• Janette and John

Kon’nichiwa Nihon

JAPAN BY RAIL with Wendy Wu
This is the ultimate top-toe tour of Japan covering three islands in one trip – Kyushu, Honshu and Hokkaido whilst travelling on the bullet train! From rural villages to bustling cities, from coastlines to alpine.
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  • Trip start
    May 8, 2024

    A day of travel

    March 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    After counting down for weeks, the day for departure has finally arrived.

    We elected to leave a bit earlier than the tour time so that we could travel in daytime and have a free day tomorrow before the welcome dinner tomorrow evening.

    4.00am - alarm rings.
    4.30am - picked up by Trish and Paul's daughter-in-law, Nikki.
    5.10am - arrive Sydney Airport, check in and head for Qantas lounge for brekky.
    8.30am - took off for Tokyo.
    6.30pm - arrived Tokyo, cleared customs and headed for the domestic terminal.
    6.30pm - put watches back one hour.
    7.30pm - boarded plane to Fukuoka.
    9.30pm - arrived Fukuoka, met by Wendy Wu guide and taken to hotel.
    10.30pm - bed!!!

    That was a l o n g day! Just as well we were in premium economy for the Sydney to Tokyo leg - HEAPS of room!
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  • Our first temple-Joten Ji

    May 9, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Breakfasted after a great sleep and worked out what to do today.

    There is a welcome dinner tonight to meet the rest of our tour group. We did meet a few of them in the hotel lobby as we left to go for a look around Fukuoka.

    We walked a couple of blocks to the railway station as it had been suggested we check out the huge shopping centre there.

    Huge is an understatement! - it is Harvey Norman on steroids.

    Fukuoka is a government and university town. On checking the tourist map, we decided there were a couple of parks with temples that were in 'easy' walking distance.

    As it was now approaching lunchtime, we looked for somewhere to eat on the way. I am embarrassed to say that we had McDonalds and really enjoyed it.

    The parks we were seeking are near the Mikasagawa River which we found. Trish then asked a very obliging young couple for further directions and we set off again. We found the temples and parkland - well worth the effort of getting to them.

    Met as a group at 7.30pm, met our tour guide, Inage, and walked to the Crown Plaza Hotel for our welcome dinner - a very varied and really nice buffet.
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  • Nagasaki - a lesson still not learned.

    May 10, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Had to assemble in the hotel foyer at 7.50 in order to walk to the railway station to catch the trains to Nagasaki. We think our tour manager / guide, Inage (Nugget), was testing our punctuality by leaving a lot of time (1 hour) to get to the station ten minutes away.

    We thought today would be quite confronting - visiting the site of the dropping of the second atomic bomb…

    We took two trains - an 'ordinary' train and then changed to a bullet train. A coach was waiting to take us to the Peace Park.

    The Peace Park focusses on exactly that, peace. From the giant peace statue on, everything is aimed at promoting peace and goodwill. The peace statue is very symbolic.

    The right hand pointing to the sky reminds us of the danger of nuclear weapons, while the extended left hand symbolizes eternal peace. The statue's face also embodies peace, while its closed eyes represent a prayer for the repose of the victims' souls.

    His folded right leg is in meditation while the extended left leg is rooted to the ground, asking us to stand up and help the world. Take note of serene seated Buddha statues in Japan, and you will see where this posture came from.

    The peace bell has offerings of bottled water at its base. This is in response to the many stories told by survivors of how they had raging thirsts and there was no uncontaminated water.

    The tree of life statue shows how a tree can provide a wooden bowl so people can share water and food.

    The Fountain of Peace signifies the need for water. Its sprays form the shape of wings signifying a dove or a crane. Nagasaki harbour is named after the crane because of its shape.

    The park leads on to ground zero or, as it's called here, the hypocentre. This is the point directly below where the bomb exploded.

