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- Hari 1
- Senin, 12 Agustus 2024 08.00
- 🌬 82 °F
- Ketinggian: 256 ft
YunaniAthens Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport37°56’19” N 23°56’51” E
The Heat's on in Athens

We rented a car at the Athens airport. There was a fire raging just north of Athens in Marathon which is about oh, I don't know, maybe 26.2 miles away. So we headed west to avoid that and spent the night in Delphi.Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 2–3
- 13 Agustus 2024 15.15 - 14 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ☀️ 88 °F
- Ketinggian: 1.831 ft
YunaniMonument of the Argive kings38°28’55” N 22°30’7” E
The Oracle of Delphi

Delphi (I swear it's pronounced like Delphy) is where the ancients came to have a prophecy told to them by a priestess getting high on some fumes in a cave. This became quite a lucrative racket, and soon every kingdom brought treasures and built their own treasury.
We spent a few hours at the archaeological sights and the museum before heading to Itea on the Corinthian coast for a seafood lunch. It's just south of the town.
This was my 2nd time here, but during that 2000 trip, everything was closed for a massive reconstruction project. It was well worth it. Great museum!
More photos and videos are here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/64C9RhoiAgw5u67H8Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 3–5
- 14 Agustus 2024 22.02 - 16 Agustus 2024
- 2 malam
- 🌙 79 °F
- Ketinggian: 787 ft
YunaniKalambaka39°42’27” N 21°37’37” E
The Monasteries of Meteora

After Delphi, we headed north through winding mountain roads and took a small detour to Thermopylae after coming back down to the Malian Gulf, part of the Aegean Sea. There's not much to see there except a statue of Leonidas , the Spartan king of "300" fame. Still cool to see the site where they kept the Persians at bay until a traitor sold them out.
We checked into a hotel at Kalambaka, at the base of the great monasteries of Meteora. They are perched high on rocky pinnacles and are one of the most spectacular sites in Greece. I visited here in 2010 and had to show them to Deanne.
We arrived in late afternoon and had enough time to go visit the outside of the monasteries along the road. It was a perfect time for pictures. We saw several dozen older Peugeot cars that were covered with sponsor labels.
Apparently there's an organization in France (Europ' Raid) that takes 90's era Peugeot 205s with 3 people in each car and then delivers school aids to Eastern Europe. They drive to 20 countries in 22 days.
The next morning we visited two monasteries and did a lot of hiking in the heat up and down the steps. It was surprisingly crowded for a Thursday, but then we realized it's a religious holiday in Greece and that's why there's so many buses and Greek families visiting today. Two monasteries later, we were churched out , so we skipped the convent we were going to visit. After all the heat and all the tours with all the people we were done for the day. But, it was amazing to see how these monks lived in the Byzantine era.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/H7RBQQ9oJnXLWL3PABaca selengkapnya

Great photos and commentary. Meanwhile, nothing is new here, except that I'll be working the Hozier concert at Breese tonight - sold out of 10k tickets, so I should make good tips. If you see a statue of Phidippides, the runner, I'd like to see that. [Matthew]
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- Hari 5–7
- 16 Agustus 2024 13.30 - 18 Agustus 2024
- 2 malam
- ⛅ 97 °F
- Ketinggian: 1.539 ft
YunaniIoannina39°40’17” N 20°51’35” E
Ioannina (Yanina)

This part of Greece is lesser visited by Americans, but it's quite interesting. It was part of the Ottoman empire for centuries and this region of Epirus is the home of Pyrrhus, the namesake general king who "won" against the Romans but lost most of his army doing so, giving us the term "Pyrrhic victory ."
But it is a religious holiday weekend in August and there is no shortage of Greek, Albanian, and Italian tourists around. Italy is a short drive and ferry ride away. We stopped in Metsovo on the way on a Friday. It was described in our guidebook as a hidden gem. But today, it was a mess of cars, tourist buses, and pedestrians in a tiny mountain village with narrow cobblestone streets. After trying to find parking for a half hour, we just left town. Maybe we'll hit it on the way back.
A short while later, we checked into a hotel with parking in Ionnina, a decent sized college town and the capital of Epirus. It's on a large lake and there's an old Ottoman castle at the end of a peninsula. It's about 100F every day now, so a walk through the Kastro, a museum visit, and Cafe sitting just about did us in.
After some aircon therapy at our hotel, we were out and about at 7:30 pm or so. What a difference. The place seemed deserted in the mid afternoon heat but came alive after sunset with hundreds of families out walking, eating and drinking at the plentiful cafes along the lake and outside of the castle walls.
We opted for a place that specialized in the baked smoked Manouri cheese from nearby Metsovo. Wow. That was like crack and we're having it again! And again... It's even better than the flaming saganaki cheese back home. We also got a huge portion of Pork Souvlaki that could have fed 4.
In general, I'd say the food here is twice as good, twice the portion size and half the price as similar restaurants in the states. House wine is exceptionally good and a great value.
We went out again on Saturday night and the city was hopping near the Kastro (castle district). I just looked it up and Ioannina is about a third the size of Madison, Wisconsin. But there are dozens and dozens of restaurants in this area and most are doing a great business. We found one in an alley and had amazing trout and baked smoked cheese with white wine.
We had to stroll after that, which is popular and got delightfully lost within the Kastro walls. There are a lot of houses within the old castle, museums in the center, and businesses on the edge. No streets are straight. We found our way out of the Byzantine maze and made it back home. It was still in the 80s (upper 20s C) at 10 pm .
After booking another night at the hotel, we set out for our last day of sightseeing with a visit to the the Silversmithing museum. It was a well presented museum that explained how silver is melted and purified and then made into ingots, then wire, then into filigree or into other objects.
It's been dry and hot for weeks here, so it was a surprise when we got hours of rain and hail in the afternoon. Fortunately, we were home but then missed a boat ride across Lake Pamvotis to the small island where the tyrant Ali Pasha had a house. It's now a museum. He ran this area with an iron fist in the early 1800's for the Ottomans, but got too big for his britches and was assassinated by them. His head was later delivered to the Sultan in Istanbul.
Even though we missed all that, we loved seeing this part of Greece that we knew nothing about. We'll try Metsovo again tomorrow on the way to Kastoria in the north, not far from the Albanian border.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HKaJNDiqadA8WQra7Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 6
- Sabtu, 17 Agustus 2024 10.30
- ☀️ 88 °F
- Ketinggian: 3.750 ft
YunaniVradeto39°54’21” N 20°45’52” E
Beloi Hike in the Vikos Gorge

