A semi-serious adventure

huhtikuuta - lokakuuta 2015
  • Kim and Alex
186-päiväinen seikkaillu — Kim and Lue lisää
  • Kim and Alex

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  • Kiwi Exp. - Wellington to Taupo

    9. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    Although the forecast reported that the weather in Taupo was fine, it was cold and wet in Wellington and would get progressively worse as we ventured further North. Uncharacteristically the hills surrounding Wellington had received a snow fall overnight, much to the bemusement of adults and excitement of children. It appears that New Zealand is experiencing a particularly cold winter so far and freshly sheared sheep tip toed through frosted pastures. Soon we entered a dull white scenery where clouds cloaked the sky and snow coated the ground. Black cattle wandered, their breath steaming on the air, to create a mono landscape.

    The weather caused the Desert Road, which squeezes between the Tongariro National Park and the Kaimanawa Forest Park, to close forcing us to detour around the Tongariro National Park. As we drove through the wild landscape the snow receded and the sun appeared above us. We passed a collection of old military buildings used until the early 1970s for New Zealand’s program of conscription. Rather than abandon the buildings after conscription ceased, under the promotion of Sir Edmund Hilary, they and many others around the country were converted to accommodate school trips so children could experience the New Zealand countryside and its nature. Primary and secondary schoolchildren across New Zealand will attend these camps 2-3 times during their education and participate in a range of outdoor activities.

    When we stopped at a lookout above Lake Taupo the temperature remained cold but the skies were clearing to expose the sun, which threw its light across the waters, reflecting the bright blue colour back into the atmosphere. Gone was the snow, replaced by the lush green of forests and fields, nurtured by winter rains.

    On our way into Taupo we booked ourselves onto an expedition of the Tongariro Crossing. This is considered one of the most popular one day hikes in New Zealand, being 20km one way and taking 6-8 hours to complete. We had wanted to do this when we were last in Taupo but had been prevented by severe weather closing the trail. Whilst snow showers and high winds closed it today and tomorrow, the forecast indicates that it could be safe to traverse on Saturday. However we will be unable to confirm if the expedition will go ahead until after 2:00pm tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
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  • Taupo

    10. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today centred around waiting to find out if we would be able to undertake the Tongariro Crossing or not. When we made the provisional booking yesterday we heard that after several days of it being closed by poor weather, the forecast for the weekend looked, quote 'real good'. So it was with anticipation that we waited, which turned into a restlessness that we could not abate as we did not want to exert ourselves by going out of Taupo before a potential 20km hike over alpine conditions the following day. Announcements for the crossings are at 2:00pm the day before so when the time came around we telephoned through to see what the verdict was.

    Unfortunately despite clear skies and sunshine, snow showers and strong winds increased the avalanche risk to an extent that it was unsafe and the crossing for Saturday was cancelled. It was frustrating to wait for disappointing news, compounded by the fact that realistically we had run out of time left to wait a further day on the chance that the crossing would be open on Sunday. However we cannot complain as we have had excellent luck with the weather and activities that are dependent on it during our time in wintery New Zealand.

    Determined to still undertake a day's hike we spent the remainder of the afternoon formulating a Plan B for tomorrow. This still involves attempting to hike 20km but around the coastline of Lake Taupo rather than through the Tongariro National Park.
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  • Taupo

    11. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Frost coated windscreens and pathways as we stepped out into the morning. Our breath fumed on the air and the thermometer read -1. Yet the sky was without a cloud and the sun gave a weak warmth to our skin. As we could not undertake the Tongariro Crossing we chose instead 'The Lions Walk', a 20km round-trip trail along the coastline of Lake Taupo southward to Five Mile Bay.

    Joggers, cyclists and dog walkers passed us on the trail as the lake lapped at its shores. Steam rose off the wake as the cold water found the thermal springs beneath the sands. Such was the warmth generated by this that we saw children paddling in the shallows. Black swans with brash red beaks graced the small coves as ducks and small birds sought out food. Willows hung their empty branches as if seeking reflection from below.

    In the distance, laden with a cream of snow, stood the peaks of Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe. Looking out across the vast expanse of the lake we couldn't help but wish that we were there instead. However the calm of the coastline with the slow warmth of the sun gave an illusion to the true conditions of the crossing. The last weather forecast we saw showed a wind chill of -15, only rising to -10 by the afternoon.

