• Requejo de Sanabria to Lubian

    15–19 avr. 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We stayed at an older Albergue in Requejo, Casa Cervino. There were lots of trucks in this tiny strip town which was confusing until I started seeing guys who looked like they belonged in Tucumcari, New Mexico - drinking beer, wearing camo hats - and realized it was deer hunting season.

    We left Requejo, walking alongside a highway for a little ways until, just after the tiny town of Padornelo, there was a turn off with new-looking Camino markers and yellow markers.pointing to the right toward the village of Aciberos. All the guides pointed that way, EXCEPT for the WisePilgrim app we were using that told us to ignore that turnoff because it was "the old camino" and continue on the road till we saw a turnoff to the left, which was the "new camino."

    So we did that, heading down through a grassy meadow into the trees.
    We crossed a river and kept walking, almost bushwacking sometimes, seeing no evidence that anyone had walked that way before us, other than rare, tiny wooden signs with yellow arrows. If it weren't for the realtime map on the WisePilgrim app, showing our location on the trail, we would have gotten lost. But it was beautiful walking and we were glad we went that way.

    We didnt see one other walker until we reached Lubian, where we checked into the pilgrim Albergue and saw some familiar faces. Martin, a very tall (2 meters, 6' 5" with size 16 shoes) German, 30+ yrs old, with red hair and a silly sense of humor, Katarina, a Danish woman in her 40s, pretty, down-to-earth with whom we had several great conversations, a young Korean woman (we ran into her every time we stopped) who kept to herself and seemed not to speak Spanish or English (altho someone later told us she did speak English). She never joined our table and it was hard to get her to make eye contact. A very heavy French guy who was struggling on the trail... when he'd bend over, we were privileged to see at least 6" of his butt crack. An older snooty Dutch couple who took every opportunity to one-up others. We started dubbing them with trail names. Martin became Bigfoot, the Korean woman we called "the silent assassin", the French guy we named "Butt crack" but when we got to know him a little better and liked him, we shortened his name to BC.

    While sitting at dinner in Lubian a man came up to me and asked if I was American, then told me I needed to call Casa de Cervino, which we had left about 5 hours before in Requejo. I called and found out that we'd forgotten to pay. I started suggesting different ways I could get the money to her. She said No hay problema, I can drive there and get it from you at the cafe. I said are you sure?? That seems like a nig inconvenience. But 15 minutes later, she showed up before we'd finished eating. After walking all day, that seemed like a miracle!:
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