Wow. I'm so glad I saw this in my guidebook, Rough Guides Greece. It's so much better than Lonely Planet. They used to be the Travel Bible, and now they're just fluff.
The Vikos Gorge is in a national park in the Zagori region about an hour north of Ionnina. We got up early to beat the heat and hike the Beloi trail to this amazing, deep gorge. It rivals the Samaria Gorge in Crete and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado. It was breathtaking.
We stopped at a mountain cafe afterwards for our new favorite drink. It's the Freddo Cappuccino, or iced cappuccino. We got some hiking advice from a nice Greek family, but skipped their recommended waterfall hike and drove to some small villages on the other side of the gorge. We visited Vitsa and had a great lunch under a large tree on the main square in Monodendri.
We were back in our room by 4 to rest up and relax in the AC. We like the area so much, we'll spend 3 nights in Ioannina instead of 2.
More photos and videos are here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1J5DuDvdJvyzHBZb6Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 8
- Senin, 19 Agustus 2024 09.30
- ☁️ 72 °F
- Ketinggian: 3.773 ft
YunaniMetsovo39°46’9” N 21°10’59” E
Metsovo

We gave Metsovo another shot. This time on a Monday morning instead of Friday at noon. As we approached the town there was a herd of goats in the road after a sharp curve. A very aggressive "goat dog" ran right towards our car to warn me. He pretty much risked his life for those goats. I stopped in time. Impressive. The other day while driving in the Pindhos Mountains I saw a shepherd herding sheep with a motorcycle.
It was much less hectic in town today. We parked in the center and walked up and down the cobblestone lanes. It's a picturesque town but I'm glad we didn't spent the night here. Lots of natural beauty and hotels, tour busses and overpriced trinkets. I grabbed a Greek coffee while we waited for an art museum to open. It was nice, but the best part was a photo exhibit from the 60's and 70's. Wow, has this place changed in 50 years. Back then, old men still dressed like the guys in the changing of the guard in Athens.
We heard singing in the Orthodox church and poked our heads in. Was it another holy day? I didn't stick around to find out. It was about noon but we weren't hungry yet, so we pushed on to Kastoria for a new hotel and lunch.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sQq7JCkW5Wv1Huxz8Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 8–9
- 19 Agustus 2024 13.00 - 20 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ☁️ 79 °F
- Ketinggian: 2.129 ft
YunaniKastoria40°31’19” N 21°15’48” E
Kastoria

Kastoria is located on an isthmus of a peninsula in a lake in the state of Macedonia. It sounded like a nice place (like Madison!) to rest as we head towards some famous ruins east of here.
It's known as a fur town because of the beavers that were prevalent on the lake here. There's not so many beavers now, but there are still plenty of furriers around town. My guidebook said it's quite popular with the Russians. They might be the only customers left. The town is pleasant enough but there are quite a few empty shops.
But a lot of money was made in the trade back in the day and the fur families built beautiful Ottoman mansions along the lakefront and in the hilly center. We walked along the lake admiring them and took the advice of our hotel staff and ate at a recommended local restaurant in the old town square.
It was probably the best meal here so far. We got the local smoked, baked cheese again, a salad with figs, spinach, walnuts and beans, and a moussaka with the fluffiest bechamel sauce I've ever had. We were served candied figs on the house afterwards. It was so filling and late in the day, we just had snacks for dinner.
We took a slow drive all around the peninsula. The east end is all a preserved park and there's a one way road that goes all the way around.
Tomorrow, we are going to Aegae, the ancient capital of the Macedonians. It hosts the tomb of Phillip of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great . That kingdom moved to Pella later and we'll visit that on Wednesday.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nEM2iaBNwyXzBW6D8Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 9–10
- 20 Agustus 2024 10.30 - 21 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ⛅ 77 °F
- Ketinggian: 1.690 ft
YunaniVergina40°29’15” N 22°19’10” E
The Royal Tombs of Aegae

It's pronounced "A gay" and it's also written several different ways. And I'd never heard of it before. But it's where Phillip of Macedon is buried at the ancient palace area of the Macedonians. Phillip was the father of the famous Alexander the Great. They lived in nearby Pella and we will visit that tomorrow. But it was here where Phillip was assassinated at the old amphitheatre and where his 17 year old son, Alexander became king.
I won't bore you with all the history but I found it all fascinating. Even Deanne, who's not a huge history buff found it very interesting.
Before we got there we stopped in the nearby town of Veria to walk through the old Jewish quarter. There were some really cool houses and an old synagogue. Sadly, the Nazis invaded in world war II and almost all of the Jews were killed.
Nearby there is a shrine to the apostle Paul. He traveled through here and was doing a pretty good job of converting the local Jews until some rabbis from Thessaloniki came to run him out of town. The town was called Berea then.
At Aegae, just south of town, a large museum was built on top of a series of tombs buried under a mound called a tumulus. It was really well done and they found a treasure trove including King Phillip's golden funerary urn (he was cremated) and an absolutely amazing golden wreath.
There was also a tomb that they believe held Alexander the Great's only son. He was born after Alexander died and, like Grandpa Phillip, was assassinated, thus killing off the royal line. He was only a teenager.
Another nearby museum was included with the ticket. It hosted a lot of other artifacts from the era that were not necessarily found in the tomb. It had the most and best preserved Greek pottery I've ever seen.
It rained heavily again, so the outdoor temple site was closed, so hopefully we'll see it in the morning. As we left, we saw an RV with a sign on the side that said "Highway to Helles." That's our new motto!
We opted to stay at a mountain resort out of town. What a nice change of pace. For the first time, we didn't need an air conditioner. Dinner was excellent: lamb chops, a baked aubergine app, and another app of baked cheese with peppers. The breakfast buffet was the best yet, with homemade jams and fruit compotes
Check out the photo album if you want to see all of the relics.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h6RA271prj9ezMLd9Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 10
- Rabu, 21 Agustus 2024 09.00
- ⛅ 90 °F
- Ketinggian: 30 ft
YunaniArchaeological site of Pella40°45’15” N 22°31’4” E
Ancient Pella

