Ireland
Limerick

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    • Day 74

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 9

      June 26, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Seven years ago today the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in favor of same-sex marriage. While Jim C and I had already been granted that right by a vote of the people on Washington state nearly three years earlier, it was a momentous day for those who lived in the "have-not" states as well as other federal rights granted to us by the narrow ruling. It's not lost on us that too many women, particularly those without resources will likely suffer in the "have not" states.

      My reflection of Limerick today as we walked around the city is that there were several examples of the labor movement to help give rights and voice to the people, and in this case to the fight for Ireland's independence. It was a good reminder that it's not enough to just be angry, but to channel that anger into action for the common good, and to hold our governmental institutions accountable when they fail to remember that it's their purpose as well. Seeking support in polite ways does not persuade oppressors.

      I wanted to visit Limerick because it is the city where my maternal grandfather's family came from. His parents were married here and his oldest brother was born here before the family moved to rural New York. I'm named for him. I have not approached my genealogical research about his family with the same zeal in finding my grandmother's roots because my grandfather was a horrible human being. I've been curious about his lineage, and I have many questions about the family who created such an abysmal soul. I suspect those questions will remain unanswered, and I choose to emulate the light of his wife, my grandmother instead.

      Limerick is a gritty city. You can sense its industrial past and its effort to recast itself. One can see more evidence of poverty and struggle, and I admire the city for its past and aspirations for a better future.

      We began our day with a massive Irish breakfast while we watched the weather change about every five minutes from drizzle to sun to downpours. Next to us a young family was introducing their toddler son to the joys of Nutella, and while we watched him wear more that he managed to eat, we smiled as we recalled recent photos of Olive's wearing much of a recent Nutella treat as well.

      We walked by the now closed Frank McCourt museum, the author of "Angela's Ashes" a very tough autobiography of a difficult life. The museum was in sn old schoolhouse created by bequeathed funds from a wealthy man who wanted to help the poor. It's a poweful story of a wealthy person helping those less fortunate.

      We decided to take advantage of a break in the weather and we wandered to People's Park. The park was opened in the late 1800's by a wealthy businessman who wanted to create a planned space for the populace. I was moved by a monument dedicated to parents who had lost young children. I loved the efforts of artists to create beautiful wood sculptures of trees uprooted by a severe windstorm. And I loved children's chalk drawings by of a rainbow heart on a park bench, a love offering by the innocents.

      Like many Americans, I'm angry about living in a country that has lost its soul. Limerick's lesson for me today reminded me of the power of love, the power of the labor movement and organizing, the power of creation, and the beauty of youth. I'm grateful for the reminder.
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    • Day 76

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 11

      June 28, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      We woke up to very welcome glimpses of sunny skies and a rainbow overlooking the multi-hued bay from our room in Castlegregory. After a hearty breakfast, and an amiable conversation about unions and politics back home with our gracious hosts, we hit the road.

      I had discovered an app outlining many points of interest along the Wild Atlantic Way. We decided to select some spots before heading back to our Limerick Hotel.

      We drove by the 1800 Blennerville Windmill, just outside of the town of Tralee, which reminded us of sites in Holland. Although the visitor center was closed, we did get a look at the windmill that still grinds grain today.

      We stopped next at the Ardfert Cathedral ruins dating back from the 12th century. Like many of our visits to church ruins, I find the adjacent cemeteries to be fascinating due to evidence of ancient gravesites mixed with markers of those who have passed in more recent times.

      For our next stop, we decided to check out the Bromore Cliff outside the village of Ballybunion.
      The site is now privately owned and required an honor system donation of 5€. The walk along the freshly mown grass path divided by a wire fence revealed spectacular 60 meter cliffs and waterfalls. The wind was quite strong giving Wyoming's wind a "Hold my beer" competition. At times, I could barely maintain my footing or hold onto my phone to take photos. There were several informational signs along the way. One pointed out that the waterfalls had nearly a reverse flow on windy days. Sure enough, I was able to catch photos and videos of the spray of the waterfall being blown back up the cliff. In the center of the walk was a small structure identified as a WWII lookout space. I imagined how lonely that task might be.

