France Fall 2017

September - October 2017
A 22-day adventure by Heather Read more
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  • Day 22

    Able was I ere I saw Elba

    October 8, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A fitting quote for my last blog as we are currently in the town of Bastia on the east coast of Corsica and across the water we can clearly see the isle of Elba, which sits not far from the Tuscany coast of Italy.

    After our time exploring the west side of the island and the calanches , we headed north to the small city of Calvi to rejoin Helen and then onto a very small village called Algajola - which is not pronounced at all as it looks. More like the garlic sauce aiola.
    We stayed at a simple but perfect little hotel on the ocean with a rather pirate-like proprietor. When we told him we were Canadians, he started yelling Viva le Québec Libre, Via Le Quebec Libre"". Mike completely ignored him after that. He did, however, get us sorted for some good site- seeing and Helen, Mike and I did a very enjoyable 4 hours hiking up to a couple of villages in the hills. The paths were well marked as are all the extensive walking trails across France . We stopped for a coffee from a cafe with magnificent views looking down to the seaside village from where we started.
    Our stop in Algajola also included a couple of swims in the ocean for Helen and I. Lovely sandy beaches and the water was definitely warm enough for an enjoyable swim even this time of year. We had some nice meals and toured the area in our trusty Peugeot . I've included a picture of Fiona's warm goat cheese and aubergine salad which was listed on the translated menu as " hot goat". We all agreed the area would be a great place to return to but perhaps slightly earlier in the season as many things are already shut down as things quiet down in Corsica for the winter months.
    Yesterday we drove through another charming sea side town - St. Florent where we made a crêpe and coffee stop and then drove through one of the wine regions.

    Last night was our last overnight in Corsica in the larger centre of Bastia. We stayed right down in the old town by the very busy port area. Bastia is one of the economic hubs of the island and the port is full of huge ferries that ply the waters between here France and Italy. The town feels more Italian than French and at supper last night we had excellent Italian style pizzas and salad with that buffalo mozzarella that seems more like cream than cheese. We ate looking over the harbour - we're going to miss that. The waiter was Italian so there was lots of emotional hand gestures and ciaos .

    This morning Helen headed out on the early flight to London. She agreed that the trip to Corsica was great except for having to hop home for 2 days. Lucky for her, She is close enough to easily return. Jiggs says he loved not having to shave for 3 weeks but can't figure out why Fiona won't kiss him. Fiona says she loved all the rosée wine and baguettes but they have played chaos with her wardrobe. Mike says he was glad to have returned the rental car in one piece after the exciting driving.

    We are sitting at the airport eating what Fiona says is the absolute worst food we've had since arriving in France - ah, tasteless airport food , the same the world over. We are sorry to leave this lovely island. The towns are old and interesting but have modern amenities . The views are stunning whether from the sea or from the many hill-tops. The people have been unfailingly surly - kind of this tough Corsican attitude thing- but they are very efficient . The weather has been like Mary Logan's sons-in-law , not too hot but reliable.

    This afternoon we fly to Strasbourg on "Volunteer" airlines for a quick overnight stop. The plan is to meet a friend of Fiona's for supper. Anne is a teacher from Nancy who Fiona stayed with for an exchange a few years ago. We are looking forward to meeting her and her family and having some escargot tonight. Tomorrow we leave France by train to Frankfurt for our flights home. Good thing because there is another General strike across France planned for Tuesday. Hmm, sound familiar Diane?.

    Time to get back. As always, the trip has been a great adventure. Thanks for traveling with us. I'll see most of you very soon. Signing off from Corsica.

    Love Heather ( Mom) with lots of input from Fiona.

    ""...........The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page........." Saint Augustine

    PS. "Able was I ere I saw Elba.": Napoleon Bonaparte supposedly said these famous words when he finally realized he had lost control over France and was sent to exile on the isle of Elba. However, it is unlikely he said this famous palindrome as he spoke French. But it is clever.
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  • Day 18

    More pictures from Piana

    October 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Couldn't upload all out pics on the last blog. Here are some from last night and today. Hope it's not too boring, but the scenery is really stunning, ocean and mountains - always the best combination.

  • Day 18

    Bonaparte, beaches & breathtaking views

    October 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Hello from Corsica, an island in the western Mediterranean that is actually part of France although it is geographically closer to Italy. The main language here is French but many still speak the Corse dialect as it is taught in school. Much of the island is very mountainous and rugged with the major towns located on the coast via very windy and narrow roadways. Transportation planning desperately needed.

