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Camino 2018
  • Jill Hill

Camino 2018

A 51-day adventure by Jill Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 22, 2018
    Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Packed!

    April 22, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It fits. 5.4 kilos in the backpack, 1.5 in the front balance packs. Everything I need and nothing I don’t for 7 weeks. I hope! Laid out is “from the skin out” so it includes the clothes I’ll be wearing, shoes, trekking poles.

    Then the early morning flight. At least there is no traffic at 3:30am! And queued for a very needed coffee.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Dubai sleepover

    April 23, 2018 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Copthorne Airport Hotel courtesy of Emirates for a 17 hour stopover. A big bath (yes!) and a sleep. It’s 40 degrees out side but 22 inside. The hotel gold store looks like fun window shopping.

    View from my bedroom window. Bedroom not bad for a donativo albergue!

    At Dubai airport and it’s like a Camino convention! For the first time I can recall I’ve met other forum members on the way - one from South Africa, one from Tasmania and one from Queensland.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Puerta de Atocha

    April 24, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Catching the Ave fast train to Seville. No time to take a photo because instead I had my first, for this trip, cafe con leche and bocadillo con jamón ibérico y tomate y aceite.

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    What did I do to deserve such delight?

    April 24, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After a fast trip (train was averaging 259kph) through interesting countryside. First there seemed to be miles of new green wheat, then miles of olive trees, then suddenly a golf course - seemingly in the middle of no-where - then groves of orange trees and vineyards. Somewhere I fell asleep - could not keep my eyes open. Took a taxi ride from the station, shared with another Australian who is also planning to walk the Via.

    To arrive at this beautiful hotel and find myself in a lovely room. The first and second photos show the entrance to my room - the white door on the right is mine. The hotel is built around an inner courtyard. And just a stones throw from the cathedral, which I’m planning to visit tomorrow. Heaven on a stick!    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Seville

    April 25, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A very pretty city with the Guadalquivir river flowing through it. This morning visited the worlds largest gothic cathedral, very impressive and extremely well preserved. Got my first “sello” there while listening to the choir - all in their red robes, very nice! But the thing I like best are the little passageways and inner courtyard gardens, filled with lush greenery, flowers, tinkling fountains and beautiful tiles. Very Moorish. Very moreish are also the delicious pastries - I’m making it my duty to sample the various brands of torta de aceite for which Seville is famous.Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Walking out of Seville

    April 26, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    So I lay awake from 3am. My sleep pattern has obviously not yet transitioned to Spanish time. I left as soon as the first birds started tweeting but it was still deep night. As I could see no yellow arrows or anything recognisable, I started to follow the red line on Maps.Me - which seemed to be going in entirely the wrong direction. But who was I to argue with the line on the map!? After about 2km and as the sun came up it dawned on me that I was following the line south. So retrace steps. But the walk was nice! Now I’m stopped for a cafe con leche and tosada con tomate.Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Italica - Roman capital of Hispana

    April 26, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    A short 12km walk from Sevilla, made slightly longer by my bad map reading. Once I was back on track I had no problems following the yellow arrows. I took the river route which was slippery and muddy - there was a spectacular thunderstorm last night with thunder that rolled continuously for about an hour. At Santiponce I happened upon the local police who told me the Arroyo dos Molinos is full after last night’s rain, making it necessary to walk the road to Guillena. So instead I’ve taken the last room at the hotel here. It’s still early to call it a day but I’m so out of shape and my foot is a bit sore. I think the rain has done me a favour!Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Love the truck stop for breakfast

    April 27, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Cafe con leche - with sugar. I’m told that it helps with muscle cramps.

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Guillena

    April 27, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After my breakfast with the very cheery gentlemen truckies in the industrial area, I walked the 11km to Guillena. The flooded Arroyo dos Molinos proved to be easy - used a broken wooden pallet to step across. Lots of mud though - sandals washed and drying. I am now holed up in the municipal albergue. No privacy at all in the showers but as I was the first to arrive I managed to get myself clean without embarrassing anyone.Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Breakfast in the industrial area

    April 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I can’t go past a truckies cafe! After a strenuous 2 km time for coffee. Besides, I know there are no other refueling possibilities between here and Castilblanco. It is countryside all the way.

    Lots of tiny lambs on the way out of town. And a picture of the albergue bedroom    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    A perfect days walking

    April 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today was simply stunning. Sunny, but with a cool breeze, firstly olive groves, then orange groves and then kilometres of beautiful path through a garden of wildflowers. Every few steps I’d stop and take another photo - I now have so many flower photos it is silly - mass deletion necessary!
    A few photos - steers with some serious horns, a sign that I’m sure features on everyone’s blog, and then - flowers.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    When you need a sweet red wine...