      As we made our way back to the car, a truck drove up, and it became apparent that this elderly farmer checked to see if we had paid admission. After ostensibly seeing that we did, he asked if we wanted a receipt and he offered a nearly toothless grin and he wanted to make sure that we had enjoyed our visit.

      Given that the sunny weather seemed to be holding steady and exceeding expectations of the forecast we decided to alter our destination and head toward the famed Cliffs of Moher. To get there, we opted to take the Tarbert-Kilrush Ferry across the Shannon River. It was a fun experience, and it reminded me of the small ferry that my parents would take us on across the Connecticut River when I was quite young. The wind remained quite blustery and the waves of the river crashed over the ferry platform several times.

      Kilrush is home to the Victorian Vandeleur walled gardens. We decided to explore the gardens and get a light lunch. We enjoyed the walk in the garden and getting a bit lost in the shrubbery maze. I immediately started singing "English Country Garden" that I pulled from some long lost brain cell of my youth. Jim C had never heard of it, and I played a clip of it for him.
      We enjoyed our lunch and watched children's shrieks of excitement at the ice cream stand.

      Our last stop of the day was the Cliffs of Moher. I had often seen photos of this site, and I do have to admit that it was one of my favorite vistas of the whole trip. The views really are breathtaking, and we were pleasantly surprised that the wind wasn't bad and the sun remained.

      It took us about an hour to return to Limerick. We enjoyed a great meal at a local Asian fusion restaurant, and we joined a local online acquaintance for several pints of Guinness at Gleeson's White House, the oldest pub in Limerick. We had a great conversation with him, sharing favorite music artists and life stories. As the locals say, it was a "grand" way to cap an eventful day.
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    • Day 27

      Adare

      May 29, 2023 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Our first stop after leaving Limerick was the pretty little village of Adare, on the River Maigue. It is a town of thatched cottages and three abbey's dating back to the 12th century. It has a manor house that is now a golf course and hotel.Read more

    • Day 85

      87ème étape ~ Ballyneety

      October 26, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Malheureusement, la météo irlandaise nous a obligé à annuler 2 activités… 😭
      La pluie et la grêle ont eu raison de notre excursion en mer et de notre randonnée.
      Nous nous sommes donc dirigés vers une ferme qui nous a accueilli pour la nuit.
      Nous y avons fait une petite balade et avons profité de notre dernière soirée avec notre amie Morgane. 🥰
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    • Day 26

      Foynes Flying boat museum

      September 24, 2023 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      In 1937 Foynes was chosen as the main hub for flying boats crossing the Atlantic to/from America and onwards to the rest of the world. Until 1945 the hub flourished with new planes and new tech gradually making the journey across the Atlantic more reliable. Ultimately planes became powerful enough to reliably cross the Atlantic in one flight and the better runways developed during WW2, spelt the end of this golden age. It's a great story and the service also played a great part of the allies success in WW2. Maureen O'Hara married one of the pilots who developed the service and she was involved in setting up the museum so part of the exhibition is dedicated to her. Also we get to stay overnight in the museum carpark gratis, having paid for the museum. 😁Read more

    • Day 45

      Ireland- in a storm

      September 27, 2023 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Storm Agnes hit Ireland today and made for a miserable, wet and windy day. We missed the worst of it but only inside activities and driving were possible.
      We left Cleggan- and drove The Wild Atlantic way around the coast to Galway. We skirted Galway as it was too hard to find parking. Drove through the Burran, a rocky rural part of Ireland where glacial action combined with farmers stripping the trees have rise to the barren rocky landscape. Visited the Burran Centre in Kilfenora which was most informative. Too misty, windy and wet to get out of the car at the Cliffs of Moher which was a shame as they are most dramatic. Drove to Kilmihill for the night.Read more

    • Day 73

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 8

      June 25, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      This was a rainy travel day as we made our way up to Limerick by way of Kenmare and Killarney.
      I have to admit that when I hear the town name Killarney it immediately triggers an earworm of Bing Crosby crooning "Christmas in Killarney".
      Perhaps that's fitting as Bing Crosby was absolutely my maternal grandmother's favorite singer.