This is where Philip of Macedon actually lived, and where Alexander The Great grew up. It's where Aristotle tutored Alexander and where Euripedes wrote at least one play.
You have to use your imagination at this archaeological site, but the museum was top notch. The site was an embarrassment to the Greek government, really. It was not maintained well and there were weeds and trees growing through the ruins.
But after walking around them, we enjoyed the modern museum that was just excellent. There's a wide variety of objects and armor that were found on the site and preserved and displayed well. Several detailed mosaics from ancient houses were moved inside the museum to be protected.
Afterwards we went to a local taverna and had more great food. It's really hard to find a bad meal here.
Deanne found a cottage near the Aegean Sea and near the base of Mount Olympus. It was only an hour's drive south. We'll spend 2 nights here and I think we're done with the Archaeology for awhile. Instead, I'm gonna relax on the beach and hike at the base of Mt. Olympus.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1KztQjyJYMeAzCda8Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 10–12
- 21 Agustus 2024 16.00 - 23 Agustus 2024
- 2 malam
- ⛅ 95 °F
- Ketinggian: 5.010 ft
YunaniDio-Olympos40°4’52” N 22°23’11” E
Hiking Amongst The Gods at Mt. Olympus

Pretty dramatic title, huh? Well, we just went on a small mountain hike, but it WAS at the base of one of the most famous mountains in the world, Mt Olympus, where the Greek Gods live. It was neither a comedy, nor a tragedy but it was sure beautiful. It was only later that we saw one of the gods.
Our cabin by the ocean is absolutely fantastic. We're doing multiple loads of laundry before we get on the boat in 2 days. The beach is just two blocks away. It's a quiet oasis next to a campground full of European campers.
We got up early to watch the sunrise and although Mount Olympus was still covered in clouds, there was almost a full moon behind it.
After breakfast we drove 45 minutes to the end of the road up to Mt Olympus to start our hike. Ascending the peak takes a little more time and planning. I would like to have have done it but that requires an overnight at a lodge. It's not a hard climb, or even that high (2,900 meters, or 9,572 ft ). We just didn't have the time. We hiked for several hours and didn't quite make it up to the refuge where many people spend the night before ascending to the peak the next morning.
Most people on the trail were non-greek Europeans. I counted at least six or eight languages. And it was quite a coincidence when we met two young Polish guys who lived near Wroclaw, where our friends Bogdan and Beata live. We're meeting them in 2 days, as Bogdan is the captain of our sailboat excursion in the Aegean.
We ate a hearty lunch at a different refuge along the road on the way back: bean soup, pork chops, and local wine. Now we're lounging at the beach in the Thermaic Gulf of the Aegean Sea drinking some beers. This Gulf used to extend all the way to Pella and that's why the city was there. But now it's 26 Km away from that ancient city.
On the way home, we stopped to buy some Mythos beers in Litochoro. Walking on the side of the road was an elderly bearded man wearing a purple robe, an elaborate gold necklace around his neck, and sandals. By Jove! I think it was Zeus! I only recently learned that Jove was another name for Jupiter, which is the Roman equivalent of Zeus. Anyhoo, my theory is that Zeus was buying beers to take back to Olympus.
More photos and videos are here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rLDmcjEx4keKUEyr7Baca selengkapnya

PelancongIf you haven't had the misfortune of tasting retsina, it's like white wine mixed with Pine-Sol.

Wow! That's a very specific description and sounds horrible! It sells?! [Sharon]
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- Hari 13–14
- 24 Agustus 2024 11.00 - 25 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- 🌬 86 °F
- Ketinggian: 43 ft
YunaniArchaía Kamínia37°41’45” N 24°3’27” E
The Port of Lavrio

Bogdan, Beata, their sons Kuba and Michael, and about 13 other Poles met us at the airport in Athens. We had just turned in our car and they all arrived from Wroclaw. We'll be in 2 sailboats for 10 nights and everyone is excited.
Michael booked a bus to take us all to the port of Lavrio, SE of Athens. It's where charter sailboats harbor. Our boat will be ready at 5pm, so today is mostly about preparing to leave in the morning.
A few of us will buy provisions while the rest of us kick back . This will probably be the easiest day of our trip! I'm so glad we rented the car, but I'm also glad to be done driving.
We will have an easy sailing day tomorrow. Maybe we will go to Kythnos first.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/85qs2aKnKf9BsZe2ABaca selengkapnya
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- Hari 14–15
- 25 Agustus 2024 19.46 - 26 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ☀️ 81 °F
- Ketinggian: Permukaan laut
YunaniÓrmos Kolóna37°24’55” N 24°22’46” E
The Island of Kythnos