    April 29, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A beautiful walk through a national park, part of the Sierra Nevada Norte. Wide gravel path, soft green grass, masses of wild lavender in bloom, chestnut trees. A few clear streams to cross - waded through and my feet loved the icy cold water. Quite a cold wind blowing and a slight sprinkle of rain at one stage, but no need for the Altus. Then a real mule killer hill at the end. Half way up was a memorial to a pilgrim who “finished” his Camino, a good reminder to take it easy!
    And now I’ve arrived at Almadén de la Plata and have a room to myself.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Made it before the hail

    April 30, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    A lovely days walk again, through the Sierra Norte National Park, filled with wildflowers and lush green grass. The park does have private landholdings, strictly regulated, so they can graze their livestock and maintain buildings, but not add or change land use. Also a day of animals - I walked past sheep, horses, donkeys, cows, ducks, the black pigs from which is made belotta jamon, and saw hares, eagles and storks.Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    20km and still feeling good!

    May 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Set out from Al Real in crisp cold weather. The skies are quite spectacular in this weather - cold air streams must be interesting the cloud patterns. Again, another beautiful day of walking, for the first half of the walk along a quiet gravel road with a perfect walking surface. We crossed a few pretty streams, some via concrete fords covered in a few inches of water. My guess is that these are normally dry. Again, made it into Monasterio just as the rain started to spit. Tonight I am staying at a parochial albergue, very well set up and spotlessly clean.

    Photos today - setting out past the castle at Al Real, early morning with Romy from Germany, another castle along the way - and pastoral scenes. Those sheep are in sheep paradise! Plus a shot of the albergue.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Walking in the Air

    May 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today was a day that I’ll remember forever. A day of thin places. Moments of sheer joy. I walked most of the 22km alone - apart from an eagle soaring over me - and was absorbed by the beauty around me. It was a day that answered the question “Why do I keep coming back”.

    Again, a crisp cold day with heavenly blue skies and a lovely gravel path to walk on. About half way along the landscape changed from stone fences and trees (still trying to work out what they are) in small fields, to large open paddocks sewn with new wheat and other grain crops. Saw my first storks today, and enjoyed listening to the beak clattering on top the nests. Also saw my first poppies. The wildflowers are still spectacular.

    In Fuente de Cantos I am sharing a room in a “rural apartment hotel” with another Australian. A lovely old building, with the prettiest sunny garden, complete with pool and fountain. We decided against the municipal albergue in the old monastery on the basis of the weather - it’s freezing at night.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Sunburnt feet and olives

    May 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Last night I was too pooped to write up the blog, but for the record - Zafra is a dear little town with a couple of pretty squares, a nice medieval centre, a couple of interesting Mudejar churches (none open) and the Convent of Santa Clara. Where I purchased some delicious pastries from the nuns for my contribution to the shared pilgrims dinner in the albergué. And arranged for some prayers to be said. It can’t hurt!

    I am now in Villafranca de los Barros - having showered and washed my clothes like a good pilgrim, I have my feet up. It was not a long walk today, only 19km, but it felt longer. I left late, stopped at a bar (cafe) and lingered, so I finished up walking in the midday heat. And my feet are sunburnt - I really need to stop and apply sunscreen more often.

    As the stages on the Via de la Plata are reasonably set, we meet the same people each night, and everyone has become friends. A nice varied group with 3 Australians, some French, Belgium, English,German and Catalonian s they emphasis NOT Spanish!). We often have a pilgrims dinner with wine at night, with everyone contributing something.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Beautiful Mélide

    May 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wow! What a gem. No wonder it is a world heritage site.

    The day started early, leaving our rather primitive albergue before dawn. There was a wedding last night and the locals seem to celebrate by driving round all night and sounding their horns in the early hours of the morning, so we were all wakened by a 5am cacophony.

    It was a straight tramp along the highway and we reached the Roman bridge into Mélide by morning tea time - perfect for sightseeing. Aside from the magnificent arched bridge I also saw the Roman ampitheatre, the circus, the Alcazaba (fort), temple of Diana and the Roman and Visigoth museums (phew!)

    And a local exhibition of folkloric singing and dancing!

    Tonight I and two other women are sharing a room in a good hotel. Such luxury to have our own bathroom and be able to spread our gear around.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Storks and a walk through the Dehesa

    May 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    The stork season is well and truly here. So many flying overhead - I can’t tell if they are scouting for food or flying further north. But certainly every storks nest I pass, and there are many, is now occupied. The clattering of bills is such a joyous spring sound. I tried to take a photo of the nests and storks on top of the Roman aqueduct but you can’t really see the storks.

