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Camino

April - June 2023
“May our eyes be opened to what is not seen” Read more
  • 72footprints
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  • 69days
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  • 19.0kkilometers
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  • Camino
    Day 1

    What is the Camino de Santiago?

    April 13, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is a renowned pilgrimage of medieval origin that sees pilgrims journey to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in the northwest of Spain.
    Legend has it that the remains of the Apostle St. James the Great were buried in the Cathedral and discovered by a shepherd in the 9th century. The city of Santiago is named after St. James: Santiago de Compostela means St. James of the Field of Stars.

    There is actually no singular starting point for the Camino de Santiago. There are many different routes to Santiago and in turn many starting points.

    The reason for the huge variety in starting points is that the original pilgrims would have commenced their Camino journeys from their own homes. So that’s why so many different Camino ways have emerged over the centuries.

    We will be walking The Camino Frances, also known as the French Way, which is the most famous and most popular of the Camino routes ever since the Middle Ages.

    This route is 800km long and takes about 5 weeks to walk. We have chosen to start the journey from St Jean Pied de Port in France but you also can start at any point along the route.    Read more

  • Camino
    1
    Day 3

    Lourdes - Spiritual preparation

    April 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After months of physical and mental preparation, today was a day of Spiritual Preparation while discovering Lourdes.
    At first, the scale of touristy memorabilia shops made me think it was going to be a tick box process.
    But once in the Sanctuary it was Peaceful, prayerful, incredibly welcoming and a Blessing to witness. The Lourdes sanctuary precinct exists because of the 18 Apparitions of our Lady to St Bernadette. The message of Lourdes is “through Mary to Jesus”.
    Our highlight was the water gesture ceremony, a private process led by a Sister determined to ensure our experience was beautiful, moving and meaningful. The water gesture is a spiritual cleansing / healing of water, from the same Spring St Bernadette was told to wash in. We attended a Gregorian Chant Mass, spent some time at the grotto, lit a candle for all those we are holding in our prayers, a wonderful walking tour, walking in the steps of St Bernadette, by one of the Sisters, who challenged us to question ourselves and reflect. We attended the Procession of the Holy Eucharist in the underground Basilica that can accommodate 20,000 people! We ended our day with the most beautiful candlelight procession, attended by 1000s, all reciting, in unity, the rosary in their own language. I had my Mum’s rosary with me and I held her in my prayers.    Read more

  • Camino
    1
    Day 5

    St Jean Pied de Port - Practice Rest Day

    April 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Practicing a rest day!
    Today was a serious practice day. Having rest days on the Camino revives the body and helps focus on “smelling the roses” and not just the destination. So we put in a big effort.
    When we first travelled together for 15 months in 1995, long before iPhones and cheap phone calls we used to write home every few weeks. This morning, Jane’s sister, Louise was reminiscing on those letters and that more than half the content was on the food we had eaten that day. We pretty much tried everything on offer. She begged us for a food day just to make it an even tougher day. So, here it is - a rest and food day. And, because it is a rest day we will let the pictures do most of the talking although some need a little explanation.
    In short, we spent the day in the beautiful town of St Jean Pied de Port (founded in the 12th century), the starting point of the Camino Frances. Welcoming, warm people who patiently listened to my broken French and answered me in perfect English, lovely food and daunting views of the Pyrenees mountains which we will tackle tomorrow! The town is filled with Pilgrims like us. We strolled along the ramparts of the old town walls. We sent off our excess Post Camino (PC) luggage to Santiago and ended the day with a Mass in the local church (beautiful 14th-century church of Notre Dame du Bout du Pont (Our Lady at the End of the Bridge), which is made of the local pink Arradoy stone and sits beside the gateway onto the bridge over the river). Mass ended with a Pilgrim blessing for the commencement of our Camino. The priest asked us all to say where we were from, Brazil, England, France, Switzerland, Australia, USA, Canada and Czech! His English was non existent so he called me (Ant) up to read the translated English blessing. He proceeded to issue instructions to me in French so I hope I didn’t exceed my authority!
    One of the pictures that might need explaining is the location where I did our clothes washing. The automated laundromat is outside, right next to the car wash! An interesting business model and I’m really glad it wasn’t raining.

