Hornillos de Camino (20.1km / 303.4km)

The walk out of Burgos was confusing at times and we slept on the other side so had to walk through the centre. We left Burgos later than we should have on a warmish day after an obligatory “cafe solo” near the Cathedral. It’s not quite as peaceful as leaving a small village at sunrise but we were on our way.

In the tiny village of Rabe de lid Calzados they had painted bright murals from bible scenes and there was a small church open, Ermita de Nuestra Senora de Monasterio. When Jane popped in her head the nun seemed very pleased as a lot of people just walk past. She was very sweet gave us each a “miraculous medal” and a blessing.

From that point we enter the Maseta. The landscape changes from lush farmlands and hills to more sandy / desert like and flatter land and the heat intensifies.

With this change in landscape We are entering stage 2 of the Camino (see yesterday photo) entering the mental phase.

So the walking isn’t as tough on the body but the lack of variety and heat test the mental side. We had a taste of the heat in our after lunch stint from 1 to 3 pm which was enough to convince us to wake and leave early. The village we are staying in, Hornilla de Camino translates as “small stove of the Camino” - a warning indeed! Fortunately the weather forecast is for a cold snap - let’s hope it is accurate.

After the usual admin we went to a local mass which is very unusual in such a small village. The priest obviously travels and arrived at 6:05 for 6pm mass! There were about 15 pilgrims and only 2 could speak Spanish which made things interesting. After mass the priest gathered us around the alter as we each read the pilgrims prayer in our own language and then sang a hymn in French! He then had a photo taken with us all and stamped our credentials.

The Albergue had a communal dinner of salad, paella, red wine and yoghurt. We sat near a group of friendly young Italians and a Spaniard and then a British mom and daughter and a lady from the US Idaho. Good fun as usual with all the languages.Read more