Long Way Home

July – August 2024
  • BushRoos
Saying goodbye to the Magnificent Seven it’s time to traverse the top end of Australia and East Coast home. Read more
  • BushRoos

List of countries

  • Australia Australia
Categories
None
  • 8.6kkilometers traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight-kilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
  • Hiking-kilometers
  • Bicycle-kilometers
  • Motorbike-kilometers
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometers
  • Car-kilometers
  • Train-kilometers
  • Bus-kilometers
  • Camper-kilometers
  • Caravan-kilometers
  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
  • Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
  • Motorboat-kilometers
  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
  • Ferry-kilometers
  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 21footprints
  • 32days
  • 289photos
  • 148likes
  • Yikes. At this point we've seen only freshwater crocs. But wait...
    Not to be seen yet...A very contemplative moodThis is the glossy magazine idea of Kakadu we had in our minds!I want a proper camer with a you beaut lens!Could sit and watch for hours.Brolgas dancing well almost.I am obsessed with these.They are like a glossy magazine coverCheeky cockatoo hiding above an annoyed hawk. Funny to watch.My heart in this country at the momentLoved this place.

    Yellow River Billabong Kakadu

    July 24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We made the mistake of thinking Kakadu was going to be all that those images on tv and glossy travel brochures. In fact we discovered that Kakadu is world heritage due to its diversity rather than its beauty. It’s the Dry season and the only time we can get vehicles in and around Kakadu. Around 80% of the park is considered lowlands and this means lots of scrubby vegetation and rocky hills. There is some major off road navigation required to get to those glossy magazine covers! Just sayin.
    Anyway today without too much effort we happened upon the Yellow River Billabong. Now this is glossy! It’s a massive billabong which offers scenic boat rides and walking platforms to view the myriad of bird and aquatic life. From dancing brolgas to whirling hawks, whistling kites, magpie geese, ducks, water hens , fish and crocs ( although didn’t see the latter). It lifted our already lifted spirits somewhat more to just sit and watch and listen. Spectacular.
    We continued down the Stuart Highway to Mataranka only to find the roadhouse (where Andrew had a great stay in 2007 while cycling with Craig) has been reduced to a run-down, dirty dump. We needed somewhere to stay for the night so we drove out to the spring which was also a big disappointment. It’s been completely overtaken by tourism and here you meet the Vans and the kids and the RAMs and the nomads and the karaoke and the music and the crowds all mixed up into one big uninspiring commercial venture. Poor Mataranka and what was once its pristine natural springs.
    Read more

  • Roper Bar and The Lost City

    July 25, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The Roper river is majestic! When you make your way through hot dry country and you come across an expansive river seemingly out of nowhere, it’s truly amazing. Imagine how those explorers felt crossing this river right here at Roper Bar! Imagine how they felt afterwards getting to the escarpments some 200 metres high with no obvious way down. It is the stuff of legends back in the day of expeditions and early exploration and we’ve become fascinated by it all.
    Another 150km on rough roads took us to the Southern Lost City in Limmen National Park. The camp facilities have been burnt out by an out-of.control ‘environmental’ burn it seemed but that’s good because no campers either. The walk around this natural rock formation is phenomenal. Andrew says in fact the best walk he’s ever done. Huge rock formations have been created by the weather over time and we walk amongst great towering pillars , majestic flowering gums, rocky outcrops with views to distant lost cities. We camp under the stars, by the light of the moon and wake to the first bird calls and slivers of light. Perfect. No vans. No buses. Nobody! Bliss
    Read more

