• Jane Walsh
  • Anthony Walsh
Apr – Jun 2023

Camino

“May our eyes be opened to what is not seen” Baca lagi
  • Permulaan perjalanan
    13 April 2023
  • What is the Camino de Santiago?

    13 April 2023, Singapura ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is a renowned pilgrimage of medieval origin that sees pilgrims journey to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in the northwest of Spain.
    Legend has it that the remains of the Apostle St. James the Great were buried in the Cathedral and discovered by a shepherd in the 9th century. The city of Santiago is named after St. James: Santiago de Compostela means St. James of the Field of Stars.

    There is actually no singular starting point for the Camino de Santiago. There are many different routes to Santiago and in turn many starting points.

    The reason for the huge variety in starting points is that the original pilgrims would have commenced their Camino journeys from their own homes. So that’s why so many different Camino ways have emerged over the centuries.

    We will be walking The Camino Frances, also known as the French Way, which is the most famous and most popular of the Camino routes ever since the Middle Ages.

    This route is 800km long and takes about 5 weeks to walk. We have chosen to start the journey from St Jean Pied de Port in France but you also can start at any point along the route.
    Baca lagi

  • Lourdes - Spiritual preparation

    15 April 2023, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After months of physical and mental preparation, today was a day of Spiritual Preparation while discovering Lourdes.
    At first, the scale of touristy memorabilia shops made me think it was going to be a tick box process.
    But once in the Sanctuary it was Peaceful, prayerful, incredibly welcoming and a Blessing to witness. The Lourdes sanctuary precinct exists because of the 18 Apparitions of our Lady to St Bernadette. The message of Lourdes is “through Mary to Jesus”.
    Our highlight was the water gesture ceremony, a private process led by a Sister determined to ensure our experience was beautiful, moving and meaningful. The water gesture is a spiritual cleansing / healing of water, from the same Spring St Bernadette was told to wash in. We attended a Gregorian Chant Mass, spent some time at the grotto, lit a candle for all those we are holding in our prayers, a wonderful walking tour, walking in the steps of St Bernadette, by one of the Sisters, who challenged us to question ourselves and reflect. We attended the Procession of the Holy Eucharist in the underground Basilica that can accommodate 20,000 people! We ended our day with the most beautiful candlelight procession, attended by 1000s, all reciting, in unity, the rosary in their own language. I had my Mum’s rosary with me and I held her in my prayers.
    Baca lagi

  • St Jean Pied de Port - Practice Rest Day

    17 April 2023, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Practicing a rest day!
    Today was a serious practice day. Having rest days on the Camino revives the body and helps focus on “smelling the roses” and not just the destination. So we put in a big effort.
    When we first travelled together for 15 months in 1995, long before iPhones and cheap phone calls we used to write home every few weeks. This morning, Jane’s sister, Louise was reminiscing on those letters and that more than half the content was on the food we had eaten that day. We pretty much tried everything on offer. She begged us for a food day just to make it an even tougher day. So, here it is - a rest and food day. And, because it is a rest day we will let the pictures do most of the talking although some need a little explanation.
    In short, we spent the day in the beautiful town of St Jean Pied de Port (founded in the 12th century), the starting point of the Camino Frances. Welcoming, warm people who patiently listened to my broken French and answered me in perfect English, lovely food and daunting views of the Pyrenees mountains which we will tackle tomorrow! The town is filled with Pilgrims like us. We strolled along the ramparts of the old town walls. We sent off our excess Post Camino (PC) luggage to Santiago and ended the day with a Mass in the local church (beautiful 14th-century church of Notre Dame du Bout du Pont (Our Lady at the End of the Bridge), which is made of the local pink Arradoy stone and sits beside the gateway onto the bridge over the river). Mass ended with a Pilgrim blessing for the commencement of our Camino. The priest asked us all to say where we were from, Brazil, England, France, Switzerland, Australia, USA, Canada and Czech! His English was non existent so he called me (Ant) up to read the translated English blessing. He proceeded to issue instructions to me in French so I hope I didn’t exceed my authority!
    One of the pictures that might need explaining is the location where I did our clothes washing. The automated laundromat is outside, right next to the car wash! An interesting business model and I’m really glad it wasn’t raining.

