BROOME OR BUST

Born from a spark beside the fire and fueled by laughter and wine, a wild idea took hold — to road-trip across Australia and kayak the Indian Ocean. From the heart of the outback to the edge of the world. Two best friends. One road. Endless horizons. Baca lagi

Ikuti Ringkasan Kalendar Gambar Kongsi

Permulaan perjalanan
10 Jun 2025
BROOME OR BUST Pengembara
Broken Hill
10 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
It’s time to leave these freezing temps behind and head west. Two old chooks and a Tommy! Destination Broken Hill! First stop Nyngan and bugger, the beautiful old restored pub was closed until late afternoon! That will be a weekend getaway down the track! Pull up first fuel stop. Neither of us could open the fuel cap. Lucky the gorgeous fuel stop chick knew what to do and showed us. Couldn’t fill the tank as apparently they get air pockets and guess who copped a diesel drenching! Thankfully the knight next to us came to the rescue. Could not quite believe his ears when we told him we were crossing the continent!Yummy sandwich though from the ‘I fuckin wanna quit this business’ cafe! On to Broken Hill navigating our way through plague proportions of goats! Never seen so many Billy Goats and Nanny Goats each with a set of twins !
Big day of driving to The Palace Hotel in Broken Hill and who should we meet from Molong? Hahaha.Baca lagi
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5 suka
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Quorn
11 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Well with a big 9 hour day done yesterday, we are cruising along to Quorn. Early Broken Hill morning I walked up to the miners memorial to watch the sunrise. So beautiful. What an incredible history is the mining industry here. I was taken aback by the sheer numbers of mining deaths and the memorial is quite a humbling experience.
Before leaving Broken Hill we head to the Pro Hart gallery. What an iconic interesting Australian artist and well worth the visit. As with many artists he was prolific , painting, drawing , sculpting and staining the odd carpet or two! Hehe. Love his dragon fly work and his hilarious Finding God and Home Brew series.
We drove out and walked to Living Desert Sculptures.
The idea of Living Desert Sculptures began on April 1, 1993, when artists from around the world began work on 12 sandstone sculptures in the middle of the desert outside Broken Hill. Giant sandstone blocks weighing more than 50 tonnes had been shipped in from the Wilcannia region for the sculpture symposium, organised by artist Lawrence Beck.