    It is marked by a column, in front of which is a stone chamber. This contains a register with the names of everyone who died in the bombing and have died as a result since. It is updated every August 9th.

    Then it was on to the museum…
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  • Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

    May 10, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    On arrival at the museum, Inage purchased our tickets. He was very emotional and explained that he wouldn't be going in with us - it is too raw for him.

    All Japanese schoolchildren are taught this history and are encouraged to visit the Peace Parks and Museums to learn why this should never be allowed to happen again.

    And yes - it was very confronting.
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  • Glover Park

    May 10, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Glover Garden is a park in Nagasaki, Japan, built for Thomas Blake Glover, a Scottish merchant who contributed to the modernization of Japan in shipbuilding, coal mining, and other fields. In it stands the Glover Residence, the oldest Western-style house surviving in Japan and Nagasaki's foremost tourist attraction.

    It is located on the Minamiyamate hillside overlooking Nagasaki harbor. It was built by Hidenoshin Koyama of Amakusa island and completed in 1863. It has been designated as an Important Cultural Asset.

    As the house and its surroundings are reminiscent of Puccini's opera, it is also known as the "Madame Butterfly House”. Statues of Puccini and diva Miura Tamaki, famed for her role as Cio-Cio-san, stand in the park near the house.

    This house was also the venue of Glover's meetings with rebel samurai, particularly from the Chōshū and Satsuma domains.

    Glover Garden is a lovely hillside landscaped garden and open-air museum with a breathtaking view overlooking Nagasaki harbor. The green and lush gardens sit on top of the Minami-Yamate hill and houses the former homes of the European tradesmen and their families who lived in Nagasaki during the city’s Meiji period in the second half of the 19th century. There are lovely views from here over the harbour.

    We took two trains back to Nagasaki. As we wouldn't arrive until 8.00pm, we each received a bento box to eat on the train. They are crammed full of delicious food - another great experience!
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  • Miyajima Island

    May 11, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Caught the 9.30 bullet train to Hiroshima. Taken by coach to a hotel for lunch - a magnificent Japanese banquet. After lunch, back on the coach and down to the ferry terminal to catch the ferry to Miyajima.

    Miyajima is a small island just outside Hiroshima.

    It is officially called Itsukushima but is commonly called Miyajima meaning Shrine Island. Itsukushima Shrine (a Shinto Shrine), a giant torii gate, seems to float on water at high tide.

    There was a traditional Shinto wedding being celebrated as we walked around.

    Momiji Manju, a small, maple leaf shaped cake is a local speciality on the island. One type has a red bean jam centre and the other a chocolate centre. This tour group likes to include lots of different experiences - today we made some of these cakes in a kitchen above a shop.

    There are 'wild' deer on the island that are really tame. They walk right up to you and mingle with the crowds. Tourists are warned to keep an eye on their belongings - especially tickets and souvenirs - as the deer might eat them.

    Arrived back in Hiroshima about 5.30 and checked in to the Grand Prince Hotel. This hotel hosted the 2023 G7 Summit.

    Buffet dinner was in the restaurant on the 23rd floor at 7pm.

    Tomorrow - Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum.
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  • Shukkeien Garden, Hiroshima.

    May 12, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Shukkeien Garden was begun in 1620. Its name literally means shrink-scenery garden which expresses the idea of collecting and miniaturising many scenic views.

    In the centre is Takuei Pond containing more than ten islets, large and small. Around its circumference, mountains, valleys, bridges, tea cottages and arbors are skilfully arranged, all connected by a path.

    In 1945 the garden was destroyed by the atomic bomb. It has been fully restored.

    A 200 year old ginkgo tree with a height of 21m and a trunk circumference of 3.50m was tilted by the blast. One-third of the trunk is keloid-like due to the atomic bombing, but buds are growing out of it.

    Seeds from this tree have been collected and distributed worldwide…
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  • Hiroshima Peace Park.

    May 12, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Hiroshima Peace Park is close to the hypocentre of the first atomic bomb.

