• gmoney
  • gmoney

Camino de Santiago (Frances)

We're setting out on an adventure of a lifetime. Just two crazy kids walking 500 miles across northern Spain. I hope you enjoy following along. Baca selengkapnya
  • Rest Day in Leon

    3 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Spent the day walking around León, touring the Cathedral, drinking and eating local fare (wine, beer, and tapas).

    Getting back to the trek tomorrow with a 13 mile walk. I do want to go but I must if I plan on getting home.Baca selengkapnya

  • Rest day in León

    3 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    It's been a nice, relaxing day. We started off with a massive breakfast. We've had some nice breakfast buffets at a few places but this Parador takes it to another level. Instead of the usual two types of bread, they had eight. Instead of four types of meat, they had seven. Instead of two types of cheese, they had six. And then there's the fruit, cereal, smoked salmon, eggs and bacon. We're working on a plan to make and sneak a couple of ham and cheese sandwiches for snack tomorrow. Why? I don't know, it feels risky and fun. Maybe we need more reflection time on Camino, but I doubt it.

    The Parador itself is a museum so we toured the cloister and church area. There are tombs and stones that date back to the 10th century.

    We then headed to the cathedral. The Cathedral of León has the most spectacular display of stained glass. Everywhere you looked there was more stained glass. After the tour, we sat at a café across from the cathedral to admire the view and watch pilgrims arriving.

    Then it was time for a tapas crawl because it's fun to compare what each place gives you...then siesta time.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 28-Villar de Mazarife

    4 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We didn't want to leave the Parador but it was time to hit the road. I stood on the balcony at 7am wishing the passing pilgrims a Buen Camino then we went downstairs for breakfast. First things first, we each snuck a ham and cheese sandwich for later. Pat said it was like a rich kid who shoplifts...they don't need to but they do it for the thrill. It turned out we really needed the sandwiches because when we were hungry, nothing was open.

    We had to walk through a couple busy suburbs before we got to the alternate route turnoff to Villar de Mozarife. It was a pretty walk in nature with little shade so I used my umbrella to keep cool. It's funny how towards the end of the walk I'm tired, hot and want it to be over but after a shower and cool beverage, I'm rejuvenated.

    Now we're just sitting in the courtyard watching our clothes dry. Our hostess just picked some apples and shared them with all of us.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 28 - Villar de Mazarife

    4 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Back at it, 13 miles today. I did not want to get up today, let alone go walking for hours. However, after we got started I got back into walking.

    It is funny, I am so ready to come home, but at the same time I do not want this journey to end. Enjoy the update, I had to make two videos today.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 29-Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias

    5 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We're starting to climb some small hills now. It's good training for what's to come, I suppose. We headed out just before sunrise and enjoyed cool air for most of our walk.

    We stopped for lunch in Hospital de Órbigo at a place with a beautiful garden. The highlight was sharing the garden, and some of our lunch, with the roosters, hens and pheasants. The pheasants had beautiful color patterns in their plumage.

    It started heating up for the final hour of our walk so we were happy to finally arrive at our albergue. 13 miles in all today. Tomorrow is a shorter day into Astorga.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 29 - Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias

    5 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    13 mile walk today. It was extremely straight today, I almost forgot how to turn left or right while walking. Some of the images and videos were from last night after my last update.

    We are less than 300 kilometers away from our goal. We have an 8 mile walk into Astorga tomorrow and a day off.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 30 - Astorga

    6 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Wow, day 30 already, we have 14 more walking days until we get to Santiago de Compostela (not including our days off). Walked an easy 9 miles today, and we now have a day off tomorrow.

    Toured the Astorga Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace, designed by Antoni Gaudí today. We are probably going to the Roman museum and the chocolate museum tomorrow.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 30-Astorga

    6 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Short 9 mile walk today. We finished before noon. The hills are getting a little bigger and steeper. The thing I noticed today is that there doesn't seem to be any smog. We mostly walk in the countryside but as we approach cities, I don't see any polution. We do run into alot of flies and poop smells (cows, sheep, fertilizer, pilgrims).

    We toured the cathedral and Gaudí's bishop's palace then sat on a bench eating ice cream admiring the architecture of both.

    We had a reunion last night with a couple of people we met on day 2.

    Tomorrow we're going to the Museo de Chocolate.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Rest day in Astorga

    7 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We can't move. Pat and I had Cocido Maragato (the local specialty) for lunch and we fully understand siesta time now. It's the time when your body forces you to lie down and reflect on why you felt compelled to eat so much. The meal started with bread and sliced tomatoes dressed in olive oil, salt and oregano. Followed by a pot of stewed meats big enough for four people. Then a big dish of garbanzos and stewed cabbage. Then a small pot of broth with fideos. Topped off with cake and custard, wine and water. We're in a food coma and we didn't even eat half of what was served.

