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Camino de Santiago (Frances)

We're setting out on an adventure of a lifetime. Just two crazy kids walking 500 miles across northern Spain. I hope you enjoy following along. Weiterlesen
  • Day 16-Atapuerca

    20. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    We must have our Camino legs now because today's 12 miles went by really fast. After our breakfast buffet this morning, we headed out just before sunrise. We started with about a two mile ascent which then leveled off for most of the day. The ladscape was beautiful.

    There are about eight of us walking the same distances so it's been nice passing each other and then meeting in town again.

    We stopped for coffee in San Juan de Ortega before heading to Agés. We were hoping to have lunch in Agés but the burger place we'd heard about wasn't open yet so we kept going to our final destination of Atapuerca.

    Our host told us about a fine dining restaurant (Comosapiens) that is only open until 3:30pm during the week so we went there and had a very nice three-course lunch.

    The exciting news of the day is that our place has a washing machine! We washed every stitch of clothing we have (both sets, haha) and luckily it's sunny and windy so everything has dried quickly.

    Tomorrow we walk to Burgos and then we'll have a rest day.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 17-Burgos

    21. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    The walk to Burgos was...miserable. Yes, we took the beautiful river route but it was the weather that did us in. It was cold, rainy and very windy. The forecast predicted a tiny bit of drizzle but it rained for five hours.

    We compounded the misery by not stopping to rest. We only stopped at the first town to drink hot chocolate while standing because the place was packed with drenched pilgrims. We had to climb over backpacks to get in. It's too bad we weren't hungry because the food looked great. I think alot of the pilgrims took taxis at that point but we trudged on.

    The view of the cathedral as we walked into the plaza was spectacular! And then it stopped raining and we were rewarded with a blue sky.

    Tomorrow is a rest day and I'm looking forward to it.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 17 - Burgos

    21. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Well we made it, we swam half the way. We walked 14 miles in mostly steady rain and 20 mph winds from 7:45am until about 2pm. At least we get a day off in Burgos. My update was late yesterday as we had no internet service last night. Enjoy the images and video.Weiterlesen

  • Burgos Day Off

    22. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We spent the day touring the Burgos Cathedral and the Human Evolution Museum. Today's update will be the Tour of the Cathedral. We are back on the pilgrimage tomorrow (Saturday) with a 14 mile hike to start the Meseta, plains.Weiterlesen

  • Rest day in Burgos

    22. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    What a difference a day makes! We woke up to a cool but clear morning. After breakfast, we toured the cathedral. We spent at least two hours exploring the many areas available to the public. With the help of the audio guide, I can now identify Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque art and structures.

    We had a wonderful lunch celebrating our 22nd anniversary. I had the suckling lamb roasted in a wood-fired oven. It was super tender and delicious!

    In the afternoon, we went to the Museum of Human Evolution. It was interesting but we were overloaded with info and some of the visual presentations made us dizzy.

    It was a well-deserved and fun rest day. Tomorrow we hit the trail again. No rain in the forecast.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 18 - Hornillos del Camino

    23. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Back on the trail again after a good day off. We are now less than 500 kilometers from the completion (just under 300 miles). First day on the Meseta (you know, it only rains in Spain, mainly on the plains - meseta). No rain today but we did walk about 14.5 miles. It seems to be getting easier to do longer distance, provided the weather cooperates.Weiterlesen

  • Day 18-Hornillos del Camino

    23. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    What a lovely day! It was cold this morning so we didn't start walking until after 9am. It was sunny and there was little shade, but a constant cool breeze made it enjoyable.

    We stopped for coffee in Tardajos and I ended up sparking a lively conversation about tortilla de patatas among four local women. It wasn't the usual "with or without onions" debate. It got into "not everyone makes good tortilla", to the right type of potato to use, to how to beat the eggs properly. We found Tardajos to be an extremely friendly town. Several older gentlemen stopped us to talk as we walked through town.

    As we were walking down the hill into Hornillos, we heard explosions and saw smoke in the air. We were hoping it wasn't another Civil War. When we checked in, we found out that there was a wedding in the plaza (we could hear the music) and they were responsible for the fireworks. We tried to crash the wedding but we were woefully underdressed. But not as underdressed as the German guy wandering the street in his boxers!

    We chatted and dined with a Hungarian lady who started her Camino today in Burgos. 13 years ago she walked St. Jean to Burgos. We also dined with a couple we've been with since Quintanilla. We seem to stay at the same places. They recently moved from California to Georgia.

    We ended up walking 14.5 miles today. Tomorrow might be slightly shorter.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 19-Castrojeriz

    24. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    When we arrived in Hornillos at 3pm yesterday, that wedding was in full swing. It kept going until 3am. How do I know? Some of the wedding guests stayed in the same casa rural (country home) we were in. Two men kept going in and out of the house and slamming the front door so we didn't get much sleep. The fireworks at midnight were pretty cool, though. I must still need to learn some lessons from the Camino because I took great pleasure in slamming the bathroom door at 6am.