    The Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbaku Dome) was the only structure left standing in the area where the first atomic bomb exploded on August 6th 1945. It has been preserved in the same state since. It was the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotional Hall.

    Not only is it a stark and powerful symbol of the most destructive force ever created by humankind; it also expresses the hope for world peace and the ultimate elimination of all nuclear weapons.

    The Children's Peace Monument is a monument for peace to commemorate Sadako Sasaki and the thousands of child victims of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. Sadako Sasaki, a young girl, died of leukemia caused by radiation.

    Designed by native artists Kazuo Kikuchi and Kiyoshi Ikebe, the monument was built using money derived from a fund-raising campaign by Japanese school children, including Sadako Sasaki's classmates, with the main statue entitled "Atomic Bomb Children". The statue was unveiled on 5 May 1958, the Japanese Children's Day holiday.

    Sadako Sasaki is immortalized at the top of the statue, where she holds a wire crane above her head.

    Shortly before she passed, she had a vision to create a thousand cranes. Japanese tradition says that if one creates a thousand cranes, they are granted one wish. Sadako's wish was to have a world without nuclear weapons.

    Thousands of origami cranes from all over the world are offered around the monument. They serve as a sign that the children who make them and those who visit the statue desire a world without nuclear war.

    By the end of August 1955, Sadako had achieved her 1000-crane goal and continued to fold more cranes. Unfortunately, her wish was not granted and she died of the leukemia on October 25, 1955. Her main cause of death was from the radiation poisoning from the atomic bomb 'Little Boy'.

    There is an eternal flame - 'The flame of anti-nuclear desire' will continue to burn until the abolition of nuclear weapons.

    I fear it may burn for some time yet…

    There is a stone chamber containing a register of all the people who died in the bombing or since as a result of the bombing - >330,000…

    It is updated every August 6th.
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  • Orizuru Tower

    May 12, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Okonomiyaki for lunch.

    It's a Japanese savoury pancake, layered with noodles, egg, shrimps,pork,cabbage - Japanese comfort food.

    Then it was on to Orizuru Tower. From 13 floors up there are magnificent views of Hiroshima.

    On the 12th floor we had an origami lesson making paper Cranes (the bird variety). It's more difficult than it first appears.

    Back to the hotel by 3.45 and a bit of a rest. Met Trish and Paul at the bar for pre dinner drinks. Buffet dinner again - great selection.

    Tomorrow we check out and head for Himeji then on to Osaka.
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  • Himeji Castle

    May 13, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Another bullet train this morning - this time to Himeji - 250kms in 55 minutes!

    At Himeji there is Himeji Castle - it is known as 'White Heron Castle' for its soaring keep and brilliant white plaster walls. The main keep was built in 1601. The only stone structures are its foundations - the castle's main buildings are made mostly of wood, earth and plaster.

    It was designed for defence in warfare, not for living in. The feudal Lord lived in a palace in the castle forecourt. To defend the castle, access for attackers was made as difficult as possible. One of the ways this was done was to make the internal stairs of the tower increasingly steep and difficult to climb.

    We were allowed to go into the tower, but…

    Inage, our tour leader, stressed how increasingly difficult the ascent would be and to think about whether or not to attempt it once at the bottom of the tower. To add to the degree of difficulty, shoes had to be removed, carried in a plastic bag and we then had to complete the climb in socks.

    There is no furniture in the tower. It was a defensive structure only. Each floor is bare except for the top floor which has a shrine.

    It was tough but worth doing.

    Lunch was a traditional Japanese meal at a restaurant across the road - yet another great experience!

    After lunch - the Koko-En gardens…
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  • Umeda Sky Building, Osaka.

    May 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The Umeda Sky Building is one of the tallest buildings in Osaka.

    It is 173 metres tall and consists of two towers connected by the Floating Garden Observatory at the top.