Six weeks later, the artists unveiled their creations, and it’s quite a spectacular site. Well worth a visit and I can imagine camping out here and seeing the sculptures at different times of the day would be amazing.
On to Quorn!
We arrive in Quorn with just enough time to make it to the Gin Distillery! Yummm. Needless to say we add gin to the moving Tommy wine cellar
( back seat)! No room for strays here.
Quorn is a gorgeous quaint little town which is incredibly progressive with its dedicated dog adventure party, its bush tucker walk, its amazing Silo Projection movie, its history, its Quondong and bush tucker treats and its rather sweet stone architecture. Such a beautiful town. We both loved it.
Molong could learn quite a bit from the Silo Projection. Just divine.
Gorgeous can park too.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Streaky Bay
12 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Are we there yet? The words of Alison Leister ring in our ears as we make our way to beautiful Streaky Bay. It’s been a misty rainy drive from Quorn. Happy for the rain in drought stricken SA! Streaky Bay once a whaling area, now famous for its whiting and gorgeous calm ocean bays with views to die for. Streaky Bay sees us camped on the beach ( caravan park) and a visit to the gorgeous old pub for an afternoon wine, cheese n wine on the foreshore , fish n chips in the camp kitchen , water bottles and early early bed. Reading the beautiful work of Unsettled by Kate Grenfell as we journey. Loving the free life of travels together. So specialBaca lagi
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3 suka
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Fowlers Bay
13 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Destination Fowlers Bay is a little more remote and off the beaten track. It has a magnificent jetty with pristine waters and is the playground for migrating whales. The bay is sheltered by huge sand dunes which threaten to swallow the small coastal township. It’s got quite a history, from whaling to sheep farming to fishing and thankfully now eco tourism. We had a beautiful night chatting to fellow travellers around a camp fire and revelling in the calm quiet beauty of this magical spot.
Sometimes you stumble upon a place that speaks to your soul…Baca lagi
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4 suka
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52 K Peg The Nullarbor
14 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
We leave the haystack seaweeds and turquoise waters of Fowlers Bay and as we do a perfect rainbow forms in the sky. We’ve had a beautiful time here and it’s picturesque scenery, it’s extraordinary history and new found friendships have left an indelible mark. Today we start the road of the treeless plain, The Nullarbor! We drive along the jaw-dropping Bunda Cliffs, and drive across this very famous road where Australia's southern edge drops dramatically to the sea! We stop at one of the lookouts along the Nullarbor National Park, in awe of the 90m (300ft) high, 200km (124mi) long Bunda Cliffs, the longest line of sea cliffs in the world. We stop at the Head of the Bight Whale Watching centre. At this unique geographical spot, towering sand dunes meet a sheer line of 90m limestone cliffs. In the sheltered waters of the bay below, Southern Right Whales come to frolic, mate , play and give birth to their babies. Something in your spirit soars something in your energy lifts to see these whale creatures splash and spray. We are in awe.
Tonight we stop to catch our new found friends at 52 K peg and we camp right on top of the cliffs looking out to see. The afternoon sun sets west, the sea glistens and whales splash as we pour ourselves a wine , sit back, relax and enjoy. Its bloody windy and freezing cold!Baca lagi
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3 suka
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Eucla and Fraser Range Station
15 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
OMG it was freezing cold last night and even colder this morning on the Bight. The icy cold wind was blasting unrelentingly from the inland and battered our camp all night. This morning we were so cold it was painful packing up our gear, our hands and fingers hurt so much. Needless to say we were away early, warming ourselves up in the car. It would be a longer drive today, some 680 kms to Fraser Range Station, which is half way between Norseman and Balladonia, 100km east of Norseman and Eucla Station is on the way. We ventured out at Eucla, quite brave given the cold. Rugged up with four layers, beanies and gloves, we walked to the old Telegraph Station and then the 2 kms to the old jetty beach. So beautiful. The sun came out, the water sparkled, we made sponge sculptures, collected flotsam washed in by the sea and laughed at the galahs who in turn laughed at us. Finally warmed up after our walk we continue west.
As we get closer to Fraser Range we notice how the Nullarbor has changed. The area is covered by gorgeous eucalyptus forest salmon gums. The vegetation is now dense and granite hills begin to pop up. It’s along this range of hills that we come to Fraser Range Station. The Station was originally founded by John and Alexander Forrest on their expedition to Adelaide in 1870 and first settled by the Dempster brothers in 1872 making it the first station to be founded on the Nullarbor Plain. It’s on these grassy flats surrounded by dense forest, that shepherds moved sheep each week, over 110 years ago, from flat to flat to eventually end up back at the Fraser Range Homestead for annual shearing. Now it’s mainly cattle which roam free and are eventually trapped with water which is scarce in these parts ( the unsalty kind)!
We joined the Sunday roast dinner in the old stone kitchen, and made some lovely new acquaintances. Each day and night so different from the previous.Baca lagi
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3 suka
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Esperance
16 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Today we drive the remainder of the Nullarbor Plain in amongst the Salmon Gums to Esperance. Esperance with its gorgeous white sands and turquoise waters. Here we walked and read stories of early pioneers outside the post office art scape. It was a time to replenish stock and do some domestics before our trip north. You know all those things like shopping, washing, pharmacies, fuel etc. Maybe a little indulgent shopping as well!
We have decided to skip Cape Le Grand and head north as the distances we need to cover will be tight. Another day, another roadie!Baca lagi
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5 suka
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Broad Arrow
17 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
We were comfortable with our executive decision last night as we poured over our maps and sadly realised we would not have time for Cape Le Grand on this trip. It was important to head north for two reasons. 1. The weather was about to get very wet and that’s not much fun in a swag and 2. We still had 19 hours of driving to get to Exmouth in 5 days. The distances are vast, the roads are long and driver fatigue is a real thing!
Kalgoorlie is a great place to stop and have a stretch and just a quick ginger beer at the iconic Kalgoorlie pub with its scantily dressed bar girl as we decide we can push on another bit. Out of the main tourist drag we head to the ghost town of Broad Arrow. Once the set of a movie called The Nickel Queen and a thriving gold town of 2400 people, 8 pubs, 2 banks and many buildings. Now only the Broad Arrow Pub (tin shack) and a few houses survive. They let us camp in front of the pub. A beautiful crimson sun sets as we set up camp , light our camp fire and open a juicy red! Life on the road is bliss.Baca lagi
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6 suka
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Characters of the outback.
17 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
In less than 24 hours, we’ve been touched by the most incredible souls.
At The Broad Arrow, the owners welcomed us to camp out front of their old pub — no hesitation, just kindness. Their daughter had been tragically injured when a massive mine truck failed to give way, her car rolling off the road. They shut the pub for months to move to Perth and be by her side. She’s home now, doing okay, and the pub’s doors are open once more — stronger than ever.

Then there was Steve and Claire, the heart and soul behind the one and only Menzies Café. Over coffee, they shared their story — love, loss, resilience. Claire’s late husband was a trucker from Queensland who dreamed of an outback life. When he passed, she was left with nothing from his $2 million estate. So she bought a caravan, headed west, and rebuilt her life. Now, she and her new partner run the café, walls covered in tributes to her late husband. Could they talk! Could they Ever!

