Castles, stone boats and wolves

I’m in Pueblo de Sanabria, a small tourist town with a 13th century church, a 15th century castle, and a wolf sanctuary nearby. At the foot of the path over the mountains into Galicia - Santiago is getting closer.

Getting here was a fairly painless 18km hike, with rain holding off until the last 20 minutes. Along paths that remind me of Galicia, culverts between moss covered stone walls, and then stretches of gorse and heather covered heath.

Sanabria itself is lovely - steep narrow streets, stone houses with overhanging wooden balconies and slate roofs. A castle complete with stone boat. Legend has it that Jesus visited Sanabria dressed as a pilgrim and sought food from the locals. All refused him except some kindly women in the panadería (bakery). In anger, he struck the ground with his staff, whereupon Lake Sanabria sprang forth and drowned all except the kind women who climbed into the stone boat which was pushed by the river up to the high point beside the castle, where it still rests today.

We are staying in a charming small hotel slap bang in the middle of town and opposite the best tapas bar. The albergue is across the river and out of town and is run by a rather dour couple. We like albergues but are selective! By sharing a room there is little difference in price. With the advantage you get your own sheets, towels and a good hot shower.

Tomorrow looks a challenge. A very steep climb to 1350 metres. Let’s hope we are safe from the wolves.Læs mere