    After a rainy visit to Montpellier on Saturday we took a quick hop on -
    a Volotea flight ( now renamed by Mac as Volunteer Airlines) to Ajaccio, the capital city of Corsica and the main tourist hub. We spent 3 very pleasant nights in a rather posh hotel in Ajaccio that Fiona had arranged. We were right on the ocean and spent the time strolling up and down the boardwalk to town, riding the hotel bikes around, swimming in the pool, sitting in the cafes , seeing a few sites and drinking aperitifs on the beach.
    Napoléon Bonaparte was from Ajaccio and so there are many statues, streets and restaurants named after the family and even a brewery. The fact that our waists were expanding, our wallets contracting and the restaurants seemed to be perpetually "fermé "we chose to visit a pizza food truck - which only in France- served us very nice wine!! We had a particularly fun meal on our second night at a family run establishment ( yup named Restaurant Napolean) . We were so happy with the meal and service that we invited the chef to join us for a drink. A number of eau de vie later........ he was regaling us with his stories and he and Jiggs were comparing notes on cooking game.

    Helen left on Monday morning for London as she had a Tuesday meeting she couldn't change but she's flying back today and we'll scoop her up in Calvi this evening. ( you can only do that in Europe when you need to pop home for a meeting.)

    Yesterday Mike took over the driving in our rented Peugeot and we took a very scenic but hair-raising drive north on the Corsican roads . Jiggs sat in the back and enjoyed Mike's discomfort having spent the first week at the helm of Le Boat. The Peugeot actually responds a lot better than The boat. The roads here are narrow and twisted like bad varicose veins.
    Last night's hotel was in the small village of Piana , up in the hills and with spectacular views looking out over the ocean and surrounding mountains. We drove past Piana to the seaside village of Porto which was a mere 13 km further along what had to be for all of us the scariest drive of our lives. Sheer drop offs on one side and rock face on the other , wandering camera-toting tourists, the occasional goat and a tour bus. Very dramatic scenery if you had the courage to look up. The area is noted for the calanches or very narrow, steep-walled inlets which plunge dramatically into the sea. We stopped at one of the pull-outs and went for a hike to get some good camera shots. We returned to our small, simple mountain village for a lovely fresh fish dinner served by a very surly Corsican waitress. Good fish.

    Today we went back down the windy 13 km - easy , peasy, and took a zodiac ride out to see the calanches and the various grottos or sea caves on the coast.

    Tonight we're in Calvi at a restored Franciscan Abbey. Not too austere fortunately.
    That's it for now. Tomorrow we head to the North coast in search of more Corsican beaches. Fi and I really want to kayak.

    Love to everyone,
    Fiona and Heather xx
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  • Day 13

    Final day's Adventures on the Canal

    September 29, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Friday was our last full day on Le Boat. Thursday we moored over- nighted in Capestang. Steph and I set our alarms and took our bikes out early to line up at the boulangerie for some warm croissants and pain chocolat. A big hit with the crew. Our Captain had us untying the lines well before 9 . The crew's decision was to get ahead of the rental boat crowd and get at the front of the line for the 9 locks near Bezier called The Fonserannes Staircase - which has a complex schedule for boats going in each direction. Fiona was clear that we could not afford to miss the 1300 downstream operations if we hoped to make our scheduled distance. Such a whip our Navigator. I think she's sleeping with the Captain - is that allowed??

    Along the way on Friday morning we passed through many vineyards and a number of small towns including Colombiers. Mac and Steph hopped off with bikes and toured around some of the area. The rest of us tied up at the locks and took a 1 hour tourist train ride around Bezier. Bezier seems like a lovely Languedoc town with shaded squares, some interesting ancient sites and lovely gardens. It was also the birthplace and home town of Pierre Paul Riquet - the master planner of the Canal du Midi. We would like to have stayed longer to look at some of the historical sites but, alors, it was time for the 9 locks. We descended 6 times - so that's 7 gates. Then did a sharp right turn to sail over the beautiful Pont Canal du Bezier aqueduct high above the Orb River. Great fun. It was the. Down another 2 locks. Fortunately, the only other boat packed into the locks with us on this sequence was crewed by a friendly Scottish family.

    During our final lock of the series of 9 everything stopped. We were stuck due to something about water pressure. Never did get the technical explanation - that's why you bring an engineer on these journeys. After
    Much yelling and hand-waving (in both official languages) Steph and I helpfully suggested it was perhaps wine time and broke out the white. The men grabbed a beer and miraculously just as the caps came off, the lock started to operate again. Admittedly, given this is France and half of everything is closed at any one time , I wondered if the lock- keepers had simply gone on break and left us stuck there. In fact we've run into so many "fermé " signs that it has become a standing joke with the group - we came to France for a holiday but it was closed.