At the Gwalia Museum, a volunteer with a heart of gold spent an hour chatting with us — sharing history, stories, and pure warmth. She radiated kindness.

And finally, the tradesman outside the Edgar J. Hoover House, who stopped to talk about the unique “pointed paintwork” on the old bricks. Married there just a week ago, he fossicks for gold with his new wife — quite lucratively, he laughed. A man with stories, a hobby that glitters, and a past life as a wedding photographer — he even snapped a photo of us before driving off into the sun.

Everywhere we stop, we find these threads of humanity — strength, love, loss, laughter.
This journey isn’t just across a continent — it’s through the hearts of the people who live here.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Gwalia
18 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C
Just stopped for a visit in Gwalia, and honestly it was amazing. We are still riding the outback high. It’s not just a place — it’s an experience, one that wraps you up in red dirt and a whole lot of history. It’s a walk through time alright.
First stop: the Gwalia Museum — and let me tell you, it’s so much more than dusty relics and old mining gear (though there’s plenty of that too). We were lucky enough to meet Wendy, the absolute gem of the museum. She didn’t just show us around — she took the time to really share the stories behind the town, the people who lived there, and what made Gwalia tick.
Wendy had this amazing way of bringing everything to life. The old cottages, the steam engine, the mine manager’s office , the gardens— all suddenly felt like parts of a living story. Absolute highlight.
One of the most moving parts for us was learning about the horses that worked deep underground in the Sons of Gwalia mine. Real, strong, stoic animals that hauled heavy loads in dark, narrow shafts — day after day and lived underground! OMG
Wendy shared how these horses were lowered into the mines and sometimes lived most of their lives underground, playing a massive role in keeping the gold flowing. It’s something you don’t often think about — but those horses were as much a part of the town’s lifeblood as the miners themselves.
We were heartened to find out that when the mine closed in 1963 the miners were so enamoured with their working horses that they insisted they be given an appropriate paddock to see out their final days.
We also went into Hoover House, the old mine manager’s residence (yep, designed by future U.S. President Herbert Hoover). It’s now a cozy B&B with views that stretch across the open pit mine and perched precariously on the edge of a cliff. Imagine sipping a wine, while the desert light shifts over rusted iron and ochre soil. Scary as Fuck!