Well, I didn't throw up, but it was close. My first sailboat trip on a sea was a little rough introduction. We had over 20 knot winds, which is good for sailing, but is also adventurous.
Breakfast this morning was just coffee or tea and then we set up and sailed for about 4 hours to Kythnos. There's a tiny island right off the west side of it. A sandy isthmus has formed between them and it's perfect for a beach visit.
It's where all the beautiful yacht people hang out. I'm surprised they let me in.
After the rough morning, we spent a relaxing day swimming and hanging out on the beach. Bogdan swears the first day is the worst and that nobody should be seasick anymore. Me? I'm taking the Dramamine Deanne bought. And I'm eating the ginger chews. And I'll wear the acupressure bracelets she bought. She did all 3 today and had no problems.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LWWfi6KXKNeduRnt7Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 15–17
- 26 Agustus 2024 19.25 - 28 Agustus 2024
- 2 malam
- ☀️ 81 °F
- Ketinggian: Permukaan laut
YunaniMilos Ferry Port36°43’34” N 24°27’3” E
Milos

Not only did I not get seasick today, but I got to pilot a sailboat for my first time. The wind is much calmer today and it was easy sailing. I got about an hour and a half in at the helm. The digital electronic panels and GPS make it a snap. The wind was averaging 20 knots most of the way.
We headed to Serifos, but it was too windy on the leeward side, so we couldn't stop for a swim and eat lunch there. We turned around and headed south towards Milos.
I didn't realize it until I read in the guidebook that this is where the Venus de Milo is from. Milos....Milo....I get it now. We saw the statue at the Louvre 2 years ago. There's a plaster version here on the island in a museum, but I don't think we'll have time to see it. French sailors took it in 1820 right before the Greek Independence war. It goes without saying that the Greeks want their statue back.
We couldn't find a slip at the marina, so we anchored offshore for the night and ferried in to dinner on a dinghy. It was about 10 hours of sailing today!
The next morning, we charged our batteries and got more water and headed to a beach and a cozy cove with caves. It was too late to go to Folegandros today, so we found a cove on the south side of Milos to make dinner and spend the night.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kBE7ztFeHJtCikD26Baca selengkapnya
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- Hari 17–18
- 28 Agustus 2024 15.45 - 29 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ☀️ 82 °F
- Ketinggian: Permukaan laut
YunaniÓrmos Íou36°43’25” N 25°16’6” E
Ios

After 6 hours of sailing, we pulled into Ios' port city. It's a chance to fill up on water, electricity, and a restaurant meal.
It was very windy so docking took a long time and was difficult. As we docked, a sailboat 2 slips away collided with a different boat as they were trying to leave. This is risky business.
We all went our separate way for for walks, drinks and a restaurant meal. We chose the Thai restaurant since we've been eating Greek food for over 2 weeks now. It was a delicious meal and as I was paying I spotted the Thai grandmother in the kitchen. That's always a good sign.
I was looking at the bus schedule and noticed that there was a special bus for a festival in a village on the other side of the island. I talked to a travel agent and she told me about it and then I bought tickets for the bus at 8pm. Strangely, it took 20 minutes to buy a bus ticket when they weren't busy, so I was a little suspect.
Long story short, she told me the wrong name on the bus and it also left 4 minutes early. I went back and got my money back. Fortunately they didn't argue. I guess it just wasn't meant to be.
It's only been 4 days but everybody is happy to be off the boat. And I seem to be experiencing "land sickness" where my legs are wobbly and I'm a little nauseous when I'm on land. It's mild, but a little surreal.
More photos and videos are here
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- Hari 18–19
- 29 Agustus 2024 15.01 - 30 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ☀️ 84 °F
- Ketinggian: 26 ft
YunaniLivadia Beach37°5’15” N 25°9’11” E
Parikia, Paros

It was a short trip from Milos to Paros, so we stopped twice to swim and snorkel. The water is about the clearest blue I've ever seen and that's saying something. There's not a lot of fish to see. And the ones I saw were not colorful and were pretty small. I did see a very small flounder though.
Wow. What a difference. Parikia, the main town in Paros, is the most beautiful Greek town we've been in so far on this trip. And that might have something to do with the Venetians who ruled here during the crusades and had lots of money from all their looting and trading.
We found an excellent restaurant and ordered sea bass and a traditional dried mackerel. It might not sound good by my description but it was delicious.
This is one of those island cities that is just fun to wander around and get lost in. There's narrow lanes and lots of beautiful flowers. All the buildings are white and the shutters and church roofs are blue. It's what people think of when they think "Greek Island."
It's the end of the high season so it's busy but not quite as busy as I expected. A lot of Southern Europeans take the whole month of August off and now we're at August 30, so I think a fair amount of people are headed back to home and work.
We only had a few hours last night to see the island and an hour this morning to visit a museum. We wish we had more time on each island but this is a small sacrifice to pay for the opportunity to sail around the Cyclades.
Paros is known for its pink marble from a quarry in the middle of the island. I read about and saw many Parian marble statues at the museum in Delphi. The French used this Parian marble for Napoleon's tomb in Paris. We saw that amazing tomb on a visit there at the Hospital de Invalides.
Mykonos is only about 4 hours to our North and that's where we're heading now.
More photos and videos are here.
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- Tampilkan perjalanan
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- Hari 19–20
- 30 Agustus 2024 16.00 - 31 Agustus 2024
- 1 malam
- ☀️ 81 °F
- Ketinggian: Permukaan laut
YunaniLittle Venice37°26’57” N 25°19’41” E
Mykonos

