Mona Lisa Smile

We’re in Jaisalmer and staying in a hotel within the walls of the Fort for the next two days until we begin the Run. The hotel is an old residence built in 1400 and the descendants of the original owners are still living here and are managing the hotel.

Jaisalmer Fort is situated in the city of Jaisalmer, in the north western Indian state of Rajasthan. It is believed to be one of the very few "living forts" in the world as nearly one fourth of the old city's population still resides within the fort. For the better part of its 860-year history, the fort was the city of Jaisalmer. The first settlements outside the fort walls, to accommodate the growing population of Jaisalmer, are said to have come up in the 17th century.

This place is incredible. It is amazing that 28,000 people are living in this ancient structure, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The only vehicles allowed in here are motorcycles and their drivers bomb around through tiny narrow streets honking their horns and literally club into you if you don’t get out of the way.

The lobby of this hotel is a testament to its history. The photos of the ancestors are on the walls. They have a little temple in the lobby where they leave daily offerings.

The most interesting thing we experienced when we checked in was that the proprietor, the great great great grandson of one of the original owners, was really proud of the fact that he had two Mona Lisa portraits in his lobby. The original one (a copy, obviously) and her Indian cousin.

The ancient world still lives on here.Read more