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Solo Trip to India and Nepal
  • Happy Days Travel
  • Happy Days Travel

Solo Trip to India and Nepal

This is my first solo overseas trip since Mark died earlier this year. I'm excited to return to India and to explore Nepal for the first time, but it will be strange not to have Mark with me to share the experience with. Read more
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  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalTraveler

    Umaid Bhawan Palace and Museum

    February 6 in India ☀️ 28 °C

    From the garden, we went to a local restaurant for lunch. I didn't want much, so I just had a bowl of soup and a drink before we were off again to visit Umaid Bhawan Palace and Museum, the current home of the Jodhpur royal family. With 347 rooms, this is one of the world's largest private residences. It was built by British architects and engineers in the Indo-Saracenic style. It is named after Maharaja Umaid Singh, grandfather of the present owner, Gaj Singh. Work began in 1929 and was completed in 1943.

    The palace is now divided into three: the royal residence, a museum dedicated to the 20th-century history of the Jodhpur royal family, and a hotel managed by Taj Hotels. It was here that Bollywood actress Priyanka Chopra married Nick Jonas in 2018. Liz Hurley also stayed here in 2007 before she married Indian businessman Arun Nayar, in nearby Mehrangarh Fort. Apparently, it was the source of much scandal at the time. Locals couldn't believe the bride was 42 years of age! 😂

    As we headed back into town, Ramesh stopped at Mayla Bag Ka Jhalra. This impressive stepwell was built in 1775. There is a reservoir across the road which feeds it. Just as we arrived, the fountains started going, something which Ramesh assured me was a very rare occurrence.

    Ramesh and I parted company at the Clock Tower, after he had tried to take me to a shop, no doubt to be subjected to some heavy-handed sales techniques. I realise he has to make a living, but I was having none of it! I tipped him as he's been a great guide, but advised him to cut out the sales call in future, unless the customer specifically wanted it.

    I made my way to MV Spices to enquire about a cooking class. This business, run by a mum and her seven daughters, has attracted quite a lot of publicity. Since the death of their husband and father, the women have endured a lot of prejudice and ill-will at the hands of the local males who control the spice market. I read about them online. They are the subject of a documentary that is currently being made. and have an Instagram account - spice_girls_rajasthan. I was keen to support them. In their shop, I met Priya, sister number 3. We had a lovely chat, and she took my number so that another sister could send me details of the class. 

    Afterwards, I walked through the market and the local shops, but it was crazy busy, so I returned to Sam's Art Cafe to seek refuge. I didn't fancy curry, so I ordered a cheese and mushroom pasta dish for a change. It wasn't the best. I had to eat it in the dark because there was a power cut, so I obviously ate the chillies that were in the dish that I couldn't see. It blew my head off! So much so, I had to go across the road for ice cream before heading back to my hotel 😂.    Read more

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    A quiet day

    February 7 in India ⛅ 23 °C

    I was thinking last night about whether I really wanted to do the desert trip I had booked for today. I've got a cough and a cold (my first in years!), so I don't feel the best. I decided to cancel, so I messaged Rahul and then went for breakfast on the roof. Afterwards, I walked into the market to buy fruit and snacks, and to use the ATM. It was so quiet compared to last night. It was 10.30am, but there were very few stalls and shops open. Life here doesn't get going until later.

    Having bought what I needed, I took a few photos and made my way back to the hotel, where I spent the day working.

    This evening, I went up on the roof and had tomato soup and naan for dinner while I read my book.

    When I had already gone to bed, Neelam from the Spice Girls of Rajasthan messaged me to ask if I wanted to do the cooking class tomorrow. I said yes, so she will send a tuk-tuk to pick me up from their second shop on Nai Sadak Road at 11.45am to take me to their home, a twenty-minute drive away.    Read more

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    Cooking class with the Spice Girls

    February 8 in India ☀️ 27 °C

    I got up and went for breakfast on the roof. I had Poha - I think it's my new favourite thing! After eating, I worked for a couple of hours (it's newsletter day), and then got ready for my class. The tuk-tuk was arranged for me as we'd discussed, so I was at the sisters' house by noon. I met their Mum and two more sisters (there are seven in total) before going upstairs to the teaching kitchen to have my one-to-one class with Usha. 

    We made Paneer Butter Masala, Chapati, Paratha, Masala Chai, Biryani Rice, Daal Tadka, and the best Saffron lassi I have ever tasted. It was all delicious! During the cooking, I asked Usha about her family.