We left Paros by 10 am and stopped to take a swim just outside of Parikia. Then we headed due north to Mykonos. It's one of the most popular Islands in the Aegean Sea for tourists. We didn't plan on finding a slip at the main harbor in Mykonos town.
Instead, we went to a small bay called Platis Gialis. There was no room at the inn there either, or even room to anchor in that bay. We hooked up to a buoy and was told we couldn't stay since it was rented to a charter boat. So, we moved 2 bays over and dropped anchor for the night.
A few of us swam in to shore to look around. At this place there wasn't a thing for a tourist to see. It was just higher priced hotels and their beach lounges. We weren't interested in taking a cab into Mykonos town, so we just relaxed on the boat, had some drinks and ate a wonderful dinner on the boat.
This might have been the lamest visit to Mykonos ever! But at this point, we're past the party Island lifestyle.
Just to the west of Mykonos is the small, barren, sacred Island of Delos. Nobody has lived on it for a few thousand years supposedly. It's the home of Apollo and Artemis and became a banking center. It's the namesake of the Delian league, which Athens created after the Persian wars of Marathon and Thermopylae in order to protect the Cyclades.
It's also the reason "Cyclades" is the name of these islands. Delos is in the center of this ring of islands and that shows its historical importance.
Next stop: Syros.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EjmfkDCoG8LhS7yNABaca selengkapnya
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- Bagikan
- Hari 20–21
- 31 Agustus 2024 17.00 - 1 September 2024
- 1 malam
- ⛅ 81 °F
- Ketinggian: 10 ft
YunaniKimata beach37°26’35” N 24°56’39” E
Ermoupoli, Syros

Ermoupoli (Hermes' city) is the largest city on Syros and the capital of the Cyclades. Their harbor and trade was once bigger than Piraeus in Athens. My guidebook said it's the most Greek city in the Aegean. And by that they mean there's not many tourists and it's a real City. We loved it!
After visiting a few touristy places with overpriced everything, it's nice to be in a real city. There are lots of pedestrian streets and narrow lanes with cafes and restaurants spilling their chairs and tables out of the streets.
We were able to pull right up to the pier and dock there to get water and electricity. It's the happening spot with all the nicest cafes and restaurants and nightlife. For the first time of the trip, lots of people stopped to look at our boat and even take pictures. In other places in the islands, nobody cared.
We jumped off right away to explore. We visited a small theater from the late 19th century and went to an Orthodox Church on the hill. They had an original El Greco painting in the vestibule. He was about 20 when he painted it and it was in the classic Orthodox style, which is much different than his paintings that we saw in El Prado in Madrid from his later life.
We grabbed gelatos and wandered aimlessly for awhile. Later, we bought dinner for Bogdan and Beata. It was the least we could do to thank them for inviting us on this trip. As usual, the food was amazing.
It's Deanne's 64th birthday tomorrow, but we started celebrating early. I bought her a few gifts and at a wonderful bakery, we bought a huge pie of baklavas for everyone on the boat later. The woman at the bakery gave us a candle when I mentioned it was her birthday.
Later, everyone relaxed on the boat with aperol spritzes and watched me get a haircut from Kuba on the back of the boat. He's my new favorite Polish barber.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gJZUUwXL8yjgnujB9Baca selengkapnya

Speaking of celebrating, tell Deanne that my annual Octoberfest donation is coming up this weekend. Go Hawks. In all seriousness, your trip looks truly awesome. [Matt]
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- Bagikan
- Hari 21–22
- 1 September 2024 15.37 - 2 September 2024
- 1 malam
- ⛅ 79 °F
- Ketinggian: 7 ft
YunaniÓrmos Loutrón37°26’32” N 24°25’36” E
Loutra, Kythnos

We're circling back to Lavrio, where we started. We'll stay at Kythnos again, but on the east side this time.
On the way here we had in a little rough weather. It was a great day for Deanne to try her hand at the helm. Everyone was impressed. On her 64th birthday, she learned to sail. Once a captain, always a captain.
Loutra is small, but has everything we need. To top it off, there's natural hot spring waters that flow into the sea right at the beach. The spa here is closed for good and the hotel is abandoned. But locals piled rocks in a semicircle at the edge of the beach and it forms a nice little hot spring tub where about a dozen people can enjoy the waters.
We're almost done with our trip, so most people are just chilling out. Tomorrow we will have our last sailing day and go back to Lavrio and spend the night at the port there before turning in the boat.
Tonight, I lit a candle for Deanne on the baklava pie and we shared them with the crew. We celebrated with the pomegranate liquor we bought from an old lady in the mountains along with Metaxa, a Greek brandy. The group sang happy birthday to Deanne in 2 languages. That's a birthday to remember!
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/eVKeBvNydJmN2kvVABaca selengkapnya

I don't know where this sailing trip ranks in the Best of the Best, but it's my fave of all your trips. You guys are killing it. Next step Nat Geo baby. [Lida]
- Tampilkan perjalanan
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- Bagikan
- Hari 22–23
- 2 September 2024 16.12 - 3 September 2024
- 1 malam
- ☀️ 84 °F
- Ketinggian: 13 ft
YunaniÓrmos Gaïdourómantra37°41’44” N 24°3’35” E
Back to Lavrio

There was no wind on our last sailing day, so we motored it back to Lavrio. But we took our time and swam two more times on the way at small coves.
We cooked one last dinner onboard and there were lots of hugs and goodbyes in the morning. It was our first sailboat trip and it was awesome. Our crew and captain were amazing. We laughed a lot. Our only complaint, and it's a small one, is that there was no time to explore the islands. That's a different trip using ferries.
Today is a long travel day. We're killing some time waiting for a van back to the airport. Everyone else is flying back to Poland and we're flying to Tirana, Albania for the third phase of our trip.
We'll see within a few weeks if we want to do another sailing trip like this. I'm very tempted to join the scheduled trip next year to French Polynesia with these crazy polish sailors.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/osB3nTxRVQ1CXvf37Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 23–27
- 3 September 2024 17.00 - 7 September 2024
- 4 malam
- ☀️ 88 °F
- Ketinggian: 358 ft
AlbaniaTirana41°19’42” N 19°49’7” E
Tirana, Albania 1

