Himālaya & The Silk Road

March - April 2024
A *bit of a mess* by Thomas & JJ. Read more
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  • Day 1

    Day 1: STANDBY

    March 21 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    "I can't see a single thing going wrong this whole trip." I believe those were the words I'd uttered to Thomas upon entering through the main entrance doors to London Luton's departure terminal, in a confused tone, feigning confidence and bemusing sarcasm. It took a matter of mere minutes, and lo and behold, something went wrong (very wrong and very quickly). Standby?! Within an instant we'd gone from marvelling at our backpacks weighing only 11.1 kg and 11.2 kg respectively, to being told that we plainly had very little chance of getting on this flight at all.

    So here's how it figures: Wizz Air overbooked our flight to Cluj-Napoca. I know, how does that even happen? And not by one person or even two people, but by TEN people! So what about our onward flights?? What about Nepal? As much as we tried to reason for a human explanation from the woman at the check-in desk, she was quite insistent that they can 'legally do that as per the Terms & Conditions' (thanks, very helpful) and between joking with her colleague, at least found the time to explain that we'd only know if we could board our flight at the gate itself. Well, shit. So with little more to go on, Thomas made a quick call to Chris to explain the situation, who scoured our insurance details and somehow managed to magic up a whole new backup route within the hour, to Abu Dhabi via Paris just in case. Amid the melee of the confusion, Thomas decided it'd be the perfect time to have a browse around the Lego store in duty-free (interesting choice of timing, I know.) Anyhow, between frantic attempts to book seats for our onward flight to Abu Dhabi to avoid this happening again, and despite the lack of phone signal (as well as the fact that it wouldn't even matter if we couldn't get to Cluj anyway), we beelined our way to Gate 27 to salvage what hope we had left of boarding this flight to Romania. It wasn't looking hopeful, the queue seemed to snake so far that it may as well have just zigzagged to Romania itself, and after having been sidelined by the big STANDBY letters scrawled all over our boarding passes, we watched on as almost every other passenger passed through. Finally, and only when everyone else had boarded, it became apparent that we might just make this flight after all...?! With 6 seats empty, we were very luckily chosen to sneak through and onto the plane, with me even taking the seat of one dude who rocked up to the gate literally seconds after it closed! (Sorry, not sorry). Touch and go, but we're on our way to Cluj... Now just to see if our bags end up there too ! 🥴

    Big big big thanks to Dad and Mum for driving us up to the airport, and not least Chris for being on call for some admin shenanigans. This leg to Abu Dhabi had already been a rollercoaster, even before today. Our prior flight booked via Izmir, Turkey with Sun Express, a Lufthansa-Turkish mutant airline was trivially cancelled almost 2 months ago. Who says lightning doesn't strike twice?!
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  • Day 2

    Day 2: Cluj-Napoca to Abu Dhabi

    March 22 in Romania ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After touching down in Cluj-Napoca at 01:15 am and with nowhere in particular planned to stay, we were in no particular rush to leave the warmth of the airport for the bitter Romanian night. It also wasn't long before being reminded of what an absolute silly goose of a man I am, as I soon discovered I'd *already* lost my hat, less than a day into the trip. (Don't ask, I'm not over it yet). So after staying up all night, revising an academic paper on seal populations (Thomas) and reading about Joan of Arc (JJ), we took the opportunity at first light to get a glimpse of the real Romania, hopping onto a packed bus in the freezing conditions. My first impression of Cluj was of this: Eastern, concrete, brutalist, high-rise Soviet style apartment blocks which lined the wide boulevards jammed with loud Dacias. But as we strolled into the centre, the run down bits made way for the beautiful ornate architecture and grand religious buildings of the old town. Following a gander of the city's main sites, we then spent the mighty sum of 21 LEU (£3.62) between the two of us to buy enough food to get us through to Nepal, before hopping on a bus back to the airport, where I apparently asked the driver "are you going to Cluj?", the very place we were in (his confused look reflecting the lack of sleep getting to me I think). Upon our return to departures, we saw the magnificent workings of a Romanian airport, such as a local worker using power tools which spewed glowing embers down onto members of the public from above (very safe), the questionable mire of tangled power lines on practically every utility pole, and boarding gates made out of essentially makeshift shipping containers, before boarding our flight to Abu Dhabi (this time no issues). 5hr of intermittent sleep and views over Iraq later, and we're here, in my first ever experience of a Premier Inn (so this trip is clearly worth it now). 😎Read more

