Camino 2018

abril - junho 2018
Uma 51aventura de um dia na Jill Leia mais

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  • 46pegadas
  • 51dias
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  • Salamanca - revisit

    19 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Last week I interrupted my walk to catch up with two friends in Salamanca. I was there again today after a short walk from San Pedro but did not stay, having had a few visits there in the last 12 months. It also seems to be full - and expensive except for the albergue that I’m not in love with. And I did not fancy a repeat of last year’s despair between Salamanca and Zamora. So I’ve skipped a couple of days and bused to Zamora, where there is an excellent donativo albergue. I now have enough time to walk the whole of the Sanabrés.

    Some photos of the mornings walk, Salamanca, and the view from the albergue window in Zamora.
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  • Zamora to Montamarta

    20 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Not a lot happening on today’s walk but it was pleasant - sun but a cool breeze, flat, and a good distance of 18km. Poppies, poppies, new green wheat, ploughed fields and a gravel path.

    I was planning to stay at the albergue at Montamarta, recently refurbished. Just as I was walking towards it I received a text from Guido, a nice Italian pelegrino slightly ahead, warning me that it had not been cleaned and was filthy. He was looking for a casa rural and suggested I do the same. The obvious choice has a proprietor with a poor reputation for his behaviour with women (verified by the locals) so that was out - even at my advanced age it’s a situation I’d prefer not to contemplate!

    But instead, opposite the best restaurant in town, a lovely Casa Rural with a friendly and helpful female owner. My own room, ensuite bathroom, lounge, washing machine, sunny garden, sheets and, oh joy! Towels! Hate the little plastic sponge thing I’m carrying. All for £20. And in the room next door I ran into Jo - an Aussie girl with whom I was previously walking but who had got ahead doing 40km days. What a nice surprise and she seemed pleased to see me too.

    Photos - lovely Zamora, walls and church, a stork apartment house on a church tower with every spot filled (the babies have hatched but without a telephoto lens they just look like white blobs - imagination needed!) And flowers, flat fields, the path and my Casa Rural lounge room.
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  • One horse town and definitely no fiesta

    21 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Granja de Moreruela is waiting. For something to happen. I sat in the main street for half an hour, and one car went past. Despite that it has a resident English speaker, a widow whose husband was English. And a nice pharmacist who does not speak English. We all compared grand baby photos, the universal language.

    The walk to get here had two definite halves - the first beautiful and interesting, with a church on a dam, water, flowers, two deer flashing across my path, a ruined walled town with another deer just below on a ploughed field - and the second long, tedious and hot. Enlivened only by a little snake crossing my path.
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  • On the Sanabrés

    22 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    At Granja, the Via de la Plata splits. One can continue on the VdlP to Astorga and join the Camino Francés, or do as I have and head west to Santiago via the Camino Sanabrés.

    A good days walk although for some reason my feet are very sore this evening, and my ankles puffy. It may be time for a rest day with feet up instead of down. I’m in Tábara which is a pleasant little pueblo and in a room in El Roble Hotel for €20 - I stayed in the municipal albergue last year and it is fine - but for the small amount extra I do love a big towel, a bed instead of bunks, my own bathroom, a tv, air conditioning...,Leia mais

  • Grace before dinner

    25 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A beautiful municipal albergue last night, at Santa Marta de Tera, clean, modern and well designed. We saw and admired it last year. It only takes 12 pilgrims but I set out yesterday at first light and without too much effort was at my destination in time to be among the lucky ones. It is also next to a lovely Romanesque church that boast the oldest known statue of Santiago. A good place to light a few candles.

    After breakfast at the local bar, obligingly opened early by the owner, I set out alone but was shortly joined by two other pilgrims who walked at my pace. James, a 70 year old athlete who has walked from Gibraltar! James has also travelled extensively in Australia - probably seen more of it than me. And Annette, a young judge from Germany. With plenty to talk about among the three of us the 24 kilometres slipped by easily.

