Shimo-yamatedōri

We were lazy today … only 13,003 steps! Of course, that’s in comparison to yesterday’s 33,294 steps in Kyoto.

Today’s wanderings in Kobe began early-ish. We were off the ship around 8:00a.

First up was a traditional landscape garden — Sorakuen — which dates back to the early 20th century. It is on the grounds of the residence of a former mayor of Kobe City. There is a central pond … around which are meandering paths, stepping stones, stone bridges, streams and waterfalls. Nooks and crannies afford privacy and zen-like places for meditation. There is a tea house, too … but it was closed today.

To get to the park, we walked about 15-20 minutes from the Naka Pier. The first part of our route was familiar from yesterday. Once we passed the Minato-Motomachi Station, we were in new territory, walking mostly uphill. We arrived a few minutes before the 9:00a opening of the garden to find only one other person waiting at the stately front gate. Original to the property, the gate hides the wondrous, lush green grounds from curious eyes … until it is flung open precisely at the designated time.

We headed up the main path to the European-style stable and the Hassam House … both designated as Important Cultural Property. The stable dates back to 1910 and is the only other structure original to the property … the rest having been destroyed during WWII. The East-West fusion style Hassam House, which was built around 1902, was the home of an Anglo-Indian trader. It was moved here after the house was donated to the city.

After checking out the buildings, we went for a stroll along the paths surrounding the pond. Pine and camphor trees, maples, and azaleas are found in this part of the grounds. Alas, we missed the last of the azaleas that bloomed in late May-early June. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the nooks and crannies, stepping off the main path to see what was hidden at the end of some of the side spurs. As described in the brochure, we found the garden to be “a secluded oasis … in the middle of the city … unchanged for over a century.”

Next, we were going to go to the Nunobiki Waterfall … and the ropeway by the same name. However, when we saw a photo of the Ikuta Shrine on the map, we jiggled our plans.

The shrine, located in the bustling Sannomiya District of Kobe, is thought to be one of the oldest in Japan … founded by Empress Jingu in the early 3rd century. It is worshipped as the guardian of health. The people of Kobe see the shrine as a symbol of resurrection since it has survived battles, floods, WWII air raids, and the Great Hanshin Earthquake.

The part of the shrine that most interested me was the passage built out of a series of bright orange torii gates. That we were able to get photos of the this very photogenic passage sans-people was great good luck.

As we wandered the shrine compound, we saw several young couples with babies. They had come to have the Shinto-version of the baptism ceremony performed. A couple of youngsters in traditional kimonos charmed us as well. But it was the wedding ceremony being performed in the main hall that was a real highlight. We did not want the crash the wedding, so we watched the ritual from the outside terrace … and later watched the happy couple come down a red carpet laid down just for them … escorted by their families.

After our visit to the shrine, it was time to get a bite to eat. Wagyu is the term for Japanese beef. The much sought-after Kobe beef is a kind of wagyu, and is some of the most expensive beef found anywhere in the world. All that to say that Mui wanted to have Kobe beef for lunch today. After all, when in Kobe …!!!

Long story short, after looking high and low, we eventually found a highly-rated restaurant on Ikuta Street that could seat us within our “the ship leaves at 3:00p” time frame. The chef at this teppanyaki restaurant accommodated us before the place was actually open and we were the only ones there for about 30 minutes before patrons with reservations started streaming in.

It was here that we learned that there are two kinds of Kobe beef — the “regular” … exported outside the country, and the “premium” … only available within Japan. Since I am not much of a meat eater, Mui ordered the 180g cut to share with me. Our lunch was far from inexpensive, but I have to say it was worth every penny. Mui looked to be in “beef heaven.” And, even well-done at my request, my small portion was incredibly melt-in-your-mouth soft.

For a sweet treat after lunch, we went to Bocksun … described as “an artistic confectionary.” After perusing the menu, we ordered a plate of mini-cakes, including strawberry shortcake, tiramisu, creme brûlée, and two others … plus a pot of tea to share. The perfect wrap up to our meal in Kobe.

Since it was on the way to the port, we decided to walk back to Insignia by way of Nankinmachi … aka Chinatown. I have to admit that we were disappointed. The narrow street, lined on both sides with food stalls, was so crowded that we couldn’t really see much of anything. Good thing we didn’t go there for lunch. The lines were incredibly long … we would have left without getting a bite.

A quick detour for the quintessential “big letters” photo op, and we were back at the terminal shortly after 2:00p.Read more