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- Dia 19
- terça-feira, 21 de janeiro de 2025 20:31
- ⛅ 82 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean1°49’52” S 41°6’59” W
Four days at sea

Recap of our four sea days between Santarém and Salvador. It gives you an idea of the scale of Brazil when it takes four days to get from one city to another. And we’re still three days from Rio!
There was a “cooking demonstration” on Monday morning that we decided to attend. Turns out it was more of a comedy presentation as it was a competition between cruise director Carson and general manager Ludmila, with head chef Farid officiating. We didn’t learn much, but it was a fun diversion and the boys laughed a bunch, mostly at Carson, who freely admitted to not having any idea what he was doing. Monday brought us the first real rain we’ve seen so far. The boys and I went out late in the afternoon for some swimming (PE!) and saw that the rain was coming down pretty good. Not torrential, but more than the on-and-off showers we’d experienced. Given that it was still warm this did not deter us and we got in some pool time.
On Wednesday there was brunch in the Grand Dining Room. It was a big production with multiple tables loaded with food. Some of the cakes and fruit decorations were very impressive. Before dinner we attended the “Sing Out Loud” performance, which was a choir of passengers singing songs that they’d been practicing on the cruise. It was fun, and I’m impressed with anyone who will get up and sing in a public setting. It’s clear that the crew try to provide some different activities on these stretches of multiple sea days to help break up the monotony.
On Thursday the crew put together a "country fair," where they set up various booths on the pool deck with games. Do well, or even just participate, and you got raffle tickets. DJ won a prize which turned out to be... a bottle of wine. Two minors on the ship and one wins a bottle of wine. CD Carson swapped it out for a tote bag with some golf goodies.
We’re getting in a lot of ping pong as part of our physical activity. The table is in about the best place it can be – back in a corner of the pool deck where it is sheltered on three sides. But the wind still gets in there and is definitely a factor in play. The boys hadn’t played a lot before but have improved very quickly.
Tomorrow is Salvador, where we originally did not have any plans. But after a bit more reading we decided we did want to see the city, so we used some of our shipboard credit to book an excursion. It’s supposed to include a fair bit of walking, which will be welcome.Leia mais
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- Dia 22
- sexta-feira, 24 de janeiro de 2025 11:52
- ⛅ 84 °F
- Altitude: 203 pés
BrasilHistoric Centre (Salvador)12°58’23” S 38°30’30” W
Salvador (Bahia)

We originally had no plans for Salvador, or more properly our plans consisted of simply walking to the nearby marketplace and checking that out. However, after reading more about the city and especially its old town, we decided to book a basic highlights tour that would get us around the city.
Dawn was breaking as we approached the city ahead of our 7:00 AM docking time. The Brazilian Navy was conducting some sort of exercise and a few ships were steaming around nearby. We rousted the boys out of bed a little bit early so that we could have breakfast before our 8:45 rally time for the tour. We had about 30 people on our bus, and there was another on the same tour with probably an equal number. We set out at 9:00 for the Santo Antônio da Barra Fort and Barra Lighthouse.
We had a quick stop at the fort and lighthouse, then it was on to the old town. On the way we passed through a wide variety of neighborhoods, with housing ranging from extremely basic to opulent high rises. Once near the old town we got out and walked, getting a great view from the heights and then exploring a couple of churches. The best part was probably walking down a windy cobblestone road and seeing the locals going about their business.
The bus stopped at the port to let off folks who did not want to visit the Mercado Modelo. We did want to see the market, so we stayed on. We hoped to find some cold drinks at the market as it was hot and humid and the boys were pretty worn out. We failed in that respect, however, so we simply walked back to the ship for a quick lunch. Since Liz and I were still interested in the market we left the boys on the ship and walked back to explore. It was worth it as we made a purchase for someone back home.
We were back on the ship about an hour before the 3:30 all-aboard for a welcome shower, some puzzle-doing, and some ping pong.Leia mais
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- Dia 24
- domingo, 26 de janeiro de 2025 06:26
- 🌬 79 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean21°17’58” S 40°13’30” W
First segment wrapping up

For the passengers on board for the Miami-to-Rio segment it’s wind-down time. We overnight in Rio on Sunday and they’ll be leaving us on Monday. Saturday night we attended a singing “competition” show in the Insignia Lounge. The show was entertaining, but the real highlight came at the end when CD Carson brought a bunch of crew and staff up so that the audience could show their appreciation. Our school time on this day brought a couple of examples of just how supportive the staff have been: Liz and Thomas were working in the open area on deck 4, and both GM Ludmila and the ATW concierge stopped by to say hello and offer their help with anything we needed. It really makes you feel supported.Leia mais
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- Dia 24
- domingo, 26 de janeiro de 2025 16:21
- Altitude: 69 pés
BrasilRio de Janeiro Botanical Garden22°58’15” S 43°13’29” W
Rio day 1