Afterwards we wandered through the ghost town itself. Like stepping through a time warp. Corrugated iron shacks, wood-fired stoves, sagging verandas — you can almost hear the footsteps of miners heading to work. Each cottage has its own story to tell of a miner or a family that called this home. Gwalia is rich with stories — especially this old part of town with its restored miners huts, complete with relics from yester year.
Anyone with an ounce of curiosity, and a love for history, and a soft spot for the weird and wonderful, should make the trip into Gwalia. Well worth the time. Loved it.
Next overnight stop is Sandstone with its neat wide streets and well tended tributes to mining history. The pub is momentarily closed but the Post Office cafe was an oasis. Such a beaut old building and two women doing a stella job providing weary travellers with the rest and treats they need before travels. It’s also a must stop. We are loving our outback adventures. Loving discovering new spaces, people and places.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Kalbarri
19–21 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
From Sandstone we drove a big day to finally reach the West Coast. We picked Kalbarri as it was surrounded by national park, rivers , beaches and seemed to have it all.
Unfortunately for us they experienced the worst weather in a year. Storms. Lashing rain. Howling winds. We barely got to see much of this gorgeous spot. Last night my life in a swag took on a whole new look and feel.
The rain came in sideways—needles of water flung hard by wind that was unrelenting. I was laying cocooned in my swag, sleeping bag pulled tight around me, the world outside a mix of noise and movement. I could feel the ground going soft beneath me, sponge-like, hopefully not soaking through. Too late now.
Each gust of wind made the trees groan and the tent flap on the ute pop in and out. Hope Jan was okay and doing better than me. Somewhere in the distance, the ocean rumbled loud and angry. My swag rippled under the force of the gale, zippers straining. It honestly felt like we were in a hurricane.
Sleep? That was a joke. I lay wide-eyed, counting the seconds between the rain squalls and the wind gusts ( 65 kms per hour)!Then it stopped. Should I make a dash for the toilet? Could I just open the side flaps to let in some air? I must have fallen asleep for minutes when I felt water sprinkling and running down the inside of the canvas and onto my mattress. I shifted, pulled the blanket tighter, tried to will my body to relax, long slow breaths, to let the noise become background.
The wind howled, the rain lashed and in that moment, alone and horizontal in the dark, I felt vulnerable and completely at the mercy of nature.
Eventually, exhaustion won out. The storm didn’t let up, but I got up. It was about 5 am. Dark, wet and blustery. Made myself a chai and sat in the camp kitchen waiting for first break of day. Needless to say we packed up in the wet, shoved everything in the Ute and hightailed it north to warmer drier climbs. Geez what a night.
Before anyone asks the answer is No! No skywalk, no gorge, no cliff top walks! No no no. Did manage to get a swim in that wild ocean though!!! And... got to see the daily pelican feeding show which was a hoot.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Kalbarri to Quobba
21 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C
From Stormy Rain to Rugged Beauty. We left Kalbarri behind under lashing rain, the grey sky and wet roads making for a well timed departure. The coastline disappeared behind us, blurred by drizzle, as we made our way north through the remote stretches of Western Australia. With each kilometre, the land seemed to open up again, raw wild and far far away from home. The sense of isolation growing deeper and more profound as we turn onto the coastal road for Quobba Station.
By the time we arrived at Quobba, the rain had finally eased, and we were greeted by sunshine, and the wild, untethered energy of the Indian Ocean. Waves crashed furiously against the jagged coastline, sending plumes of white water skyward through the blowholes — a dramatic, natural spectacle that made the journey feel instantly worth it. The power of the sea here is something else, untamed and hypnotic. We were delighted to have come here and see this magnificent part of the coast. So cool.
We set up camp near the water, at QuobbaStation. Here we are close enough to hear the constant roar of the surf but tucked protectively behind some dunes. The waters are a gorgeous turquoise and the Station is still a working sheep station. It was still cold though, the wind cutting, so we huddled around a campfire that night — so grateful for its warmth after days of grey sky and chilly weather.
As the stars were beginning to emerge in this vast outback sky, it felt wild and special — a remote corner of Australia where the land, sea, and sky collide in a truly spectacular way. Tomorrow will be the start of a completely different kind of adventure as we journey to Exmouth and join our kayak expedition.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Kayak Expedition Gearing Up
22 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌬 23 °C
Our new adventure kicked off in Exmouth under clear skies and a tinge of nervous excitement. Day 1 was all about meeting the crew – twelve of us in total, plus three guides who knew the Ningaloo coastline like the backs of their hands. Zoe (Jan's niece joins us here from Perth).Friendly introductions quickly gave way to business: the briefing.