    The sisters are proud to continue their father's legacy. When Mohanlal Verhomal started his business in the late 1970s, there were no other spice shops in Jodphur. His pioneering idea was to teach tourists about which spices to use to recreate their favourite Indian dishes at home. He and his wife developed their own spice blends, using the freshest and most authentic ingredients. His name soon became synonymous with Rajasthani spice, and he gained recognition from international journalists and from the Maharaja, who granted him permission to sell his spices at Mehrangarh Fort. Mohanlal became known as the 'King of Spices'.

    Sadly, Mohanlal Verhomal died in 2004. He left behind a wife and seven daughters, the youngest of whom was only eight years of age. His brothers said they would take over the shop, seeing as he had no sons. Mohanlal's widow refused. She vowed to continue her husband's business and work to provide for her family. She has kept that promise to this day, and most of her daughters are now involved in the business in one way or another. 

    Over the years, they have faced physical and emotional threats. Within days of their father's funeral, rival spice businesses had set up in Jodhpur market, using similar names to their father's. These men bribed people who had worked for Mohanlal into giving them his spice blend recipes. They copied them all, using lesser-quality raw ingredients. The problems for the girls, who have become known as The Spice Girls of Rajasthan, continue to this day. 

    I re-visited the market shop after my class, so that I could buy some spices. As soon as I arrived, a guy selling vegetables opposite the shop started shouting about his wares, making it impossible for Priya and me to have a normal conversation. She told me that this happens all the time. He doesn't shout normally. He only does it when the girls have customers in the shop. They believe he is paid by their rival spice sellers. Also, while I was there, someone else pushed his vegetable cart in front of their shop, making it very difficult for potential customers to see and gain access to the shop. Priya said that the male-owned businesses on either side of them actively discourage people from patronising them. Local tour guides are paid handsomely to take tourists to other spice shops, rather than those belonging to the girls. How they deal with this situation every day is beyond me! I can only wish them all the best and hope that their business thrives in spite of the difficulties they face.

    Afterwards, I certainly didn't need to eat again for the rest of the day, so I went to buy a few essentials, took my laundry to be done, and then spent the evening posting and watching TV.    Read more

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    First sick day of the trip

    February 9 in India ☀️ 16 °C

    Well, today was a bit strange. Fortunately, I had planned a day at the hotel to get some work done. I slept fine, but woke up feeling incredibly sick and had to dash to the bathroom. I felt better after a shower, but as I set off up to the roof for breakfast, I realised I was still unwell and had to return to my room. I was drained. I just felt exhausted, despite having had a good night's sleep. I must have been bad because I did something I never do - I went back to bed and slept until gone 1pm. I spent the afternoon pottering around and drinking plenty of water.

    This evening, I went up to the roof to eat. i was hungry, but I still felt a bit iffy, so I ended up having pizza and fries - neither of which were very good, but they filled a hole!

    Today's photos are of the lady next door doing her washing on the roof, and loads of jeera poppadoms drying in the sun. I saw the ladies in the hotel making them yesterday. They insisted that I try some of the raw dough - perhaps that's what made me ill! 🤔    Read more

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    From Jodhpur to Amritsar

    February 10 in India ☀️ 18 °C

    I felt better this morning, but still wasn't 100%. I had toast and hard-boiled eggs for breakfast on the roof.  It seemed like the safest option ahead of two flights. I was joined by a squirrel - luckily, it was on the floor this time and not on my plate! The guy from the restaurant arranged a tuk-tuk for me for 11am. It was hours ahead of my 4pm flight, but it was check-out time, and there was nowhere else in the city I wanted to go.

    The drive to the airport took around 30 minutes. On the way, we passed kilometres of wall art. I managed to get a video of a small part of it. Jodphur airport was originally a military air base and only recently started doing commercial flights, so customer facilities are a bit sparse. However, I had a book to read, and the time passed quickly enough.

    I had a 45-minute flight from Jodhpur to Delhi, a 45-minute transfer window, and a 45-minute flight from Delhi to Amritsar. They served identical snacks on both flights - an unidentifiable bean roll and a chocolate muffin. I didn't eat the bean rolls 😂. With such a tight schedule, so much could have gone wrong, but in fact, everything worked out well.