A nice slow cruise into the mouth of Guanabara Bay gave us excellent looks at the city of Rio de Janeiro and the surrounding hills. It was hot and humid, and a haze hung in the air, so not the clearest views of Christ the Redeemer, but still a wonderful entrance into the city. We took it all in from decks 9, 10, and 11, then grabbed a quick lunch as we wanted to be among the first off the ship. We accomplished that and grabbed an Uber to take us to the Botanical Gardens. We were there by 1:35; not bad considering we docked at 1:00. We’d read that only cash was accepted, but that turned out to not be the case. Several English-speaking employees were very helpful, and we got tickets and into the gardens in minutes.
It was hot, but there was a breeze and the gardens offered plenty of shade. Not having a map, we decided to walk around the perimeter first. The setting is spectacular: right up at the base of Corcovado, with jungle all around. While we enjoyed seeing all the plant life, the highlights were the fauna. We saw a common marmoset and a whole group of black capuchin monkeys. The monkeys were a hit: walking around on two legs, jumping from tree to tree, nursing their babies. I was happy to wind up with no fewer than five life birds: Rusty-margined Guan, Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail, Red-shouldered Macaw, Golden-capped Parakeet, and Channel-billed Toucan.
We hit the café located near the garden exit, mainly out of convenience, but it turned out to have good food. Liz and I shared some cheese empanadas and the boys had some pretty decadent Nutella and strawberry crepes. We saw a number of local families who had taken young ones to the gardens in there.
We’d kicked around the idea of going by Copacabana and Ipanema beaches on the way back to the ship, but we were pretty worn out from the heat, so we just went straight back. The Uber back, while taking less time, cost about twice as much as the one going over. I’ll never understand Uber pricing.Leia mais
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- Dia 25
- segunda-feira, 27 de janeiro de 2025 13:09
- 🌧 82 °F
- Altitude: 115 pés
BrasilAqueduto da Carioca22°54’38” S 43°10’51” W
Farwell to Rio and Brazil

We had a 7:45 meeting time in the Lounge for our “Highlights of Rio” excursion, which meant a quick breakfast in the room. We met our group and trooped over to the bus staging area for our ride out to Corcovado and a trip up to the Christ the Redeemer statue. It’s about a twenty-minute ride through jungle-covered slopes to get to the top. Once there we piled out and the four of us chose to climb the 220 steps to the viewing platform rather than queue up for an elevator. It was cloudy, but the clouds moved around enough to give us shifting views of the city below. It’s a spectacular view from the top, which explains the crowds. The Instagrammers who need to strike their pose, take a shot, review it, and repeat, didn’t make it any easier to move around. We had a full hour at the top, which was frankly more than we needed, so we grabbed a snack and a drink at the little café on the lower level.
Once back down to the bottom we took the scenic route back to the dock. We passed through some of Rio’s fancier neighborhoods and then along Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. These are justifiably famous as you get not only nice beaches but a breathtaking setting with the jungle-covered hills behind the hotels and high-end residences. Our guide pointed out that if you want a picture of Rio in a nutshell, look to the north end of Ipanema, where you get the beach, the hills and jungle, a 5-star hotel, and a favela clinging to the slope behind.
When we returned to the port we immediately grabbed an Uber to the metropolitan cathedral. We’d seen pictures of this in the lecture on Rio we had attended on board and were intrigued. It turned out to be one of the highlights of our whole Brazil experience. The building looks like no other church I’ve ever seen. Designed by architect Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca, it was begun in 1964 and completed in 1979 and done in a style that recalls the ancient Mayan pyramids. Elizabeth and I were immediately taken both by the look and the openness of the building. There is a huge open entrance with no doors that invites you inside. Once inside you are in a massive round space with no interior walls, only the sloping exterior meeting far above your head. We’ve seen many churches on our travels, but none that felt as inclusive of its community as this one. To top it off, it was raining as we came in and the sound of the rain running down the stepped outside walls was magical. It was like being inside one of those rain sticks that have the beads that rattle when you flip them over. Really a memorable experience.
We Ubered back to the ship for a late lunch, after which we gave the boys the afternoon off. Liz and I walked down to the Museum of Tomorrow, both to get a closer look and to get a bit more exercise. While I don’t really love the aesthetic of the place, it’s undeniably cool and impressive. We took a lap around the building, which let me pick up a couple of new birds: Masked Water-Tyrant and Saffron Finch. Then it was back to the ship for our 5:00 departure. We sat out on the balcony and watched Rio and Brazil recede until sunset.
Liz was quite sad to leave Rio. It’s a reality of a trip like this that you aren’t going to have very long in any one place, and we could have happily stayed much longer in Rio. A city of 12 million people, it has its problems and the locals will be the first to tell you that. But it also has a variety of people and cultures, architecture ranging from Portuguese colonial to art deco to that amazing modern cathedral, and a stunning geographical setting. Both Rio specifically and Brazil in general surpassed our expectations. We spent 15 days exploring Brazil – several of them sea days, granted – and barely scratched the surface. It’s a massive country with a lot to see.
But for now it’s onward to Uruguay!Leia mais
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- Dia 27
- quarta-feira, 29 de janeiro de 2025 21:24
- 🌙 75 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean34°44’26” S 53°26’20” W
Sea days

A couple of sea days before we have four days in port in Montevideo, Buenos Aires, and Punta del Este. On Tuesday General Manager Ludmila invited us to have dinner in Toscana. We had a wonderful time getting to know her and enjoying the food at a leisurely pace. She’s been all over, of course, even before starting a career in the cruise industry. We really hit it off and found ourselves in sync on many topics. The boys were outstanding, participating in the conversation and hanging in there for a 2-plus hour dinner. My only regret was that I didn’t get a picture of us together.
Wednesday was Lunar New Year and Terrace Café was done up for the occasion. The chefs set up a stir fry station on the terrace and there was plenty of tasty Asian food. It’s nice to see the effort put in to keep things interesting.Leia mais
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- Dia 28
- quinta-feira, 30 de janeiro de 2025 15:00
- 🌬 77 °F
- Altitude: 131 pés
UruguaiPlaza Matriz34°54’30” S 56°12’26” W
Montevideo