    Today’s walk was only 17km. A late start so I was glad it finished before the heat. I’m using my umbrella for shade. Wildflowers are still spectacular.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Visigoth church and...wildflowers

    May 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A lovely walk on a perfect surface in perfect weather - not cold but with enough cloud cover that my sunburnt feet were happy. About 17km from Aljucén to Alcuéscar, through national park. Once here I caught a taxi out to see Santa Lucía del Trampal - a Visigoth church that has survived since the 7th Century. Quite remarkable. Staying tonight in a very nice German hostal and we’ve just had a great meal. Tomorrow I’m promised hot churros at the local bar at 6am! What a way to start the day.Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    The joy of a washing machine.

    May 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Last night I stayed in Câceres in a nicely situated but rather dingy old hotel, tonight I’m in a spacious and bright modern apartment in Casar de Cáceres. With a washing machine, oh joy! I have on swimmers while every other bit of clothing goes through the wash.

    Cáceres was heaving with people as the city prepared for a 4 day Womad (world music) festival. Technical vehicles everywhere putting up stages and lights and hooking up amplifiers (and testing them). The contrast with the medieval buildings makes an interesting juxtaposition- particularly when one long van got stuck in a narrow street corner. The city centre is another world heritage site. Fabulous lunch at LaMinerva restaurant.

    Leaving Càceres this morning was a truly frightening experience as it meant walking for 3km along a very busy road with a narrow shoulder. Cars and trucks going full pelt. It won’t be long before some poor pilgrim has a sticky end. I was really glad to get off onto a side path and across the fields. First time I’ve felt truly frightened on this Camino.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler
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    Luxury albergue by the embalse

    May 11, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A 22 km walk today.

    Casar de Cáceres was an unexpectedly pleasant village - obviously great local pride as they had made a very welcoming green arcade into town - vine covered trellis walkway and shady trees. A good local bar and an excellent apartment I’d reserved to share with the two other Aussie girls walking. It had a little back courtyard garden and we invited our walking friends round for a shared dinner to say goodbye to Uli and Harold. They have been steadfast companions since Seville but Harold’s hip had become increasingly painful and he could not continue.

    Today’s walk was beautiful for the most part, across gently rolling hills along a gravel path, past wildflowers, horses, sheep and sleek cows, a Roman road (well preserved) then beside the dam with a narrow rather rocky up and down path and finally about 4 kilometres of hard unforgiving bitumen. Across two long bridges high above the water - Ian, I looked straight ahead and did not look down!

    My feet and legs felt the pounding of the last 4km on roadway and I had to stop to take out the extra 750mls of water from my pack. Knowing there were no water supplies anywhere along the route I’d put in extra. And I was grateful I had.

    This albergue is excellent - and I’m grateful it is open because it seems to have been closed for the last few years. It is rather in the middle of nowhere (no villages or towns for another 10km) but a nice site overlooking the Embalse (dam). Terrific hot showers, good rooms and facilities. I’m looking forward to dinner!    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    Motorbikes in Cañaveral

    May 12, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Maggie (Oz, remote area RN) and I rejected the road route taken by most of the other pilgrims this morning, and instead took the “alpista” path or Camino Naturale. A bit of a climb and then we were on a ridge for about 12km. Lovely. Went past the Ave high speed train line construction. There is a huge bridge that must have cost many millions of euros, with a tiny span in the middle still to be completed. We heard a story that it has been the same for the last three years, since the money ran out, but it looks like an active construction site to me, with good looking heavy construction vehicles parked on site. It’s Saturday so nothing is working (of course) so hard to tell what is happening. Ian, magnify the photo under and you will see the bridge in part.

    Then a rocky path down to this town, and a bar that seems to be the centre of a motorbike convention. The bar has a collection of miniature motorbikes and posters of races etc. I caused mirth with the BMW riders when suggesting they give me a lift to Santiago. But all nice guys (mature age!) and they love my attempts to speak Spanish - they reckon you should join me in Spain Ian, and they will find you a bike!

    Staying at another nice albergue here tonight. Most of the others are going further, but I know there is no accommodation left for 28km (I phoned ahead), and on top of the 12 already completed that is too much for me.

    Photos show the dam as we left it in the early morning light, and other assorted images from the day.    Read more

  • Jill HillCamino 2018Traveler

    There is always a fiesta...

    May 12, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    There is a fiesta here tonight - in the Playa Major (the place that looked dead this morning is now hopping). And tomorrow a Romería to the ermita this side of Grimaldo - followed by on-site food, grog, dancing etc. I might not get to Grimaldo!Read more

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