  • Day 3

    Day 3: Abu Dhabi to Kathmandu

    March 23 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Halfway through writing yesterday's post, Thomas turned to me and said "Are you enjoying being incontinent number two?" As much as it made me chuckle at the time, I'm fairly sure he was referring to our touchdown in UAE being our first venture into the second continent of our trip, and first steps (ever!) into Asia, and not in fact a reference to a lack of voluntary control when it comes to needing the toilet. In some twisted tempt of fate though, I think the universe was laughing at us, because it wasn't long before Thomas became incontinent number one for real, coming down with something of a swirling illness. Still though, we did have another flight to catch, and after barely 6 hours of sleep in the Premier Inn (where we didn't even get time to sample the pool!), we were off again, shuttle bussing our way back to the airport amongst perhaps the only rain deserty Abu Dhabi might experience all year. Thankfully, its airport was decked out with plenty of facilities for Thomas, and we were officially making headway for Kathmandu after the bizarre repeated chanting of 'Allahu Akbar' over the tannoy on our Air Arabia flight take off.

    In our eagerness, we might've mistaken nearly every cloud for some glaciated Himalayan peak, but when we finally descended through the haze, we laid eyes upon Kathmandu for the first time, sprawling out in every direction as far as the eye could see. The next task was something of a confusing one as we navigated the visa application process, our own Britishness probably working against us as we incorrectly joined pretty much every queue in immigration. In fact, by the time we'd figured it all out, there was no one left manning passport control to even let us in. Eventually though, we made our way through and bought SIM cards and a taxi ride into town from some friendly faces, so friendly in fact that we thought they might have been scamming us, but they can't have done because we each spent only £4.16 on 20 GB SIM cards, and £2.68 on the taxi. A personal highlight was one guy trying to give me his business card as a local mountain guide, only for, when I tried to take it, he said I couldn't because it was his only copy lol.

    Still, the taxi ride through the city was an overload of the senses: cars honking and swerving recklessly, monkeys running between people, narrow twisting streets crammed with interesting trinkets. Before long, we'd arrived at Hotel Premium, and boy, is it premium here (and it better be for £3.68 each a night.) Taking some short time to relax, we suddenly remembered that eating was a thing you're sort of supposed to do, and headed up to the rooftop restaurant for a hearty vegetable curry. It's not based on a lot, but I think we both love Nepal so far! And with that sentiment we returned to our room, where I finally put pen to paper on the contract for my job starting in September and we drifted off into a deep slumber.
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  • Day 4

    Day 4: Holi Festival

    March 24 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Holi is the sacred ancient Hindu Festival of Colours, Love and Spring, marking the end of winter and victory of good over evil. And so, after a morning pitstop for some fruity breakfast, we only had one thing on our minds: to get stuck in with the festivities.

    The celebration itself involves hurling powdered paint at targets who mark their willingness by sporting white t-shirts. But first, to find some white t-shirts of our own. And we barely had to stumble over the front doorstep before finding one of the hundreds of sellers lined up along the street with t-shirts and paint. Delighted with our new purchases, we retreated back into the room and prepared for the dousing of our lives, stripping ourselves of anything valuable and bracing for an art-inspired whirlwind. Thomas even took his backup phone in a waterproof cover, while I chose not to take a phone at all. We'd heard that Durbar square, the bustling 4th-8th century-built centre where Nepal's kings had been crowned, was the liveliest place to see the hellfire of paint rain down, and so we headed off south, unknowing of what to expect from the day.