We docked at Montevideo at 8:00 on what promised to be a wonderful day: clear skies, light breezes, and a forecast high around 80°F. While there was an around-the-world event scheduled for today, we decided to forego that because we really wanted to explore the city. We formed a general plan to walk to the Plaza Independencia, walk at least some of the Rambla on the river/ocean side (as opposed to the bay side), and grab some lunch. The old town area is very compact, so we wound up going all the way over to the Rambla from the port. We walked along there, seeing people fishing and having a beach day, the ferry coming in from Buenos Aires, and some nice birds. We then cut back up to the Plaza Independencia. This is a large square that is dominated by an enormous statue of José Gervasio Artigas, father of Uruguayan nationhood. We went down below the statue to his tomb, which features notable moments from his life written on the walls and two soldiers standing guard. Coming back up we took in views of the beautiful buildings surrounding the square. Many of the old buildings in Montevideo have been repurposed to serve as museums, restaurants, and shops. This works really well, as you get the nice buildings but you also get activity.
Leaving the square, we walked to a nearby bookstore. Montevideo is loaded with bookstores, which warms my heart. This one was in a beautiful old building with an old-fashioned elevator and marble stairs. We didn’t find any English-language books for ourselves, but we did make a purchase for someone back home and we enjoyed perusing the stacks.
After the bookstore we wandered over to a restaurant called Flora that we’d discovered online. It turned out to be an excellent stop. There were only locals inside, which I generally take as a good sign. The place was open and airy and very inviting. The waitress didn’t speak much English, but that was fine as we were able to muddle through with our Spanish. I’m far more comfortable attempting a conversation in Spanish than in Portuguese! The food was outstanding. Liz and I shared a falafel sandwich on focaccia and a vegetable sandwich that was like a panini. The boys had breakfast food: pancakes for DJ and French toast (which had a brûlée-like crust on it) for Thomas. All of it came with delicious fruit.
After lunch we took a pedestrian street back to the ship for a break. The boys had had enough walking, but after an hour or so Liz and I went back out to see what we might have missed and to get in a few more steps. We didn’t hit any major sights, but we really enjoyed walking around. In fact I have to say we really fell in love with Montevideo. It’s a capital city, but it’s also a beach city. It’s big enough to have a lot going on, but not so busy as to be overwhelming. The climate feels a lot like Southern California: warm in the sun, but get in the shade and you have a nice breeze cooling you off. If the American experiment fails in the next few years maybe we’ll flee to Uruguay!Leia mais
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- Dia 29
- sexta-feira, 31 de janeiro de 2025 16:07
- ☀️ 82 °F
- Altitude: 148 pés
ArgentinaRecoleta34°35’47” S 58°23’39” W
Buenos Aires day 1

Liz and I were up early as usual. Rather than rousing the boys too soon we went up by ourselves for breakfast and brought them something back to the room. We had to get them going for the 8:45 rendezvous for our city highlights tour. We managed that and were on our way with our guide Juliana. First stop was the Recoleta Cemetery, which is filled with mausoleums of old rich Buenos Aires families. There are no headstones or grass of any kind, just huge mausoleums. The closest thing I can remember ever seeing are the cemeteries in New Orleans where below-ground burial is difficult with the high water table. But this was done by preference, with the old families seeing it as a sign of prestige. This has unsurprisingly fallen out of favor recently, with people preferring to buy housing for the living. But it has left an amazing legacy. We paid a visit to Eva Perón’s grave and spent about 30 minutes wandering among the rest. Really interesting.
After the cemetery we went off to the Plaza de Mayo, featuring the “pink house,” which holds the presidential offices and from which Evita gave her speeches, and the Metropolitan Cathedral, where Pope Francis presided when he was bishop of Buenos Aires. The church is done in a neoclassical style, making it look more like a government building than a church from the outside. But inside it’s beautiful. I especially liked the sculpture of a homeless person sleeping covered on a bench, his feet exposed and showing the stigmata and a plaque reading “Cristo de los pobres.”
The next stop was in the Caminito neighborhood where the tango is said to have originated. Along the way we stopped to pay homage to the Boca Juniors fútbol stadium. The whole neighborhood was painted azul y oro…the team is kind of a big thing. The Caminito neighborhood was originally a migrant settlement where they painted their simple houses various colors. That tradition lives on and was cool to see. The rest of the experience was pretty touristy, but overall the tour was very good. Juliana was our best guide to date.
We returned to the ship for some lunch, then went back out on our own. Our goal was the Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore, which is in an old theater. We walked there and it was well worth the effort: the inside of the store was spectacular. There’s a café where the stage used to be, and the rest of the space is taken up by books. We had to have a drink in the café – banana smoothie for DJ, frozen lemonade for Thomas, iced latte for Liz, and an “iced Havana” for me, which was iced coffee with dulce de leche, so basically a milkshake.
The walk to and from the bookstore was nearly as good as the store itself. The buildings are a treat to see. Many French-inspired, but many other styles as well. Big, broad boulevards and tons of shady green parks. It was really nice. And always fun to mix with the locals doing their thing on a Friday afternoon. The boys are still trying to wrap their head around it being summer vacation here. The schools knock off at Christmas and go back at the end of February.
All in all a great day. Liz is in love with the city. I threatened to move to Montevideo; she may move to Buenos Aires. At least they are close to one another!Leia mais

ViajanteLOL, I don't know! Our guide said it does that but I'll admit to not going back at night to check.

Two to TravelLovely … we don’t have much time on our fly-in overnight in BsAs next week, but maybe we can fit this in. Mui would love the iced Havana.
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- Dia 30
- sábado, 1 de fevereiro de 2025 19:49
- ☀️ 82 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
ArgentinaDarsena A34°35’18” S 58°21’31” W
Buenos Aires day 2