      Today felt like it could be Christmas time as it was cold and blustery for most of our travels. We enjoyed the change in terrain as the area became more mountainous with constant of green peppered with limestone rocks and lakes. Our drive was along the eastern section of the famous Ring of Kerry which is considered to be one of the most spectacular loops in Ireland.

      We pulled off the road periodically to take photos although the 14°C chilly temps and rain caused us to retreat rather quickly to our car.

      We stopped for a light lunch in Kenmare and we enjoyed a brief walk there.

      We traveled in part of Killarney National Park, but we think we mostly remained on the perimeter. We enjoyed an easy walk up to Torc Falls which reminded us of waterfall walks in Maine and the Pacific NW. Throughout our trip, we have played the game "What state does it feel like we're in now?" Today's answer: The Front Range outside of Fort Collins, Colorado.

      We didn't stop in Killarney. It did seem to be packed with tourists, and we were happy to miss the fray.

      About an hour outside of Limerick, we noticed the land flattened out again.

      We arrived around 4 pm in our Limerick hotel. We have a view of the River Shannon out of our window, and we noticed athletes training for the swimming portion of triathlon training. We haven't explored much of the city yet. This is the land of my maternal grandfather's family, and I'm looking forward to exploring the area.

      We concluded the evening with pizza and beer at a local pub while watching Gaelic football a hybrid of soccer and rugby. It was interesting trying to make sense of the play and scoring.

      Today marks three weeks left until we return home. We're excited to absorb more of Ireland, but we're also feeling the "tug" of home calling to us. It sounds like Portland is finally getting long overdue sun and hot temperatures.

      Sweet dreams from Limerick.
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    • Day 26

      Limerick

      May 28, 2023 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      The terrific weather continued and Limerick was abuzz when we arrived, as the local team were playing Cork in hurling, with Limerick needing to win to make the Championship Final, which they did. We saw the crowds making their way to the stadium, then we watched a fair bit of the game at the hotel when we arrived. Hurling is a great game to watch.

      King Johns Castle on the River Shannon is at the centre of Limerick. It was designed as a defensive castle, not one to be lived in and was built on the site of an old Viking fortress.

      The River Shannon is the longest river in Ireland and it flows through 11 counties.

      Dinner was at the hotel. The Irish and British sure know how to do pub fish and chips and also pub pies and chips. And we haven't had a bad beer yet.
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    • Day 22

      Lost in Ballyhoura Bike Park

      July 28, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Heute war mal wieder BIKEN angesagt! Wir fuhren zum grössten Bike Park Irlands und wollten uns selbst über seine Grösse und Qualität überzeugen. Wir waren so happy wieder auf dem Bike zu sein und hatten echt Spass die Trails zu fahren. Schlussendlich fuhren wir so weit weg vom Startpunkt des Parks, dass wir zuletzt mehr bergauf als bergab gefahren sind. 😅 Schadete uns aber nicht 😇🤙Die Nacht verbringen wir hier auf dem Parking und gehen morgen früh nochmals ein paar Trails shreddern! 🚲

      Cheers 🤙

      PS:...heute fängt leider bereits die letzte Woche unserer Reise an 🥲
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    • Day 10

      Tag 10 Lough Gur

      August 8, 2023 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Ein nieseliger Tag begrüßt uns mit einem mittelmäßigen Frühstück. Nun ja, dann werten wir ihn eben mit etwas Steinzeit auf. Lough Gur ist ein wunderschöner kleiner See südlich von Limerick. Dort sind bedeutende Funde der Steinzeit sichtbar. Das Besucherzentrum vermittelt einen guten Eindruck und der Spaziergang draußen einen wunderbaren Blick über die hügelige Landschaft. Das Wetter bleibt feucht, aber warm. Jede Jacke ist zu viel. Der Steinkreis ist der größte Irlands und liegt zwischen Kuhweiden an der Straße. Auf engen Straßen fahren wir zurück und versuchen das Museum des 🏉 Thomond Stadion (Rugby Profis Region Munster) zu besuchen. Leider macht es erst donnerstags auf. Am Shannon gibt es dann den 5 o'clock Drink. Ein Spaziergang zum Castle rundet den Tag ab.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Limerick City and County Council, Limerick

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