    Today's first experience involved taking a lift to the 35th floor. The lift goes up inside a 'cage' on the outside between the two towers. We then had to take an escalator to the top - across from one tower to the other!

    The views of Osaka from the top are amazing.
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  • Todaiji Temple

    May 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Lunch was in Nara. It was the local version of Okonomiyaki. Here they mix all the ingredients together first rather than add them in layers. It was delicious and many people said they will be trying to make it back in Oz.

    Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 794.

    The Todaiji Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the Seven Great Temples of Japan. Also, it is the home of the world's largest bronze statue, Daibutsu (giant Buddha).

    The Buddha is depicted with his right arm outstretched and palm out - a gesture that says “don't be afraid”. His left hand is palm faces up to grant a wish…

    It is certainly an awesome sight.

    Outside the temple is parkland (Nara Park) in which there are wild Sika deer. Rice crackers are available to buy to feed to the deer. These are a healthy food for them. The deer will bow when you feed them.

    The jury's out on why they bow. One opinion is that it's an aggressive gesture. The other is that it's a learnt behaviour because they know it often leads to food. I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt because I think if it was aggression we would hear of people being hurt and see warnings around the park…
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  • Ink stick making and calligraphy.

    May 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Yet another new experience - ink stick making and calligraphy using Japanese characters.

    On arrival we sat with a piece of paper, ink and a brush. Each person's name was written on their paper in Japanese characters. We then had to practice copying it.

    We were given a wooden box that would eventually contain our own ink stick. Next we had to write our name on the top of the box.

    Each person went forward in turn and shaped their own ink stick in their fist. This was then placed in their box with instructions to not open it for three months until it has dried, shrunk and is hard. Opening before this will cause it to crack.
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  • Osaka to Kyoto

    May 15, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A one and a half hour coach ride to Kyoto this morning. Inage found a novel way to teach us to say the numbers one to ten:-
    1-Itchy 2-Knee 3-Sun 4-She 5-Go
    6-Rock 7-Hitch 8-Hutch 9-Queue 10-Jule

    Kyoto was the capital of Japan from 794 to 1868, therefore it is sometimes called the thousand year capital.

    On arrival in Kyoto we travelled to the Arashiyama bamboo forest. We had plenty of time to walk around before heading for the coach and lunch.

    Lunch was a traditional Japanese lunch at Shozan Resort.
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  • Zen meditation and tea ceremony.

    May 15, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After lunch it was off to a restored Japanese wooden townhouse for zen meditation. A buddhist monk explained the buddhist philosophy and the principles of meditation. We then had a go…

    Kyoto is the tea ceremony centre of the world. The tea ceremony is an age-old ritual in Japan. We experienced one, with the ritual being explained step by step.

    We received a bowl of tea each and then two volunteers were called for to prepare tea. Janette was the first.

    Next, on to Kiyomizu-dera. This is one of the most celebrated temples in Japan. Kiyomizu-dera literally translates to Pure Water Temple and was founded on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in 780.

    The temple is famous for its wooden stage that juts out 13 metres above the hillside.

    There are three 'streams' of water that are said to grant a wish if drunk from:-
    The left one - pass exams.
    The middle one - meet a girlfriend /boyfriend.
    The right one - longevity.

    You can only drink from one so choose carefully.

    There was quite a queue, so I went thirsty.

    Dinner tonight was in a restaurant a few minutes walk from our hotel - roast chicken served to the table, then buffet style.
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  • Ryoanji Temple.

    May 16, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    First today - Ryonaji Temple.

    Ryoanji Temple is a Zen Temple renowned for its garden.

    It features a dry landscape with large rocks and smooth pebbles.

    It is designed as a place of meditation.

    There are fifteen stones. The stones are placed so that the entire composition cannot be seen from from any one place on the veranda.

    There is a stone wash-basin with the inscription “I learn only to be contented. He who learns to be contented is spiritually rich. The one who does not learn to be contented is spiritually poor even if he is materially rich”. This is an important concept in the Zen spirit.