    Ok Louise - the good bit …
    A traditional French buffet breakfast (had to try the normal and chocolate croissant), a ham and cheese baguette for lunch along the river finished off with a traditional cherry Basque gateau (Perhaps there was the odd almond or citrus macaroon in between?? )
    After a traditional Basque dinner and local red wine last night (veal stew and chicken) we had a beautiful fresh trout tonight from the local river and tried a different bottle of red. Love the 500ml bottles. Dessert the waitress asked? Why not? Jane had a vanilla basque gateau and I had fresh pear. Honestly there was pear buried under the ice cream and cream!
    Our conclusion - we are really, really good at food and rest! Really excited to tackle the big climb tomorrow.
    Baca lagi

  • Orisson (7.5km)

    18 April 2023, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We’re finally actually walking. A lovely first day. Beautiful weather gave stunning views of the Pyrenees during our walk. A short but steep walk to begin with climbing 700m. Smashed it!
    In the evening all the pilgrims (60 ish) ate together at long tables with a shared meal. We each gave a brief intro and the reason we were on the Camino. Many interesting people and stories from many different countries.Baca lagi

  • Roncesvalles (16.8km / 24.3km)

    19 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We started off with stunning conditions. The sunrise over the Pyrenees was breathtaking. We had a communal breakfast - very simple but nice to be seated with everyone. Coffee was served in a soup bowl! Had lovely Face Time calls with Theresa and Shannon and then - We rounded a corner and the wind hit us and it pretty much stayed with us the whole day. Gusts of gale force winds , piercingly cold. A head wind while climbing, climbing, climbing. The scenery did a good job at distracting the difficult conditions. A good break at a van who had parked out of the wind, and served delicious and much needed coffee. We continued to climb. We crossed over a cow grid and entered Spain just like that. More climbing and a bit of a relief while walking through a muddy forest. We found a good spot to eat our baguettes which we ordered at last nights accommodation. We eventually caught sight of the Albergue (Historical Pilgrim Hospital) which was our destination, far down below. So now for the climb down, down, down. The Pilgrim Hostel is huge and sleeps hundreds. We are in a bunk room of 4. A much needed beer or two, and reminiscing on the difficult day with other pilgrims before another communal dinner followed by Mass. An unexpected surprise after mass. The priest gave a Pilgrim Blessing and then invited us to stay for a tour of the church. He enthusiastically told us about the history of the church in 3 languages and then took us down to the crypt where he orchestrated an impromptu “Amazing Grace”. Time for these weary legs to head off to bed!Baca lagi

  • Lintzoain (13.4km/37.7k)

    20 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We woke up to the most gentle group “alarm”, a Gregorian chant softly playing through the loudspeakers, followed by a less gentle turning on of the lights and then a healthy baritone walking the corridors singing us awake and making sure we all left by 7am! Then the now normal process of getting dressed, packing backpacks, eating our communal breakfast, boots on and get on our way.
    This morning was quite fresh walking along near the river through the forests. We walked in the most peaceful environment of forests, shaded country lanes between farms and through 3 tiny villages. Just as we had imagined the Camino.
    We had decided before the start of the Camino to start slowly and build up so today was a bit if a recovery day with a slow paced “stroll” to Lintzoain, a tiny village that doesn’t have a shop or restaurant or ….
    The highlight of the day was chatting to the other pilgrims before and during dinner. Somehow between the 9 of us I think we had an inclusive conversation in Spanish, French and English. There were the 2 of us, 2 ladies from Barcelona, 2 ladies from France, a couple from America and a lady from Korea. Add in the crazy Spanish hostess who treated us to a local meal of potato soup, pork and pasta accompanied with red wine followed by a local “Crème brûlée” type dessert topped off with a Pacharan liqueur from the local Navarra region. Now off to bed for an early start tomorrow! Beunos Noches.
    Baca lagi

  • Trinidad de Arre (24.3km / 62km)