  • Boorooloola

    July 26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    The Savannah Way is a long dusty, rutted stoney stretch of road to some of the furthest outreaches of the top end. As is our custom, we are up early and packed for travels which means we get to hit the road without many vehicles and hopefully we get to see the fauna before it rests in the heat of the day. Today we were pleasantly surprised. The Australian Bustard bird was active, we saw our first wild buffalo (with me getting a tad too close and having to run for cover), a beautiful monitor lizard, wallabies, wedge tail eagles and our very first Salty! Yes! Coming over one of the creek crossings and bigger than the 6”1 giant I live with, was a croc. He silently slipped away but kept his watchful eyes upon us and looked for all its worth a large log.
    We reach Boorooloola a once lawless town with high crime including duffing, murder and robbery. It’s seen some characters come and go. It’s now resigned to its quiet place as a gateway to the McArthur river and fishing adventures in the gulf. Upon reaching the tiny township of Boorooloola we were invited to the local NAIDOC ball! Not only were we invited but we were asked to judge the best dressed in all categories. What a night! I’m not sure how it happened but we were in for an interesting night with locals. Made to feel very welcome and felt like part of the mob. Andrew a tad out of his comfort zone judging best dressed, but his dedication and commitment to the job was stellar.
    Read more

  • Hells Gate, Burketown and Karumba

    July 27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Hells gate heading west is defined by two large boulders which at one time was the gateway to wild and lawless territory. It was a fend for yourself rather than be protected by the law kind of outpost. Of course in early Australian history many of the outback regions were filled with wild frontier adventurers, vagabonds, thieves and rebels. Glad to say that Hells Gate today is somewhat an oasis after a long dirt road from Borroloola. There we perched on the grass overlooking a billabong and watching the water birds in their evening tadpole feeding frenzy. The most beautiful & agile Kingfishers held the show. It’s place to have a cold beer and enjoy the solitude of the outback and plan our next few days.
    Having read Burke and Wills (Sarah Murgartroyd - absolutely brilliant) we were fascinated by the idea of going to Burketown. Fascination resolved with not much to say! In fact Burke did not even go within 100km of there. The town decided to bathe in the expeditions glory regardless! We did actually get to the actual spot of Camp 119 which was the northern most camp 30 miles south of where they capitulated & retreated. Say what you like about the buffoon Robert Burke but he (with Wills, Gray & King) walked from Innaminka to the Gulf & back in 3 and a half months. Yes, they walked 60km per day leading camels through 50 kinds of bloody hard country.
    On the way however we came across the majestic Leichhardt River and falls. ( He didn’t name it, rather I think it was Gregory named it for him. As a general rule explorers did not name places after themselves). Beautiful spot to admire one of these amazing northern rivers which included the Nicholson River crossing. Our deepest and longest crossing yet.
    Now, the sea is a difficult place to get to on the Gulf ( as Burke discovered) so Andrew suggested destination Karumba! It is the only place you can get right to the sea edge in the gulf country. What better way to do this than at the Sunset Tavern watching the sun set over the Arafura Sea in the Gulf of Carpentaria. How amazing.
    Read more

  • Queensland

    July 30, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Imagine our surprise to hit the tropical north and it’s freezing cold! Yep. We both reached immediately for our long sleeves. No amount of rainforests, waterfalls or rolling green hills could quell our shock at this temperature drop. What is seriously going on?
    Arriving in the old township of Ravenshoe we found the fire going in this big old iconic Aussie pub and that would do us for the night. The Ravenshoe Hotel in the Atherton Tablelands is the highest pub in QLD standing at an elevation of 916m. Andrew just loves these old establishments and I must admit I’ve grown quite fond of the stories they tell of times long ago and characters who visit them. The Ravenshoe has maintained some of its old world charm with a great wooden staircase, original floorboards ( now sagging a bit) , French doors and extensive wide verandah. The old dining room had a roaring fire, tables set with silver, curtains that look for all the world like elaborate bedspreads and some charming restauranters. Still in shock from the cold we snuggled up together in the quaint old tv room with its antique sideboards and beveled mirrors and watched a movie for the first time in five weeks!
    From Ravenshoe the country was picturesque but as we drive through rainforests the next day, clouds descended, it started to rain and the thermometer continued to plummet. Time to cover the swag and head for the comfort of a beach cabin in Cardwell and watch clouds roll in over the islands. Life is tough.
    Read more