    This morning we went to the chocolate museum, which was pretty interesting. They had the old equipment that was used when the production was done by hand. Of course, there were samples at the end.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • REST Day In Astorga

    7 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Pretty easy day. We actually slept in past 7am until almost 8. We toured around town to the Chocolate Museum, ate at a local resturant and had way too much. Laying on the bed now in a food coma.

    We leave Astorga tomorrow and have a 13 mile jaunt.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 31 - Rabanal del Camino

    8 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    A total of 13 miles today, we are definitely off the Meseta. The terrain turned mostly green, and there are these things called 'Hills' along the way. We also took a side track to a little villa that not many pilgrams go to. We almost missed the turn, well we did miss it and walked back 200 meters. We are blaming our friend Jeff Stiles. A pilgram walked by us at the turn off, and Gina and I thought the person looked like Jeff, then we started in on how Jeff would love and hate the Camino. The next thing we knew, we were past our turn and had to back track.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 31-Rabanal del Camino

    8 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We're not on the meseta anymore. We have steeper ascents now on rockier paths. We walked 13 miles today and tomorrow we are leaving two hours before sunrise so we can be at the top of the mountain for sunrise.

    We took an alternate route through Castrillo de los Polvazares that is a maragato historic landmark. All of the houses and streets had the same construction and look. Nothing was open when we walked through but it was beautiful.

    The restaurant attched to our albergue is serving pulpo today so, of course, I had some. It was yummy. Now it's time to rest up for tomorrow's long hike up and then down the mountain.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 32-Molinaseca

    9 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We did a 17 mile day today and while it was mostly downhill, it was a crazy, difficult downhill. Today was also the dirtiest are clothes have gotten. A powdery dirt ended up all over us.

    We started walking at 6am so that we could watch the sunrise from the Cruz de Ferro. This cross is a place where thousands of people have placed a rock they've brought from home. You can symbolically place whatever intention or burden you want on the stone and then leave it there.

    The mountains are green, high and beautiful. But along with that comes rough terrain. There were steep descents on loose rocks and slate. It was brutal but the heat wasn't too bad. When we got into town, my legs felt like noodles.

    Molinaseca has a river that occasionally is dammed to create a swimming pool. There are even swimming pool ladders and rails. The river is just trickling today so we'll probably cool our feet for a bit.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 32 - Molinaseca

    9 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Iron Cross Day. It is a checklist item as part of our trip. Long day, 17 miles. We peaked at 5000 feet elevation and ended up at 1900 feet elevation. It was really hard.
    We have an 11 mile day tomorrow, then another 15 mile day.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 33 - Camponaraya

    10 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We are 75% done with our walking portion of the Camino (in terms of days walking). We are 73.8% complete in actual miles. We have walked 362 miles of the 490 miles for the whole Camino.
    Today was right 11 miles and was pretty much city walking the whole way. It is getting a little cooler each day. There is a chance of rain in a few days, I am hoping it does not or at least is very light.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 33-Camponaraya

    10 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    13 miles today of flat, mostly sidewalk. We are 3/4 of the way done. It's hard to believe.

    We had a lovely breakfast served by our Brazilian hosts and we purposely didn't overeat, even though they kept offering more food.

    On the way to the next town, Ponferrada, a lady we've seen for the last two days told us about a Roman fountain up ahead. Her husband started walking two hours earlier and told her about it. It was a little scary walking down the steps to it because they just kept going and going and getting darker. We thought for sure we were being fed to the lions. We started joking that it's not everyday you see a Roman fountain or cross a Roman bridge, but walking the Camino you kinda do.

    We toured the Templar Knight's castle in Ponferrada. It looks just like the castles from our fairy tales. It was surreal seeing it in person and the thought behind the construction...an exit stairway to a well that draws water from the river.

    Our place tonight is an albergue and restaurant. The restaurant is closed today and there are only five of us staying here. Pat and I are currently the only ones sitting in the huge garden. The restaurant must be alot of fun when it's open.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 34-Trabadelo

    11 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We walked 15 miles today of gentle ascents and descents. We started at 6:45am to beat the heat...and we did. We walked alone until the last couple of hours when we encountered a couple with a toddler and a couple of young ladies from South Korea. We all were walking to Trabadelo as our stopping point. They are all very sweet.

    Since we left so early, we didn't have breakfast until we got to Cacabelos three miles later. Yes, that's the name of the town. We had the requisite café con leche and I had a croissant while Pat had a Napolitana (a chocolate croissant). It wasn't close to the amount of breakfast we've become accustomed to. I was hungry one hour later. We'd bought a loaf of bread last night and had a package of cecina (beef jerky) from Astorga to snack on when we walked through Villafranca del Bierzo a couple hours later.