    21 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We were too tired to post last night! Lets just say the day did not go according to plan and our humility and patience were tested.
    Communal breakfast with the group was lovely! The walk was beautiful as the pictures will show.
    But the story of the day was that things don’t always go to plan but “the Camino provides” as we have heard so often!
    We really wanted to stay at the the Albergue run by the Sacred Heart Sisters in Zabaldika so we booked the night before and set off early for our 21km walk. The first part included a really steep decline on difficult rocky surface into Zubiri. We revived ourselves with a coffee and maybe shared a chocolate croissant. Our planned lunch place was closed so we walked another 4km to Zuriain. Then the last stretch to the Albergue. When we got there the person in front of us got the last bed. I showed my text confirmation but they said they don’t take reservations. This was the first night they had been full and were surprised themselves. Disappointed and tired we set off for another hour to the next town, Trinidad de Arre, staying in a municipal hostel in a room with 20 others. We went to mass and had a quick dinner and then to bed.
    A sister from the convent came to the hostel with other pilgrims and asked for us, checking that we had found a bed and apologised that they were full. She was lovely and gave us tips on other “Religious” Albergues to stay at in the coming days.
    We will reflect on the day in time but for now it is a reminder that the best made plans don’t always work out and that is ok! We’re off to Pamplona today, a short walk and play tourist.
    Baca lagi

  • Pamplona (4.6km / 66.6km)

    22 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a more gentle wake up today if that is possible filled with a room of 20 bunks. I had a much better sleep than anticipated, only one gentle snorer. We had a short walk today into Pamplona and it was raining, so we elected to do a load of washing while we had breakfast, at a local laundromat. We made good use of our rain gear while we took the short walk into Pamplona. We were met with ancient city walls and medieval building which are so impressive. We checked into our municipal Albergue - Jesus y Maria, which is right next door to the impressive Cathedral. The Albergue is huge - has 2 floors and sleeps over 100 - our dorm has 25. Our neighbours, 1m away are a Canadian Grandfather and his grandson.
    It was good to catch up with pilgrims from previous nights and swap notes. We wondered the old city of Pamplona, soaking up the vibe. The main square is impressive and loved by the locals. After a short break we returned for dinner, sampling the pinchos (tapas type counter food) and shared a paella. The city comes alive and was bursting with people (mostly locals). We’ve had enough to eat but just can’t go to bed before sampling a local Churro for Theresa! But it was closed 😞! Maybe tomorrow
    Baca lagi

  • Zariquiegui (10.9km 77.5km)

    23 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After a great tourist day in Pamplona we had a breakfast on the main square with a couple of other French Pilgrims ending their Camino as they do it in segments over a few years with their leave. Then went to a traditional Latin mass in the Cathedral. We set off at mid-day for the small town walking through beautiful farm land. I think Jane wanted some time alone as she sent me off to buy some lunch in a small village while she walked on. I caught up about an hour later just before our destination in San Andres Albergue in Zariquiegui! The small Albergue had a communal meal which is one of the highlights of the Camino highlights. Tonight we sat with Canadians and French (a young couple who live in Toulouse, France. They left their home town on foot and will walk all the way to Santiago and then onto Fatima, and then will reverse the whole trip back home. They hope to take 60 days!)
    The Camino is very busy this year and there is a bit of a rush to get to the next accommodation as they are filling fast. We are booking more than we would like and therefore walking a bit less too but it is working for us rather than being so focussed on getting to the next town. Forcing some patience onto me maybe …
    Beunos Noches 💤
    Baca lagi

  • Puente la Reina (14.6km / 90.4km)

    24 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today was a lovely walk - perfect weather. We had a quick stand up breakfast before starting on our way. We ascended the hill out of town and through the middle of the wind turbines. We reached the summit of Alto del Perdon, where there is an impressive monument to Pilgrims with stunning views back over towards Pamplona. We had a coffee break at Uterga and then elected to do a short detour (1.7 km) to Eunate to see the very well preserved Romanesque Church of Santa Maria built in the 12 Century. Wonderful acoustics - A pilgrim sang Salve Regina - beautiful. We continued on through Obanos before reaching our destination for the night at Albergue Padres Reparadores ( 100 beds split into open dorms) in Puente la Reina (Queens bridge which was built to support the safe movement of the increasing number of medieval pilgrims). It is located opposite the Church of the Crucifixtion. We walked through the ancient town and caught up with some Spanish pilgrims from a few days back, found a spot for lunch before heading back to the Albergue for a much needed shower.
    At the end of mass at Iglesia San Pedro (there are 3 churches within a stones throw) the priest invited the pilgrims up for a blessing and gave us each a cross on a necklace. He then invited us into his office to stamp our Camino passports. What a lovely gesture.
    Time for a meal and then bed …
    Baca lagi

  • Villateurta (18km / 108.4km)

    25 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our entire walk was through farmlands today. The numerous wild poppies reminding us that today is Anzac Day - honouring those who served Australia and New Zealand in battle.

