El Camino de Santiago

July - August 2023
A 18-day adventure by Juan2go Read more
  • 14footprints
  • 2countries
  • 18days
  • 247photos
  • 10videos
  • 643miles
  • 407miles
  • 77miles
  • Day 2

    Arrived in Madrid

    August 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    We arrived in Madrid this morning with little sleep. Wow, the euro’s exchange rate is about 20% up charge. We ventured in an Uber ride to the train station in an attempt to get the early train to Pamplona but arrived 5 minutes too late. Well, we lost the fair but gained on the exchange rate near Atocha train station. So far braking even.. but behind schedule. We are calling ahead to the Albergue reservations in SJPP for late arrival. We may miss daylight..Read more

  • Day 2

    Arrived at SJPP

    August 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    St Jean Pie de Port 8/1/2023
    Arrived at SJPP around 7:05pm. It is a beautiful town along the Nive river and the French country side. During the commute, the taxi driver explained all about the closed community between the border towns in the Basque region. The town was packed with peregrines from all over the world. I have quickly realized to enable my 4x4 legs gear. There was little room for turning in the wrong direction or you would pay the steep hill price.

    We arrived to the Belaire albergue later than anticipated and dinner had already started. Our host Joseph, a Spaniard, introduced us to the group in 4 different languages (English, French, Italian and Spanish) to the 14 guests already at the table. Five minutes later the last couple arrived from California. The came via train from Paris. We all enjoyed a 4 course vegan meal and wine and retired to our respective rooms. The jet lag didn’t help so I decided to write at 3:30am local time. However, I didn’t post due to not having internet in France.
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  • Day 3

    From St Jean Pie de Port to Roncesvalles

    August 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    From SJPP to Roncesvalle 08/02/2023
    The day started with 5 hours of sleep. We had breakfast at the Belaire, then pickup our Compostela passport, and received our first stamp. We then proceed down hill to the El Peregrine Shop were I bought my hiking poles. We wished we could have spent another day at SJPP however, we have a tight schedule and we could use a couple of days for recovery if needed later on.

    It was a beautiful sunny morning. We headed down the street through the port of of Notre Dame crossing the pinterest Nive river through la puerta de España. We the missed the first turn and walk about a kilometer before realizing no one was following us. We ask for directions using smoke signals and got a response back in French. Returned back to town and met the horrific hill the we have just laughed about. It was an attitude adjustment. And the fun began. I cannot even explain the views. We climb, climb and more climbing to the top of something the it is hard to explain however my 360 cámara captured some of those experiences and I will soon be publishing those videos.

    The climb was hard, and long (6 hours) and steady. From time to times we had a flat to make us believed that were at the top, but to our disappointment, there was another mountain to climb. We finally reached the cross ( you will now when you get there if you ever try this). I had some beautiful 360 videos with the herd of sheep, the horses and cows and the vultures flying over us, where I told the bird that I was not dead yet.

    The descend to Roncesvalles was good and manageabled until we reach the converging of Valcarlos route and the Napoleon’s route which we took. The Valcarlos route was the less challenging route but we didn’t come here for that but to conquer the Pyrenees. :0. At this point I had enough energy to role down the hill. We were in the middle of the clouds and the fog was very dense. We reach sharp left turn where the 2 caminos merged but by accident we took the turn they explicitly said not to take. It was the suicidal down hill 35-40 degrees 8 kilometers rocky down hill descend route where a few people has perished. Not even a kilometer down hill into it, my legs were shaking so hard I couldn’t stand any longer with my 18 pounds plus water weight on my back. We sat on a rock for 5 minutes to rest. I suggested to hide the bag and to come the next day for it. It was getting dark then my son Nick loaded my backpack on his back and his backpack in the front and carried them all the way down to Roncesvalles. I was done. He said we are 7 kilometers away, let’s finish this dad. We then passed the rocky section and continue through the dark forest. It was cold and it had began to rain. We drop packs and lay down to rest. Here comes the Hungarian and his 66 year old father and sat with us to rest. There wasn’t a wining medals at the end but a nice shower and a bed. We kept walking down hill for a few more kilometers until we reached Roncesvalles. I believed we were the last exhausted peregrinos for the night. In summary, this section of El Camino de Santiago is for the young and the young at heart that has trained and prepared for the brutal journey.
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  • Day 4

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    August 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri 08/03/2023
    This was the first day down hill path from the Pyrenees. The night before we had made our minds to spent another day to recover from the first brutal day however we soon realizing we were the very few staying behind, we decided to covered our packs and headed out under a soaking rain and 50 degrees temperature. We started walking down the hill through the forest with a nice terrain for fast walking, however that didn’t last long.
    One third of the way we stopped in the village of Espinal. The café attendant has just immigrated to Spain from Columbia SA, and this young man knew how to cook. We ordered a pasta Bayonese and it was delicious. There we meet a French family (Dad, 22 years old daughter and her boyfriend) that were laying camp nearby. They were so helpful to us that we picked up there food bill on our way out. One kilometer up the hill we heard someone calling and it was the french girl running towards us. She gave us a special handmade gift/pendant. We talked for a few minutes, took some pictures with her and continued up the hill until the next village. While resting flat in the middle of the road in this tiny village we were met by this friendly poodle dog. We continued walking nonstop for 4 more hours. Once we reached the village of Erro, the cliffs turned very sharp, and dangerously rocky, however in retrospect, there was nothing like the suicidal hill the day before.