    After a short stop for water fill up and some local charcuterie, we sailed through the last couple of locks and moored along the canal in a beautiful spot. We are only 1 km from the Med and there is a large marsh on our starboard side. We can see lots of waterbirds in the distance.
    Last night we enjoyed our left-overs which Helen adeptly cooked into a lovely pasta meal. We were originally concerned about the amount of wine left, but by 930 we had finished it all. Mike pulled out his speaker and we used Spotify to play some great tunes. Our trip theme song is now "Pontoon" by Little Big Town.
    It certainly has been a blast doing this with our family. We sure have some memories and stories. No one will miss the bunks and small spaces - you pretty much had to leave the cabin to change your mind - but we all managed very well. Fortunately, everyone was great about pitching in and doing what they could.

    This morning we finish packing up as we are due to return this beast at 9. Plans are to take a hired van at 11 which Mike has arranged. Then we will try to see a bit of Montpellier before 5 of us fly to Corsica later this evening.
    Mac and Steph split off and stay in Montpellier for a few nights before starting a tour of some of the Dordogne area with a rental car. Helen, Fiona, Jiggs , Mike and I will have a week touring Corsica.

    More from there.
    Signing off from the Canal du Midi.
    Au Revoir,
    Heather. Xx
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  • Day 13

    Chateaus, Aqueducts & low bridges

    September 29, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Things have become much smoother with our at-sea operations. Jiggs is looking more relaxed, Mac has taken on much of the longer stretches to give our Captain a break. The rest of us are adept at ropes, locks and generally being more useful than in the way- but it has been a relatively active holiday.

    I've taken a break from drafting the news and following are Mac's notes which provide a good description of Thursday's activities.

    We started Thursday in Homps. We set out promptly to clear the first locks early. No such luck as there was a small line up but it was a pretty spot for the wait, including an old aqueduct (here, as has often been the case, just a small structure where the canal crosses a stream). Heather and Helen thought we would walk to the next, nearby lock but discovered that the next lock was not in use so we had to pull-over to shore to rescue them!

    Steph and I then got off to go for a run along the canal. As we were moving much more quickly than the boat we took the time to go up to the top of a local promontory to look over the valley. When we met up with the boat, Helen joined us and we continued on foot to meet the boat at Argent Minervois, a charming little town with a welcoming cafe on the waterfront. Helen walked around town, to see what there was to see - a derelict castle mostly - then we met up with the boat and continued on our way.

    Le Somail was our early afternoon stop. Another charming waterside village- a little larger than most. Many boaters had stopped to lunch there, so it was quite busy. We explored what we could, including a giant second hand book store in a local cave - then persuaded a somewhat reluctant waiter to serve us a late lunch.
    After lunch, we passed a key point in the canal where a branch heads south to Narbonne. We continued east direction Beziers. Mike and Helen decided to bike into Capestang, our destination for the evening. The canal really meanders on this section with many twists and turns and remains on a surprisingly high elevation compared to the Aude river offering many views over the Aude valley.

    Capestang is one of the larger towns along the canal, with a very grand church on a small rise, soaring over the other buildings. It is also a very busy port. Many boats had stopped there for the night and as a result we were not able to get a serviced berth for the night so tied up on a grassy canal side.
    Capestang also boasts the lowest bridge on the entire canal. We inched through with only millimetres to spare all round. No surprise, mike and Helen were sitting nursing a beer at the first riverside bar in town.

    After tying up and tidying up, we headed into town for dinner, enjoying a stroll through town en-route. Capestang is prosperous with many handsome stone town houses and a marble paved town square beside church. We also checked out the location and opening times of the Boulanger in in anticipation of an early morning croissant run.
    Dinner was at a little family run restaurant that gets great reviews on Trip Advisor. Well deserved, we discovered. Our host was very attentive, the food was excellent and we tried out the wine that the restauranteur had been making with a friend -also successful. Three hours later, we waddled back to the boat after another convivial evening dining in France.
    That's all for now. I'll send the pictures in 2 batches
    Heather ( and Mac my ghost-writer)
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  • Day 11

