Kenya
Marsabit

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    • Day 399

      Chalbi Desert

      January 19, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 42 °C

      The night was unexpectedly cold and windy and I start with a sour throat. After descending from Marsabit down to around 500 m I choose an alternative, rarely used track parallel to the main road C82 which gives me additional 45 km of Chalbi Desert beauties. It is around three weeks after the last rains and I still encounter 2-3 muddy but short sections. Speeding though with 60-80 kph works well but I do not want to know how it would look like in fresh mud here in the middle of nowhere. Temperatures rise up to 42 °C. In the middle of the desert my air condition stops working. Haha! The evening in Kalacha is dry, hot and windy. I hoped for a calm evening but at the campsite I am disturbed by three different parties all coming to me and asking for money. School children, a drunk "head of security". One other guy stays the whole evening, pretends to be my best friend and each 20 minutes he invents a new story why I should support him. In the end we discuss over 100-1000 $ in order to support him finishing his studies. Sure, just take my soul.Read more

    • Day 398

      Mars? A bit!

      January 18, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Kaisut Desert or wherever I have been is at around 500 m above sea level. I gradually climb to Marsabit on 1300 m and expect a stressful, crazy, ugly town, being located so close to the border. But no! I am damn surprised to find a very calm city with a peaceful atmosphere. And the people look totally different! Wahoo, my small culture shock compared to the last days. And this just happened within one third of a day. Friendly they are, communicative and discreet. I have to digest this day.

      Mount Marsabit has been a Volcano once. Just look on the aerial/stellite images. This might also explain how these big dark rocks came to Kisut Plateau ;)
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    • Day 400

      Oasis

      January 20, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      Before fleeing from this dry heat I pay a visit to Father Antony in the church, a German who came here several years ago and who also is a passionate overlander. He shipped his Land Rover to Namibia some 5 years ago and travelled all the way here using a similar route as mine. Freya, his German helping hand, comes here for 15 years mostly for three months during European winter and is currently preparing cinnamon rolls for some guests who will arrive in the evening. I have a very nice chat with her and learn a lot about the local mentality and about their way dealing with the people. They send me a few km back from Kalacha to the oasis with a natural spring and abandoned lodge which still has water in the pool. I ignored that spot yesterday because it was just full of camels and I did not see anything. This would have been the better camping spot for sure! My aircon works again. I think it just does not like the low altitude and desert heat :pRead more

    • Day 401

      German technology

      January 21, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      Balesa is not on my paper map but I find a lunch (with fresh mango juice!) and a well-engineered solar power plant there which relies mostly on German technology. A friendly technician approaches me and proudly presents the installation and explains everything. A German organisation introduced this experiment here, trained local staff and “wanted to see how it performs”. Now it has been transferred to Kenya Power and the villagers can buy power tokens via their phone. It is competing against Chinese technology in Dukana. At night only 5 % of the battery capacity is drained nowadys. Since 2018 the backup generator was used for maintenance work only. On his smartphone he shows me all statistics in nice graphs. Back in Germany I know one sauna owner who monitors his garden sauna the very same way ;-)Read more

    • Day 407

      Mount Kulal

      January 27, 2021 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      The omnipresent heat pushes me up to Gatab on Mount Kulal, an old, eroded volcano overgrown with primary forest and labelled a biosphere reserve by humans. I am curious about how this is managed and stay two nights at the guest house of the African Inland Church with a beautiful grassy lawn and in theory a view down to Loiyangalani and Lake Turkana, would there not be this very dense dust in the air. 1000 KES (7,50 EUR) conservancy fee and another 1000 for a local guide are mandatory in order to explore the forest. I could have done a fully-day’s hike up the summit but I am lazy and need also time for inner piece and nothingdoing. Half a day must be enough and so Shukri the guide picks me up in the morning. The forest is different, not as dense as expected but we manage to find huge old trees where I play Tarzan on the lianas. There are people living around the slopes of the mountain and the conservation activities try to cope with the challenge of respecting the demands of both the natives and the pristine nature. We find some grassy patches where successful re-forestation has been achieved and the new seedlings are protected against the grazing cattle which in theory is not allowed to be here. Shukri documents that with his phone and will report the violation to the community chiefs. Also logging is supposed to be controlled. We hear Baboons fighting about a fig tree. By incident I discover a super-tiny Kulal helmeted chameleon (endemic!) just next to our path on a twig where we pause for a second. Two seconds later another, slightly bigger just haft a metre away! Shukri is very excited because these are normally difficult to spot and he loves chameleons! Later he shows me also the Kulal White-eye, a tiny also endemic bird. Whatever resides up here must be endemic because migrating down from this mountain will lead to instant dustification of any bio-mass.

      Shukri tells me that he has some orphan kids around his place and is searching for patrons to sponsor their school fees. This is interesting considering the fact that one day ago I met Jane in Loiyangalani who distributes scholarships to poor kids. I connect both of them and hope for the best. Primary school – the first 8 years – is very cheap in Kenya because only books, the uniform and peanuts have to be provided. Pushing a teenager through 4 years of secondary school is more costly but still pretty not expensive for Mzungus. Shukri estimates around 60.000 KES (450 EUR) for the first year and 30.000 KES for each subsequent year. This would give a kid the opportunity to much easier find a job and be able to care for her-/himself. So, if anybody is interested in investing some of his money into such activities, I can create a direct link to these honest and reliable persons in order to offer a transparent procedure without any dubious, intermediate organisations.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Marsabit, Marsabit District, Q1323683

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