    We reached Zubiri at 7:00pm and then started looking for a place to stay. We were so bitten up that we couldn’t even move one more step. After a shower, and breaking and desinfecting the blisters we wore our sandals and walked another half a kilometer to a restaurant to eat and back to our room to sleep. However we were so tired that we didn’t get to sleep until 3:00am.
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  • Day 5

    Zubiri to Pamplona Spain

    August 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Zubiri to Pamplona 08/04/2023
    At this point, every muscle of my body hurts. Even thinking hurts. After 4 hours of sleep, we were back on the trail at 7:30am for another 6 hours walk to Pamplona. My feet and knees are swelling considerably and Nick has some mega blisters. I have a couple of them but but manageable for the most part, at least nothing has become infected. We ventured out hoping we will get something to eat in the next village like we have done before but we realized later that was a mistake.

    As we were hitting the path, we passed this tall mystical person, he seems to be a Priest, he had a green rain cover with a cross and an emblem/patch attached to the rain coat, square glasses, had not shaved in a few days like me. He was slow moving but steady and consistent.

    Time move fast or slow in El Camino but you have to keep walking and thinking and solving all the world problems, a few “Hail Mary” for inspiration are required. El Camino will hit you hard regardless your physical condition. These was the third 16 miles day.

    After a very long climb through some tall grasses, we got to the top of the hill and I looked backwards and saw this mystical man looking down and moving forward. I waved at him to call his attention. We saw this mystic person 3 or 4 times again along the way. Somehow he kept catching up with us. He was a tank moving through with nothing that would stop him.

    We walked 6 kilometers and found someone trying to communicate with a local elderly man about a place to eat, I clearly understood what the man was saying and translated in English to the Croatian couple. He was saying all these villages from here to Pamplona are small of about 100 residents and there are no food. At that point we looked at each other and said let’s keep pushing forward. It was raining and cold but was better than having the sun on your backs. I had 1.5 liter’s of water and Nick had two. In our minds that was enough to make it to Pamplona.

    Later we met another gentleman Doctors Cesar, an anesthesiologist from El Paso Texas, an Israeli couple, the two French girls, the 3 old ladies from Spain, 4 super heroes in to one young man that was killing it, 5 horses , six cows and many other peregrines walking along the path. I may be composing a new Christmas song. Get it? El Camino brings people from all over the world but definitely they walk a lot more in their daily lives than we do in the USA.

    We agreed that all the kilometer’s marking along the path are incorrect. 😎😎 Just a way to said you will get there. There in no easy pass to Pamplona, it is all down hill “NOT” but walking 16 miles a day is brutal regardless. We reached Pamplona by 1:30 pm local time.
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  • Day 5

    Pamplona

    August 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    Pamplona Spain 08/04/2023
    We are surprised of the cost of food so far. We had a 3 course meal with a large bottle of water and two bottles of wine for 41 euros together. You will not find that in Texas or perhaps Mississippi for the matter.

    We are at a boutique historic hotel in “El Casco antiguo de Pamplona” the old historic center of Pamplona. It reminds me El Viejo San Juan in Puerto Rico. Pebble stone narrow streets with shops and tons of tapas bars and restaurants and tons of people.

    The church bells rings on the hours is a common sound in Pamplona. Is like all are coordinated 30 seconds apart and you hear the bells ringing for almost 5 minutes nonstop.

    We visited the pharmacy and bought some medicine to treat Nick’s feet blisters and then we took a short walk to the busy area where the tapas and other restaurants were located. We ran into the Canadian couple who we met in the last water break before the pick of the Pyrenees and later through the suicidal hill drop where I almost killed myself. We talked for a bit and follow their recommendations for dinner.

    Everyone that suffered through El Camino has been very kind and friendly. Every time you see each others is a huge and a kiss in both cheeks like you have known them for ever.. In a way, it is sad that we may not see them ever again but their memories remain of a shared portion of “El Camino de Santiago” Francés..

    Live goes on. Tomorrow all the friends we have made along the way (the British father and son, as the Hungarian also father and son, the Italian family, the Croatian couple, the Canadian couple, the three American girls, Helen the British pink shirt lady, the tow French girls, the Priest, the French family, the cyclists Spaniard couple and many more wonderful people the we have met are moving on to their next phase of El Camino de Santiago. Some are going all the way to Santiago de Compostela and others just through their custom respective routes.