There was a lot to take in. Safety first, of course gear– life jackets, wetsuits, masks, snorkels, fins, dry bags, camp mats, water shoes, rashies, sleeping bags – the list felt endless. The challenge? Fitting five days of living into two small wet bags. I reckon we packed and replaced several times before finally having the absolute minimum.
Once packed and loaded, we hit the road – kayaks strapped to the trailer, bags tucked beneath our feet and on the seats and in the trailer. We were all so excited before our next big journey. The bus bounced its way toward Cape Range National Park, where towering limestone ranges meet the reef-fringed coast. Once these ranges were part of the sea. We have a geologist on board with a wealth of information on all things rock. So fascinating.
Camp for night one was basic but stunning – red earth, open sky, and the ocean just over the dunes. We each set up our own tents, figuring out the poles and zippers with a mix of determination and comedy. Air mattresses inflated (eventually), we set up fast as the sun dipped and the temperature plummeted again. Nights are so cold.
Camp hosts cooked dinner and we were briefed on the plans for day 2. Introductions and getting to know our fellow travellers.
The night was freezing – the kind of cold that makes your nose go numb. But sliding into a warm sleeping bag after a big day was bliss. Under a canopy of stars, the dark emu was spotted! Tomorrow, we’d hit the water!Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Ningaloo Reef
23 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C
This morning, we drove out to Osprey Bay — the real start of our adventure. We unloaded the kayak trailer and packed everything we’d need for the next four days into our kayaks: food, water, gear — the works. Wow. So much stuff stuffed into each kayak. 9 kayaks in total. 3 Guides and 6 double kayaks.
The sun was out, and although the air was still quite cool, the ocean looked irresistible in its stunning shades of aqua.
Now it was time to gear up for our first paddle — about 4 km, fully loaded. That first 1–2 km into a headwind was tough. Definitely had a few of us wondering how we’d manage the rest of the trip!
At about the 4 km mark we had our first snorkel. The water was surprisingly warm, and what a reward: sea turtles everywhere! Big, graceful adults and shy little ones darting under rock ledges as we swam by like giants. It was magical.
Back on shore, we geared up for the second leg of our paddle — about 2 km. The first couple of kilometers were tough, heading into a stiff wind. Once you get into a rhythm and groove with your kayak buddy it’s a hoot.
We stopped at Pilgramunna Bay around lunchtime — and what a bay. Crystal-clear turquoise water, white sand, not a cloud in the sky, and no communication with the outside world — total bliss. Everyone was starving, and the food tasted extra good after all that paddling.
Another snorkel revealed a whole new underwater world — more coral this time, and schools of colorful fish. We even spotted a big ray gliding by.
Then it was back in the kayaks for the final 5 km stretch to our campsite. About 11 km paddled today. We found the perfect spot: a valley nestled between sand dunes, well-sheltered from the wind. Camp North Bloodwwood. We set up our tents, then relaxed with wine, cheese, and biscuits as the sun dipped low over the Indian Ocean. Dinner followed, and we all hit the sack early — totally exhausted, cold now ( evenings get really cold) but so happy. That delicious exhausted feeling you get after a full day of exercise and activity.Baca lagi
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3 suka
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Oyster Stacks and Whales
24 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We packed up camp this morning, loaded the kayaks, and set off for an unforgettable day on the water. Our first destination was Oyster Stacks, where we geared up for a drift dive. The sea life here is absolutely stunning—vibrant coral gardens teeming with fish of every color. Some of us were lucky enough to spot reef sharks gliding through the shallows—an exhilarating experience.
After our dive, we paddled on to Turquoise Bay, where we stopped for a relaxing lunch on the beach. The name doesn’t lie—the water here is a surreal shade of blue. Some enjoyed a second drift dive in the bay, floating over thriving reefs in crystal-clear water. Jan and I chose to soak up the sun and just enjoy a beautiful free swim in these pristine waters. It’s truly one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline we’ve seen.
In total, we kayaked 11 kilometers today before setting up camp at South Trealla. As evening settled in, we sat by camp and watched whales spouting just beyond the reef—a breathtaking and peaceful way to end the day. Moments like these remind us how special and alive this coastline really is and how lucky we truly are.
Twelve strangers set out on a kayak adventure… and somehow, it felt like we’d known each other for years. Shared stories, belly laughs, salt spray, and sunshine — proof that the best friendships can be forged on adventures.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Cruising the reef.
25 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
We’re starting to find our rhythm on the water — paddles in sync, gear packed just right, and the wind finally easing off a bit. With lighter conditions, today’s 10 km paddle along the western edge of Ningaloo Reef felt smoother, and very relaxed.
Ningaloo is one of the largest fringing reefs in the world, stretching over 260 km along Western Australia’s coast. Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, you can literally step off the beach and be snorkeling above coral gardens — which is exactly what we did.