    We passed through wheatfields, canola, olive groves, new and established vineyards, “mange-tout” snowpeas and other beans.

    An amazing combination to the farms were the ancient Roman roads, bridges and tunnels we passed through on our journey.

    Cirauqui was one of the towns we passed through, a medieval hilltop village made more famous in the movie “The Way”. A stunning backdrop as we approached.

    We spoilt ourselves with a private room and our own bathroom in Villateurta, ( Casa Magica), a restored medieval building and were treated to a home made Paella with other pilgrims and the now obligatory vino!

    A quiet evening turned on its head when a Group of about 15 Portuguese men arrived! They found some musical instruments and the concert began. They sang some traditional Portuguese revolution songs and ….? A lovely evening.
    Baca lagi

  • Villamayor de Monjardin (13.1km/121.5km)

    26 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We only had a 13k walk today so stopped and explored along the way. The terrain has started to change from lush farmlands to more stony rock. The next few days will be interesting to see the gradual change.
    In Ayegui, there is a free wine and water fountain. We had a sample of wine at 10am! We went into the refreshingly cool and peaceful cloisters and church of the monastery of Irache before setting off in the now rather warm weather for a steady uphill walk. We had a much needed lunch break at Azqueta before tackling the steep uphill to our next stop, Villamayor de Monjardin, where we met up with now familiar friends, having a salt foot bath and a beer while we caught up. The Oasis Albergue (accomodates 21, our room had 5) is run by volunteers with a strong community spirit and they provided a lovely terrace meal as the sun was setting. The meal was cooked by a Portuguese volunteer. The evening ended with a meditation.
    Baca lagi

  • Torres del Rio (19.6km / 141.1km)

    27 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We packed up in the dark while our roommates (a Pom Elderly Mum and her son) still slept. Had a takeaway breakfast and were on our way. The heat set in quite soon and not much shade but thankfully a fairly flat day. We were distracted by talking to other pilgrims along the way, getting to know quite a few now and we keep cross crossing paths. It was a long stretch of 12 km before our first town, Los Arcos, where we had a much needed “2nd breakfast”. It took some time to learn our coffee order but we are now enjoying the espresso coffee. We had a beautiful backdrop of Iglesia de Santa Maria. We set off again in the heat and had a much needed freshly squeezed orange juice at Sansol before our final short leg to our destination for the day at Torres del Rio. We treated ourselves to a private room (and bathroom), so really enjoyed the beautiful shower before adventuring out. We had a look at the exquisite Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro linked to the Knights Templar and based on the octagonal church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. We forced ourselves to have a much needed beer at one of the terraces linked to an Albergue with plenty of chattering pilgrims, and then another before a lovely communal dinner - this time with no other pilgrims that we had met before, from a variety of countries. I am sure we will meet plenty of them somewhere along the way …..Baca lagi

  • Logrono (20.2km / 161.3km)

    28 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We got an early start without bothering fellow pilgrims in our private room with our own en-suite!! Our target for the day was to get to the Albergue Parroquoil de Santiago in Logrono early enough to get a bed! It is the Albergue run by the local parish volunteers, so we had breakfast at sunrise.
    We decided to walk alone today so A could get to the Albergue at opening time without rushing J. Apart from the “knee wrecking” decent out of the town, It was supposed to be an easy 20km walk but we both found it hard on our feet. Anyway, we got a bed this time.
    Highlights along the way were the food caravan selling coffee and snacks, a busker playing his Spanish guitar as we climbed a hill. J made a couple of wrong turns but redirected by locals, one who was driving a tractor and hooted madly.
    We both appreciated the breeze at our back encouraging us along at the end of the day - The Holy Spirit responding to the blessings (May the wind always be at your back…)
    We strolled really really slowly around the town to enjoy a cold beer and some Pinchos. The Cathedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda was incredibly large and decorated.
    The volunteers encouraged us all to attend mass at 7:30 at iglisia de Santiago el Real, , followed by a communal meal and then back to the church for Albergue community evening prayers through a secret tunnel from the Albergue into the church.