We decided we’d explore the ecological preserve that runs along the coast just south of the cruise terminal, officially the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. We wanted to save the walking for the preserve and the city, so we took a taxi. We needed to arrange a price and find one that would take a credit card, but once again high school Spanish was sufficient.
The preserve is a wonderful oasis right next to the city. Lots of people were out walking, running, and biking. We didn’t wind up walking quite as far as we’d planned as the heat got pretty fierce. Going back into the city proper we found we could get more of a breeze and seek out the shade of the buildings, which helped a lot. We walked along the Rio Dique, which is the old port facility that has been converted into waterfront shops and restaurants. We crossed over on the very cool Puente de la Mujer, or “women’s bridge,” a pedestrian-only crossing. We found a nice little pizza place where the boys had the usual pizza, Liz had an avocado flatbread, and I had a veggie sandwich. The sandwich was very good – sauteed eggplant and zucchini rather than the usual lettuce/tomato/bell pepper combo.
After lunch we made our way back to the Plaza Hotel, where the Oceania shuttle stop was located. Then back to the ship to give the boys some free time. Liz and I debated going back to the city, but the last shuttle back was at 4:30, so we did not have a lot of time. Plus I, for one, was a bit sapped from walking in the heat and we already had a good amount of steps. So we just brought our books down to the pool.
We really enjoyed our time in both Montevideo and Buenos Aires. As we returned to the ship, we were approached by a woman doing a survey of tourists for the city government. Liz liked the city so much that she stopped to take the survey to make sure the positive feedback was getting through. Maybe one day we’ll be back.Leia mais
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- Dia 31
- domingo, 2 de fevereiro de 2025 15:17
- ☀️ 77 °F
- Altitude: 30 pés
UruguaiPlaya de los Ingleses34°57’50” S 54°57’3” W
Punta del Este

We dropped anchor outside of Punta del Este right on time at 8:00. We let the organized tours go ahead while we had breakfast outside in the Terrace Café. We were on board a tender around 9:00 headed for the marina, which was jam packed with boats. Our first order of business once ashore was to check out the Los Dedos de Punta del Este sculpture. This turned out to be a bit of a longer walk than I’d anticipated, but that was fine as the shoreline provided a wonderful backdrop. In all the pictures I’d seen of the fingers they looked white, but when we arrived they were brown. This lessened the impact a bit as they sort of blended in with the sand. It was still cool, but not quite as striking as I’d been expecting.
We took the obligatory photos, swapping cameras with another family to get full group shots. We wanted to spend some time on the calmer bay side beach, so we cut across the peninsula. It’s narrow, so it was only a five-minute walk. We found a spot that was renting umbrellas and chairs and grabbed some beach space. The beach was crowded, but not to an uncomfortable degree, and we didn’t hear any English being spoken at all. Looked like all locals having a Sunday beach day or people from nearby on their Punta del Este vacation. It was very much like being at a beach at home in the summer.
We grabbed lunch at a food hall across the street from the beach. After lunch we walked back to the marina on the beach with our feet in the water, which felt great. We were back on board around 4:00, well ahead of the 6:00 scheduled departure time.
This closes out the South America portion of our trip. We really loved all of it, probably even more than we were hoping to. Now we get ready for a bunch of sea days as we cross the Atlantic.Leia mais
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- Dia 32
- segunda-feira, 3 de fevereiro de 2025 20:13
- ⛅ 73 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean35°15’38” S 46°38’43” W
Atlantic crossing day 1

The clocks got moved ahead one hour last night, but I was still up early and went up to Horizons for morning coffee. We are headed due east, so the sunrise was nice to watch, at least until the sun was up over the horizon and blasting directly through the windows. My usual morning routine is to catch up on email, send a message to my mom, do my puzzles (Wordle, Connections, “where in the world?,” etc.) and read the paper. As we drift further away from our home time zone, this is getting harder to do. I went to read the Times this morning only to get yesterday’s paper as the new one wasn’t up yet. Naturally this problem will only be exacerbated as we continue east.
The time change meant the boys slept in later than usual, but that was OK. We had breakfast and then attended the lecture on the history of West Africa by “Dr Sherry.” It was very informative, especially since this is an area of history that is seldom covered in American schools. After that it was school, lunch, and exercise, which took us into the late afternoon.
I was reviewing our plans for Cape Town and wanted to verify that the tour we’d booked on the second day would get us back in time. Turns out it would not, despite earlier assurances. Or at least not back soon enough for me… “back by 1730-1745, depending on traffic” when we have an 1800 departure time is cutting it far too close. So we canceled that and checked on ship excursions that day. Turns out there is a peninsula tour that will allow us to visit the penguins, which we remember from our 1999 trip to South Africa. We signed up for that, using shipboard credit.
Seas and winds have been remarkably calm so far. Fingers crossed that continues!Leia mais
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- Dia 34
- quarta-feira, 5 de fevereiro de 2025 02:14
- ⛅ 70 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean35°21’11” S 38°25’4” W
Crossing day 2

We wound up with a very full sea day on the second day of our Atlantic crossing. We started off with math (Devin) and English (Thomas) classes and then went to the cooking demonstration in the Insignia Lounge. This consisted of executive chef Farid and GM Ludmila preparing a couple of dishes. There was an ongoing Q&A, during which we learned a bit about the operation of the galleys on board, including the fact that there are 67(!) chefs working the various kitchens.
We had additional school work to get through after the demo. After lunch the boys and I did a bit of scavenging for our boat construction project. Thomas and I attended a talk on the greatest inventions of the past 100 years. This was just OK. We did some exercising in our room, then turned the boys loose as Liz and I went to get on the treadmills in the gym. After the gym Liz did a bit of reorganizing of the rooms.
After dinner we took some laps around the interior of the ship as the wind was blowing hard enough to make laps on the track pretty uncomfortable.Leia mais
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- Dia 35
- quinta-feira, 6 de fevereiro de 2025 13:23
- ☀️ 77 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean29°11’12” S 14°18’23” W
Rolling with the changes

