, sanctified as the home of Lord Shiva.

      Shiva, by the way, wasn't too far away in another sense; the zealous blue statue of the giant god keeps watch from his seat on Pumdikot hill, butting proverbial heads in the skyline with his religious counterpart - the glowing golden Buddha statue of the peace pagoda.

      After savouring the silence and seclusion, we then descended upon the waters of Fewa lake, tumbling through thick vegetation as exotic birdsong punctuated our knee-knackering decline. At the water's edge, we decided to stop for some breakfast; this is where I ordered something that still cracks me up to this day: a dish called 'simple breakfast' from a place which calls itself 'typical restaurant'. Hmm... something about these names seems a liiittle suspicious to me, but naturally I had no choice but to introduce myself as mister 'classic customer'.

      Fast forward through some boating bits, more taxis and ice cream, and we rocked up at Mahendra cave in north Pokhara. This was where we felt another unfortunate consequence of our Caucasian-ness; we'd become used to shaking off swathes of Nepalese 'guides' over the past few weeks, but in our weary state and with the undeterred pleadings of one persistent and peculiar man, we caved in (pun intended), agreeing that he could show us around for a modest fee. Admittedly, it became immediately apparent that this would be a terrible idea, as he and a bunch of his instantly appearing chums led us down a precarious, narrowing side tunnel of the cave system. We straddled through the dark passageways, our lives blindly trusted to these money-hungry men as we followed on, planting our hands on the guano-caked rock and navigating cavernous drops.
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    • Rocking out to Dire Straits
      Fewa lakeCavemanOn the lakeYou can call me muscles

      Day 34: Pokhara

      23 april 2024, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Day 34: Pokhara
      Strap in, because we might have *one or two* updates to share since the last post. Our first full day in Pokhara was a shaky one, with Thomas sidelined with his own battle in the bowels, leaving me to explore the city on my lonesome. As a result, I set out for Gupteshwor Mahadev cave, taking a picturesque stroll all along the touristy lakeside and through a jumble of alleyways in the heat. It was interesting to observe the nuanced feel of a city like Pokhara, with its wide boulevards and generally much more tourist-friendly laid-back ambience compared to Kathmandu. After about an hour or so, I finally reached my chosen caves, and followed the swathes of locals down into the recesses of the earth. And the visitors all seemed to be locals too, rather I didn't see a single identifiable tourist other than Nepalis visiting in pilgrimage to some religious cave shrine.

      As you descend the stone steps into the cave and the passages start to narrow, you do start to think: is this even safe? I'm alone here, following people into a very snug dark cave. Still, it wasn't all that far down to the bottom, and at its lowest point you could make out natural light, in fact, it was daylight spilling down underground from a waterfall above. The waterfall was called Devi's falls, named after a Swiss woman who had drowned there in the 60s, and I took a quick detour to gander at its crashing waters from above ground too. After dawdling around the surrounding pleasant gardens and messing about with novelty picture opportunities, I rode a taxi back to our hotel in the heavy heat.

      In the afternoon, Thomas was feeling much perkier, and with the sun setting amid the haze, we took full advantage by setting out on a kayak ride across the lake. We spent a good couple of hours soaking in the idyllic conditions of the perfectly still Fewa lake as I rowed us 5 km to its distant shore and back, all the while Thomas of course revelling in his kingfisher sightings. It was a hell of a lot of fun, and upon returning to shore, the dude who rented us the kayak offered us drugs because he didn't have change for our thousand rupee note (lol). Declining as the killjoys we are, the evening fun was still in full flow as we were drawn into a bar by the rock sounds of a live band on the lakeside stroll back to our hotel. They might've been carried by the (Pink Floyd shirt-wearing) guitarist but damn, they were great, and we monged out to some rock over a beer, which peaked with a flawless rendition of Sultans of Swing by Dire Straits. Jamming out for many more hours than we'd anticipated, we then staggered back to the hotel, loading up on obligatory chocolate on the way.
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    • A taste of Pokhara Lakeside
      The sun sets🤓Grown man begs for picture with Disneyland signI eat a burgerThomas poses with some less goofy characters

      Day 33: Kathmandu to Pokhara

      22 april 2024, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

      Pokhara is Nepal's second city, and at 200 km from the capital, you'd be forgiven for thinking it'd be a relatively brisk bus journey from Kathmandu. But no, this is Nepal after all, and the result of the country's crumbling infrastructure was another 9 hour sit-fest on turbulent public transport. Still, we had managed to get a decent price for our tickets with the help of my hardline negotiator philosophy (If Thomas is good cop, then at least I get to play bad cop (i.e just be a bad person as usual, if you can call it that when tempting a Nepalese bus man out of a few hundred rupees.))

      The reality of the Kathmandu-Pokhara connection's shortcomings, though, lie in one fatal flaw: roadworks. The entire route is mired in dusty disarray, whole chunks of road otherwise chopped up, churned inside out, or straight up neglected. It's like if the only connection between London and Birmingham was to drive on the HS2 tracks - while they were still being built - except according to some sources online, a bit like if HS2 had been being built since literally the dawn of time (so basically, pretty much the same as what HS2 now is anyways.) Besides my strange HS2 aside there, we stopped only at what can be described as a roadside services (but not as you imagine it) to tuck into a festering buffet style Nepalese lunch, while I snacked by continuing my craze for cheese balls (crisps, not my poor personal hygiene) and coke (cola, not the class A drug I'd been offered the previous night in Kathmandu.)