    Washing the dishes after dinner was an entertaining automated process.

    Good night !
    Baca lagi

  • Ventosa (19.5km / 180.8km)

    29 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    That was the most active night outside our Albergue! It was Friday night and the locals came out to play Lograno! The wildlife could still be heard at 4am. Not sure if it was something special or a normal Friday night!
    We had a much slicker pack up process in the shared rooms and set off early and stopped at a local bakery on the way.
    The walk was through the city to exit (a lot more noise than we have been used to) and then past the dam and into vineyard territory. We only passed one town Navarrete where we had lunch and popped into yet another stunning church (Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción) for such small town. Then a beautiful approach to our destination, Ventosa. After the regular process of check-in (they couldn’t find our reservation for a private room but luckily had a bed in an 8 bed dorm, shower, wash clothes, dry and then head off to the town for a drink / dinner.
    We ate with an NZ couple at 1 of the 2 dining options in town then back for an early night. Beunos Noches!
    Baca lagi

  • Najere (10.3km / 190km)

    30 April 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today was half walk / half rest. Our walk was mostly walking through vineyards with some lovely cloud formations. A relaxing walk! We even had a song just for us from a busker en route!
    We arrived in Najare as a medieval festival was starting. They had period dressing, games, food and the odd parade. It was still going strong as we headed home from dinner for bed. Some lovely and not so lovely local delicacies. The chorizo burger and Santiago cake hit the spot but not sure about the “pig cheek”!
    We went to Sunday mass at 1pm in yet another impressive local church. We visited the Monasterio de Santa María la Real which was built in the 12th century and rebuilt in the 15th. We were able to go into the cloisters, incredibly high ceiling church and the sepulchre (tomb).
    We caught up for drinks and dinner with 2 new sets of pilgrims. It’s amazing how, in the middle of a busy town you can spot a fellow pilgrim and you can just go and invite yourself to join them!

    Until tomorrow …
    Baca lagi

  • Santa Domingo de la Calzada (20.7/210.7)

    1 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A perfect day’s walk that went exactly to plan! A clear cool day with more luscious farmlands with a coffee stop after 5km, lunch after 15 and at our accommodation by 3pm.
    The farming activity is so impressive. The scale is mind- boggling. Day after day we walk through the farms and vineyards and they stretch as far as the eye can see. The farms look organised and neat and every bit if land is used or ploughed for next year. Harvesting season must be full on.
    There don’t seem to be farmhouses so we guess they all live in the villages and work the farms. Also guessing that the farms are owned by co-operatives or organisations but we will research more.
    Tomorrow we are having a tourist / rest day and spending 2 nights here at Hospederia Cistercience. A Cistercian retreat house.
    We spent the afternoon and evening walking around the old town, had a drink and dinner with a Pilgrim we met a week ago who is struggling a bit and then went to the mass which was the commencement of the 2 week celebrations of the feast days of Santa Domingo who took care of Pilgrims. Lots of singing and a full church. We had seen the procession go past while having dinner before mass.
    Looking forward to a relax day tomorrow!
    Baca lagi

  • Santa Domingo de la Calzada - rest day

    2 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A rejuvenating day spent in Santa Domingo de la Cazada. A late start with a coffee with Pilgrims walking through from the previous village and a bit of top up shopping while waiting for our washing. Then a slow paced tourist day including visits up the tower (see the video of the bells ringing at 12), Abbey of Saint Francis, the Cathedral of El Salvador and then the church, Emita de la Plaza (hermit of the square). The artwork and architecture are incredible and such a treat to have the time to appreciate it all. Some of the original city walls and cobbled streets are still in existence.
    The town is really a dedication to Saint Domingo whose calling was to serve Pilgrims, especially focussed on the engineered elements (roads, bridges). His most famous miracle involved a rooster (see photo for explanation) and as a result there is a rooster in the church that crowed while we were in the Cathedral (see video). These roosters are carefully looked after and are descendants of the original rooster.
    We had a lovely day of sightseeing, food and drink without being rushed. We ended the day with mass at the Cathedral, big crowds again (a novena said before each Mass until the real celebration to celebrate St Domingo day on 10th May) and then a meal at the Hospederia Cistercience where the nuns served us both breakfast and dinner), and catching up with some new pilgrims who were also having dinner.
    Baca lagi