We were formally informed today that our planned stop at Tristan da Cunha on Saturday will not be happening. The seas and winds are too high for a safe tendering operation. We knew going in that this port was an iffy proposition, but it’s disappointing to miss it. I’d looked forward to setting foot on such a remote location and seeing the bird and animal life. Such is life. This does mean we’ll have ten consecutive sea days, which is a lot.
We’ve been filling the days, though. The boys have been terrific about the school work, and with the 1:1 teaching we’re cruising right along. DJ will get through two sections of the textbook in a single one-hour session many times, and Thomas is making great progress in learning Java. We’ve been taking advantage of the onboard lectures which are both informative and a good way to break up the day. We also met a man named Nick who offered to teach the boys a method for solving a Rubik’s cube.
I’ve yet to see an albatross from the ship, which is a goal, but I have notched two life birds over the past few days: Spectacled Petrel and White-headed Petrel. Hoping for some more birds as we continue across the ocean.Leia mais
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- Dia 38
- domingo, 9 de fevereiro de 2025 08:47
- ☀️ 72 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean26°45’52” S 1°50’41” E
Atlantic crossing continues

With Tristan da Cunha scrubbed the staff scurried to put together a few extra activities for our “surprise sea day” as CD Carson referred to it. One of these was a memory workshop put on by the magician/comedian who’s been performing on board. We went to his show on Friday night and attended the memory seminar on Saturday afternoon. This was not prepared, so we appreciated the effort to get up and present something for 45 minutes to a crowd. It was a good session.
Later in the day we got started on a big (2000 pieces!) puzzle in the card room. We’re not sure it’s going to fit on the table in there, so we may need to move it to the library at some point. We’ll see how it looks when we get the border closer to completion.
Sunday was our best sea day to date, with lots of stuff to do. We started off with breakfast and then a (nautical) mile walk around the walking track, which is something we’re trying to do after every meal. Then we had math and English classes for both boys. At 11:00 we went to another edition of the GM Ludmila vs CD Carson cook-off. This time Carson won by acclimation as Ludmila was a bit flummoxed by the requirement to use pomegranate, blueberries, and feta cheese together in a recipe. The ribbing between the two devolved into a food fight that the boys enjoyed immensely.
After lunch we did another set of laps and were treated to a brief glimpse of what we think were a pair of pilot whales surfacing quite close to the ship, which was a treat. We then attended a talk by Dr Sherry on the history of Namibia. As usual she did a great job of presenting a sorrowful history in an even-handed way. I’d venture to say that few of us present had much of an idea of Namibia’s road to nationhood.
After a bit of a relaxation break, we headed up to the library to do an escape room that the entertainment staff had set up. We were joined by Ken and Jennifer from Naples, Florida, to make a team of six. We managed to solve the puzzles and escape the room with just 30 seconds remaining of our 20 minute session. It was a lot of fun, and Thomas declared it the best thing he’d done on the ship so far.
After another brief break, DJ and I went to a talk by Dr Shoena on extraterrestrial life. DJ had asked me an excellent question after watching one of her talks on the television: if matter cannot be created or destroyed, how did the Big Bang happen? I told him I don’t know how to answer that, and suggested he has the Dr after her next talk. So he did, and she was very happy to have a question that “flummoxed” her, as she put it. We just don’t know, she told Devin, and if you figure it out you’ll get yourself a Nobel prize. I wouldn’t put it past him.
We had a latish dinner, then Liz and I did another set of laps while the boys played ping pong. At 9:00 there was a stargazing event on the top deck. This was supposed to feature some of the ship’s officers discussing celestial navigation and presumably pointing out stars and constellations. We couldn’t hear anything, though, so we just looked around at things like the Southern Cross, an upside-down Orion, and the moons of Jupiter, visible through our binoculars.
Weather for the day was absolutely perfect: clear skies, temperatures in the low 70’s, calm seas, and little wind. Could not ask for better.Leia mais
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- Dia 40
- terça-feira, 11 de fevereiro de 2025 04:42
- 🌬 64 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean24°15’0” S 12°37’55” E
Closing in on Africa

Both Liz and I woke up during the night leading into Tuesday morning due to the rocking of the ship. When we got up we could see that the sea state was much rougher than it had been for the previous couple of days. I was a bit queasy and so stayed in the cabin rather than going up to Horizons for my usual morning coffee. We did get breakfast and got the boys out of bed, which was more challenging than usual as we’d lost another hour over night, putting us ten hours ahead of California.
Our school day was split in two as we wanted to attend the Country Fair in the late morning. Recall that at the first one DJ won a bottle of wine in the raffle (substituted out for a bag and some golf equipment by CD Carson). He was determined to win another one, but alas, no raffle winners for us this time around. We did have fun playing the games, though.
In the evening we attended a performance in the Insignia Lounge featuring the string quartet that has been aboard since Miami. The group consists of four young women from the Fryderyk Chopin Institute in Warsaw. Two of them were childhood friends, growing up as neighbors since the age of seven. Pretty amazing, and they put on a great show of movie music.
I’ll say again how appreciative we are of the efforts made by the crew to keep things lively on these sea days. Yesterday they put on a huge Super Bowl party in the Insignia Lounge. Then today the Country Fair. Ten days is a long time at sea, and I for one am very ready to set foot on land on Thursday. All the activities have kept it from being a real grind.Leia mais
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- Dia 42
- quinta-feira, 13 de fevereiro de 2025 19:31
- ⛅ 72 °F
- Altitude: 906 pés
NamíbiaGoanikontes22°38’48” S 14°50’4” E
Hello, Namibia!

