Indonesien
Kabupaten Nias Barat

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    • Dag 59

      Back to Teluk Dalam

      21 september 2023, Indonesien ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

      Finally the rain had stopped. Whole island was already waiting for the ferry to leave, as prices for their roasted coconut shells, (waiting to be brought to coconut-oil-mill) were dropping. So after some depressing days, everybody was happy again, even if my heart cried for leaving this awesome people and island.
      Even island's dogs (one of them always slept in front of my rooms door 🥰) were saying goodbye, by crying and barking, when we left the beach with a small boat to get onto the ferry.
      Sea was so calm, sun was greeting between clouds, boat ride was peaceful, and I think I even saw a dolphin jumping out of the water, at the horizon.
      As ferry was fully loaded (around 6000 kilogramms of mostly coconut shells, collected from all islands of Hinako Islands group, worth around 0,40€/kilo), we went directly to Nias, no roundtrip, again.
      The Coast guard had parked my scooter and helmet in a garage, they were so kind and helpful! 🤗
      So I went back to the south of Nias at early noon, the weather was fine, the roads were soaking and little more damaged from the heavy rainfalls, but nothing to worry.
      Nearly made it without getting wet, but 40mins before arrival, some short but heavy rain catched me up.😅 After 15 mins rain became less, but didn't seem to stop, so me and my backpack got our raincoats, going on carefully.
      Finally back at Salty dogs, some of my friends there had already left, but most of our Crew was still on and nice beach waves at nearby Lugundri were seen.😎
      So I decided to practice some more surfing 🏄 and joining Scott onto the ferry back to Sumatra on Saturday.
      Saying goodbye to our host Arif and his family was heartbreaking, but my times here are unforgettable and hopefully we can stay in touch, at least by competing in chess games, online. 😎
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    • Dag 53

      Going to Hinako Islands

      15 september 2023, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

      After I told Ami, I met at Sri Lanka, that I'm heading to Nias, she wrote to me: "You have to go to Hinako Islands!", I took a look, and decided to follow this amazing recommendation.
      So taking my scooter still was cheaper than a private driver (no public transportation available), and as locals would most likely do the same, a bike ride should be fine. Warned about bad roads and packed with all my stuff I headed to Sirombu, a small town where the ferry should leave, should be a 3 hours ride. Should 😅
      As I got ahead very well, even as I took some breaks and rode smooth, I made a small detour to Moale beach, a huge beach with endless long, big wave brakes, at that day. Being the only person there and admiring the ocean's powerful waves, let me lose track of time, a little. 🙈
      Nothing to worry about, but I had to go.
      Passing amazing landscapes, lot of rice fields, and permanently greeting and waving people, a very nice ride, but suddenly the roads were really bad.
      Learnt something: If Google Maps tells you, upcoming 20 kilometers will take 1,25 hours, some crazy roads are ahead. Huge holes, washed away streets, leaving stones, damaged concrete roads, more holes as road, haven't seen roads like this since rural areas of Cambodia.
      Exhausting, but finally done, arrived at the port, got informed there is only coast guard station, Pier for my ferry is on the other side of peninsula. Parked my scooter at the coast guard (Thanks Robi! 😊) and went on the tiny little ferryboat to Hinako Islands.
      Of course I was the only foreigner, some surfers just jumped on a speedboat, when I arrived at the Pier.
      Sitting on the roof of the boat, together with a group of young teachers, exchanging actual teachers on the main island of Hinakos, a chilled, but wave rocking ride started. 🤩
      Visiting one island after the other, unloading daily goods, construction materials or even two scooters, was fascinating to watch. Locals are already waiting on the Pier, to take their ordered goods and bring into their homes. Some carrying, some by scooters, some with huge trolleys. Lot of bags, Kartons, boxes, going around, rice, fruits, vegetables, beverages, food, ice boxes,... But also construction materials, like a ton of cement, wooden panels and boards, it was unbelievable, how many goods this small boat can carry 😲😅.
      After unloading, huge bags of roasted coconut shells are weighed and loaded, before leaving and heading to the next island.
      So, finally, after around 5 hours of round trip at Hinako Islands, we arrived at Pulau Asu, a beautiful tiny paradise in the Indian ocean.🥰
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    • Dag 56

      Paradise Pulau Asu - Hinako Islands

      18 september 2023, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Tiny island Asu is a gem, a hidden paradise, where the Indian Ocean hits Sumatra.
      Arriving there by night, getting awesome food served, had an early, deep sleep and woke up, when the sun rose up at my window.
      Fell in love immediately with that unbelievably beautiful island, white sand beach, crystal clear turquoise blue water, surrounded by huge palm trees, growing all over the island. 🥰
      There are only around 50 people living on that island, since around 100 people left their destroyed housings on the island after 2005's earthquake. Interestingly 2004's tsunami didn't hit the island hard, as it's surrounded by deep waters, but the big earthquake, half a year later, traumatized lot of people there. As it's still visible at several points, this earthquake lifted up the whole island for around 3 meters and changed the shape of the island's shoreline massively.
      At Ina Silvi Cottage, aka Mama Silvi's, I had great times, even if there was a lot of rain, my last days there.
      As her husband, who passed away around half a year ago, was sort of the island's chief, now Mama Silvi is running all the important businesses here. Her daughter and some of the workers' wives are running kitchen and hospitality services, one of her sons is running the all islands connecting ferryboat I've arrived with, her son-in-law is the doctor for all of Hinako Islands and Mama Silvi is the managing center of all.
      She is an amazing, fascinating, strong and smart person, caring about the whole island's community, worrying about any issue happening on the island and giving support to anybody who needs it.
      Having nice talks with her was one of my best experiences here, asides from visiting the tiny village with all the welcoming, friendly people living there. But exploring the reefs with my snorkel (thank God for my new prescription goggles from Günthers Tauchertreff in Vienna! 😊), and walking around on the small paths all over the island, watching the huge waves hitting island's wide reefs was great, too!
      And finally, visiting one of the two surf camps, close to the surfspot, meeting some crazy addicted surfers from all ages from all over the world, watching them riding the incredible >3-meters-waves, was so amazing to see! 😍
      Due to a lot of rain during my last days there, I had an additional night, as the ferryboat wasn't able to be loaded and didn't go, for two days.
      Amazing to experience island's life up- and downsides, struggles and highlights.
      Finally I left the island during a beautiful sunrise, with my heart full of joy.
      Hopefully I'm able to improve my surfskills, so I can come back again, one day, to ride these huge waves and visit Mama Silvi again!
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