  • Belorado (22.6km / 233.3km)

    3 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We left at Sunrise as a hot day was predicted and we had a lot of ground to cover. An absolutely gorgeous morning with the beautiful farmlands we’ve become accustomed to gave a spring to our step. We walked with a lovely Frenchman and reached our coffee stop (7km) in no time.
    They had a caravan at the entrance to the village and a garden area to sit.
    After breakfast we walked very close to the main road with trucks, cars and dust! On the Camino!! We passed through so many villages today, some less than 2km apart which made it seem shorter somehow.
    We pushed through to have a late lunch and left only 5km for the last stretch.
    The town of Belorado has many murals to liven up the town which seems to have many empty apartments?
    We were both happy that we did a relatively long day without too much trouble - the only thing is the “feet”!
    We tucked into the Pilgrim meal of the day chatting to a Dutch couple next to us and then hit bed!
    Baca lagi

  • Villafranca Montes de Oca (11.9km/245km)

    4 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    “A Smelling the Roses day”
    Having a private room, we were able to wake up at a leisurely time, knowing we only had a short walk today. We had breakfast in the town we were at before setting off at a gentle pace and throughout the day we did everything at half pace. We normally manage to pop into a church either before leaving or shortly thereafter to offer a prayer. More beautiful farmlands with the main road a little further away than yesterday so it did not interfere with our tranquil setting. We passed by Ermita de la Penna, which is a hermitage built into the cliffs. More little villages to pass through today. We had a cup of coffee at Villambistia with a beautiful setting overlooking the farmlands. We approached our village, passing another hermitage, to Villafranca Montes de Oca and booked ourselves into the beautiful Albergue de peregrinos San Antonio. It sits at the foot of a pass, with a climb beckoning us for the start of our walk tomorrow. We had a very lazy afternoon, planning for our coming days and chatting to other pilgrims before setting off to dinner for the pilgrim menu of the day at our Albergue which we shared with the Canadian Grandfather and Grandson who we first met in Pamplona, which feels like a lifetime ago.Baca lagi

  • Atapeurco (18.2km / 263.2km)

    5 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    A perfect sunrise to get us ready for a steep uphill climb after many days of gentle rolling hills. The climb wasn’t bad and we enjoyed the tree lined path through the forest. At the top of the hill there was a local who made our day. He had strong coffee and lovely fresh oranges. He was so friendly! He had painted lots of wooden stumps with birds , piano keyboard, chess board, etc. Jane spotted a painted bird that looked like a hoopoe. She asked him about it and he got really excited and pulled out his bird book. It turns out the Hoopoe migrates from South Africa to Spain. We also saw a pied kingfisher! Anyway a lovely unplanned coffee stop.
    The rest of the walk was uneventful although the landscape is becoming less green! Just before Atapuerco, in the caves outside of town, the remains of early humans have been discovered, some as old as 800,000 years.
    We arrived in Atapuerco, our village for the night. I think it is the original “1 horse town” and was half expecting to see John Wayne walking down the deserted main road toward me with his revolver! (A cowboy movie star for the younger readers).
    It’s a pity because it is a lovely little town that obviously survives on Camino Pilgrims and not much else. The church is Saint Martin and large but sadly locked.
    While we were sitting on the stair outside the church, hoping it would open after Siesta, a Canadian lady came to check too and we got talking. We mentioned a detour we are planning tomorrow (more on that tomorrow), she got really excited as she had planned the same detour (and even staying at the same hotel) and was looking to share a taxi - they say “the Camino provides”.
    Well, we have just returned from dinner and Wow! A fine dining experience! We had an outstanding 3 course meal and wine at Camino prices. It didn’t make sense in this tiny town but we believe that it is the restaurant that tour groups visit when doing sightseeing in the area. Lucky us!
    We joined an American couple, Robb and Susan and the Canadian lady we will share the taxi with tomorrow (Danielle). A lovely evening! Beunos Noches.
    Baca lagi