    We walked about 13 miles today and had a rest stop about halfway through in Hontanas to have a cool drink and sweet watermelon. I expected to meseta to be all brown at this time of year but there were many trees and some green crops. The meseta is not completely flat either. It's more like flat hilltops with valleys.

    We walked through the ruins of the San Anton Monastery where our friend Kerrie volunteers. They have a rustic (no electricity) albergue there. Pat got excited when he saw that they have a telescope there, but we moved on because we like electricity.

    We're staying at Albergue Orion in Castrojeriz. They have a great courtyard for chatting and hanging laundry. A unique aspect of this albergue is that they make Korean food, so we had ramen for lunch and they're serving bibimbap for dinner.

    It's going to be warm tomorrow so we'll be leaving before sunrise.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 19 - Castrojeriz

    24. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We walked 13 miles today, 2nd day on the Meseta. It is flater, and we are getting our Camino legs underneath us. So much so that 12 miles is almost easy (if it is flat, no wind, and no rain). Walked with another pilgram we met yesterday from Budapest Hungary for a few kilometers.

    We got to Castrojeriz and are staying at an albergue (semi hostel/ semi hotel), but our host serves Korean dishes. We had kimchi ramen noodles, mmm good, and are having Bibimbap (rice and a bunch of sides).
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 20-Boadilla del Camino

    25. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    Walked about 14 miles today. There was one hill we went up and over but then it was pretty flat. We started just before sunrise in 40 degrees and made it across the valley and halfway up the hill as the sun rose.

    We stopped and had a sandwich in a little town with a smart, little dog. He just sat in front of us patiently waiting for a handout. When all we had left were the crusty parts of the bread, he moved on.

    It got warm during our last five miles so we put the unbrellas up for shade. We would have melted otherwise.

    Our hotel is quite nice for 50€. Alot of pilgrims had to walk another 8km because there are no more beds available here.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 20 - Boadilla del Camino

    25. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Today's update is only pictures, the temperature got up a little today, we had to put our umbrellas up. Walked 14 miles today, again our apps are way off on real travel time and distance. Tomorrow is long trek, over 15 miles, we will see how we hold up after that....Weiterlesen

  • Day 21-Carrion de los Condes

    26. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    This was one of our longest walks...16 miles. We started out before dawn to beat the heat. The first two hours we walked next to a canal and kept gazing up at the stars. The sunrise was gorgeous.

    We stopped a couple times for snacks and got into Carrion de lis Condes at 2pm. After laundry and snack, we went to the Albergue where the nuns sing with pilgrims. It was a really nice experience and we got to know more pilgrims from all over the world.

    After the pilgrims blessing at church, we had a lovely dinner with a couple from Michigan. Then straight to bed.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 21 - Carrión de los Condes

    26. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

    Today was our longest hiking day of our trip, and it seemed easier than the last long hike we had earlier. We have two more long hike days, but they are in the last ten days. The hike was over 16 miles, and we started at a 6:45am. The sunrise here is at 8:05am.Weiterlesen

  • Day 22-Calzadilla de la Cueza

    27. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Relatively short day, 11 miles, and flat but no towns or services in between so it was a bit monotonous. Sunflowers, corn fields and dirt. There was a food truck halfway through so we took a little break.

    We arrived in Calzadilla about noon and found the friendliest innkeeper who checked us in quickly so we could get to our chores (laundry) and then lunch.

    Today marks the halfway point of the walking portion of our trip. I can't believe we've made it this far!
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 23 - Moratinos

    28. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Very different day, today we made our first big mistake. It was going to be about a 10 mile walk. We stopped in a small town to get our Camino passport stamped and to have a refreshment, our final stop was just under 2 miles away. Well, when we got to the next town we realized we made a big mistake.

    Make sure to watch both videos to catch what happened. Overall we walked around 12 miles.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 23-Moratinos

    28. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Well, today was supposed to be a short day, about 9 miles, but it turned into 12 miles due to a minor screw up of mine.

    We had a delightful time walking from town to town today, stopping for coffee or a beverage each time. As we arrived in Moratinos for a break, we were surprised by a guy who was doing wax stamps rather than ink ones. We got our stamp and stopped for a snack and a beverage. Then we wandered another mile and a half to the next town, San Nicolás, to spend the night. When we arrived, I checked my phone for the name of our place...Hostal Moratinos...sinking feeling sets in. Why would Hostal Moratinos be in a town a mile and a half away from Moratinos? Uh-oh. A google search later had us walking back to Moratinos to the exact place we stopped for our break. The stamp guy and the hostal owners had a good laugh. Oh well, we added three miles to our Camino. We needed to burn our breakfast calories anyway.Weiterlesen

  • Day 24-Bercianos del Real Camino

    29. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    A little bit of a long day since we had to do a repeat of the first mile and a half but we were rewarded with a delicious tortilla de patatas in San Nicolás served with homegrown tomatoes. We started before sunrise and walked by the light of the moon. It was a nice walk from town to town and we were able to pickup a halfway certificate in Sahagún. We also saw a tough motorcycle gang which you'll see in the video.