    From the dry garden the path goes around a pond, Kyoyochi Pond.
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  • Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion).

    May 16, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion) is a Buddhist temple and is an excellent example of Japanese garden design.

    The thatched, pyramidal roofs of each tier are layered in shingles, and the topmost two tiers are covered in the gold leaf that the Kinkakuji Temple name is derived from.

    The original structure of the Golden Pavilion was burned down in 1950 but rebuilt in 1955 based on a detailed reconstruction initiative.

    Lunch today was in a traditional Japanese restaurant in the Gion area. We sat on the floor with our feet in a sunken area.

    There was time for a wander round the shops before attending a fan painting workshop. We each had a plain, paper fan, paints and brushes and could paint whatever we wanted on the fan. I don't think any of us will be able to give up our day jobs.

    Tonight our hotel is quite close to a railway station, one stop out from Kyoto. Dinner tonight was in a traditional Japanese restaurant in Kyoto near the main station.

    We went by train. Not just any train but an 'ordinary' commuter train jam packed with local commuters. After dinner, we returned to the hotel the same way.
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  • Marvelling at the marbling.

    May 16, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    On the way to lunch today in Ishibashicho, Kyoto, we walked through shopping arcades. After lunch we had a little free time to browse the shops.

    Many of our meals have included Waghu beef. Waghu merely means Japanese Beef. There are four types of Wagyu in Japan: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Shorthorn, and Japanese Polled.

    There are brands of Waghu that are well known in Japan, eg Kobe, Sendai and Hide.

    It was interesting to see the cuts and prices in shop and restaurant windows eg 100gm for ¥3,000 is $300 per kg.
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  • Kyoto to Kanazawa.

    May 17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It turns out that last night's commuter train ride was good practice for this morning. This was another time where our main suitcases would go on ahead and we would just have one hand luggage each with enough for one night.

    This morning we had to catch a train at Kyoto station and to get there we would, once again, catch the commuter train at 8.31am. It would be busier than last night and we might not all get on. Plan B was for anyone not able to board to wait for the next train and we would meet up at the ticket exit at Kyoto station.

    Plan B wasn't needed - we all boarded.

    From Kyoto we caught an express to Tsuruga and then changed to a bullet train for the rest of the journey to Kanazawa. A coach was waiting to take us on today's siteseeing.

    As it was only about 11.30am, we headed off to see Kenrokuen garden.
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  • Kenrokuen.

    May 17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Kenrokuen is one of Japan's 'Three Great Gardens'. It dates back to the early 17th century and is known for its stunning beauty in all seasons.

    It was previously the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, constructed by the Maeda family over a period of almost 200 years.

    As our tour leader, Inage, explained - with Japanese gardens, one might not see a lot on entering but will see interesting areas while walking around.
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  • Nomura Samurai House.

    May 17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    On the way out of Kenrokuen we had an ice cream cone with gold leaf and hoped it wouldn't spoil lunch. Lunch was again traditional Japanese - lovely!

    Nomura Samurai House is the only samurai residence open to the public in this area. It shows a typical samurai residence.

    Samurai were the hereditary military nobility and officer caste of medieval and early modern Japan from the late 12th century until their abolition in the late 1870s during the Meiji era. They were the well-paid retainers of the daimyo, the great feudal landholders. They had high prestige and special privileges.

    The house is minimal to say the least. Apparently this is very Japanese, even today.
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  • Kutani Pottery.

    May 17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Next stop, the Kutani Pottery where they produce handmade porcelain. It has been a family pottery for many generations.

    Every piece is totally hand made, takes four months to produce and it is exquisite.

    Their porcelain is priced to reflect that manufacturing process.

    Walked to another hotel for dinner, a “western style” fixed menu. It was excellent. Four courses, nice crockery, silver cutlery and great service - we could have been in a fine hotel anywhere.
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