Dead centre of town

The trusty guidebook sent Craig, Kate and me to Mirogoj Cemetery about 3.7km from our apartment today. We set off in 1°C and fog so it added a nice ambience to our meandering through Zagreb's largest cemetery in addition to very cold fingers and chin. Of note was the 500m of arched palisade however it was blocked off from access for some reason. The cemetery went on forever and we could not see the end through the fog. It is estimated about 300,000 people are buried here and large family sites were the norm.

To get some respite from the cold we decided to stop for a coffee. The first coffee shop had mournful singing coming from it, and given we had seen people leaving a funeral we decided to leave them be. The next caffe bar was full of smokers so we had a lot of smoke with a side of coffee... The things you do to get warm and do a pee!

We meandered back into town to give Kate her curry fix over a lazy lunch before walking through Tunnel Grgic which is part of a network underground tunnels built during WWII as an air raid shelter and then used again during the Homeland War 1991-1995. There was an art installation called Polar Dream in the centre section.

We then decided on some lunch dessert at a cafe before heading home. Dinner at the advent markets for our last night in Croatia, with sausage, pizza, kebabs, donuts and kahuna gin.Read more