    Shortly after setting off, we soon discovered exactly what to expect, as gangs of kids hiding out behind corners of buildings and camped up on balconies sniped us with water guns and flung paint at us like seasoned professionals. It has to be said, we gave as much as we got, even if we did just hand over 3 bags of coloured powder to some little kids out of misunderstanding. By the time we'd reached Durbar square, we were certainly looking colourful, and about to reach new levels of vibrance. The square itself was rocking, crammed with Nepalis drumming from the slopes of the temples, and flooded by carnival goers joining the procession. The joy and enthusiasm was infectious; locals would come up to you and gleefully smear powder all over your face, capped off by a 'Happy Holi!' on their escape. The friendliness of the natives also added to the warm feeling, with their eagerness to join our pictures while encouraging us to dance to the traditional music.

    After several hours of engaging in colourful combat, we eventually became drained from the jolly-up and decided to make our way back, finding ourselves taking a different route back amid the maze of streets. As we ventured down one narrow street which comically didn't deter people despite being dug up by an excavator, which itself was perilously close to the low-hanging power lines, we met a boy named Badal. Badal seemed like a nice kid, and he asked if we wanted to see where he went to school. Now, I'll say this; we usually wouldn't have fallen for that, but having just experienced the kindness of the Nepalese people, we didn't see anything wrong with talking to this kid for a bit longer. Long story short, after drinking tea with us at a nearby café, he ends up leading us into what becomes apparent to be an art shop, where we were somewhat scammed into buying a painting, albeit only scamming us out of about £20. Foolish of us I know, and a shame of them to take advantage of the atmosphere to lure tourists in, but hey we shan't dwell, you live and you learn.

    All in all, a very enjoyable and memorable day, made all the more memorable by the clean up that followed (two showers still isn't enough, my hair might be green forever)
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  • Day 5

    Day 5: Kathmandu

    March 25 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a much-sleepless night, still programmed for Greenwich Mean Time, we eventually hauled ourselves from our weary room and headed to our favourite eatery across the road, where we'd now become regulars. There, sat over the dish of the day, we discussed the plan of action of the day in order to prepare for our upcoming trek. Item one on the agenda: finding cash. Up until now, we'd somehow lasted with a threadbare supply of Rupees we'd ordered in prior to our trip, but now we very much needed a healthy supply to get us through our rural route to follow. Sorting this out after identifying the lowest fees by fiddling with a collection of ATMs, we turned our attention to visiting the British embassy, where we figured we'd drop them a 'tally ho' and doff a scone in their general direction to let them know we'd be doing our own independent trek in case anything goes wrong. The journey there was something of an experience in itself, honestly I could write paragraphs and paragraphs just about *crossing the road* alone. Yes, you too can cross a Nepalese road by following these simple and easy instructions:
    1. Step out in front of the hoards of manic, speeding traffic.
    2. Pray.
    And so after experiencing my life flash before my eyes a mere handful of times, we reached the barbed-wire gates of the embassy, where frankly they couldn't give enough of a toss about our intentions to let us in (so we wrote them an email instead.) Bored with our chores already, we headed back in the other direction, stopping only at a fake outdoor gear shop in Thamel to find me a snazzy, new (and forged) arc'teryx hat, where we then marched onwards through the backstreets to Swoyambhu Mahachaitya (try saying that one three times in a row.)

    Otherwise described as 'the monkey temple', this stupa is one of the most important and sacred pilgrimage sites in Tibetan Buddhism; an ancient complex of temples, shrines and monasteries rising high on a hill above western Kathmandu, with the wafting of incense and mischief of macaques meandering the site. Ascending the steps was like climbing the stairway to heaven, where at the top, there were swathes of colourful prayer flags draped between the trees and the view of the city stretched as far as the pollution induced haze would allow in every direction. We took some time to enjoy the surroundings and relative peace from the streets below, even joking that Kathmandu would be where someone from Mumbai might come for a 'relaxing getaway.'