  • Burgos (Castanares) (12.9km / 276.1km)

    6 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Nothing like an uphill climb and chilly weather to wake up the body! The first part of the walk was slow over very rocky terrain but very peaceful as the sun rose behind us. There was a large cross at the top of the hill. From there we started the entry to Burgos, a long slow decent from the farmlands into industrial areas and past a small airport. Along the way we had a lovely coffee stop and met up with a few regulars. It’s always uplifting to see familiar faces.
    We ended our walk at Castanares so we could get a taxi to Santa Domingo de Silos, 62km away with Danielle, the Canadian lady we met the day before. More on Silos tomorrow …
    Baca lagi

  • Santo Domingo de Silos (detour)

    6 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our taxi collected us as planned at the small town before Burgos. It was not a cheap journey, so it was good to have Danielle to share the cost. The journey to Santo Domingo de Silos took about 40 minutes, through many small villages. Santo Domingo de Silos did not disappoint. There are shuttered windows, rustic stone walls, and plenty of cobbled lanes. The main attraction of the town is the Benedictine monastery around which the rest of the town is built. Complete with cloisters and plenty of stunning Romanesque architecture. The Monastery dates all the way back to the 7th-century. The monks of Silos live in the Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos to this day. Today, part of the Monastery has now been transformed into a museum, where you can learn all about the history of living in the Abbey during the Middle Ages.

    The best view in Santo Domingo de Silos can be found from the small hermitage which presides over the rest of the town. The small chapel is closed to the public, but we managed to spy through the keyhole to see the interior.

    One of the more unusual things to do in Santo Domingo de Silos is to enjoy the Gregorian Chants of the Silos Abbey Monks. The monks actually managed to make it into the British pop charts in the 1990s with recordings of their Chants. Today, the Divine Office is sung 6 times a day. I managed to go to three (Vespers, Compline and Lauds). Each were beautiful. The abbey itself is beautiful in its simplicity and the acoustics are very impressive.

    Between vespers and compline we managed a very delicious dinner of suckling roast lamb and of course a glass of wine. We sat next to a German tourist. When we mentioned we would have to get a taxi back to Burgos the next day, he very kindly offered to take us. What a win!!

    After Compline we were very happy to end our day and settled comfortably at our hotel.
    Baca lagi

  • Burgos city after Silos detour (283.2km)

    7 Mei 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After our lift “blessing” from Martin we walked along the river and then made our way to the Albergue Emaus. We dropped our bags off, went for the best tapas lunch and then visited the major Burgos tourist attractions of the Cathedral and castle. I know we have used words like incredible before but WOW! The 13th century Gothic cathedral is huge, has multiple chapels inside, cloisters and art of the highest quality. It was completely restored in the 90’s and early 2000’s and looks brand new. We would not do it justice trying to describe it. There was actually too much to take in on one visit.
    The castle ruins provided a view over the city and back along the Camino path we walked. Typically it was at the top of the hill which required a walk! Even our “day off” seems to clock up the steps.
    We returned to check in. The Albergue is linked to the local Parish of Iglesia de San José Obrero and is very community oriented and has a distinct purpose to provide rest. The accommodation is immaculate, quiet and provides a reflective space, quite different to the hustle of many others. We got special treatment as a married couple.
    We went to mass at the local Parish which had a lovely youth choir singing which was energising and a group of about 50 ladies had just completed a weekend retreat and were in full voice (video). It was so good to see a full church and do many young people. They invited the pilgrims up and gave us each a blessing.
    At 9 o’clock there was a group “get to know you session” which really helps to make new Camino friends that we will undoubtedly meet several times in the next few weeks.
    Marie-Noel, the lady running the Albergue was so welcoming. When she saw us at mass she arranged the blessing and invited us to join the community celebration. She held my hands in hers and her hands were just like mom’s (May) - so soft, warm and comforting. Thinking of you mom!
    Burgos actually marks the end of the first phase “physical” and we enter a new phase “mental” with less beautiful surroundings …. See picture below.
    Baca lagi