We pulled into Walvis Bay, Namibia, early in the morning in dense fog. The fog is, at least according to one explanation, part of the reason for the name “Skeleton Coast” that applies to this stretch of Namibia. The recurring fog has historically made it hard for ships to determine how close to land they are, resulting in numerous shipwrecks. The other story we’ve heard regarding the name has to do with the many dead seals, sea lions, and whales that may be encountered on the beaches. More on that later.
We needed to get moving in the morning as Namibian immigration required a face-to-face process that took place in the Insignia Lounge. Once through with that, we headed out to meet the bus for our excursion. This took us out into the desert, first to see and learn about the welwitschia plant. This plant is well-adapted to the Namib, where rainfall can be less than 25mm in a year. It has male and female varieties, which we learned to identify by the shape of the blossoms.
After seeing the welwitschia, we went to the “moon valley,” so named because it resembles the lunar landscape. It reminded us quite a bit of sections of Death Valley. Given that we’ve been to Death Valley multiple times, this landscape wasn’t quite as impressive as it might be to others who have never seen anything like it. What did impress us was the sheer emptiness of the Namib Desert. Miles of flat, featureless landscape. Namibia is the second least densely populated country in the world, after Mongolia, so you see very few people as well.
We returned to the ship in the early afternoon and had lunch, then rested for a bit before our around the world event. This was set to go at 5:30, so we once again headed down to the Lounge for our bus assignments. We got on the bus and watched a very familiar route unfold…it appeared we’d be going back to the exact place we’d been this morning! It turned out to not be exactly the same, but was close. We went to a valley to enjoy some hors d’oeuvres and watch the sun set. We spent a little over an hour there chatting, walking around, and enjoying the beautiful views. After this we were shuttled off to a different valley where we were to have dinner. As we pulled up we saw that there were luminarias burning and the cliffsides were illuminated with faint purple lighting. It was really breathtaking to see. Tables and a buffet were set up for our dinner, along with a stage for the entertainment.
We found a table and settled in. The stars of the show that was presented were the African Youth Choir, who were fantastic. They did all manner of songs, from opera to pop. The highlight for me was when the conductor introduced a song by a “Tanzanian composer.” It took me a second, but then I realized he was talking about Farrokh Bulsara, born in Zanzibar and better known as Freddie Mercury. The choir did Bohemian Rhapsody and it was amazing. The whole night was really magical. The setting was perfection and it was inspiring to see the blend of people and cultures coming together. It summed up the point of the trip for us, really, to show the boys how different ideas and customs have so much to give and to learn from. As Elizabeth put it in her Facebook post, talking about Thomas and Devin, “they will never fear people or places simply because they are different.” What a great first day in Africa.Leia mais
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- Dia 43
- sexta-feira, 14 de fevereiro de 2025 06:20
- ⛅ 66 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
South Atlantic Ocean22°55’50” S 14°25’42” E
Valentine's Day in Walvis Bay

We did not get back to the ship from our around the world event until after midnight, then had an 8:45 meeting time for our excursion, so the boys did not get a full night of sleep. But they rallied and we were off on what was ostensibly a birding tour but wound up being more of a general nature exploration. We started off at the lagoon to see the flamingos, both greater (larger, lighter colored) and lesser (smaller, darker pink, almost orange). Then it was off to the salt pans, a huge operation where sea salt is “mined” – “collected” might be a better term, but it’s called a salt mine. The huge conical piles of salt glistened in the sun and looked like snow. The shallow waters of the lagoon alongside the salt pans attract many birds, and I collected several lifers here.
After the salt pans we continued out along the beach to Pelican Point. It was great to drive along the beach as it was totally deserted, which was such a contrast to our beaches at home. Again, the emptiness of Namibia was really striking. We made a quick stop to take a close look at the sand, which is composed of pulverized gems such as rubies, along with magnetite and the usual silica. Thomas was sure that there must be some way to extract these bits from the sand and turn a profit. As we approached the seal colony (which I think were actually sea lions, but the guide referred to them as seals, so OK) we saw more and more dead seals scattered along the beach, mostly small ones. When we reached the colony, which was quite large, we saw many dead seals. This bothered DJ quite a bit, which was too bad as the colony itself was fun to watch as they swam in the shallow water.
Leaving the point, we drove back along the beach for one final stop atop a dune for a panoramic view. The 4x4 required a good running start to get to the top of the steep dune and a couple of the wheels were spinning in the loose sand, but we made it. We enjoyed the view and then had a roller coaster ride back over the crest of the dune and down the steep face. We actually did this twice as one of the vehicles in our group got stuck on the top and needed help getting repositioned, so we went back around.
Once back to the ship we had lunch, then left the boys for some free time on their own while Liz and I did a quick walk back to some shops located near the dock. Liz found a nice sweater that she purchased as we have found we’re a bit light on long-sleeved things to wear during the cool evenings.
We capped the day off with a nice Valentine’s Day dinner at Toscana.Leia mais
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- Dia 44
- sábado, 15 de fevereiro de 2025 12:03
- ☀️ 73 °F
- Altitude: 59 pés
NamíbiaShark Island26°38’7” S 15°9’8” E
Lüderitz

Friday night heading from Walvis Bay to Lüderitz was easily the roughest time we’ve yet had on the sea. Ken, a fellow ATW passenger, said he “caught air” while lying in bed. I believe it, as we were really riding up and crashing down the swells. I never felt seasick, but sleeping was impossible. Well, for us anyway; the boys slept right through it all. Fortunately we pulled into Lüdertiz before 7:00.
We had no real plan for the day beyond walking around the town. So we had breakfast and set out, with the Felsenkirche as our destination. This is a church up on the top of the hill that the town is built on, easily visible from pretty much anywhere in the area. We made it up there and chatted a bit with the attendant who filled us in on some of the history.
The town is small, so the walk to the church was hardly enough. To extend it we walked out to Shark Island, which is really a peninsula that forms one side of the bay. During apartheid times this housed a prison, and the story we heard was that the name Shark Island was adopted to discourage escape attempts via the sea. The peninsula now has a number of high-end homes and lodgings. At the very end there is a campground that had excellent views of both sides of the peninsula.
The walk back to the ship gave us enough exercise, so we called it there and spent the afternoon relaxing and finishing up the ship model we’d built for the competition. We did learn later that due to the weather – presumably the fact that much of the pool has sloshed out – the “sea trials” portion of the judging will not be taking place and the title will be awarded based on appearance and the “facts” you submit about your entry.Leia mais
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- Dia 47
- terça-feira, 18 de fevereiro de 2025 09:37
- ☀️ 72 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
África do SulDuncan Dock33°54’47” S 18°25’51” E
Return to Cape Town

