France Fall 2017

September - October 2017
A 22-day adventure by Heather Read more
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  • Day 18

    Bonaparte, beaches & breathtaking views

    October 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Hello from Corsica, an island in the western Mediterranean that is actually part of France although it is geographically closer to Italy. The main language here is French but many still speak the Corse dialect as it is taught in school. Much of the island is very mountainous and rugged with the major towns located on the coast via very windy and narrow roadways. Transportation planning desperately needed.

    After a rainy visit to Montpellier on Saturday we took a quick hop on -
    a Volotea flight ( now renamed by Mac as Volunteer Airlines) to Ajaccio, the capital city of Corsica and the main tourist hub. We spent 3 very pleasant nights in a rather posh hotel in Ajaccio that Fiona had arranged. We were right on the ocean and spent the time strolling up and down the boardwalk to town, riding the hotel bikes around, swimming in the pool, sitting in the cafes , seeing a few sites and drinking aperitifs on the beach.
    Napoléon Bonaparte was from Ajaccio and so there are many statues, streets and restaurants named after the family and even a brewery. The fact that our waists were expanding, our wallets contracting and the restaurants seemed to be perpetually "fermé "we chose to visit a pizza food truck - which only in France- served us very nice wine!! We had a particularly fun meal on our second night at a family run establishment ( yup named Restaurant Napolean) . We were so happy with the meal and service that we invited the chef to join us for a drink. A number of eau de vie later........ he was regaling us with his stories and he and Jiggs were comparing notes on cooking game.

    Helen left on Monday morning for London as she had a Tuesday meeting she couldn't change but she's flying back today and we'll scoop her up in Calvi this evening. ( you can only do that in Europe when you need to pop home for a meeting.)

    Yesterday Mike took over the driving in our rented Peugeot and we took a very scenic but hair-raising drive north on the Corsican roads . Jiggs sat in the back and enjoyed Mike's discomfort having spent the first week at the helm of Le Boat. The Peugeot actually responds a lot better than The boat. The roads here are narrow and twisted like bad varicose veins.
    Last night's hotel was in the small village of Piana , up in the hills and with spectacular views looking out over the ocean and surrounding mountains. We drove past Piana to the seaside village of Porto which was a mere 13 km further along what had to be for all of us the scariest drive of our lives. Sheer drop offs on one side and rock face on the other , wandering camera-toting tourists, the occasional goat and a tour bus. Very dramatic scenery if you had the courage to look up. The area is noted for the calanches or very narrow, steep-walled inlets which plunge dramatically into the sea. We stopped at one of the pull-outs and went for a hike to get some good camera shots. We returned to our small, simple mountain village for a lovely fresh fish dinner served by a very surly Corsican waitress. Good fish.

    Today we went back down the windy 13 km - easy , peasy, and took a zodiac ride out to see the calanches and the various grottos or sea caves on the coast.

    Tonight we're in Calvi at a restored Franciscan Abbey. Not too austere fortunately.
    That's it for now. Tomorrow we head to the North coast in search of more Corsican beaches. Fi and I really want to kayak.

    Love to everyone,
    Fiona and Heather xx
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  • Day 18

    More pictures from Piana

    October 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Couldn't upload all out pics on the last blog. Here are some from last night and today. Hope it's not too boring, but the scenery is really stunning, ocean and mountains - always the best combination.

  • Day 22

    Able was I ere I saw Elba

    October 8, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A fitting quote for my last blog as we are currently in the town of Bastia on the east coast of Corsica and across the water we can clearly see the isle of Elba, which sits not far from the Tuscany coast of Italy.

    After our time exploring the west side of the island and the calanches , we headed north to the small city of Calvi to rejoin Helen and then onto a very small village called Algajola - which is not pronounced at all as it looks. More like the garlic sauce aiola.
    We stayed at a simple but perfect little hotel on the ocean with a rather pirate-like proprietor. When we told him we were Canadians, he started yelling Viva le Québec Libre, Via Le Quebec Libre"". Mike completely ignored him after that. He did, however, get us sorted for some good site- seeing and Helen, Mike and I did a very enjoyable 4 hours hiking up to a couple of villages in the hills. The paths were well marked as are all the extensive walking trails across France . We stopped for a coffee from a cafe with magnificent views looking down to the seaside village from where we started.
    Our stop in Algajola also included a couple of swims in the ocean for Helen and I. Lovely sandy beaches and the water was definitely warm enough for an enjoyable swim even this time of year. We had some nice meals and toured the area in our trusty Peugeot . I've included a picture of Fiona's warm goat cheese and aubergine salad which was listed on the translated menu as " hot goat". We all agreed the area would be a great place to return to but perhaps slightly earlier in the season as many things are already shut down as things quiet down in Corsica for the winter months.
    Yesterday we drove through another charming sea side town - St. Florent where we made a crêpe and coffee stop and then drove through one of the wine regions.

    Last night was our last overnight in Corsica in the larger centre of Bastia. We stayed right down in the old town by the very busy port area. Bastia is one of the economic hubs of the island and the port is full of huge ferries that ply the waters between here France and Italy. The town feels more Italian than French and at supper last night we had excellent Italian style pizzas and salad with that buffalo mozzarella that seems more like cream than cheese. We ate looking over the harbour - we're going to miss that. The waiter was Italian so there was lots of emotional hand gestures and ciaos .

    This morning Helen headed out on the early flight to London. She agreed that the trip to Corsica was great except for having to hop home for 2 days. Lucky for her, She is close enough to easily return. Jiggs says he loved not having to shave for 3 weeks but can't figure out why Fiona won't kiss him. Fiona says she loved all the rosée wine and baguettes but they have played chaos with her wardrobe. Mike says he was glad to have returned the rental car in one piece after the exciting driving.

    We are sitting at the airport eating what Fiona says is the absolute worst food we've had since arriving in France - ah, tasteless airport food , the same the world over. We are sorry to leave this lovely island. The towns are old and interesting but have modern amenities . The views are stunning whether from the sea or from the many hill-tops. The people have been unfailingly surly - kind of this tough Corsican attitude thing- but they are very efficient . The weather has been like Mary Logan's sons-in-law , not too hot but reliable.

    This afternoon we fly to Strasbourg on "Volunteer" airlines for a quick overnight stop. The plan is to meet a friend of Fiona's for supper. Anne is a teacher from Nancy who Fiona stayed with for an exchange a few years ago. We are looking forward to meeting her and her family and having some escargot tonight. Tomorrow we leave France by train to Frankfurt for our flights home. Good thing because there is another General strike across France planned for Tuesday. Hmm, sound familiar Diane?.

    Time to get back. As always, the trip has been a great adventure. Thanks for traveling with us. I'll see most of you very soon. Signing off from Corsica.

    Love Heather ( Mom) with lots of input from Fiona.

    ""...........The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page........." Saint Augustine

    PS. "Able was I ere I saw Elba.": Napoleon Bonaparte supposedly said these famous words when he finally realized he had lost control over France and was sent to exile on the isle of Elba. However, it is unlikely he said this famous palindrome as he spoke French. But it is clever.
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