We made two snorkel stops today: first at the famous Oyster Stacks, and later at Turquoise Bay. Oyster Stacks was absolutely teeming with marine life — schools of fish swirling around us in dazzling numbers. It was like diving into a living aquarium. The coral was vibrant in patches ( clearly making a comeback) and the visibility crystal-clear.
Turquoise Bay lived up to its name. Calm, warm water and an easy drift snorkel made for the perfect afternoon swim. Floating above bright coral and watching fish dart in and out of crevices. Colours of the sea and sand are spectacular.

We set up camp just above the dunes tonight — another remote, beautiful spot. As the sun set over the ocean in a blaze of gold and orange, we sat quietly, soaking it all in sipping wine and enjoying our cheese platter. It’s so great to know we now protect these pristine waters.

Strangers at the start. Mates by the end.
Twelve paddlers. One ocean. Endless laughter. FunBaca lagi
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3 suka
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Whale Sharks
27 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
What a spectacular day out on the Ningaloo Reef! After meeting at Tantabiddi boat ramp and the all important briefings, we set sail towards a morning snorkel site. We stopped in at Sahara's where we saw lots of reef fish, anemone fish and big coral bommies! We then met up with our pilot Duncan to start looking for whale sharks.It didn't take too long to find some so we geared up for a swim. There was quite a few around and we saw a good range of sizes from 4 to 8m today. We swam with 5 different sharks for about an hour today which is amazing!
The whale shark is one of the ocean’s most breathtaking creatures — a true gentle giant. Its massive body is beautifully marked with a constellation of painted dots and pale lines, like an artwork in motion. In fact a group of them is called a constellation! Despite their size, whale sharks move with effortless grace, gliding through the water as if it takes no energy at all, while we fin frantically to keep up.
They have tiny eyes which sit on either side of a wide, flat head, giving them a curious, almost shy expression. Apparently their enormous mouths — are capable of filtering thousands of litres of water — as they open gently to feed on plankton and tiny fish, never posing a threat to anything larger ( thankfully us).
Swimming alongside one is humbling. Peaceful, slow-moving, and serene, these stunning creatures command awe not with their power, but with their quiet calm beauty. These creatures really are gentle giants. It felt incredibly special to swim alongside them.
We then had lunch and some went for an afternoon snorkel at larkies Sharkies where they saw some stingrays and a reef shark. We finished up with some drinks and afternoon tea on the way home with some dugong spotting. The company was called Ocean Eco Adventures and ran like a well oiled machine. Very professional.Baca lagi
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4 suka
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Ninglaoo Reef to Red Earth
28 Jun, Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C
Today we said goodbye to the turquoise waters of Ningaloo, and our great new kayak friends and headed inland, leaving the coast behind for the heart of the Pilbara.
The landscape changed dramatically as we drove — from desert-like red sand dunes to the striking mesa rock formations that define this ancient region. According to our geologist, these mesas were formed thousands of years ago. They rise like flat-topped islands from the earth, remnants of a time when softer underlying layers eroded away, leaving behind these dramatic, table-like formations.
The scenery was breathtaking — raw and vast, with the rugged Hamersley Ranges unfolding around us in ochre, rust, and deep red tones. This land feels ancient.
We spent around seven hours on the road, slowly winding our way through the ever-changing terrain. We arrived at Karijini Eco Retreat just in time for sunset, the sky a blaze of gold, orange, and pink — a perfect welcome.
We set up camp under the changing light, surrounded by the beautiful white ghost gum trees and ancient stone. From sea to desert to mountains, it’s hard to believe all this beauty fits in one journey.
Jan in the Tommy, Zoe in a tent and me in the swag! Everyone digging in to prep food, set up and pack up. What a team!Baca lagi
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A Day in Ancient Karijini
29 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We wake to the sound of wind. But we’re not worried—it won’t trouble us too much today. Our plan is to walk the Dales Gorge, where we’ll be sheltered beneath ancient rock walls.
Our first stop is the Karijini National Park Visitor Centre. What an incredible place—rich with information and insight. Karijini’s story spans over 350 million years. It’s a land shaped by deep geological forces and equally deep cultural connections. The history here is layered: indigenous heritage, the pressures of mining, and the ongoing efforts of conservation. You can feel the tension between environmental preservation and resource extraction, a theme woven into the very rocks which surround us. “Prospectors have sought its resources and conservationists have sought its protection”.
From the centre, we set off along the escarpment, taking in vast views before descending into the gorge itself. The rock walls tower around us, banded like slices of tiramisu—layer upon ancient layer. In some, we notice the telltale blue glint of asbestos seams—a reminder of the land’s mineral richness and terrible hazards.
We pass giant paperbarks, flowering wattles, and pale ghost gums. The creek bed leads us along the gorge floor, cool and quiet. Eventually, we reach the waterfalls and a stunning swimming hole—an oasis carved by time and water. We plunge in. The water is cold and revitalising. Pure refreshment.
As we climb out and begin the walk back, the sun starts to dip. The colours shift around us—reds deepen, shadows stretch, and the landscape seems to breathe. There’s a magic here, ancient and alive. Karijini is not just a place—it’s an experience etched into the land and into us. You feel its spiritual energy all around you.Baca lagi
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5 suka
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Karijini to Millstream-Chichester Nation
30 Jun, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Leaving Karijini, we made sure to grab a quick shower—our last one for a couple of nights! It felt like a luxury before we headed off to rough it a bit.
The landscape changed dramatically along the way. We left behind Karijini’s dramatic gorges and towering escarpments, and the terrain gradually gave way to wide open grassy plains.
A quick stop at Tom Price, a mining town which had the best coffee. Here we secure a mine road permit so we could drive along the Rio Tinto Access rail road. Omg. Lucky we have the very dedicated Zoe with us to watch the induction video! About 20 km down a mine access road, we found ourselves stopped at a red signal. Welcome to Hamersley, Western Australia—Rio Tinto country.
Out here, their massive iron ore trains stretch up to 2.4 kilometers long (that’s 1.5 miles!), with up to 236 wagons ( Jano counted 244) each hauling 116 tonnes of ore. Fully loaded, these behemoths can weigh around 29,500 tonnes.
And yes, they’re driverless.
Which is fine—until there’s a problem. Then they stop. Completely. Like the one we encountered.
We ended up stuck at a rail crossing for 1 hour and 35 minutes, waiting for a call to go from site control all the way to Perth to approve someone to manually move the train.
Omg, what a wait. Remote travel really throws you some surprises.
Millstream Homestead greeted us with a sense of quiet history though. Once a thriving pastoral station, the homestead still stands, and walking through it is like stepping back in time. The stories of the early settlers and traditional custodians are thoughtfully presented—so much to learn and reflect on.
Nearby, we visited Deep Reach Pool on the Fortescue River—a wide, serene stretch of water that feels almost surreal in the surrounding arid landscape. Sadly, signs of a fire that swept through the park about a year ago are still evident. It was started by a lightning strike and has left a scar, burning much of the vegetation and some park infrastructure.
Still, nature shows its resilience. We hiked up to the Cliffs Lookout, which offered stunning views—an oasis amidst the harshness, truly breathtaking.
Tonight, we’re camping at Stargazers Campground, which feels fitting under these expansive night skies. We’re constantly in awe of this beautiful country and how quickly and dramatically it can change.
Dinner was an absolute treat—Mexican lentil mix loaded with veggies, spices, creamy avocado, cheese, and a dollop of sour cream. Delicious and hearty. We really do eat well on the road! And for the wine lovers among us—don’t worry, we’re still well stocked.Baca lagi
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BROOME OR BUST Pengembara
Sacred Pools to Ancient Carvings –
1 Julai, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
We tried our hardest to pack up early this morning… and made it out by 8:45am! Okay, not exactly the early getaway we hoped for, but still not bad.
First stop: Python Pool. And we couldn’t believe our luck—we had the whole place to ourselves. The water was absolutely freezing, but so refreshing. It felt incredibly special to share a swim with no one but the towering rock “gigantors” watching over us, like ancient stone guardians. We noticed cattle had been through recently—hoof prints etc.
Just as we climbed out, the peace was shattered by the whirring of a drone. Grrr… honestly, they should be banned in serene places like this.