    Once in Amritsar, I got a prepaid taxi from the airport to my hotel. Immediately, the city felt very different to the other places I have been. It sounds silly, but it felt less friendly, more remote. The taxi driver tried to fleece me before we even left the airport. Needless to say, I was having none of it. He didn't speak to me for the rest of the journey. He dropped me off round the corner from my hotel and didn't even get out of the car to help me with my luggage! Unheard of elsewhere in India.

    I have to say that the staff at the hotel were very nice, though, so I hope my first impressions are wrong!    Read more

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    First look around Amritsar

    February 11 in India ☀️ 17 °C

    I slept very well last night. It's very quiet here, and there's no window in my room to let light in 😂.

    I was in no rush to go anywhere, so I had a long, hot shower and made myself a coffee (it's the first room I've had since Goa that has a kettle!). When I went out to explore, Vicky, the hotel's tour man, was there. I got chatting to him and booked onto today's trip to the Pakistan border, which leaves the hotel at 2pm. He also recommended a restaurant to try the local breakfast dish - kulche - so I headed straight there. Inevitably, it's a type of flatbread stuffed with spicy potato and served with a chickpea curry and pickled red onions. It was tasty, but the curry was a little too spicy for me, even though I had it with lassi.

    After breakfast, I went to the Partition Museum, which opened in 2017. It is located in the town hall. Photography is not allowed. It has no exhibits as such. The museum aims to be the central repository of stories, materials, and documents related to the post-partition riots that followed the division of British India into two independent dominions in 1947: India and Pakistan. The information is presented in a series of information boards. The museum also focuses on the history of the “anti-colonial movement, the Jallianwala Bagh massacre, the Komagata Maru incident, the All India Muslim League and the Indian National Congress. The building which houses the museum was once the British headquarters and a jail.

    The story of partition is harrowing. The partition lines, drawn on a map by the British lawyer Cyril Radcliffe, divided the provinces of Punjab and Bengal into two parts, based on religion. As a result, millions of people found themselves on the wrong side of the border overnight. According to various estimates, more than 800,000 Muslims, Hindus, and Sikhs were killed in the riots that followed the partition between August 1947 and January 1948. Additionally, more than 1,400,000 people became refugees.

    The Government of Punjab founded this museum with help from the Arts and Cultural Heritage Trust of the United Kingdom as a way to memorialise those who were affected by the partition. Therefore, the museum documents the catastrophic history of migration, loss of life and livelihood through testimonies of the first-generation partition survivors and their lived experiences. The museum provides a platform for the younger generations to know the aftermath of what has been dubbed as one of the cataclysmic events in the recent history of the Indian subcontinent. The museum acts as a reminder of not only the millions of individuals who lost their lives owing to violence as a result of the Partition of India, but also one of resilience, as many individuals, despite finding themselves in challenging circumstances, turned their lives around and contributed in their own ways towards the cause of nation-building.

    It was certainly a thought-provoking and moving visit, particularly the accounts of the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. I'll write more about that when I've been to see the site.    Read more

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    On the India Pakistan border

    February 11 in India ☁️ 23 °C

    From the museum, I returned to the hotel to get ready for our trip to the border. There were three other guests - Dave from Seattle, and two young French-speaking guys, one originally from Casablanca and one from Lille. We had plenty to talk about as we set off with our guide and tuk-tuk driver, Vicky.

    Vicky stopped a few times during the hour-long drive to the border to explain aspects of Punjabi history. At other times, he just shouted over the traffic noise. I have to say that I missed some of what he said. What was clear, though, was his contention that all Punjabis hate Gandhi, almost as much as they hate the British! According to him, Gandhi was a weak and spineless puppet of the British, and no self-respecting, fearless warrior from Punjab could ever support his philosophy of non-violence. When I questioned him later about the presence of a huge portrait of Gandhi inside the arena at the border, he said that it was imposed on them by the national government and that the state government was not allowed to remove it.

    When checking the veracity of what Vicky said, an internet search revealed that Punjabis had a love and hate relationship with Mahatma Gandhi. While the moderate Punjabis followed Gandhi's style of non-cooperation and non-violent approach towards the British rule, the radical Punjabis, though in a minority, never toed Gandhi's line. I can only assume that Vicky's family were more radical than most. I couldn't find anything online to suggest that Gandhi's portrait at the border has ever been contentious. Rather, according to Harpreet Sandhu, author, heritage promoter, artist, and former advocate general of Punjab, "The portrait is not only a sign of patriotism, but also of immense interest for the daily visitors during the retreat ceremony and above all a significant preview of the Father of the Nation from across the border."