    With thunder rolling in, we decided to take our leave, evading the monkeys and opting for a much more direct route back to the hotel, where the remaining evening was spent finally eating some food that didn't involve rice, and buying up supplies as we brace for tomorrow's horror show of a bus ride towards Jiri.
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  • Day 6

    Day 6: Kathmandu to Jiri

    March 26 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    There are several trailheads to commence the trek into Everest Base Camp. Many tourists on a timescale choose to fly from Kathmandu straight into Lukla, with a reputation as perhaps the most dangerous flight in the world, where the short runway is bookended either side by a sheer drop and a huge cliff. On the other hand, some travellers prefer to rent a jeep and enter via Phaplu, while the more time-rich trekkers can choose to walk the extra 90 km+ by riding a bus into the small town of Jiri, taking some extra time to soak in rural Nepalese life and acclimatise to the ascending altitudes. Having weighed up our options and deciding we'd be best suited to take our time, we opted for the latter route, and having done our homework, set off to Jadibuti via taxi at 7 am, where we crossed our fingers in hope of finding a ride towards Jiri.

    After rattling through the early streets of Kathmandu, our taxi driver pulled up on a busy road, wound down his front window and emphasised the word 'Jiri' to some locals who were causing the regular disruption. Within a matter of seconds, our haggling with the taxi driver had become well, obsolete, as we didn't even have time to break change before he'd opened his tailgate and allowed the locals to scurry off with my backpack. Alarmed at having had practically the entirety of my possessions walked off with, I rushed after the guy who took us to a bus where the driver claimed to be going to Jiri. Fair enough, we thought, there's no other way we'd know where the hell it's going, so we hopped on. At least by consolation, we weren't the only westerners on board; an American dude named Brock rocked up soon after, and it wasn't long before the bus was crawling along through the suburbs, recruiting locals on board seemingly at random. Passengers weren't the only thing this bus traded though, as we stopped at nearly every market en route for some new commodity, even picking up boxes and boxes of newly hatched chicks, which were crammed up into the overhead bag storage for the journey! Despite the persistent chirping which eventually became drowned out by the blaring traditional music, the journey was actually... alright?! We'd been braced for the ride from hell; we even read one article yesterday from someone who'd said something to the effect of 'it wasn't that bad' followed by 'only half of the passengers became travel sick' and 'we had to sit on top of the bus and dodge the power lines in the rain'. But in the end, despite an 8+ hour journey of incessant hairpin turns and crumbling cliffside roads, we didn't experience any of that and, dare I say, we actually kind of enjoyed the ride? Oh, and we did get smuggled off of our original bus and shoehorned into another that turned out to *actually* be going to Jiri at one point, but not much drama otherwise.

    Anyhow, once we'd arrived in the Jiri rain, a local man greeted us straight off the bus and into his lodging, Hotel Everest, where we've spent the evening playing card games with Minnesotan Brock and local man Probin, and feasting on Tibetan Bread, dumpling-style MoMos and Dal Bhat.
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  • Day 7

    Day 7: Jiri

    March 27 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Okay, bit of a write-off day. After repeated bouts of throwing up and rejecting the contents of my stomach overnight (Dal Bhat I reckon) we decided to take the conservative approach and stay put for the day. Still, it's not been entirely unproductive, as I managed to join a call for UKAEA, and Thomas finished critiquing his paper to re-submit, as well as mingling with our hosts. We go again tomorrow 🫡Read more

  • Day 8

    Day 8: Jiri to Shivalaya

    March 28 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today, we finally kicked off our trek, taking the first steps hopefully towards the slopes of the world's tallest mountain. Not a long day as of itself, but at least personally, a difficult one, and not on account of the mild 9.5 km distance, 600m ascent or altitude, but out of feeling so weak for illness and lack of having eaten for two days.