    We have a couple of short days next followed by a rest day (after 10 straight days of walking). We're looking forward to taking it easy for a bit.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 25 - Reliegos

    30. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Ok, 13 miles today, we have two easier days, 8 miles each and then a day off in León. We both are having minor issues, as would be expected, but the day off cures a lot off it.

    Walked : 276 miles
    To go: 224 milesWeiterlesen

  • Day 25-Reliegos

    30. September 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Well, here I go again...our short days are the next two days, not today. Today was a 13 mile day and a bit hot. We decided to transport some of our stuff to our next location to give my neck and Pat's knee a break. Pat, ever the gentleman, carried just what we needed for the walk in his backpack and I went packless. Our stuff was already in our room when we arrived.

    We've noticed that the mountains are getting closer. I guess we are the ones that are getting closer to the mountains. We also saw a herd of sheep today. It's been awhile.

    What we've mostly seen along the meseta are sunflowers and corn. And flies. I'm not sure why there are so many flies. Maybe it's all the stinky pilgrims. Not us, though.

    We ran into a lady today that we were with on Day 1 at Auberge Borda. She said she's meeting up with another lady in León that we've known since St. Jean and haven't seen since Pamplona. It looks like there's going to be a reunion for alot of us in Leon.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day-26 Puente Villarente

    1. Oktober 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    After dinner last night, we walked down the street to check out the famous Bar Elvis. It definitely stood out in this sleepy little town. We had a drink and then back to our place, La Cantina de Teddy, which we loved. This town had several bodegas (wine, ham and cheese storage) built into a hill.

    We had an easy 10 miles of walking today before the heat set in. We stopped for a coffee in Mansilla de las Mulas at an albergue with a really pretty garden.

    While we waited for our room to be ready in Punte Villarente, we had a beverage. I love that they give you free tapas here with your drink. After we checked in and did laundry, we walked around looking for a place for lunch. Well, it's Sunday so our place was the only restaurant open for lunch. Then we found out that they were completely full for lunch (to be seated and order off the menu) but we could order a sandwich, which we didn't feel like. So we told them we'd just have a couple drinks and tapas. They then brought us two plates full of tapas. They were so nice to us. We ended up chatting to a local for a while and had a great time.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 26 - Puente Villarente

    1. Oktober 2023 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Nice and easy day today, we walk about 10 miles. We have the same tomorrow going into León, and we then have a day off.

    It has been absolutely wonderful with Gina so fluent in Spanish. Everyone complements her on how well she speaks their language. Only came close to having beat up two old men for hitting on her 😃Weiterlesen

  • Day 27 - León

    2. Oktober 2023 in Spanien ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Short walk into León, about 10 miles today. We are staying at the Paradores in León, really nice when compared to some of the places we have stayed on our journey. We get to enjoy a day off on Tuesday so we are going to tour the Cathedral and enjoy the local cuisine.

    We are now less than 200 miles from our goal, and we are over 60 percent complete on the Camino.
    Weiterlesen

  • Day 27-León

    2. Oktober 2023 in Spanien ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    On our 10 mile walk today, Pat happened to mention that we have three weeks of walking until we reach Santiago. I just couldn't believe it. The time is going by so quickly.

    The walk was easy until we reached León's city limits and had to maneuver through traffic and crowds.

    Our room wasn't ready when we arrived so we left our backpacks at the hotel and had lunch at a yummy Italian place. When we back to the hotel, the receptionist brought out our backpacks and said, "it's really hard carrying a backpack". Yeah, I know.

    A German tourist got a kick out of our pilgrim passports and took pictures of the stamps we'd collected. He couldn't believe we'd walked over 400 kilometers so far.

    We're staying at the Parador in León which was originally a 16th century monastery and hospital. It was also a prison at some point but it's now a five star hotel brimming with antiques and artwork in the hallways and cloister. It also has high-end lighting and fixtures in the room (which is the size of apartments I lived in when I was in my 20s) . I don't even want to leave the room to check out León.

    But we did venture out to the Barrio Romántico for drinks and tapas. This area is known for cecina, which is thinly sliced cured beef. Basically, it's prosciutto made from a cow. It's delicious!

    Tomorrow is a rest day so we'll tour the cathedral and soak up the local ambiance.
    Weiterlesen