Elizabeth and I visited Cape Town way back in 1999 and absolutely loved it, so we were looking forward to our return and wondering if the city would live up to our memories. Spoiler alert: it did. The day was absolutely gorgeous, with clear skies and little wind. We had to get the boys up early for face-to-face immigration proceedings with South African officials. They did great, and we got through the process without much of a wait. We had time to grab a quick breakfast before heading out to visit Table Mountain. There was an excellent view of Table Mountain from the Terrace Café, with just enough cloud to spill over the top.
Our excursion for the day was billed as Table Mountain and City Tour, which we were taking mainly to get ourselves up the mountain. We bussed over and got in line for the trip to the top. The wait for the cable car was over an hour, but we passed it chatting with a couple we’d not yet met on the ship. Once on board DJ conquered his fear of heights and was able to enjoy the view from the rotating floor of the cable car. We had about an hour to explore the top, so we walked around, absorbing the various views before heading back down. The excursion was supposed to include a bit of a city tour, but the long queue meant we did not have enough time for that, so it was direct back to the ship.
We had lunch, then walked over to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. We’d visited this on our first trip to Cape Town, but it has grown much larger since then. And it was bustling, even on a Monday afternoon, which was great to see. You really root for these African countries, but many have trouble getting their economies on track and struggle with the corrupt systems left behind in the wake of colonialism. At least this area was thriving. We wandered around for a couple hours and had some very nice gelato.
Dinner was at the Terrace Café, where we watched the clouds falling over the top of Table Mountain. Liz and I both felt like we could watch for hours. Even though we had plenty of steps, mostly from walking around the waterfront, we did some laps on the track and watched the sun set behind Signal Hill. It was a glorious day.Leia mais
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- Dia 47
- terça-feira, 18 de fevereiro de 2025 13:23
- 🌬 72 °F
- Altitude: 26 pés
África do SulBoulders Penguin Colony34°11’46” S 18°27’1” E
Exploring the Cape Peninsula

We had our longest excursion thus far scheduled for Tuesday: a full-day exploration of the Cape Peninsula, with stops at the cape itself, Simon’s Town for lunch and penguin viewing, and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. The long trip meant another early day for the boys, so we brought them food from the Café to get them going. We were on the bus and ready to go at 7:15.
It was a fairly long haul down to the cape, but the scenery along the way was breathtaking. We climbed up Chapman’s Peak and had spectacular views of the shoreline below. As we entered the less developed areas I spotted an African Harrier-hawk and we saw a group of Bontebok, a type of antelope. Arriving at the cape point, we took the obligatory photo behind the sign proclaiming this the southwestern tip of Africa and stretched our legs and watched the birds and fur seals. Some clarity on the latter from what I posted in a previous entry: these really are called Fur Seals, but they are a type of sea lion rather than a true seal. They have external ears and can pivot their rear flippers forward to help them walk on land.
After this stop we went to the cape lighthouse, which is perched high up and offers great panoramic views. There is a funicular to the top, but it was not operating. We took the offered bus up and explored. We walked down as we wanted to get some steps on this day with so much time on the bus. On the way down we saw a group of ostrich feeding nearby.
Next stop was Simon’s Town for lunch. The restaurant was seafood-focused, but they did pasta for us vegetarians. We then proceeded to the penguin beach. Liz and I were in Simon’s Town in 1999, but it has changed quite a bit since then. At the time you would just walk down to the beach and look at the penguins, but now there’s a whole enclosed area for them that charges an entry fee. The observation platform gives you excellent views, and the birds are better protected from the visitors. We had a great time watching the penguins entering and exiting the water, and DJ spotted one sitting on an egg.
Our final stop was at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. This is a really well-done garden, with a huge number of local plants, all identified as to species. They now have a canopy walk that takes you out at treetop height, which was cool. We only had about an hour in the garden, but we made good use of it to walk around.
We were back to the ship around 4:30 to see many new faces aboard. The Rio-to-Cape Town segment had ended and the Cape Town-to-Singapore segment had begun. Rumor has it we gained some 200 new passengers here and are now at or near capacity.
The wind had really kicked up since we left, and the harbor was full of whitecaps. As we moved out beyond the breakwater the wind was really howling outside. We found a sheltered spot on the pool deck to watch first Table Mountain and then the Twelve Apostles disappear into the distance.Leia mais
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- Dia 49
- quinta-feira, 20 de fevereiro de 2025 10:57
- ☀️ 72 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
Indian Ocean34°24’54” S 22°11’52” E
Missing Mossel Bay

For the second time thus far the weather imposed its will on us. It had been windy and choppy all night, so it was not a huge shock when the captain came on about 10:00 AM and told us that our scheduled stop in Mossel Bay was canceled. Same reasoning as the Tristan da Cunha cancelation: the tender operations would be too dangerous. We’d planned a game drive at a reserve for the day, so we were disappointed that we’d miss that. However it was likely the least “natural” of the game drives we’d planned, so we’ll push on. We did use the surprise sea day to rework our upcoming days to allow for the maximum amount of African wildlife viewing. Gotta roll with the changes.Leia mais

ViajanteOn a trip this long there's no way there won't be some disruptions and changes. Just part of the deal.
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- Dia 50
- sexta-feira, 21 de fevereiro de 2025 18:36
- ☁️ 75 °F
- Altitude: 2.156 pés
África do SulMlazi Dam29°49’46” S 30°32’6” E
Durban - Tala Game Reserve