    Whatever the truth of the matter, the border ceremony that takes place at 4.30pm every day of the year is certainly a spectacle. Before it starts, women spectators dance enthusiastically to the raucous music being played through the public address system. The crowd is encouraged to cheer and chant by a very energetic soldier who runs up and down the length of the parade area. Ice cream and soft drink sellers move around the stands, urging people to buy. Children and adults alike have Indian flags painted onto their cheeks and hands. Even I succumbed and bought a flag for 30 rupees 😂. The atmosphere was incredible. The chants of 'Hindustan' were deafening.

    On the other side of the gate, the Pakistani crowd was far fewer in number. There were no members of the public dancing, but the spectators ahead of the ceremony were being entertained by a solo male dancer in traditional dress.

    Once the ceremony began, uniformed soldiers with whistles ensured that the crowd remained in their seats and were respectful of what they were witnessing. The rabble-rousing soldier kept up his role, though, and encouraged cheers and jeers where appropriate. As an outsider, it was a bizarre, ritualistic performance with exaggerated movements by the Indian soldiers being mirrored by the Pakistani ones on the other side of the gate. At times, the aggressive gestures and angry shouts reminded me of the All Blacks doing the haka before an international rugby match.

    I found the whole thing rather baffling, but I'm glad I've seen it!

    On the way back to the city, we went to a restaurant for dinner. Dave and I shared a couple of chicken dishes, a naan, and a jeera rice. It was all very good.    Read more

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    Heritage walk around Amritsar

    February 12 in India ☀️ 13 °C

    I slept well again. I woke up just before my 8.30am alarm. I had coffee and a banana for breakfast in my room, before venturing out to do a pre-booked heritage walk. The meeting point was outside the Partition Museum, where I was yesterday. The only other guest was a Canadian guy. I guess he was a similar age to me. He retired at 31 and takes four trips a year, four to six weeks at a time, all over the world. It's his first time in India. He only arrived a few days ago. We found a lot to talk about as we walked. Our guide was on time. He proved to be very knowledgeable about the history and culture of Amritsar. 

    After a general introduction to the city, we had a choice between continuing with the history of the city and its links to and disputes with the British, or discovering more about the architecture and culture of Amritsar. We chose the latter. So, our guide took us through narrow lanes and hidden streets that we probably would never have ventured down alone. It was fascinating to see the different styles of architecture, everything from Indo-Saracen style to Art Deco and Greek influence. Sadly, almost all of Amritsar's heritage buildings are in a sorry state. Our guide told us that none of them have been renovated, nor are there any plans to renovate in the future. Not only are these beautiful buildings falling down, but they are also covered in a mass of electric and internet cables, making it very difficult to see their grandeur in detail. It was sad to see. As my Canadian companion commented, it's as if we were seeing the city 100 years too late!    Read more

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    The walk continues

    February 12 in India ☀️ 18 °C

    Our guide led us through an unremarkable door to show us 'Little Jaipur', a beautiful pink building with incredible artwork and a temple upstairs where the walls were covered in 300-year old handpainted frescoes. Again, the entire place was in disrepair and will likely fall down within a few years.

    We were also shown a Sikh ashram below ground level that was created by the son of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism. 

    Sikhism is an Indian religion and philosophy that originated in the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent around the end of the 15th century CE. It is one of the most recently founded major religions and is followed by 25–30 million adherents, known as Sikhs.

    Sikhism developed from the spiritual teachings of Guru Nanak (1469–1539), the faith's first guru, and the nine Sikh gurus who succeeded him. The tenth guru, Guru Gobind Singh (1666–1708), named the Guru Granth Sahib, which is the central religious scripture in Sikhism, as his successor. This brought the line of human gurus to a close. Sikhs regard the Guru Granth Sahib as the 11th and eternally living guru.    Read more

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    The walk ends

    February 12 in India ☀️ 18 °C

    We walked through Amritsar's bazaars and ended our walk in front of the entrance to the Golden Temple. I went for a coffee in a nice-looking Greek coffee shop. I ordered a croissant, but they didn't have any, so I asked for a watermelon and feta salad. Again, they didn't have it. I tried a different tack and asked what they did have. It turned out that they had French fries - with peri peri seasoning or without! 😂 So, a portion of fries and a coffee it was!