The city is so interesting, I'm making a couple different posts for it.
It was a crazy flight on Wizz Air. At the airport in Athens, a really angry Albanian man was screaming for a half hour before the plane even loaded, probably because the flight was delayed. And they still let him on. A screaming 3-year-old boy wouldn't let his mom buckle him up and the flight attendants let him sit without a belt on while landing and mom put the table down for him to play with to make it even more dangerous! He still cried. When we landed everyone clapped. Haven't seen that since Bangladesh. We're not in Greece anymore.
That was a strange introduction to an amazing city. Albania has had such a long horrible history with the communist dictator Enver Hoxha that it's nice to see it on the way up.
Everyone seems to be raving about Albania as the next "it" place to travel in Europe, and I can see why. There's such a positive energy here. People are very friendly and most speak English. And there's a lot of building going on.
The city is full of ugly communist concrete brutalist architecture but a former mayor a few years ago to tried to brighten things up with paint. It's quirky. And in the last 10 years or so there's a lot of skyscrapers going up with modernist designs. From my balcony apartment., I can see about 10 huge cranes building many 30 to 40 story modernist buildings.
We rented a really nice apartment for four nights. We figured we deserved it after the sailing trip in cramped spaces. I think we're paying about $43 a night and that's a splurge here. There's a great restaurant next door with local cuisine and it's amazing. We had two dishes that had a yogurt sauce with lamb butter mixed in with either chicken or lamb. It was absolutely rich and delicious.
We've been doing a lot of walking and getting the lay of the land. Skandebeg square is the main plaza in the center about a mile from our apartment. Unfortunately, the main history museum just closed for a 4-year renovation! I was so looking forward to it.
But there are several other museums including "The House of Leaves", which tells the depressing story of the 50 years of the police state spying on its own citizens. I've been to several of these museums all over Eastern Europe and the story is the same.
The people are so friendly. I bought peaches from a fruit vendor and he touched his heart when I walked in. His eyes lit up when I said I was from America. You really don't see that too often anymore! His brother lives in Chicago.
The main streets are just full of shops selling anything and everything. I really didn't see that in Greece. There couldn't be a greater contrast. Small towns in Greece were pretty impoverished. I wonder if we'll see that in the countryside here. Most of Greece seems to rely on tourism and people are just kind of settled into that.
After 2 days in Tirana there seems to be such a frenzy of people looking to make money and move ahead. But not in a negative way. It's so refreshingly vibrant. People dress up at night. Everyone is out and about and cafe culture here is big, like in the rest of Europe. One espresso buys you unlimited time in a cafe seat to watch the world go by.
Part of that energy probably has to do with little tourism here compared to the rest of Europe and I can guarantee within 10 years I won't recognize this place because a lot of tourists are going to come.
It has a welcoming culture, mountains and hiking, unique Ottoman villages, amazing beaches on the Adriatic similar to Croatia and Italy, and few crowds. We'll spend 4 days here before we move north to see Shkodra and do a popular hike in the "Accursed Mountains " Who could refuse an invitation like that?
More photos and videos are here!.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fcy1y8uPMpmfD9yT7Baca selengkapnya

PelancongYou have us intrigued and ready to add it to the top of our list.
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- Hari 26
- Jumat, 06 September 2024 11.08
- ☁️ 82 °F
- Ketinggian: 440 ft
AlbaniaTirana41°20’22” N 19°49’44” E
Tirana, Albania 2

The former communist dictator Enver Hoxha had citizens build a couple hundred thousand bunkers throughout the country in a paranoid frenzy, thinking the Americans were going to nuke it or invade Albania for some reason. In fact, none of us even knew where the country was.
But now several of these bunkers are museums and we decided to go to the larger one on the outskirts of town called Bunk'art 1. It's a large bunker complex that was supposed to hold the high government officials during a nuclear attack. It's now a fascinating history museum with art exhibits. Some of the details of all their recent wars was too much but it is fascinating. King Zog? Never heard of him but I love his name.
The best part was seeing the private bunker that was supposed to hold Hoxha. It was pretty sparse.
We walked around town a lot more and enjoyed the parks and chill vibe of Tirana. After splurging on an expensive meal the night before, we opted for a cheap local cafeteria style restaurant for lunch. It was just as delicious. Lots of workmen came in and ate quickly. Each got three pieces of white bread with their meal.
We took our time and ordered a half liter carafe of local white wine. Deanne ordered white beans with beef and it was incredibly tender and savory. I opted for stuffed peppers and couldn't have been happier.
Deanne found a cooking school so we booked that for dinner last night. It was really fun and there was way too much food. We couldn't eat it all. The class included a couple from Albania who live in Prague and missed their home cooking, a family of four from Stuttgart, Germany, and two women from England. We made fast friends via raki (Balkan brandy) and wine.
We made a dessert, burek with onions and tomatoes instead of cheese, and Tave Kosi, the Albanian national dish. Burek is Albanian fast food and it's usually phyllo dough stuffed with cheese but you can put anything in it. And Tave Kosi is lamb marinated in yogurt sauce and then baked. It was all crazy good.
We were only one block away from Skandebeg Square, so afterwards we went to listen to some free music at a festival they were having this weekend. That was fun, especially seeing the people dancing in the traditional slow circles.
On our last full day in town we planned on having a picnic in a cemetery. I know, weird isn't it? But those can be fun, especially when the tombstones are works of art. But we waited forever for our first bus, then got stuck in traffic so we got off and walked after only the first stop! We lost a whopping 80 cents on that deal. Then we waited forever for the second bus and decided it wasn't worth it.
Instead, we had a picnic in a small park behind a mosque and enjoyed people watching. Then we stumbled upon a fish market and had the Albanian version of the Fredo Cappuccino at a really nice Albanian coffee chain.
I'm absolutely astounded at the number of coffee shops, cafes and restaurants here. There were so many in Greece also but I think there's even more here. Are they just fronts for the Albanian Mafia?
Tonight we'll go back to the Music Festival in Skanderbeg Square.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ePiSBgT1Dtiukfy5Baca selengkapnya