      It had been relatively late once we finally unloaded from the taxi to our Lakeside hotel in Pokhara, a city we would later come to love. We then feasted on some dinner in our continued state of then-trek-hangover, before wandering out to gander at Disneyland Pokhara. Yes, you read that right, Disneyland Pokhara! A wild theme park with, name-aside, an uncanny lack of resemblance to literally anything to do with Disney, and rides which were about as child friendly as battery acid, including a Ferris wheel that span so fast it probably had a Euthanasia setting. We loved it all the same! And with that, we waddled back our room where fate would have Thomas about to philosophise the meaning of a stable stomach (it hadn't been a good few days of stomach security for him, see next...)
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    • Days 31 - 32: Kathmandu

      21 april 2024, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Right, this blog is slightly in ruins but we will persist anyways. After returning to Kathmandu from our trek, we planned on taking a day to take it easy. And take it easy is exactly what we did: chill out a bit, kick back, order too much food at the restaurant across the street, that sort of thing. Munch down some chocolate. Though I should specify, that's only what *I* did. Thomas had come down with some sort of strange ailment where every time he stood up, he threw up. Yes, really, strange I know, and not a lot of fun for him, but hey, if it were to happen anywhere then at least it was here, where being horizontal was at the top end of the plans we'd made anyway. The second day was a little more productive on my behalf, sorting out some chores, (laundry, restocking, that sort of thing) during which every salesman on the street either tried to sell me cocaine, heroin or some sort of magnetic chess set (I think people tend to judge my character quite differently). Thomas was a little more sprightly this day too, and even joined for a couple of excursions.Läs mer

    • Jeep stops and cheese balls
      11 in the jeepKathmandu returnsIce cream somewhere near DhulikhelHot! It got much hotter as we descended down to 300 m above sea levelSumptuous fruit

      Days 29 - 30: Paiya to Kathmandu

      19 april 2024, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Day 29: Paiya to Salleri
      So let's pick up where we last left off. This entry is very much going to be about one mode of transport: the jeep. Now, we'd just finished our trek to Everest Base Camp. We'd planned to ride the jeep back to Salleri (where the actual 'paved' road begins and thus might get a bus back to Kathmandu from there) but figured it'd be too late to happen today by the time we got to Paiya, so probably wouldn't happen until Friday. As it so happened, when we reached Paiya for the Thursday 3 pm, we were ushered straight onto said jeep. Well, I say jeep, what I really mean is mobile-earthquake-simulator.

      Straight out of Paiya, the jeep jerked violently back and forth on the crooked, rocky track, causing all sorts of limbs to rattle against the vehicle's roof as we came concerningly close to the sheer cliff drop. Thomas claimed that he felt like he was in an episode of 'the world's most dangerous roads', while I joked that I was impressed with the quality of Nepalese roads (hitting my head on the roof in the process.) Maybe we were in our element, with the feeling of invincibility apparently yet to wear off in our naive youth, even as the driver got out to rearrange the road for the dodgiest cliff hang into the abyss yet.

      The worst of the exposure was over come Thamdanda, though, and after picking up some stray locals along the way, we were up to 11 people crammed into the jeep. Eleven! For a jeep big enough for maybe 7-8. With four in the front, the driver was practically hanging out the window, but thankfully retained enough tact to avoid the biggest boulders in the way. It was hardly comfortable in the back either, with not even enough leg room for an outstretched thigh causing severe cramps for the both of us. Our convulsions over the calamitous road continued for 6½ hours, and we drew a sigh of relief when our jeep did *eventually* turn on its headlights for the darkness.

      Yes, finally at 9:30 pm, we had reached Salleri: paved road! But the uncomfortable bit wasn't over yet as we were told we'd have to be up by 4 am tomorrow for the onward leg to Kathmandu...

      Day 30: Salleri to Kathmandu
      Why the ellipsis, you're probably thinking. Surely that's the bad bit over with, you're on paved roads now? Well, not so much: this next journey was to last 12 hours. At 4 am we were escorted onto another jeep along with our merry band of accomplices from the previous leg: a Czech pair, a Réunion woman, a Korean woman, and a few Nepalis, even taking the same seating formation as we had the previous day.

      I have to say, I'm surprised there aren't more Nepalese drivers in Formula One. Though to be honest, if there were, I think you might see a lot of time penalties for foul play handed out. The driving around traffic is insane! Genuinely insane, as our driver careered recklessly around every slower moving vehicle, pulling out to overtake on blind bends without compromise, even when there was no road with which to be able to. Briefly being stuck behind a slower moving bus (though probably still going 50 mph), we caught sight first of chickens strapped to its tailgate, then goats clinging on from stood on the roof! Nepal is a bit mad, that's my conclusion.

      Between regular police checkpoints, where drivers would race to be the first to hand their slip of paper to an officer, we also stopped a lot. We stopped to eat Dhal Bhat here, ice cream there, fresh market fruit at another place, then crisps at another place, and another place etc. Feeling still a bit under optimum myself, I didn't have it all, but Thomas ate SO much this day. And it probably wasn't aided when we finally reached Kathmandu, returning to our favourite little restaurant opposite our hotel where we choked down pizza and chips (Thomas) and a burger and beer (JJ), then chocolate as a treat.
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