    I then had an ice-cream that looked remarkably like a Mr Whippy, but sadly tasted nothing like it 😂.    Read more

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    Jallianwala Bagh

    February 12 in India ☀️ 22 °C

    Afterwards, I visited Jallianwala Bagh, the site of the infamous 1919 massacre, depicted in all of its gruesome reality in Richard Attenborough's 1982 movie, Gandhi. Anyone who has seen the film must remember the horror they felt when they saw that scene. It is incredible that it could have actually happened. But it did.

    The Jallianwala Bagh massacre, also known as the Amritsar massacre, took place on 13 April 1919. A large crowd had gathered at the Jallianwala Bagh, a public park, during the annual Baisakhi fair to protest against the Rowlatt Act and the arrest of pro-Indian independence activists Saifuddin Kitchlew and Satyapal. In response to the public gathering, Brigadier-General Reginald Dyer surrounded the people with 50 troops armed with bolt-action rifles. These were Gurkha of Nepalese origin and Sikh infantrymen of the Indian Army. The Jallianwala Bagh could only be exited on one side, as its other three sides were enclosed by buildings. After blocking the exit with his troops, Dyer ordered them to shoot at the crowd, continuing to fire even as the protestors tried to flee. The troops kept on firing until their ammunition was low and they were ordered to stop. Estimates of those killed vary from 379 to 1,500 or more people; over 1,200 others were injured, of whom 192 sustained serious injury. These included men, women, and children. The images of the massacre captured at the time are truly shocking. Britain has never formally apologised for the massacre, but expressed deep "regret" in 2019.

    The level of casual brutality and the lack of any accountability stunned the entire nation, resulting in a wrenching loss of faith of the general Indian public in the intentions of the United Kingdom. The attack was condemned by the Secretary of State for War, Winston Churchill, as "unutterably monstrous", and in the UK House of Commons debate on 8 July 1920 Members of Parliament voted 247 to 37 against Dyer. The ineffective inquiry, together with the initial accolades for Dyer, fuelled great widespread anger against the British among the Indian populace, leading to the non-cooperation movement of 1920–22, and the eventual independence for India in 1947.

    Visiting Jallianwala Bagh now is a thoroughly humbling and moving experience. You enter the park through the same narrow entrance that Dyer and his men entered. The very tiny blessing is that it was too narrow for the two armoured vehicles armed with machine guns that Dyer had brought with him to get through. Had it not have been, the number of casualties would surely have been even higher.

    The park has several galleries that vividly tell the story of the massacre and the events that led up to it. Graphic images are on display. The original walls that surrounded the park on three sides have been maintained. The numerous bullet holes are highlighted for all to see. The well in which many victims drowned when they jumped into it to try to avoid being shot is still there. In the centre of the park, there is a striking memorial to all those who died. There is also an eternal flame and a remembrance garden inviting quiet reflection.

    I found the place incredibly sad. I felt the oppressive weight of violent death all around me, something I have only felt a couple of times before - at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek in Cambodia, and at the World War One battlefields in northern France. I shed a few tears as I sat quietly in the garden. When I was approached for selfies as I invariably am when I'm out and about in India, I felt so ashamed that I was tempted to lie when asked where I came from. I didn't. And people couldn't have been kinder. Whilst it's still not my favourite place in India, I'm happy to say that my first impressions of Amritsar were very wrong.    Read more

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    The Golden Temple at night

    February 12 in India ☁️ 19 °C

    After visiting Jallianwala Bagh, I returned to the hotel for a couple of hours before venturing out again to get something to eat ahead of my evening tour of the Golden Temple. I didn't want a huge meal, so ended up eating in a snack bar inside a toy shop, believe it or not 😂. I ate to the soundtrack of Let it Go from Frozen as two guys tried to decide on a musical toy to buy for one of their daughters! I had a cheese stuffed parantha with channa curry and mango pickle with dried fruit lassi to drink. It tasted fine, but I was so stuffed afterwards I could hardly move! I went for a brisk walk, but still felt very bloated when I went to meet my guide, Ronit, at 7pm.

    Someone in Goa told me that my first view of the Golden Temple should be at night when it is illuminated. I'm so glad I took that advice. My first glimpse of the temple after passing through the entrance was breathtaking!