Our original plan for Durban was to walk over to uShaka Marine Park, a hybrid aquarium/waterslide park adjacent to the cruise port. But after missing Mossel Bay we wanted to really lean into the game drives to give ourselves the maximum opportunity to see wildlife. There’s a game reserve called Tala that’s about 90 minutes (in theory) from the city that, while a more controlled environment than a true national park, offers chances to see African wildlife in their natural surroundings. We signed up for the latest of three different excursions out to Tala, leaving at 2:20. Our thinking was that later in the day was better (early is best, but we didn’t dock until 8:00, so there wasn’t an opportunity to do an early morning drive). We headed out on time but encountered horrific traffic that turned the 90-minute drive into a 2 ½ hour odyssey. We were supposed to be starting our drive at 4:00, but it was after 5:00. We all soldiered on, though, as we did want to see some animals.
We piled into several 4-wheel drive vehicles and almost immediately saw a white rhinoceros. Liz and I have been on two large African vacations and done numerous game drives and never once saw a rhino (just the way wildlife viewing goes). Now here was one just hanging out. DJ really, really wants to see an elephant in the wild, but Tala does not have elephants. Nor do they have lions, as these have been removed to a separate preserve. Outside of that, the environment is natural – the animals are on their own as to feeding and mating. We wound up with good looks at zebras, wildebeest, more rhinos, and giraffes. On the bird front we saw a flock of crowned cranes fly in and had a pair of blue cranes, which are South Africa’s national bird. As dusk was falling we watched a pair of hippos in a pool. It was getting well and truly dark as we headed back, so we couldn’t see a lot. The lateness paid off, though, as we had a spotted eagle-owl perched on top of a tree.
The drive back was uneventful and we hit the ship just before 9:00. We were informed as we were coming aboard that the Terrace Café, which normally closes at 9:00, would stay open an extra thirty minutes. That was nice, and we let the staff know how much we appreciated them staying late for us. That’s a very late dinner for us, so we didn’t eat a lot, but it was nice to have something.Leia mais
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- Dia 51
- sábado, 22 de fevereiro de 2025 11:32
- ⛅ 88 °F
- Altitude: 413 pés
África do SulHlabisa28°5’1” S 32°7’0” E
Hluhluwe round one

Richards Bay gets its name from a British admiral of the late 19th century, who saw the harbor as a place that could be used as a supply point for British imperial forces who were battling the Zulu. It’s a beautiful spot, with tree-lined beaches and calm water. For us it would serve as a jumping-off point for two trips to Hluhluwe-iMfololzi Park. Hluhluwe, a Zulu word that is pronounced something like “shlush-loo-we,” is one of the oldest nature preserves in the world, established in 1895.
We got started on our drive out around 8:30, arriving at the park just after 11:00. This is not an ideal time to view wildlife, but our drive got off to a good start nonetheless. We immediately saw warthogs, which are very common in the park, and then a rhino at close range. Israel, our guide, gave us good information on the animals and birds we were seeing. We saw more rhinos, nyala antelope, impala, and zebra, but the highlight was a pair of lions resting in a thicket. We got good views as they were right next to the road. Had they not been we likely wouldn’t have seen them at all.
There were many great birds as well, including a malachite kingfisher that posed nicely for a photo. The one big miss on the day were elephants. DJ really wanted to see them, and we heard from others that they had seen elephants, but we missed them. But Sunday would provide another chance.Leia mais
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- Dia 52
- domingo, 23 de fevereiro de 2025 11:04
- ⛅ 84 °F
- Altitude: 367 pés
África do SulHlabisa28°5’21” S 32°6’21” E
Hluhluwe round two

Our second trip out to Hluhluwe started much earlier. We were on the bus at 6:15 and on our way to the park shortly after. The early start was due to our scheduled 3:00 PM departure from Richards Bay, but it worked well for us as we figured earlier is better for wildlife viewing.
We were at the park and in our vehicle a little after 8:00. With cooler temperatures and fewer people on the roads we thought we’d have better chances at animals, but the drive started out very quiet. Gradually we started having some success, generally repeats of animals we’d seen yesterday. We were still really looking for elephants, but no luck. As time ticked by I was preparing myself for the disappointment I knew that DJ was going to feel if we missed out. Finally we did glimpse a pair of elephants on a distant hillside. We got OK views through binoculars, but I could tell DJ was not satisfied. I had resigned myself to this being the best we were going to get, but with just over an hour left on the drive we saw an elephant cross the road ahead of us. And then she was followed by at least 45 more, including a bunch of babies. Baby elephants are about the cutest things imaginable, and the whole experience was really incredible. You could see the older elephants guiding the others along, keeping everyone in line and on the move toward whatever destination they had in mind.
Shortly after the elephant encounter our driver had a radio conversation with one of the other guides, and then he started hightailing it to another part of the park. We didn’t know what was up, but assumed it was something good because he was clearly on a mission. The draw turned out to be lions: three of them, two males and one female, who were moving around. Seeing lions on the move in the middle of a warm day was a rare treat. The female walked right next to our car, with the males coming along after her in the nearby grass.
That pretty much wrapped up the game drive as we headed back to the park entrance. Everyone was thoroughly pumped up and we swapped stories of our experiences with people who’d been in other vehicles. Then it was time to head back to the ship, meet with South African immigration, and say farewell to this beautiful country.Leia mais
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- Dia 53
- segunda-feira, 24 de fevereiro de 2025 07:14
- ⛅ 79 °F
- Altitude: Nível do mar
MoçambiquePonta Vermelha25°59’16” S 32°35’48” E
Maputo - catch up

We decided to not go ashore at Maputo. With several long days in South Africa we had fallen a bit behind on our school schedule. We also wanted to give the boys a chance to sleep in a bit. Given that we hadn’t formally planned anything for Maputo, staying aboard and doing some catchup seemed the best option. I will say that the city looked pretty as we came in, sitting up on a bluff above the ocean.Leia mais