    Stopping for a short lunch at Five Mile Bay we were soon on our way back to Taupo, which was then hidden from view by a small peninsula of land. On the return we walked into the face of the sun, which sparkled its reflection on the lake. Our legs ached and our bodies sore when we finally returned to the start of the trail. We completed it in under 5 hours, which included breaks. We may not have experienced the epic landscape of the Tongariro Crossing but we at least experienced something of the physical effort required by covering a similar distance in such a time.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Taupo to Rotorua

    12. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Last night we caught up with Jamie and Abi over beers. They had arrived in Taupo on their way back North after we left them in Queenstown a week ago. They like us, had to be back in Auckland for their flight out of New Zealand so we will again travel together until then. We had left them drinking last night so saw them worse for wear this morning on the bus. Fortunately for everyone it was only an hour's drive from Taupo to Rotorua so by mid-morning we found ourselves checked into our hostel.

    Due to staying in the Maori village on our travel southward we had not had the chance to explore Rotorua. However as described in our previous posts, the area is renowned for its geothermal activity, which amongst many things causes the air around the town to stink of eggs. This is good if you want to get away with a cheeky trouser cough on the bus.

    With our bodies weary from yesterday's hike we chose to visit 'Hell's Gate', where for nearly 800 years the local Maori have bathed, relaxed and healed in the area's unique geothermal muds and acidic sulphurous pools.

    After hiring towels and swim gear (we had learnt that the mud could discolour and cause your own to stink of sulphur even after washing) we tentatively submerged ourselves into the warm grey brown soup of the mud pools. Scrapping the mud from the base of the pool we coated our skin until it hardened and cracked in the shining sun above us. Although we had arrived layered in hats and coats, we felt very warm in the pools with just our swimwear. You can debate the actual healing qualities but it was fun to play in the mud.

    Afterwards we showered off the mud and lounged in 40 degree spa pools where the steam wisped off the surface. Behind lay the geothermal park itself and you could not have been closer to the sources of the pools we were bathing in. We sat simmering until our fingers pruned and the heat made us drowsy. After a further shower to rinse off the sulphur and wake up, we returned to our hostel in an almost dream-like state as the aches we had felt were greatly diminished.

    After dinner we sat with the hostel owner, Gerard, and talked about many things, including Trek America, as he drove for them during the 1980s. Having travelled extensively and being a natural story teller meant time with Gerard flew by quickly and left us wishing that we could stay longer.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Rotorua to Auckland

    13. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Wrapped up against the morning chill we left our brilliant hostel and its owners to board our final bus back to Auckland. Driving through relatively flat green farming country, it was a contrast to the white mountainous landscapes we have become accustomed to during our time on the South Island. Slowly making our way through the traffic into Auckland reminded us of how busy it was compared to the rest of the country, even the capital Wellington. One third of the country's entire population is condensed into the city and its suburbs.

    Driving through the city streets we saw many people wrapped up against the cold but for us it was comparatively warm to what we had experienced over the previous weeks. It was evocative of our great experiences in New Zealand to be back at our old hostel and pass places where we had first met Pierrick, Jamie and Abi.

    As it was Jamie and Abi's last night in New Zealand before heading home to Manchester we went out for dinner at Monsoon Poon where we ate Vietnamese summer rolls, Thai jumbo prawns, Indian butter chicken and Nasi Goreng (think Indonesian paella), all washed down with beer and cocktails. It might not have been Kiwi cuisine but it was a great way to celebrate the end of our adventure together as well as a taster of South Asian cuisine to come.
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  • Auckland

    14. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We met Jamie and Abi for breakfast at the Ugly Bagel for awesome wood fired bagels that were made fresh before our eyes. A thick bright pink layer of salmon folded across a lick of cream cheese atop a warm sesame seed bun, all dressed in capers, dill and onion. The taste lingered in our mouths as we ate in front of an open fire. Office workers came and went as we reminisced on our time together in New Zealand and Jamie and Abi prepared themselves for their long journey home.

    After saying our final goodbyes we wandered into the city to collect our free Kiwi Experience t-shirts from their office. Whilst there we met Kane, our affable and knowledgable driver, who took us down the west coast of the South Island, what now seems, months ago. It was great to catch up and we came away basking in the memories of our own 'kiwi experience'.

    The wind threw itself around us, scattering brown dead leaves to scratch their way across the pavement, as we walked through wintery scenes along Queens Street. Children span on an open air ice rink whilst musicians danced in front of life size models of polar bears. When darkness descends and the decorative lights twinkle you could be forgiven for mistaking it for a festive season.

    As afternoon turned to evening the nostalgia of New Zealand began to slowly give way to the anticipation for Australia. Excitement brought a flurry of adrenaline as bags were emptied and reorganised, decisions made on what to keep and what to donate and flights and tick boxes checked. The next adventure awaited.
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  • More signs...

    14. heinäkuuta 2015, Uusi Seelanti ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Here are some more signs that have caught our eyes, this time through New Zealand...

  • Auckland to Sydney

    15. heinäkuuta 2015, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    The Auckland sky was locked in resolute clouds as we waited patiently for our plane to take us to Sydney.