    Flat Mary Joins our Crew

    September 27, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    It is Wednesday and we have a crew member who has not been properly introduced - Flat Mary. We have a picture of Mom taken on her last cruise to Alaska (7 years ago?). We brought Mom along in spirit so that she can see all the great things she's been doing. Flat Mary has been particularly helpful at the helm of our beastly boat. Poor Jiggs has been rather stuck with most of the driving and the bow thrusters keep giving out. Early this afternoon they gave out at a very inopportune time - just as we were entering a very low, narrow stone bridge. Crunch went the front! Fortunately, there are big bumpers and so the damage appears to be cosmetic. One of the boat bases was just 1 km away so we decided to pitch up and get it repaired.
    While the boat was under repair Mac and Steph went to explore Homps. They found a shop with local wines so we are stocked up again. We always think we' ve bought too much wine and then, poof, it's gone. ( Flat Mary strikes again)

    We had a nice stop this morning at the Port Minervois where we went out for baguettes and some other provisions. Funny thing about those baguettes, by the time you get them back to the boat seems about 1/2 of the baguette is missing ( I blame it on Flat Mary). So we always buy 2 baguettes.

    Tonight we decided to stay in Homps . Lovely restaurant up the canal where we were well fed with local wines and entrecôte, duck and lamb,

    Onward tomorrow ,
    Love Heather
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  • Day 10

    Happy Birthday Helen

    September 26, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Yup, once again we are celebrating Helen's birthday in Europe. Not sure if it's because we always travel to Europe in September or because her birthday is always in September - I'll check with the school teacher.

    Yesterday we had a beautiful cruise from Carcassone to just outside of Trebes where we are tied up. The weather has cleared and it was quite warm and sunny. . Although we only travelled 19 km, we went through many locks and had a few long waits. The scenery has been varied. The hills feel closer now as we came from a wider valley. The vineyards are close by not unlike the Wachau Valley last year ( shout out to Laura).

    Most of us got off the boat for a bike ride or long walk. The track along the canal allows for easy strolling. We also stopped at a couple of little towns to poke around. We found a particularly fabulous charcuterie for pate and cheeses.
    Last night we found a more secluded location for tying up. We had a quick chat with Mom (G'ma) in Victoria. Helen brought along in her luggage a bottle of Billecart-Salmon champagne that she received as a gift last year for her 60th. Jiggs cooked us up some local sausages on our little BBQ and we finished with some rumbabbas from the local boulangerie.
    A fitting celebration!
    Today our plans are to get to Argens- Minervois. It will be time to get more water.

    That's it for now. Love Heather xx
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  • Day 10

    Rescue at Sea

    September 26, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It's Tuesday morning and our hardy crew is in a holding pattern waiting to get into the locks. One of the locks right after Carcassone lost power so there was quite a canal traffic jam.

    We pulled into the busy town of Carcassone on Sunday night. Right after we docked, Fiona and I headed in for provisions. Right after returning Fi heard a splash. The lady on the boat tied up next to ours fell into the water while cleaning her Windows. (Hope she had her tetanus shot) Fiona grabbed her hand and called out to Mike and Jiggs who pulled her out of the canal. As you can imagine, no one on our boat has any plans to wash windows!!

    Yesterday was Monday . We all had a good look around the lower town, also called the Ville Basse. where we were moored in the harbour. . La Cité or the Citadel of Carcassone -which is how the medieval fortress is referred to - sits high above the lower , main commercial town. It was a pleasant stroll up from our boat, through town up to the Citadel which is the largest and best preserved medieval fortress in Europe. It is considered a masterpiece of military architecture with its various walls, moats, ramparts and protected entrances. The original buildings on the site are from early Christian times. Carcassone was in its heyday during the Middle Ages. It was a Cathar stronghold until the King of France threw the Cathars out at the request of the Pope. It was also, notably, a centre for the Inquisition and there is a torture museum which Mac, Steph and Helen visited. It all sounded very gruesome.We visited the main castle area where the local nobility and higher ups lived. Lots of bas relief and Christian sargophaguses (sarcophagi?)
    We also took a look at the main church- the Cathedral St. Nazaire with its beautiful stained glass. It was a pleasant visit and we returned in the evening to dine at one of the many restaurants in the Citadel. We had some traditional French fare including cuisse de grenouilles ( frogs legs), lapin ( rabbit) and some fish from the nearby Mediterranean. Also a bit of local wine. Just a bit.......
    Probably the highlight of our visit to Carcassone was our after dinner stroll back to the boat where , looking back, we were treated to spectacular views of the Citadel all lit up.

    This morning our Captain sounded revëlleé pretty early. We took off so fast I thought someone had stolen the boat. But Jiggs really wanted to get in line for the locks. So it was all - well most hands on deck.

    More to follow in the next blog. Must go and help with the "bumper boat" opérations. Poor Jiggs , the thrusters keep quitting on him.
    Love Heatherxx
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  • Day 8

    More pictures

    September 24, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C