Pashupati Temple

We had a coffee overlooking the stupa, and then took a taxi to our second stop - Pashupati Temple. This is a revered Hindu temple dedicated to Pashupati, a manifestation of Shiva. Located on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River in Kathmandu, the temple is one of the oldest and most significant religious complexes in South Asia. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, it is one of seven monument groups in UNESCO's designation of Kathmandu Valley and is described as an "extensive Hindu temple precinct" comprising a vast network of temples, ashrams, inscriptions, and images raised over the centuries along the banks of the sacred Bagmati River. The temple, considered one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Hindus, is built on an area of 246 hectares and includes 518 mini-temples and the principal pagoda-style temple.

Beyond its role as a pilgrimage site, Pashupatinath Temple is world-renowned for its traditional open-air cremation ceremonies, performed daily at the cremation ghats along the river. Known as the most sacred site for Hindu cremation in Nepal, the Pashupatinath Temple cremation complex is where families conduct final rites according to ancient customs. Visitors are drawn not only by religious devotion but also by the powerful experience of witnessing the Pashupatinath cremation ceremony, which offers a rare and profound glimpse into the Hindu cremation process. This sacred ritual, deeply symbolic and spiritually rich, underscores why cremation at Pashupatinath Temple holds such cultural and spiritual weight in Nepalese society.

This is why we were here. Every day, families bring the bodies of their deceased loved ones to the temple's cremation complex, located beside the holy Bagmati River. Cremations usually begin in the morning and continue until dusk. Visitors can observe these rituals from across the river, where respectful distance is maintained. Cremation here is not just a personal ceremony but also a cultural practice that reflects Hindu beliefs about life, death, and the soul’s journey. The sight of the burning pyres, smoke rising into the sky, and mourners chanting prayers is deeply moving, offering a unique window into Nepalese and Hindu traditions.

It was quite a shock to suddenly see several cremations in progress, and another body being brought to the water's edge to be burned, albeit we were at a distance. There were hundreds of spectators, seemingly oblivious to the smell of burning flesh in the air. There were lots of families with young children, and there was something of a party atmosphere. Nobody seemed upset or fazed. Here, the ritual is a normal part of life. It's in stark contrast to the way we do things in the west. In the light of Mark's recent death, and the unattended cremation we had for him, I'm undecided as to which system has more merit.

We watched for a while and then crossed the river to attend the Pashupatinath Bagmati Aarati, a spiritual ceremony filled with chants, lights, and devotion. Every evening, as the sun sets over the sacred river, the air fills with the divine sound of bells, conch shells, and sacred chants. This ritual is not just a religious ceremony—it is a deeply moving cultural performance that connects devotees to the divine presence of Lord Shiva. Three priests perform the sacred worship using ghee lamps, oil lanterns, and incense. They move the lamps in circular motions, symbolizing the offering of light and life to the Divine. The rhythmic chants of Vedic mantras, accompanied by bhajans (devotional songs), create an atmosphere filled with peace and spiritual energy. An integral part of the ceremony is the Tandav dance, a powerful and symbolic dance of Lord Shiva representing the cosmic cycle of creation and destruction. Devotees perform this dance as an offering of reverence and energy during the Aarati, making the scene even more vibrant. It was certainly a spectacle. Whilst I didn't understand everything that was happening, it was clear that it meant a lot to all those in attendance.

Afterwards, we had to make the long walk back to where we had left our shoes (I don't think I've ever walked so far barefoot!). We were almost there when Rajan realised he didn't have his phone. I waited while he went back to where we'd been sitting. He was gone for a long time, and we were in danger of not being able to retrieve our shoes. The guy at the counter refused point blank to give them to me because Rajan had the ticket! He was about to lock the gate when Rajan finally appeared. Thankfully, he had the ticket - and his phone!

We then took a taxi back to Thamel and I walked back to my hotel. It had been a unique experience. I'm glad I witnessed it, but I won't be rushing to repeat it.Read more