    Tonight we are staying in a tiny four person albergue. It is run by an evangelical family, a South African couple who were missionaries in India and Namibia before they came here. They have spent 8 years renovating and restoring this wonderful adobe farmhouse complex - doing all the work themselves. An interesting evening with plenty of religious discussion.
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  • Old stone walls

    26 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A 28km hike today, up hill and down dale. I must be getting fitter. We passed through several very picturesque hamlets with lots of old stone walls and roses tumbling over them in wild profusion. Also across another swampy meadow with masses of tiny orchids. At the end of our walk we arrived at an exceptionally nice looking Casa Rural, where I am sharing a room with Annette, from Germany. She, I and Robert from the USA walk at the same pace and the conversation helps ease the last few kilometres.Leia mais

  • Castles, stone boats and wolves

    27 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    I’m in Pueblo de Sanabria, a small tourist town with a 13th century church, a 15th century castle, and a wolf sanctuary nearby. At the foot of the path over the mountains into Galicia - Santiago is getting closer.

    Getting here was a fairly painless 18km hike, with rain holding off until the last 20 minutes. Along paths that remind me of Galicia, culverts between moss covered stone walls, and then stretches of gorse and heather covered heath.

    Sanabria itself is lovely - steep narrow streets, stone houses with overhanging wooden balconies and slate roofs. A castle complete with stone boat. Legend has it that Jesus visited Sanabria dressed as a pilgrim and sought food from the locals. All refused him except some kindly women in the panadería (bakery). In anger, he struck the ground with his staff, whereupon Lake Sanabria sprang forth and drowned all except the kind women who climbed into the stone boat which was pushed by the river up to the high point beside the castle, where it still rests today.

    We are staying in a charming small hotel slap bang in the middle of town and opposite the best tapas bar. The albergue is across the river and out of town and is run by a rather dour couple. We like albergues but are selective! By sharing a room there is little difference in price. With the advantage you get your own sheets, towels and a good hot shower.

    Tomorrow looks a challenge. A very steep climb to 1350 metres. Let’s hope we are safe from the wolves.
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  • Climbing mountains

    29 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Whew! Yesterday was misty, cold and rainy and I was very glad to reach the little hotel in Padornelo just before the water really started to bucket down! It must be one of the best feelings in the world to sit in a warm restaurant looking out through plate glass windows at the rain, knowing you have walked 24km and are done for the day. The hotel was heavily booked with construction workers from the high speed Ave works (train). It must be an economic boon for this area, albeit temporary.

    From Padornelo I set forth this morning not really prepared for the strenuous ups and downs along the mountain path. Up, down, then up, up it seemed to go. Real scrambling in places and twice I lost my footing in mud and heavily decorated myself with Mother Earth. No damage to anything except my dignity.

    Some beautiful scenery, and the sound of water in streams beside the path, and waterfalls. Wading through water at times - when there is a rocky bottom it’s fine - it’s only mud I dislike!

    So eventually I made it to the pass at altitude 1,260 metres, and into Galicia. Then a few more kilometres to my accommodation, a little hotel in Vilavella.

    I think today was only about 20km. But steep. I am looking forward to dinner.
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  • Soaring high

    31 de maio de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Two days of mountains. Incredible views. Big climbs. Then amazing wonderful walking along long ridge lines - up above the tree line. Really exhilarating. Spain really is a land of mountains.

    It’s been very cold, though mercifully no rain (or only sprinkles) while walking. Last night we were lucky enough to find a restored house in a tiny dot of a mountain village, with roaring wood stove and triple glazing on the windows.

    Today it has been all downhill, back to earth, and staying in an albergue. Where some very kind Italian gentleman insisted I take a bottom bunk. People are so kind. I’m in Laza, in a cozy bar while the rain tumbles on my clean clothes, hanging on a line back at the albergue - too bad, I’m not leaving here to rescue them! And with very sore feet, sore ankles, and sore hips. A few injuries to my feet. I think a rest day is in order.

    Glimpses for the last week of the extraordinary work being done on the high speed rail line. The tunnelling is hard to believe. I can’t imagine how many billions of euros. Yesterday, on a tiny winding narrow mountain road, 7 cement mixer trucks passed us, one after another (with cheerful toots and waves), and lots of other heavy equipment.
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  • Once more unto the breach...

    1 de junho de 2018, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As I struggled up the 560 metre steep incline I did question my sanity. And contemplate a taxi. But there was no way a car could get onto the narrow shale track - it could only be a helicopter rescue. At which point I ate some chocolate from my secret stash. I do think the Kissing Point Road hill will be a piece of cake after this.

    As always once I reach the top it feels awesome. Today’s peak was marked by a quite famous bar, where pilgrims write their details on a shell which is hung or pasted somewhere in the room. Photo under - me and my gang.
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