    We're back walking among the vineyards whose grapes have been harvested and we watched one bodega getting ready to crush the grapes.

    We dragged ourselves into Trabadelo at 1pm and had a snack before checking in at Casa Susi. We prefer booking private rooms but Casa Susi comes highly revommended. The shared room has ten twin beds, but no bunk beds so I think it won't be too bad. The downside is there are only two bathrooms/showers so we rushed through bathing to not keep others waiting. There's a pretty river running along the property so we cooled (froze) our feet for a while. Dinner at Casa Susi is supposed to fuel us well for the big climb to O'Cebreiro tomorrow. I hope so because so far today, we've burned more calories than we've consumed.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 34 - Trabadelo

    11 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Day 34 is in the can, 15 miles total today. This was our last long day (>15 miles in a day). Tomorrow is shorter but no easier as we are going 4.5 miles up a steep incline. At least we have reasonable distances left, and we have a day off on Sunday, and it is supposed to rain pretty good that day.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 35 - O Cebreiro

    12 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We are double digit midgets (term from my military days), we have less than 100 miles left in our Camino!!!! We also have 9 days of walking left.
    What a day, the climb was really hard, 1800 feet elevation over 4.5 miles. This is our last hard day. From here on, it is literally downhill.Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 35-O'Cebreiro

    12 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We walked 13 miles today. The first 8 were pretty easy but then the rest were straight up a mountain (1800 feet elevation gain). Luckily, the weather was cool most of the time.

    I had a little bad luck with the insects. About an hour into the walk, I inhaled a bug. I had a coughing fit for about 15 minutes. A couple hours later, another bug flew into my mouth but I was able to spit it out. Why they chose me, I'll never know.

    We crossed into the province of Galicia and have 9 walking days and 100 miles left. It's getting more crowded now. There was a group of 50 high school kids at dinner tonight. I'm sure we'll see more of them tomorrow.

    We ended the day in O'Cebreiro and the pictures don't do justice to the views. Also, the church displays a chalice purported to be the Holy Grail. Of course, we had to take a look.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 36 - Tricastela

    13 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    13 mile trek today, started to sprinkle rain as we set out. Turned into a full on storm by 10 am. The wind was blowing at least 50 miles per hour, not what we were expecting. Did not get to many chances for photo or videos but we still did some.
    Tomorrow is an easy 6.5 mile hike and then we have a day off.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 36-Triacastela

    13 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Not much to write about today. There was supposed to be rain starting at 3pm which would give us plenty of time to complete today's walk. Instead there was a torrential downpour with hurricane force winds shortly after we started walking.

    We played a game today called "dodge the cow patties". At one point it was no use so now our shoes smell like cow 💩. They're not coming home with us.

    We stopped a couple times for nourishment and jogged the last mile downhill during a break from the wind. It was a 13 mile walk.

    We feel pretty good now after a hot shower and a hot meal. We have a very short day tomorrow plus a rest day.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 37-Samos

    14 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We were able to sleep in a bit today since we only had 6.5 miles to walk. It was a nice surprise to see so many people we knew at breakfast since I thought they would have left much earlier.

    The weather was mild and no rain was forecast. The trail went up and down but nothing too steep. Since we weren't in a rush, we stopped midway for a coffee...and sorbet. We walked through a few sleepy towns loaded with chestnut and walnut trees.

    Today's calamity is brought to you by my curiosity and obsession with food. I kept seeing these big bunches of herb-looking plants growing wild everywhere. When I think a plant is an herb, I rub a leaf to smell it to determine what it is. When I rubbed the leaf, I noticed it was fuzzy and then I felt a really painful, prickly, burning sensation in my fingers. I thought I had a dozen splinters in my fingers but Pat said it was probably stinging nettles. I did an image search and, sure enough, that's what it was. It will take a few hours for the pain to completely dissipate. I wonder what mess I'll get into tomorrow.

    As we entered Samos we were greeted with a beautiful view of the 1500 year old monastery. We'll tour it tomorrow on our day off.

    When we checked in to our place, we met an Italian couple. It was fun practicing my rudimentary Italian and I was able to have a 15 minute conversation with them before running out of words.
    Baca selengkapnya

  • Rest day in Samos

    15 Oktober 2023, Spanyol ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    This was our last rest day until we reach Santiago in seven days. We had a nice breakfast with the Italians and a couple from Texas. We ended up speaking a new language called Spanglishian.

    We toured the monastery which was pretty darn big. I think the monk said it's 14,000 square meters and it was built in the 6th century. They rent rooms to pilgrims but I don't think staying in a monastery is for us.

    We had a long, leisurely lunch because we really don't have anything else to do. After lunch we walked over to a chapel that is next to the oldest cypress tree in Spain which is believed to be 1000 years old!
    Baca selengkapnya