  • Cardwell and the Cassowary Coast

    July 31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    Time to park the old red Ute under cover and take a break from driving. Andrew remembered Cardwell as a picturesque little place not as busy as Mission Beach ( up the road )! It IS a picturesque little place with gorgeous views to Hitchinbrook Island. Here although we were cold , we were able to dodge some rain, drink some margaritas, walk and just relax ( isn’t that what holidays are about?? ). Except if you are woken up by the Curly Curlew Call. Anyone who has heard this bird shrill in the dead of night knows what I’m talking about here. Like a piercing continuous screeching at 12 am, 1 am, 2 am and finally maybe stopped around 3 am or were we so dog tired that we blocked it out and fitfully slept!
    Surrounding this area is sugar cane country. Stretching almost 6km out to sea from Lucinda is the Offshore Sugar loading jetty. We did go for a drive to check it out. Apparently longest jetty in the southern hemisphere. I’m sure it’s an amazing engineering feat!
    From sugar cane country we drive high into the world heritage listed rainforest country. On this drive, lazy cattle sleep on roads and give way to bush turkeys darting into thickets and lush forests hiding the elusive cassowary ( which sadly we didn’t see).
    Wallaman Falls are the highest, permanent, single-drop waterfall in Australia. This is part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, home to some of the oldest rainforests on earth and many endangered plants and animals. It literally takes ones breath away when you see it and I could not resist the temptation to walk down it ( the walk back up is a killer ) and it was worth every step. Just spectacular.
    A quick stop for a beer at the pub with no beer and check out the inspirational mosaic mural. 42 metres of it.
    Read more

  • Townsville and a hidden treasure!

    August 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Townsville is where a little bit of city meets a lot of country and makes for a gorgeous laid back place for a day or two. We experienced the BEST margaritas EVER at the tequila bar overlooking the ocean on The Strand. I discovered that Townsville folk are up early ( before 6) and everyone is moving to the rhythm of the sea. Walking dogs, walking, running, swimming and generally just moving about. A walk to Kissing Point to discover Townsville’s history in the wars and it is beautifully preserved and presented. Then to the dizzy heights of The Castle ( next time we will walk it), with 360 degree views of Townsville and surrounds. Pretty stunning. Definitely coming back to laid back Townsville and those ‘tekilla’ drinks.
    Heading south we stop at Bowen which has sprawled as a coastal development since Andrew was here last ( 10 years ago). The big old beautiful pub is still there and we had a beer for old times sake. But, we’ve discovered that many of these big old pubs don’t provide accommodation and frankly both of us are swagged out!
    Later that day we stumble into a hidden gem just a little further south at a place called Hideaway Bay. This is where the forest meets the sea surrounded by a back drop of green hills and mountains. This is where palms reach out to kiss the ocean and sun sets wrap you up in their splendour. It’s just breathtakingly gorgeous…
    Read more