From there, we took the Whim Creek–Wittenoom dirt road, winding through some of the most gorgeous scenery. Along the way: rugged escarpments, changing geology, and that unforgettable moment with a massive Brahman bull, complete with the biggest hanging… well, you had to be there. 😳
We passed landscapes that looked like basalt jigsaws, before stopping briefly at Pyramid Station, settled way back in 1865. Hard to imagine living so remotely back then.
Next up was the beautiful old town of Roebourne, rich in history and Indigenous culture. The locally run supermarket and art gallery were an unexpected gem—warm, welcoming, and full of character.
In the afternoon, we made our way to the Dampier Peninsula and Murujuga National Park. There, we joined a walking and talking tour of the ancient rock art with our guide, Pete “Coops” Cooper—absolutely brilliant. We were blown away by carvings of Tasmanian tigers, devils, dingoes, fish, and spiritual figures, believed to date back 20,000 to 40,000 years. It’s hard to grasp just how ancient and significant this place is.
In a funny twist, we bumped into people who know mutual friends and family back home. Small world, even out here in the remote Pilbara!

By late afternoon, we were back on the road, driving to our overnight spot at Sherlock River, a free roadside camp. The road trains thunder by every 10 minutes or so, but we’ve got a cozy campfire, and the river is just stunning. Swans and other birds diving, frolicking, and catching the last golden light—it’s moments like this that make the long days on the road so worth it. Living it and loving it!Baca lagi
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BROOME OR BUST Pengembara
Sherlock River to Marble Bar
2 Julai, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Today we woke up beside the serene Sherlock River. So many birds greeted us—swans, pelicans, ducks, plovers, and mudlarks. Despite camping right by the roadside, the night was surprisingly quiet.

We made our way into Port Hedland for a bit of a look around. The salt hills were absolutely stunning—massive, shimmering white mounds rising like man-made glaciers against the horizon. We wondered what it might be like to ski them or if anyone had !

We found a pleasant picnic spot for a late breakfast, with a view that was equal parts industry and ocean. Such a fascinating contrast.

Afterward, we took the Goldsworthy dirt road into Marble Bar—a beautiful drive on a good road, shared only with a few wandering Brahman cattle. About 40 km out from town, we spotted the turnoff to Dooleena Gorge. What a stunning spot to free camp (next time for sure!). As inviting as the water looked, I wasn’t game for a swim—crocs have made it here in recent years. Yikes!

In Marble Bar, we stayed at the very quaint and shaded campground. A quick visit to the museum, then off to the local pub for dinner—a perfect way to end the day.Baca lagi
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BROOME OR BUST Pengembara
Marble Bar to Wallal Downs Station
3 Julai, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Red Dust, Jasper Rocks & Ocean Breezes.
Today we did our best to pack up camp early at Marble Bar and set out to see the actual Marble Bar—the fascinating rock formation that gave the town its name. Though originally thought to be marble, it’s actually jasper, a beautifully patterned rock. Recent cyclones and floods have devastated the region, uprooting tall gum trees and depositing sand across the landscape. Despite the changes, we managed to find some jasper samples with Zoe’s help and admired their intricate patterns.

We chose an alternate route out via Bore Line Road, heading into Coppin’s Gap. The road turned to dirt, and the final stretch required a 4WD—complete with a tricky little creek crossing (well done driver Jan). The gorge itself felt wonderfully remote, although a few tourists with drones broke the stillness. I took a beautiful, crisp, and refreshing swim in the clear water. It was cool but invigorating.