They are nominally Muslims but they must not adhere to the non drinking thing. Or so it would appear. Great blog [Matt]
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- Hari 27
- Sabtu, 07 September 2024 12.30
- ☀️ 88 °F
- Ketinggian: 59 ft
AlbaniaShkodër42°4’6” N 19°30’44” E
Shkodra, Albania

Whew. "The 2 hour" bus ride to Shkodra from Tirana was more like 4. But it cost only about $5, so I can't complain too much. We opted to not rent a car here. It's way too crazy for me to take that risk. Greek drivers are hyper aggressive, but Albanians are on a whole other level. Albanian drivers make Greek drivers look like yellow- bellied, lilly- livered cowards. We decided to save our health, sanity, and dollars in exchange for lost time and sweating. For some reason, Albanians like to drive backwards. A lot. Like, whole city blocks of driving backwards.
Shkodra is the jumping off point for tourist activities in the north. We all want to go to the "Accursed Mountains" or "Albanian Alps" (your choice.) But we've decided that since it's going to rain heavily on the days we're available to hike, we're just going to cancel going there. It's a tough decision, but it's one you have to make as a traveler. I've been planning for months to do the famous Valbone to Theth hike across a mountain pass. But it will be dangerous and cold with thunderstorms in these mountains. It IS the Accursed Mountains after all. Well, it will always be there, but will there be too many people doing it? There are a LOT of tourists in this town, mostly younger backpackers who are going to do that hike. The word is out.
The other main reason for coming to this area is a famous ferry ride from Komani to Fierze on the Drin river, which has been dammed to form Komani Lake. My guidebook author compared it to Norwegian fjords + the Chilean Patagonia coast. While it was amazing and beautiful, I'd rate it third place of the 3.
We booked a tour that picked us up at our hotel and drove about 20 of us to the ferry port an hour and a half away. There are about 6 or 8 ferries a day now and there used to be just a couple a few years ago. Words can't describe the beauty, so check out this one minute video. We walked through the dam that formed this magical lake to start our tour.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ryokym5sbb1myuDQ7
We met some fun travelers on the boats and since we weren't hiking, we took the ferry back right away. For dinner, we went to the same seafood restaurant again because it was so good. Tonight might have been the best meal of the trip. For under $50, we had 2 glasses of wine each, fish soup, a massive crudo (ceviche) platter with 6 types of seafood, and the local specialty, a carp casserole. They farm carp in Komani Lake which is the lake formed by the dam where we took our ferry ride. Deanne grew up in Iowa and carp was big there. The sauce was full of grandmotherly love.
Afterwards, we did the Albanian stroll, the xhiro ( SHErow?). Like Spain's paseo, the Albanians like to see and be seen on an evening stroll. It's lovely.
On our last morning, we took a taxi to the edge of town to the Venice Mask Factory, where they make paper mache masks in the Venetian style for Carnival. The Venetians don't make them anymore. That was pretty cool and we bought a small one as a souvenir. A 1-minute video of it is here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ztodQE4xNuJy5gYP9
Addendum: I didn't want to write anything too negative about this town, but two days later Deanne and I both agreed that we really don't like this place! Deanne called it "scrotum" if that's any indication.
It's really just a jumping off point for other places so I wouldn't spend too much time here. They have no city buses that we can find . And taxis are incredibly difficult to find. I've traveled all over the world and I've never seen that in any city in any country! There's no bus station so there's buses that just randomly park everywhere so you have to hunt for the bus that goes to your city. They're getting so many tourists here, It's like they just don't care.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rD3wb5zx9HX2j7wVABaca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
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- Bagikan
- Hari 29–33
- 9 September 2024 14.30 - 13 September 2024
- 4 malam
- ☁️ 86 °F
- Ketinggian: 171 ft
AlbaniaSt. Thomas' Church40°42’13” N 19°56’58” E
Berat, Albania

It took two buses to get to Berat and despite the massive traffic in Tirana, we got here fairly quickly. There is no bus station in Tirana. Supposedly they're building one but boy is that parking lot a mess.
Berat is called the city of a thousand windows, and it's absolutely magical. It's an Ottoman City with a huge castle on the hill and ottoman-style houses built on the hills in terraced streets. There are a fair amount of us tourists here but not too many. We immediately fell in love with it, as opposed to Shkodra, which we really didn't like.
Deanne scored a great apartment in the center for a very cheap price. It's in a kind of ugly practical concrete building, but the inside is very nice and has some older furniture and a dated kitchen. We love it. The apartment manager met us at the bus stop and helped us with our bags. From our 4th floor bedroom we're overlooking the Orthodox Cathedral plaza and mountains. From the kitchen window we can see the castle and the 18th century Ottoman pedestrian bridge. What a score, and for less than 25% of what you'd pay in the United States!
A lot of people want to stay in guest houses that are in these ancient buildings up on the hills. While that sounds romantic, it also means that the rooms are very small and you have to carry your luggage up a bunch of cobblestone streets and steps. No thanks! We'll visit those places during the day without bags.
We booked two nights and within 18 hours we knew we wanted to stay longer and just booked two more nights. Luckily we have the time to build in extra days when we find a place like this. We usually just book lodging one or two days in advance, at most.
We had shifted gears because we were planning on going to the beach but the whole country has a rainy couple of days. We figured a rainy day in a beautiful city would be better than one on the beach.
We just had two excellent meals. Again, we haven't had a bad meal on this trip yet. What you call organic, Albanians call food. We're trying to sample all the local specialties: lamb, stuffed eggplant, local wine, meatballs, soups, salads, etc. I can't get enough! Thank god we're walking it off. At least I hope so.
We spent Wednesday morning exploring the castle on the hill overlooking the Osum River. It's more like a village that is within the castle walls. People still live there. At one point in history there were dozens of churches and mosques and now there are about eight that are still standing.
It was fun to walk around the narrow cobblestone lanes: very Game of Thrones-esque. The cistern to hold the castle water was literally within the Last Bastion. After a couple hours of that and a visit to a church with a large collection of Byzantine icons, we headed back to the main city and grabbed a light lunch. There were quite a few tour groups that got dropped off of buses up there so we were glad to get away from that.
On our last full day we decided we just didn't have the energy to book a tour to a waterfall or go hiking. We just wanted to chill and enjoy slow travel. We walked around town again with a free tour and learned some interesting facts about the area. Afterwards we went to a great restaurant and I ordered Tave Kosi, the Albanian national dish of lamb and yogurt. We made it in the Tirana cooking class. Let's just say that the restaurant version was much better!
We hiked the mile back up to the castle for sunset and we're glad we did. It was cool at the top and the views were stunning. Tomorrow we got to a beach for 4 days on "The Albanian Riviera.". Yuck it up, but remember that people used to make fun of Croatia not too long ago. It's just up the coast.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FQ8h23pLbgmBiM2w6Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 33–37
- 13 September 2024 15.00 - 17 September 2024
- 4 malam
- ⛅ 72 °F
- Ketinggian: 16 ft
AlbaniaFusha e Borshit40°2’48” N 19°51’14” E
Borsh, Albania