  • Paradise Lost

    August 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Not every day was bliss on our travels. On this particular day, Andrew promised that if we left paradise hideaway, he’d take me to paradise Clareview beach! Hmmmmm! With great anticipation we made our way to this ‘ paradise ‘ beach. It’s no exaggeration to say the camping area was crowded over with caravans so thick I couldn’t see the sea!!!!!
    “Oh not quite how I remember it “ said Andrew.
    “ Never mind. I’ll take you to this beautiful outback town with a majestic pub”.
    I’m a little nervous at this stage but when you are with someone who moves as fast as Andrew, you quickly learn to go with the flow.
    PLEASE check out the photo marked majestic outback hotel! No further explanation needed. That may have been the end of this story. But, it wasn’t !
    Andrew decided that a $ 5 swag camp out back was our best option, given the late afternoon and the great stretch of nothingness ahead.
    Apart from the ‘ majestic’ pub, all looked ok. Nice grassy patch. Toilets and hot showers!
    About 10 PM the first freight train roared by giving the pub a loud couple of train whistle blowing sounds! Hmmm. Railway line about 10 feet from camp! That’s ok. Shouldn’t be anymore!
    About 10:30 PM the waft began. I don’t mean the sweet scent of frangipani! I mean the smell of sewer. Stinking, fetid, fusty, malodorous, musty, noisome, putrid, and rank. This smell permeated the entire camp area making one nauseous and bilious. Doonas quickly over noses. It might disappear. It did not. It got worse! It persisted all through the damp dewy night.
    At around midnight the second freight train came rumbling through giving another almighty train whistle blowing! As if that was not enough a THIRD freight train came through around 4 AM. Andrew insists that there really was a majestic hotel in the town. I don’t think so. If anyone has ever had the misfortune of visiting Marlborough, you will know exactly what I mean.
    Anyway, Andrew got his just desserts. On a midnight run to the toilet that fateful night, he tripped over a barbed wire fence (as is his custom) and received a nasty gash to the knee.
    Needless to say we were away early next day and no more promises of paradise or anything majestic!

    But,wait until you see the beautiful Criterion Hotel we stayed at in Rocky! Truly majestic.
    Read more

  • Rockhampton to Hervey Bay

    August 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Rockhampton with its big, bold, majestic buildings was a treat. An easy afternoon walking along yet another Fitzroy River ( three in Australia. Popular bloke)named after the governor of NSW. Rockhampton itself is a name chosen in reference to rock formations in the river and to Hampton, England. Copper, tin and other minerals were the start of this towns growth and later came to include grain, sheep and cattle. Here we found the elusive majestic hotel Criterion. Staying here we were swept back in time to big wide verandahs, lace iron work , sweeping staircases, lead light windows, long window drapes and ornate old furniture. Rocky is a big beautiful country town and a great place to take a break before we head back to the coast.
    Andrew had heard that Stanage Bay was worth a look and it was quite beautiful. Some 80 kms from the main highway and dirt road into a tiny fishing space surrounded by sweeping ocean vistas. Not great for camping though. To be honest we’d had enough of swagging it.
    Thirty five years ago I had camped at a place called 1770 ( named after the year that rogue Cook landed ashore there). How the place had changed. From dirt road and fishing shacks to highway, shopping centres, van parks, people ( lots of them) and boats. It was still beautiful but busy! We had a gorgeous night at a fantastic airbnb overlooking the river. Here we tasted the best homemade tortilla chips with Mexican burritos as we watched sunset once again over the ocean. Divine. Breakfast the next day … three shots of Bundy Rum at the Bundaberg Brewery!! Yum
    Hervey Bay was a little treat catching up with old friends and sharing laughs and stories of times gone by, walking the esplanade and the big old jetty.
    Read more

  • Rainbow beach
    Rainbow beachBrunswick Heads RiverCutist garden coffee shopBrunswick BeachSunrise walkThis guy just wants our breakfast!Beautiful Brunswick RiverBrunsThose turquoise coloursWhale watchingSunrise goodbye

    Rainbow Beach to Brunswick Heads

    August 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Rainbow Beach just south of Hervey Bay seemed like a great place to stop for coffee and a stretch. It’s beautiful. It’s low key. It’s still a little unspoilt. We’d definitely consider coming back here.
    Andrew and I have two favourite places and both begin with B! Brunswick Heads is a quaint picturesque little seaside town with stunning beaches and a gorgeous river. Locally referred to as Bruns’, we’ve had many great times here and once considered buying and moving here. Way out of our price range now but will remain a definite favourite place to holiday. We now feel like we are coming home. The comfort of the known saw us spend a couple of nights here. Walking, swimming, eating, drinking, whale watching and catching up with family friends. It sparkled like a jewel with its bright blue sky, sunshine, and turquoise clear waters. Love it.
    Read more