Leaving Coppin’s Gap, we continued along Bore Line Road in search of the old township of Shay Gap. We’d just met a policewoman who had worked there in the 1990s. Now, there’s barely a trace—just remnants of a bitumen road hinting that a mining town once stood here. We were astonished by how completely these mining settlements are dismantled, leaving little more than memories behind. It’s a lovely spot nonetheless, ringed by rocky hills and great views—perfect for lunch (yet another of our trusty salad-and-tuna wraps, a consistent and appreciated staple!). I don’t usually write much about our meals, but today reminded me how yummy even the simplest lunches shared in stunning locations can be.

From here, we pushed on toward the coast. Our fellow traveller Zoe had secured us a night at Wallal Station, just behind the dunes of Eighty Mile Beach. It’s a free camp on station land, and you can hear the ocean from our tents. A quick stroll over the dunes brought us to the beach—a truly breathtaking stretch of coastline.

Later, we drove up to the caravan park at Eighty Mile to meet Zoe’s friend Jacqui for sunset drinks overlooking the Indian Ocean. She shared fascinating insights into BHP’s current desert wind farm and hydrogen power projects, and even gave us a little tour of the mining workers’ accommodation.

Back at our station camp, we rustled up a delicious Mexican-style feast—complete with fresh avocado, cheese, salad and sour cream. A delicious end to the day.

As night began to fall, a strong dew set in and the temperature dropped quickly. We snuggled into our respective sleeping spaces for an early night, lulled to sleep by the sound of ocean waves. This is our last night camping. While there’s a touch of sadness in that, I’m definitely looking forward to a real bed that doesn’t need setting up and packing down every morning.Baca lagi
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BROOME OR BUST Pengembara
Broome or Bust – Today’s the Day!
4 Julai, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
From Wallal Downs Station, we hit the road early for the final 350km stretch to Broome. The morning begins with a refreshing walk along Eighty Mile Beach — all to ourselves. The soft white sand, turquoise waters, and the treasure trove of shells are spectacular.

Back at camp, we enjoy a fresh fruit breakfast while the morning sun slowly lifts the heavy dew from our tents. But we can’t linger too long — we’ve got a sunset sail booked in Broome, with pick-up scheduled just after lunch. Yikes, time to get moving!

Arriving in Broome, we’re delighted by its iconic beauty: white sand beaches, dazzling turquoise waters, and not a trace of its torrid pearling past in sight. We’re staying at Moonlight Bay Suites, just out of town, with stunning views of the mangroves and ocean from our balcony.

After a whirlwind unpack (and multiple loads of washing shoved into our own machine — the ultimate travel luxury!), we’re whisked away by the charming young Oscar in a mini-bus headed to Cable Beach. Our destination: the majestic Willie, an ex-pearl lugger, for a sunset cruise.

The trip includes scrumptious canapés, and of course, we can buy wine (yes please!). Once underway, the boom net is cast — inviting anyone daring enough to be dragged through the warm Indian Ocean. Great fun… until poor Jan gets stung on the bottom by a jellyfish. Ouch! A dab of vinegar helps, but only just.

Still, spirits remain high as we sail on. The sunset paints the sky with magical hues of red, orange, blue, yellow, and green. With sails full and the scent of salt air all around, we soak up every sound, sight, and sensation of the ocean.

Back on dry land, Oscar suggests a great Thai spot for dinner and even offers to drop us there after everyone else is dropped off — what a gem! The people we meet on this trip continue to amaze us with their kindness, beauty, and generosity.Baca lagi
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BROOME OR BUST Pengembara
Broome Day 2
4 Julai, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
A Day of History, Farewells & a Sneaky Art Purchase or two!!

Today was one for stretching the legs and stretching the mind. We wandered Broome’s streets under wide blue skies, digging into its complex and confronting past. White Pearl Divers of Broome by John Bailey has been my companion lately—a gripping, eye-opening read that doesn’t shy away from the raw truth. Broome’s “Wild West” history is both fascinating and infuriating, especially the brutal treatment of Indigenous people and the ugly, racism that permeated the era. What’s hardest to get my head around is just how recent much of it really is. It makes me very cross.

In between the history lessons and local stories, we turned our attention to the Tommi camper—our faithful home on wheels. It got a good clean-out and a bit of a sprucey wash ready to hand over to Rod (Jan’s brother-in-law), who’ll be continuing the Tommi camper adventure up north-east. It’s a strange feeling—closing the chapter on the camping leg of our journey. There’s something final about packing away the folding chairs and rolling up the last dusty camp mats.

We’re flying to Perth tomorrow, so tonight was all about packing things into bags in order to fit them neatly on plane . We complete this part of our journey with dinner and catch-up drinks at Matso’s with Rod. And yes… we may have slipped into the Black Stump Gallery and emerged with a “souvenir” or two. Couldn’t resist. The art here is extraordinary .

Tomorrow, a new phase begins. For now, Broome leaves us with full bellies, full minds, and maybe a little red dust still in our shoes.Baca lagi
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