Boudhanath Temple

He was early, as was I, but we had to wait for quite a while to get a taxi. When we did, we got stuck in Kathmandu's rush hour traffic, so it took us about 45 minutes to cover the 5 kilometres to Boudhanath Stupa. When we arrived, there was a real wow moment as we passed through the entry point and I got my first sight of the stupa.

Boudhanath Stupa is a major spiritual landmark seen as the embodiment of the enlightened mind of all the Buddhas, located in Boudha, within the city of Kathmandu. Built in the northeast of Kathmandu Valley and originally surrounded by rice paddies, the stupa gave birth to Tibetan Buddhism. It is filled with consecrated substances, and its layout as a massive mandala makes it the largest spherical stupa in Nepal and one of the largest in the world.

The present structure was most likely built in the 14th century, although Newar chronicles mention the construction of a stupa here as early as the 5th century. In 1979 the Boudha Stupa became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Following the 1959 Tibetan uprising, a large number of Tibetan refugees migrated to Nepal and settled around the stupa in Boudha. The Tibetan diaspora has given rise to the construction of over 50 gompas and Buddhist monasteries, restaurants, guesthouses, and artisanal businesses around Boudha. Along with Swayambhunath and Namo Buddha, it is one of the most visited pilgrimage sites for devout Buddhists, and also attracts tourists to the Kathmandu area.

Many visitors to the stupa come to do the kora, a meditative ritual rooted in Tibetan Buddhist tradition. It involves circumambulating the stupa clockwise while spinning prayer wheels, chanting quietly, and walking with full presence. To do it respectfully, one must dress modestly, avoid loud speech or intrusive photography, and observe the behaviour of locals. The early morning and dusk are ideal times to experience the stillness and devotion this practice embodies. More than a ritual, kora is a quiet act of connection to yourself, the community, and something timeless. It was quite a spectacle to stand and watch the Buddhist devotees.Read more