    My guide, Ronit, was pretty useless. He didn't volunteer any information. I kept asking questions. He answered a few of them. He seemed more interested in what I was doing with my life! He said he couldn't believe my age as I looked similar to his Mum and she's 40! I guess I should have been flattered, but I think he probably needs his eyes tested 😂. He was more interested in making sure I was following the rules than in being a guide. He insisted that all my hair was covered with a scarf, despite the fact that most of the ladies were wearing their scarves in the way I normally do. He told me where I could and couldn't take photos, but he appeared to be making it up as he went along! He rushed me along to the communal kitchen, and was disappointed when I said I didn't want to eat anything. It became clear that he has his evening meal there whenever he is doing a tour. It wasn't on the itinerary, so I wasn't expecting it. Obviously, we had to remove our shoes before entering the temple, but I didn't particularly enjoy walking barefoot through the veg prep area! All in all, we were in and out in 50 minutes. It was really a waste of money, but I got some good photos, and I will return in the morning to explore at my own pace.    Read more

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    Communal kitchen at the Golden Temple

    February 12 in India ☁️ 15 °C

    Having said that, I will talk about the kitchen here, as I don't intend to eat there tomorrow, either. Langar at the Golden Temple is a free community kitchen called Guru Ram Das Langar. It is open to all people — rich or poor, from any religion or country — and serves simple, vegetarian food at no cost.

    Named after the 4th Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das Ji, the langar follows the teachings of Guru Nanak Dev Ji and was organized by Guru Amar Das Ji, the 3rd Guru. The idea is to promote equality, humility, and selfless service (seva). Today, it is the largest free kitchen in the world, feeding over 100,000 people every single day — all seated on the floor together, showing that no one is higher or lower in the eyes of God. The Langar Hall is open 24 hours — all day and night. Food is always being cooked and served. You can come anytime and have a free meal. If you want to avoid the crowd, try going early in the morning (3 AM to 6 AM) or in the afternoon (3 PM to 5 PM). All food is vegetarian, simple, and healthy. It’s made fresh many times a day. You can have as much as you want, but you MUST clear your plate. No food should be wasted.

    Feeding so many people is a huge operation. There are two big kitchens working all the time. Food is made in massive pots by volunteers (called sewadars). There are no paid staff. For really busy times, or when there are not enough volunteers, there is also a chapati-making machine that works automatically. About 5,000 people can eat at one time. All visitors to the temple are encouraged to give a cash donation towards the running of the Langar.    Read more

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    Second visit to the Golden Temple

    February 13 in India ☀️ 16 °C

    I had a terrible night. I think I only got about four hours sleep. I was so incredibly bloated and uncomfortable. I'm just craving salad and fresh vegetables! Once I was up and showered, I asked Vicky to point me in the direction of a fruit and vegetable market. I've bought bananas from carts in the last few days, but haven't seen anything else.

    Armed with that information, I made my way back to the Golden Temple. I was just wearing flip-flops, so I was able to put them in my bag and avoid the need to deposit my shoes by joining a long queue to collect a sack! As I suspected last night, I was perfectly OK to enter the temple wearing a scarf over my hair as I do when visiting any temple. I entered and spent a very pleasant hour or so wandering around the temple complex. I took some nice photos. I avoided the Langar, and I didn't join the queue to see the holy book within the holy inner sanctum of the temple itself. Apparently, the wait time was about four hours. The people in the queue were crammed together like sardines in a tin. No thanks!

    The Golden Temple is the pre-eminent spiritual site of Sikhism and is one of its holiest sites. The sarovar (holy pool) on the site was completed by the fourth Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das, in 1577. In 1604, Guru Arjan, the fifth Sikh Guru, placed a copy of the Adi Granth in the Golden Temple and played a prominent role in its development. The temple was repeatedly rebuilt by the Sikhs after they became a target of persecution by the Mughal and invading Afghan armies. Maharaja Ranjit Singh, after founding the Sikh Empire, rebuilt it in marble and copper in 1809, and overlaid the sanctum with gold leaf in 1830. This has led to the name the Golden Temple.

    The Golden Temple is an open house of worship for all people, from all walks of life and faiths. It has a square plan with four entrances, and a circumambulation path around the pool. The four entrances symbolise the Sikh belief in equality and the Sikh view that people from all groups, castes and ethnicities are welcome at their holy place. The complex is a collection of buildings around the sanctum and the pool. One of these is Akal Takht, the chief centre of religious authority of Sikhism. Additional buildings include a clock tower, offices, a Museum and the langar. Over 150,000 people visit the shrine every day for worship. The complex has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.    Read more

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    More photos of the Golden Temple

    February 13 in India ☀️ 18 °C

    After visiting the temple, I went to buy fresh fruit and veg. I ended up with strawberries, peppers, tomatoes, oranges, apples, grapes, limes, and a melon. I also bought a couple of samosas and a deep-fried cheese sandwich (don't knock it until you've tried it!), as I didn't intend going out to eat later.