    Still, we had plenty to appreciate, enjoying witnessing quiet rural life in the foothills of the Himalayas. As suspected, Thomas marvelled at the array of exotic birds, rhododendrons and every tidbit of biology he could feast his eyes upon, while the locals have been incredibly friendly, trading us a modest 'namaste' and pointing us in the right direction at every available opportunity. One thing we found particularly interesting was just how many tiny settlements are dotted all about: small farmsteads and tiny communities too insignificant to be classified as villages or even be granted their own names stretch almost continuously along the trail. It really does feel like if you slipped away to live a life as a humble Nepalese farmer, no-one might find you ever again. Perhaps also surprisingly, it's just SO quiet, with us seeing barely another western trekker the entire day, and so far we've been spoilt for choice for empty teahouses to choose between.

    Shivalaya, our day one destination, is named after Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction amongst other things, and perhaps by fate of name was devastated by the 7.8 magnitude earthquake that occurred here in 2015. It's clearly been rebuilt since, and is a colourful but sleepy stopover, where we've bought our entrance through to the Gaurishankar Conservation Area for tomorrow's section and cooled off by actually eating something (me) and trying to ring his Nan twenty times (Thomas).
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  • Day 9

    Day 9: Shivalaya to Deurali

    March 29 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We were sad to say goodbye to cheerful Shivalaya, and even sadder to say goodbye to our teahouse host, Badar, who took the time to explain the religious and social changes Nepal has been going through over the past 20 years. Most interestingly, Badar explained how he himself was a Buddhist while his wife was a Hindu; something that would've been strictly forbidden under the caste system only two decades ago, as well as touching on other issues such as the impact of the internet on rural life, and the increasing shift to gender balance in Nepal.

    After tipping freely in thanks for his hospitality, we were back on the trail again, and suddenly faced with an unrelenting 1 km ascent up to the village of Deurali, at an altitude of 2705 m. Here's the problem though, my illness had set in even worse today, with periodic sneezing, a sore throat, feverous chills, stomach cramps, and a complete decimation of energy levels to name but a few symptoms. But why has it been so hard to avoid illness so far? We don't know frankly, is it the food, the water, the foreign strains of sickly bacteria you simply can't avoid? Up until now, we've been double purifying our water supply, first using an ultraviolet steripen to disinfect it, followed by a treatment of Chlorine Dioxide solution to be extra sure of its cleanliness. Every time I'd been taking a gulp of our processed water though, it had only been adding to my thirst and further irritating my inflamed throat. I don't know if my body just doesn't agree with Chlorine Dioxide (Thomas has been fine after all), or if I inhaled one gulp of chlorine gas too many in its preparation, but I decided to switch over from chemical treatment to using my water filter with the steripen, which has been much better since.

    Anyhow, the result of all this has been a painfully slow day without much significant progress. Still, Thomas (who enjoyed his healthiest day yet himself) punctuated the uphill heaves of footsteps by immersing himself in the Himalayan biology once again, even spotting a venomous Orange Collared Keelback snake under foot. Calling the day short at Deurali, it's been a quiet evening (again as the only guests here at all!) while I try to sniffle myself back to something resembling a healthy person.
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  • Day 10

    Day 10: Deurali to Namkheli

    March 30 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A shorter one today because I'm tired (but mostly feeling better minus a cold). After stepping out of the door from our teahouse in Deurali, we gazed out upon our very first view of snow capped peaks on the trek, with a clear view up to Pikey Peak and a handful of other mountains rising to 5,000m, which apparently given their abundance in Nepal, hadn't even been named. The descent from Deurali into Bhandar was a real highlight, passing through untouched local life, where the view into the vast valley was complemented by sightings of baby goats and namaste-nodding natives. Heading back up the other side from our low point of the day, the beating sun did its best to slow our ascent into Namkheli, during which some guy stopped to stare at us on passing, getting uncomfortably close to me while clutching a machete (no, really, we think he wanted cigarettes?) We've received some odd looks in Namkheli, I don't think they receive many western tourists here at all (if ever?), especially being slightly off the extended Everest Base Camp routes. Finally, with the sun setting, our day was capped off with our first experience of a full-on monsoon, blackening out the sparkling sky and scattered hillside lights with the violent crescendoing of thunder and eruption of a dense downpour.Read more