Camino Portuguese

Currently traveling
Starting from Lisbon
Currently traveling
  • Day27

    And the botafumeiro swings

    November 11, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    The end of the journey. Prayers for some very special people at the tomb of the Apostle. Candles lit. A hug for James. Mass attended - with A choir and the bishop presiding. How come the men get to wear glorious colourful costumes and the nuns are stuck in dreary black?

    And then the botafumeiro swings. Still the best show in town.
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  • Day26


    November 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The cathedral stands in all its glory and for the first time in years without scaffolding. Welcome to the city of pilgrims. I love this place!

    Met up with forum friends at Taberna do Bispo , my favourite tapas bar, did some shopping in the stylish boutiques (Annette bought an absolutely stunning dress), had coffee in the old world charm of Cafe Casino and then - the most amazing private tour of the newly restored Portico of Glory in the Cathedral.
    My thanks to Sybille Yates, who made it possible. Photographs are strictly forbidden, so I can’t show you, but the restoration has been beautifully done.

    Annette and I are staying in a very nice boutique hotel - right beside the cathedral. The good thing about this time of year is the drop in hotel prices. This place would normally be out of my budget.
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  • Day25

    In Galicia, it rains

    November 9, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    We started the day with a walk over the famous C15th bridge of Pontevedra. Cafe on leche and chocolate croissants. Then walking along pretty, soft, Galician paths in light rain. And heavy rain. Until we reached an open coffee shop, rather full of dispirited dripping pilgrims. Everyone hoping things would lighten up. But the longer we stayed the heavier the rain got. Then someone read the forecast - some ridiculous amount was forecast for the afternoon. Annette by this time showing signs of a sniffle. We got a taxi. To a very nice, very stylish, newly opened, warm and dry, pousada. Where they washed and dried our clothes - these things matter when walking in the rain!Read more

  • Day24


    November 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    If you have never experienced a Parador, you owe it to yourself to do it once in your life. We had walked from Redondela to Arcada. In the rain and wind. And no Arcadia - just pouring rain. Wet cold feet. So the Parador in Pontevedra was like arriving in heaven. Huge room, with sofa in antechamber, towels for a giant, canopy beds and a bathroom big enough in which to party. A late lunch of tempura calamari and lagostinos brocheta. Yum. Then to church.Read more

  • Day23

    Dear friend

    November 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today I met my friend Annette at Vigo airport and we walked from there to Redondela. Before arriving at our albergue we spied a restaurant crowded with people. It obviously needed us! So a delicious meal of stuffed calamari in its own ink, followed by a platter of desserts. Luckily we were very close to our destination along a peaceful stream. The sun was shining!Read more

  • Day22

    Pride goeth....

    November 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    This post is retrospective. After reading Kirsten Harley’s recent exploits I feel like a complete fraud, but there needs to be some explanation of the gap in my footprints.

    A wonderfully fulfilling, if wet, day yesterday, and a peaceful warm night in my little room over the restaurant, I set out once again in the rain. Altus on, umbrella up.

    Not far into the day, before the first coffee stop, I completely failed to see the pavement had a bite out of it (for garbage bins, I think) and wham! Down I went - twisting as I fell - landing hard on my right knee and arm. Two women came rushing to my aid and helped me up. No major damage but a knee that did not feel very happy. Certainly not to walk. So a taxi was called and carried me into Vigo where I spent a day resting, icing and elevating my knee.

    Dramatic views of Vigo.
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  • Day21

    Rain, rain, rain - and cold!

    November 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    It was Altus on, head down, and rev up the walking machine! Past gun turrets pointing out to sea (too far away for photos) and the lovely town of Baiona with its fortress castle - invaders from the sea will be repelled! Then a pretty C15th bridge and the beachside suburbs of Vigo. Just as I’d had enough (and it was teeming - rains simply pouring off me) I saw a restaurant with a fire going inside - and “habitaciones” upstairs. What a find, what relief. Ate the most wonderful meal of soup (with grelos - the local green vegetable, and potatoes) followed by mariscos, coffee and oruja de hierbas (herb flavoured fire water). I then staggered upstairs to my cosy warm room, with underfloor heating. And watched Netflix as the rain continues to pour down.Read more

  • Day20

    Wild weather walking

    November 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    A big walk today, trying to stay ahead of the rain forecast for the rest of the week. I took the route around the sea and it was spectacular - huge waves rolling in from the Atlantic. Saw a few surfboard riders braving the swells. I’d stayed in a rather weird hotel the night before - very cheap and I know why!Read more

  • Day19

    They do colours in Spain too

    November 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Loved the town of A Guarda. Houses tumbling down to the port and beach, obvious pride in the town, lively residents. Stayed in the municipal albergue and it was great - clean and with all the facilities a pilgrim needs, plus good company. One fellow, a Hungarian boy, was walking back from Santiago de Compostela after finishing walking the Norte. He’s obviously very fit, and had covered over 40km that day - all the way from Vigo. He put away a very large bowl of pasta!
    I walked into a church after landing on Spanish soul, and there was no doubt about the country! Massive heavy decorative overload in silver and gold.
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  • Day18

    Last day in Portugal

    November 2, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Walking well and enjoyably. Today I had an absolute feast of white figs, three trees in a row on waste land beside a railway track. Who could resist? Let’s hope my tummy copes! For my last day in Portugal I was back beside the sea again.Read more