    Back at the hotel, I spent the afternoon and evening working and watching a bit of TV.    Read more

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    A last look around Amritsar

    February 15 in India ☀️ 24 °C

    I spent yesterday in the hotel working. By midday today, I had finished what I wanted to get done, so I went out for a wander. The city was crazy busy! Later, I went for something to eat. I really didn't fancy curry, so I ended up with a falafel burger in a wholemeal roll with hummus, a bit of salad, and a few fries. It was quite nice. When I was fed up with the crowds, I returned to the hotel to pack. There was a question mark over my bus to Dharamshala tomorrow. It has been cancelled for the last couple of days due to a lack of interest! It was finally confirmed that it would run at 9pm!Read more

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    Bus from Amritsar to Dharamshala

    February 16 in India ☀️ 13 °C

    I was up with my alarm at 6.45am. I packed my last few bits, made myself a coffee, and was downstairs in reception by 7.30 for Vicky to take me to the bus. There were two other people booked on the same bus - a guy from Mozambique who has been travelling for five years, and a British guy who was late and had nothing to say! 

    Vicky dropped the three of us off at the bus. It wasn't full, and it left on time. After a couple of hours, we stopped at a restaurant for breakfast. I had some fruit with me, so I didn't bother ordering anything. The decor was rather random 😂. During the second half of the journey, we began to climb. It wasn't long before we caught glimpses of the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas. The scenery was dramatic. The roads were mainly under construction! It made for a bumpy couple of hours! It didn't inspire confidence that we were being driven by committee for most of the journey 😂.    Read more

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    Arriving at Mountain and Moon

    February 16 in India ☀️ 21 °C

    Just after 1.30pm, we were dropped off at the Dharamshala Bus Stand. It was incredibly busy. I had arranged a taxi through the hotel I'm staying at, so I didn't have to wait long before Ramesh appeared. We had a 40-minute drive uphill through Mcleod Ganj to Dharamkot to my hotel Mountain and Moon. We passed all the main attractions that I want to visit tomorrow. I'll probably walk back down and then get a taxi up again.

    I often think that each of India's 28 states is very different from the others. Nowhere is this more true than here in Himachal Pradesh. As we drove, I felt like I was in a completely new country - it didn't feel like India at all. This is hardly surprising, as this is home to the 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile. It has been for over 30 years. Mcleod Ganj is often called Little Lhasa. I've certainly never seen as many Buddhist monks walking around everywhere. Inevitably, because of the number of tourists drawn here by the presence of His Holiness, there is a plethora of tacky souvenir shops and stalls, and a range of restaurants offering every cuisine you can think of. It certainly looked very colourful through the taxi windows! 

    As we climbed higher (to an altitude of 1881 metres), the views were spectacular. The hairpin bends and sheer drops were a bit hairy!

    Ramesh dropped me off a little way from my hotel, as it's pedestrian access only. Luckily, the guy from the hotel was waiting to carry my case for me. I was glad, as the steps down to my accommodation were very uneven and covered in loose shingle. Once there, he showed me to my second-floor room. I had been given a free upgrade to a room on the sunny side of the building.

    I dropped my bags and went in search of somewhere to eat. I didn't have to go far. Less than a minute's walk away, there is a Tibetan-run restaurant. I sat on the deck in the sunshine and enjoyed butter chicken, jeera rice, and chapatti, washed down with a banana lassi. It was very good. Sadly, it will be my only visit as the owners are going away for ten days for Tibetan New Year.

    After my meal, I returned to the hotel and sat in the sunshine on my balcony. I stayed there until the sun dropped behind a nearby building and the temperature suddenly plummeted! It's currently 4 degrees! I'm just not used to the cold! Tomorrow, the forecast is for a cloudy day with a high of only 11! OMG!!    Read more

  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalTraveler

    A walk into town

    February 17 in India ☁️ 9 °C

    I was soooo cold overnight! I was wearing almost all my clothes, and I had two thick blankets doubled up - and I still couldn't get warm! As soon as it was light, I got up and went out, figuring that I'd get warm if I moved about 😀.

    I walked in the direction Ramesh had pointed out to me yesterday, and came across Trek and Dine which, thankfully, was open and serving breakfast. I ordered the house breakfast and a black coffee. On the menu, it said the breakfast consisted of an omelette and toast. It didn't mention the mountain of fried potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, and onions in a barbecue sauce that came with it! It was good, but there was no way I could finish it! I was just glad to be warm, to be honest 😂.