    This the end of our first phase of El Camino. So far we have walked 49 total miles. The second phase is the recovery phase by staying an extra day in Pamplona. We will commute to Leon and then Triacastela where the next 79 miles 10 days challenge awaits..
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  • Day 7

    Driving across northern Spain

    August 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We started the phase 2 of our trip resting and recovering from the blister and muscle that we didn’t know we had. Going downhill is draining and for the most part, El Camino downhill sections are rocky, with sharp incline and very long.

    La Ciudadela in Pamplona is very charming and beautiful. It seems to me that people are running on a slower clock and it takes a few days to adjust to that lifestyle.

    A lesson learn is to make sure you are flexible with your schedule at least when vacationing in Spain during the month of august. For the most part the entire European Union is on vacation during this time. For us, we lost a day due to no train availability to move a cross northern Spain. I had to spent $50 on an expedited international driver license so we could rent a car. There were no cars available on Sunday other than a cargo van.

    So we ventured on a Toyota cargo van. 75€ in diesel and rolled out of Pamplona around 11:30am. On our first stop we immediately realized we didn’t know how to engage the van in reverse. So while I drove Nick was watching YouTube videos until we figured it out. Wow, that was a headache.

    We reached Leon by 2:30pm and had lunch and visited the cathedral the center of town. We then continued to Sarria since the Lugo’s car rental office would be closed.

    It was a bit challenging with a manual transmission cargo van with limited side vision when goin in reverse. In these small towns, do not trust google maps that’s all i am going to say. We had a delicious dinner and spent the night at a hotel in Sarria. We started to realize the limited availability of hotels.
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  • Day 8

    Lugo / Sarria

    August 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We reached Sarria Sunday evening. We easily found a hotel an went and had dinner. Restaurants do not open for business until 8:00pm, so be ready to eat late in Spain.

    The next day we were still dealing with blisters so decided to spend another night in Sarria. We were informed that there wasn’t a room available so we moved to the Alfonso Noveno hotel. We dropped off our bags and then drove 30 minutes to the city of Lugo to return the rental vehicle. Lugo city center is a beautiful old city built by the Romans and it is sorounded by this tall stone walls. We walk through the main gate an wondered around the city. Walked into El Camino de Pedro coffee shop and was helped by the owner, a woman from Honduras who had immigrated to Spain 15 years ago. We had some interesting conversations with her about her own journey.

    We walked around the city and over the Roman’s walls were we had the opportunity to walk through ancient history.

    After a 30 minutes buss ride, we were back to Sarria. Nick wanted to eat pasta that night so we visited a very charming restaurant called ”Roma 1930”. Instead of pasta, we end up sharing the biggest T-Bone stake in our lives. There, we were introduced to “Chupitos”, a local liquor made of grasses of coffee. We had two of each and we were set for the night. Of course we had to walk a kilometer to get to the hotel 🥹
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  • Day 9

    Sarria to Puertomarin

    August 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Is early in the morning and we feel we were the last leaving Sarria today we soon got into our marching rhythm and three miles into it we stated passing people of all ages and from all over the world. You knew everyone had a smile in the faces and politely we told each othe “Buen Camino” as we passed by. Our first phase of El Camino was at time lonely due to the fact the you were crazy or somehow crazy to go walking across the Pyrenees.

    Here, Sarria is the minimum distance to be able to acquire the Compostela certificate. Specially in august where everyone in EU are on vacation. I have never seen a stranger, we met people the we saw in Lugo, at the many restaurants in Sarria and on the street of this small town.

    As we walked we saw this all lady walking up hill she answered back is whispering sound “ Buen Camino”. Sarria to Puertomarin was a difficult section since we have no fully recovered from the Pyrenees. We may not recover at all since we continue to pile up more salt to the injuries..

    We have made so many notes in the trip to write a few books. Will see..
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  • Day 10

    Puertomarin to Palas del Rei

    August 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Nick has been concerned about my attitude “El Camino will provide”. So he is now taking on calling hotels, Pensiones, Albergues and anything in between. He do not want to sleep under the stars. This week we got caught with a wave of people, and families from all over the world that we have met making the pilgrimage this week. Hence, the availability of rooms near the path of El Camino are all booked. We are trying to minimize the colateral walking. Some Pensiones and Hotels located off the path offer transportation where they get you and bring you back to El Camino trail.

    We walked for 9.5 hours today. We are a set of broken bones held together by our commitment to finish El Camino de Santiago. This route is not difficult on a fresh body, but miles and miles are beginning to accumulate. The say that the body will adjust, we are waiting for the to happen.

    I have been limping for a while from pain in the bottom of my feet and my left hip is beginning to tell me that is there.. My main concern is the coughing that is progressing. I am having some losenges(whatever spells) to help with the cough. Nick’s knees are not in good shape. Today, a group of Spaniard ladies, one of them offered to help. She reached behind the knee and two/three fingers down and Nick jumped. She then started massaging the area and it offered relief for about 10 minutes, but we’re about two miles away. So he sucked it all up and continued. We have a few tough day in front of us but we are determined…
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