    Ok Louise - the good bit …
    A traditional French buffet breakfast (had to try the normal and chocolate croissant), a ham and cheese baguette for lunch along the river finished off with a traditional cherry Basque gateau (Perhaps there was the odd almond or citrus macaroon in between?? )
    After a traditional Basque dinner and local red wine last night (veal stew and chicken) we had a beautiful fresh trout tonight from the local river and tried a different bottle of red. Love the 500ml bottles. Dessert the waitress asked? Why not? Jane had a vanilla basque gateau and I had fresh pear. Honestly there was pear buried under the ice cream and cream!
    Our conclusion - we are really, really good at food and rest! Really excited to tackle the big climb tomorrow.    Read more

  • Camino
    111113
    Day 6

    Orisson (7.5km)

    April 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We’re finally actually walking. A lovely first day. Beautiful weather gave stunning views of the Pyrenees during our walk. A short but steep walk to begin with climbing 700m. Smashed it!
    In the evening all the pilgrims (60 ish) ate together at long tables with a shared meal. We each gave a brief intro and the reason we were on the Camino. Many interesting people and stories from many different countries.Read more

  • Camino
    1
    Day 7

    Roncesvalles (16.8km / 24.3km)

    April 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We started off with stunning conditions. The sunrise over the Pyrenees was breathtaking. We had a communal breakfast - very simple but nice to be seated with everyone. Coffee was served in a soup bowl! Had lovely Face Time calls with Theresa and Shannon and then - We rounded a corner and the wind hit us and it pretty much stayed with us the whole day. Gusts of gale force winds , piercingly cold. A head wind while climbing, climbing, climbing. The scenery did a good job at distracting the difficult conditions. A good break at a van who had parked out of the wind, and served delicious and much needed coffee. We continued to climb. We crossed over a cow grid and entered Spain just like that. More climbing and a bit of a relief while walking through a muddy forest. We found a good spot to eat our baguettes which we ordered at last nights accommodation. We eventually caught sight of the Albergue (Historical Pilgrim Hospital) which was our destination, far down below. So now for the climb down, down, down. The Pilgrim Hostel is huge and sleeps hundreds. We are in a bunk room of 4. A much needed beer or two, and reminiscing on the difficult day with other pilgrims before another communal dinner followed by Mass. An unexpected surprise after mass. The priest gave a Pilgrim Blessing and then invited us to stay for a tour of the church. He enthusiastically told us about the history of the church in 3 languages and then took us down to the crypt where he orchestrated an impromptu “Amazing Grace”. Time for these weary legs to head off to bed!Read more

  • Camino
    21
    Day 8

    Lintzoain (13.4km/37.7k)

    April 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We woke up to the most gentle group “alarm”, a Gregorian chant softly playing through the loudspeakers, followed by a less gentle turning on of the lights and then a healthy baritone walking the corridors singing us awake and making sure we all left by 7am! Then the now normal process of getting dressed, packing backpacks, eating our communal breakfast, boots on and get on our way.
    This morning was quite fresh walking along near the river through the forests. We walked in the most peaceful environment of forests, shaded country lanes between farms and through 3 tiny villages. Just as we had imagined the Camino.
    We had decided before the start of the Camino to start slowly and build up so today was a bit if a recovery day with a slow paced “stroll” to Lintzoain, a tiny village that doesn’t have a shop or restaurant or ….
    The highlight of the day was chatting to the other pilgrims before and during dinner. Somehow between the 9 of us I think we had an inclusive conversation in Spanish, French and English. There were the 2 of us, 2 ladies from Barcelona, 2 ladies from France, a couple from America and a lady from Korea. Add in the crazy Spanish hostess who treated us to a local meal of potato soup, pork and pasta accompanied with red wine followed by a local “Crème brûlée” type dessert topped off with a Pacharan liqueur from the local Navarra region. Now off to bed for an early start tomorrow! Beunos Noches.    Read more