There is no shortage of beach places to stay at on the "Albanian Riviera." This stretch of coast on the Ionian Sea is beautiful and rugged. Just look at this one minute video for a glimpse.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/eXgLPz5EAdCefXHz8
It took 2 buses and about 8 hours to get here from Berat, with a change of buses in Vlore. We spotted lots of the small bunkers that the former dictator Enver Hoxha (HO jah) had built. There are almost 200,000 of them throughout the country.
Our first bus dropped us off at an intersection somewhere in Vlore. I had to ask about six people how to transfer and one guy even offered to give me a ride to the bus station but we wouldn't fit in his Smart car with our luggage! A taxi driver ended up taking us there through heavy traffic and even had to bypass a funeral procession.
Our bus hugged the coastline and the views were astounding. I had heard that Llogara pass was not to be missed but either fortunately or unfortunately, a tunnel underneath had been completed recently and we took that. It saved almost an hour of time and was much safer than the switchbacks up top.
Fun fact: Julius Caesar landed troops on this route to chase Pompey during a Roman civil war within a year of crossing the Rubicon in Italy in 49 BCE. They then went up and over that Llogara pass.
We chose to stay in Borsh, a small village with a wide beach that's not too busy, especially this time of year. We found a nice apartment a block from the beach and couldn't be happier. The beach is pebbly and the sea is rough but it's a great spot. Some restaurants and venues are closing for the season already! There's some spotty rain this week but we already had one full sunny day of beach lounging. And I swam in the Ionian Sea for the first time.
Yesterday was overcast and a little rainy so we climbed the castle up on the hill. Another one! Berat was much better but it's interesting walking around an abandoned castle in disrepair. We have one more day of beach lounging and then we're heading to Gjirokaster, the city of a thousand steps. They had to come up with a moniker to rival Berat's "City of a Thousand Windows."
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bMETK1nuqwSPyvPu6Baca selengkapnya
- Tampilkan perjalanan
- Tambahkan ke daftar bucketHapus dari daftar bucket
- Bagikan
- Hari 37–39
- 17 September 2024 12.15 - 19 September 2024
- 2 malam
- ☁️ 70 °F
- Ketinggian: 758 ft
AlbaniaGjirokastër40°4’42” N 20°8’15” E
Gjirokaster, Albania

We wisely hired the owners of our apartment in Borsh to drive us to Sarande. Otherwise we would have had to get a ride up to the road and wait in the rain for a bus to eventually come. No thanks!
Sarande is probably the equivalent of Cancun to Albania. Several Albanians warned us not to stay there because it's crowded and ugly. We're glad we didn't. But it's popular because it's a beach town and it's a short ferry ride to Corfu, a Greek island with a large airport. Many Europeans fly into Corfu on low budget airlines and then ferry it to Sarande, Albania.
We grabbed a bus to Gjirokaster from there. The city doesn't look like much from the lower part of town, but the touristy stuff is the beautiful mansions up in the hills in the Old Town. And there is a huge ancient castle here. Another one? They're pretty impressive and far different from castles in Northern Europe. They would hold whole villages within their walls and are perched on rocky acropolises.
Several of these old houses in town are museums now and we went to three different ones. One looked as it did 150 years ago, another one was slightly remodeled and the third one was totally remodeled. We really got our steps in the last 2 days as this is a very hilly city and its nicknamed the City of a Thousand Steps. Trust me, there are more than that.
At one of the museums we saw a guy wearing a Wisconsin shirt. He was from Milan and bought it at a second hand store. Milan, the heart of the fashion world.
We booked two nights in a very comfy apartment about halfway up to the old town, and that's plenty of time. While I like it here, it pales in comparison to Berat.
I spent most of this morning touring the castle and the military museum inside of it. Albania has a sad but interesting history. It was the home area of the Albanian Ottoman tyrant, Ali Pasha. His other headquarters were in Ionnina, Greece, where we just were 4 weeks ago. See https://findpenguins.com/0x7ax2pvwii8d/footprin…
Ionnina is only about 90 kilometers away, but it's across the Greek border now. Gjirokaster is also the hometown of the Communist dictator Enver Hoxha.
We're going to rent a car for the next 2 days so we can see some hot springs and go to a waterfall. Wish us luck! Renting a car here is weird. Basically a bunch of guys bought cars and just rent them out pretty casually.
More photos and videos are here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vrrbehXCqQ3aQrTg7Baca selengkapnya
This just reminded me that when my ex husband decided to make our planned trip to Greece in 2004 all about his marathon from Marathon to Athens I decided we needed to use that trip money for our divorce lawyers. 😣😒 [Shel]
Pelancong😬