    After breakfast, I headed off on foot to Mcleod Ganj. According to Google maps, it should have taken 26 minutes, but I must have gone wrong somewhere as it took me nearly an hour! Most of it was downhill, but it was very steep with lots of loose stones, so I admit I was taking it slowly.    Read more

  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalTraveler

    A ride on the Skyway

    February 17 in India ☁️ 11 °C

    Once I arrived in town, it was still too early for a lot of the shops to be open, so I decided to go down the mountain on the recently-opened, Tata-owned cable car. Security was tight and there were loads of staff standing around. I was the only passenger. I paid 800 rupees for a round trip. On the information board, it said 768 rupees (random!), but that obviously didn't mean anything 😊.

    When I'd passed through the second bag check, I was allowed on. The 1.8-km aerial ropeway alledgedly connects Mcleodganj to Dharamshala around 10 minutes. It took longer, not that it matters. The views were spectacular, despite the morning cloud. 

    At the bottom, I got off, thinking I would explore Dharamshala for a while, only to find that I was still halfway up the mountain and a long way from the city. I took a couple of photos and went to get back on the cable car. I was told, however, that I would have to wait as it was closed for routine maintenance! Only in India!! 😃 

    After 40 minutes, they allowed me to go back to Mcleod Ganj! On the way up, I passed one other car with a couple of passengers in it. I can't imagine they're making any money!    Read more

  • Happy Days TravelSolo Trip to India and NepalTraveler

    The Dalai Lama Temple

    February 17 in India ☁️ 13 °C

    Back in town, I walked down to The Dalai Lama Temple, formally known as the Tsuglagkhang Complex. It is a sacred site, serving as the 14th Dalai Lama's residence and the spiritual centre for Tibetan exiles. Open daily from sunrise to sunset, it features the Namgyal Monastery, the Dalai Lama’s private monastery, a museum, and serves as a major, serene pilgrimage site with, prayer wheels, and views of the Dhauladhar mountains. Visitors can participate in morning prayers, spin prayer wheels, and walk the circumambulation path, which is adorned with mani stones and prayer flags. The site is characterised by its peaceful, meditative, and, intellectually stimulating environment. There were certainly lots of people praying, meditating, and studying quietly as I walked around.

    I was struck by the scale of it. It felt like a village within the town with lots of shops, a café, and huge accommodation blocks. Sadly, I didn't see His Holiness - just lots of Buddhist monks who looked remarkably like him 😊.    Read more

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    A monk's prostrations

    February 17 in India ☁️ 14 °C

    After visiting the temple, I walked back into town and went for a coffee. There were lots of monks around, who all seemed to be shopping. They were weighed down with numerous bags and packages - apparently food and gifts. I don't know if this was normal, or special shopping because Losar, Tibetan New Year, celebrations start tomorrow.

    Later, I decided to walk to the Tibetan Museum, 1.5 kilometres or a 25-minute walk away, according to Google maps. Again, I obviously went wrong because it took me longer than that! On the way, I passed a monk doing his prostrations on the side of the road. These are a profound Buddhist practice of bowing fully to the ground, symbolizing the surrender of ego, cultivation of humility, and deep respect for the Three Jewels (Buddha, Dharma, Sangha). This ritual purifies negative karma involves full-body stretches, often repeated to accumulate merit.
    Prostrations are used to slice through false pride, cultivate humility, and physically prepare the body and mind for meditation.

    The monk I saw was practicing Gyangchag, a full prostration where the body is stretched out full length on the floor, arms extended. It involves touching hands to the crown, forehead, throat, and heart, representing the purification of body, speech, and mind before lying down, putting the hands together above the head as if in prayer, standing up, taking a single step forward, and repeating the whole process over and over again. He was making very slow progress down the hill. I took a very quick video, but felt like I was intruding on a very private act - even though he was doing it on a public road.

    I eventually reached the museum, only to find it was shut! I had checked online. It said it would be closed from tomorrow for the holiday. However, the note on the door said it was closed today to get ready for the New Year closure! Only in India!! 😀.

    Having done over 20,000 steps already today, there's no way I was going to attempt to walk back up the hill, so I messaged Ramesh and he came to get me 😊.

    I managed to buy a small wholegrain seeded loaf and some sliced cheese today, so I had that for my meal tonight.    Read more