  • Camino
    11
    Day 9

    Trinidad de Arre (24.3km / 62km)

    April 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We were too tired to post last night! Lets just say the day did not go according to plan and our humility and patience were tested.
    Communal breakfast with the group was lovely! The walk was beautiful as the pictures will show.
    But the story of the day was that things don’t always go to plan but “the Camino provides” as we have heard so often!
    We really wanted to stay at the the Albergue run by the Sacred Heart Sisters in Zabaldika so we booked the night before and set off early for our 21km walk. The first part included a really steep decline on difficult rocky surface into Zubiri. We revived ourselves with a coffee and maybe shared a chocolate croissant. Our planned lunch place was closed so we walked another 4km to Zuriain. Then the last stretch to the Albergue. When we got there the person in front of us got the last bed. I showed my text confirmation but they said they don’t take reservations. This was the first night they had been full and were surprised themselves. Disappointed and tired we set off for another hour to the next town, Trinidad de Arre, staying in a municipal hostel in a room with 20 others. We went to mass and had a quick dinner and then to bed.
    A sister from the convent came to the hostel with other pilgrims and asked for us, checking that we had found a bed and apologised that they were full. She was lovely and gave us tips on other “Religious” Albergues to stay at in the coming days.
    We will reflect on the day in time but for now it is a reminder that the best made plans don’t always work out and that is ok! We’re off to Pamplona today, a short walk and play tourist.    Read more

  • Camino
    Day 10

    Pamplona (4.6km / 66.6km)

    April 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a more gentle wake up today if that is possible filled with a room of 20 bunks. I had a much better sleep than anticipated, only one gentle snorer. We had a short walk today into Pamplona and it was raining, so we elected to do a load of washing while we had breakfast, at a local laundromat. We made good use of our rain gear while we took the short walk into Pamplona. We were met with ancient city walls and medieval building which are so impressive. We checked into our municipal Albergue - Jesus y Maria, which is right next door to the impressive Cathedral. The Albergue is huge - has 2 floors and sleeps over 100 - our dorm has 25. Our neighbours, 1m away are a Canadian Grandfather and his grandson.
    It was good to catch up with pilgrims from previous nights and swap notes. We wondered the old city of Pamplona, soaking up the vibe. The main square is impressive and loved by the locals. After a short break we returned for dinner, sampling the pinchos (tapas type counter food) and shared a paella. The city comes alive and was bursting with people (mostly locals). We’ve had enough to eat but just can’t go to bed before sampling a local Churro for Theresa! But it was closed 😞! Maybe tomorrow    Read more

  • Camino
    2
    312
    Day 11

    Zariquiegui (10.9km 77.5km)

    April 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After a great tourist day in Pamplona we had a breakfast on the main square with a couple of other French Pilgrims ending their Camino as they do it in segments over a few years with their leave. Then went to a traditional Latin mass in the Cathedral. We set off at mid-day for the small town walking through beautiful farm land. I think Jane wanted some time alone as she sent me off to buy some lunch in a small village while she walked on. I caught up about an hour later just before our destination in San Andres Albergue in Zariquiegui! The small Albergue had a communal meal which is one of the highlights of the Camino highlights. Tonight we sat with Canadians and French (a young couple who live in Toulouse, France. They left their home town on foot and will walk all the way to Santiago and then onto Fatima, and then will reverse the whole trip back home. They hope to take 60 days!)
    The Camino is very busy this year and there is a bit of a rush to get to the next accommodation as they are filling fast. We are booking more than we would like and therefore walking a bit less too but it is working for us rather than being so focussed on getting to the next town. Forcing some patience onto me maybe …
    Beunos Noches 💤    Read more

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