    We flew with Emirates, a choice made by a coincidence of timing and conditions that fit our budget when our itinerary went through STA Travel's computers 9 months ago. Yet what a choice it turned out to be.

    Whilst some of you will have experienced or perhaps even be accustomed to the kind of service that Emirates offer even its Donkey Class customers, we were not. After zipping through check-in early and boarding an on-time plane, we sat down in large comfortable seats and a warm scented face towel. Greeted with smiles we dined on a 3-4 course dinner and watched the latest films. When the lights dimmed, stars shone on the ceiling and we couldn't get believe what we were receiving for a 3 1/2 hour flight. As we descended into Sydney airport we watched the plane touch down onto the runway by a camera mounted on the nose of the plane.

    Having arrived in previous destinations very late at night and/or very jet lagged it was novel to feel fairly refreshed. It didn't all go according to plan however as when we used the self-service passport machines, they did not consider Alex's face matched his passport (maybe the hair) so he had to join a long queue of other passport rejects. We were prepared for Australia's tough bio-security but it turned out to be the woman in front of us who was the biggest challenge. After being in a long line with lots of signs alerting her to be prepared, she was still on her mobile and having to search for her documents when she got to this section whilst the rest of us queued behind. The security officer's face was classic as he gave a knowing look to his colleague.

    We arrived at our hostel under the driving skills and humour of shuttle bus driver Shane. He told us that he showed his son an AUS$5 note, which has the image of the Queen on it and asked who this was. His son replied 'Grandma'. Shane explained 'Grandma' happened to look a lot like the Queen but he didn't mention his son's age, hopefully it's not 17.
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  • Sydney

    16. heinäkuuta 2015, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    A new city and country welcomed us to start the day but rain slapped against our raincoats and ricocheted off the pavement as we ventured outside for breakfast. Thunder rolled off the sky’s anvil as an open fire pricked at our skin and hot banana porridge kept hunger at bay.

    Yet it was not long before the sun's chariot charged to scatter the angry clouds. Its light refracted on the window onto our faces, calling us outside. We crossed tree lined streets with English names, passing brick terraces with metal verandas whilst glazed condos and office blocks looked over us. Palms, a reminder of warmer times, hung their broad leaves in a melancholy nod to passers-by.

    The clock tower of the city’s central railway station guided us toward the Oz Experience office, where we confirmed bookings for our upcoming journey north to Cairns. Before this lay Belmore Park, its edges lined by the worn out colour of shanty town tents, an unavoidable reminder of the city’s homelessness and a stark contrast to the towers of big business surrounding it.

    Northward in Hyde Park we came across the haunting ANZAC memorial, which invited ‘silence to be your contribution’. The sun bleached the art deco windows whilst the domed ceiling carried thousands of stars. Steps led down to a reflection pool lined by winter bare trees whose bark is scarred with a myriad of graffiti. Along the avenue Hills Figs lay thick intertwining roots into the soft rain nourished grass, past which lines of uniformed school children signalled the time of day.

    The weather and a search for bearings let time slip away. As the light faded we planned our next moves for exploring the city from tomorrow.
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  • Sydney

    17. heinäkuuta 2015, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    We stirred to the sound of a persistent rain rattling against our bedroom window as the dawn light barely made its way in through the gap in the curtains. The streets were awash as we breakfasted and we contemplated how to spend our day without getting drenched.

    Taking our chances we skirted under dripping facades and around gathering puddles to get to the New South Wales Art Gallery. Leaving our dripping jackets in the cloakroom we wandered through galleries of classical portraits, colourful modern art, political statements and exhibits from Asia. Most of what we saw was interesting and informative but at times, particularly with the most contemporary art, it felt self-important. Perhaps we are not the ‘right’ audience for this? It made us smile when in one exhibit room, where balloons meant to symbolise the passage of time were scattered on the floor. The exhibit's one audience member was a young girl whose only interest was to play with the balloons. To us this symbolised, 'up yours pretentious art, I want to play with balloons!'

    Through the windows we saw the rain cease and the clouds crack open to let through patches of blue sky. We eagerly left the gallery to walk through the ordered flora of the Royal Botanical Gardens. The arched roofs of the iconic Sydney Opera House were instantly recognisable through the garden's trees as we meandered along the pathways. Once the opera house was before us, we felt as if we stood before a cathedral with its tall arches and faces of glass that lit up when the sun briefly dared to show its face. Across the bay, another icon, the Sydney Harbour Bridge, stood in steel and stone, to watch the many ferries pass before its broad body.

    We walked along the quay and through the traffic of people around the ferry terminals before entering the historic ‘Rocks’ where early Sydney was forged. Small 19th century buildings lined the streets, retained and in contrast to the modern face of a city now towering above it. The cold and the rain deterred us from lingering but will we seek to return again to explore this part of the city further.
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