A semi-serious adventure

April - October 2015
  • Kim and Alex
A 186-day adventure by Kim and Read more
  • Kim and Alex

List of countries

  • Hong Kong Hong Kong
  • Vietnam Vietnam
  • Cambodia Cambodia
  • Laos Laos
  • Thailand Thailand
  • Australia Australia
  • New Zealand New Zealand
  • Show all (10)
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  • 37.3kmiles traveled
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  • Whitsunday Islands to Airlie Beach

    August 17, 2015 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    It was a night of fitful sleep in our little berth aboard Hammer, however after breakfast we were ready to head off to snorkel through the nearby Langford Reef.

    The current was strong and the water cold as we submerged ourselves. Although our wetsuits offered some protection, this was mostly against jellyfish stings. Nevertheless the strong current forced us to swim hard and this kept us somewhat warm.

    We followed after shoals of fish dancing amongst the small coral but whilst we had spotted a sea turtle while aboard Hammer we had no luck sighting one whilst in the water. Whilst the coral was varied in places it was limited in its size and colour when compared to our experience of the Great Barrier Reef. Nevertheless we then sailed on to Blue Pearl Bay, both coral and fish were of a diversity and size greater than what we had seen before.

    Even before submerging we could see how the water around our dingy teemed with fish. Once out exploring we saw how diverse the coral was in colour and shape. There were shades of blue, green and yellow with even hints of red in shapes like flowers, trees and even the human brain. Tips of the branches appeared to glow like LEDs and in other places the coral was tube like and swayed in the current. All the while fish of all colours and sizes swam around us, close enough to touch but quick enough to escape our clumsy movements. We could have stayed in the water for longer but the temperature was hard to take. Shivering but elated we threw ourselves back up into the dingy before warming ourselves on lunch and sunshine upon Hammer's decks.

    Afterwards we opened the sails once more to head back to Airlie Beach. The boat tilted as the sails and our faces caught the wind. Our hanging feet once again catching spray thrown upward as the hull met the waves head on. Whales and perhaps dolphins were spotted as we bounced and curved a path to the mainland.

    Although neither of us have ever had any particular interest in sailing we both really enjoyed ourselves. The crew and our fellow travellers were great company and once again we felt very fortunate to having such an experience.
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  • Airlie Beach to Brisbane Part I

    August 18, 2015 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The laughing call of kookaburras rang out from the tall gum trees of our hostel's gardens, the white trunks turning clementine in the setting sun. Below we sat on colourful plastic sun loungers, mentally preparing ourselves for another epic bus journey of 20 hours to take us back to Brisbane.

    Nightfall had completely descended by the time we boarded the bus, eager to be on our way. However the bus was soon diverted off its route along the highway due to a traffic accident. This led the bus to thunder down an unlit and poorly maintained side road, which undulated off into the night. With a long distance and schedule to keep the bus thundered through this rollercoaster, its front bumper clattering the tarmac as the road steeply dipped up and down. The driver broke hard to avoid both this and several near-misses with cattle and wallabies, obliviously wandering by the road in the darkness. By sheer luck no animal or bus was harmed but our attempts to sleep were futile. The erratic momentum of the bus bounced us in our seats and threw us forward against our seatbelts. It wasn't until the early hours of the morning, when we had returned to the smoother highway, that we managed to pass out.

    Sunlight and noise brought us out of our cocoons as we arrived in Hervey Bay, where most of our fellow passengers from Airlie Beach departed. We were now over half-way through out marathon journey...
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  • Airlie Beach to Brisbane Part II

    August 19, 2015 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Awake but hardly refreshed, the notion that over half our journey was complete somewhat buoyed our spirits. Bird shit and bug splatter decorated the windscreen as the bus relentlessly ate away at the kilometres before us.

    Starring out of the windows of the moving bus, it was emotive to pass through towns we had previously stayed in on our journey north. Although it had only been weeks since last being there, it felt much longer due to enormity of what had done in the intervening time.

    We grateful absorbed the sunshine and fresh air of Brisbane when we eventually arrived with the grime of the journey clinging to our skin. As with our equally long journey to Cairns, relief could not fully materialise until we had showered, eaten and were able to lay on the soft clean linen of our bed.

    With the smell of soap on our skin and our stomachs content on sushi, we reflected on how surreal it was that in one week we would leave Australia and fly to Thailand for the next stage of our big adventure.

    Yet before then there would be one further long bus journey to Sydney...
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  • Brisbane

    August 20, 2015 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Our bed was a cushioned paradise in comparison to the overnight bus and we slept like royalty. Nevertheless we still took our time with the day, getting the usual laundry and travel admin completed to a soundtrack of new music on a wonderfully free and speedy wifi connection (these things become important when you are repeatedly moving and have no 3G/4G).

    In the afternoon we ventured out under darkening skies (the weather forecast reports showers for the next two days...) to explore the Roma Street Parkland with its art and water features.

    Whilst we are really enjoying Australia we can't help but begin to get excited for the next stage of our adventure - South East Asia. We have heard so much good news from fellow travellers who have already ventured through its countries that we are eager to experience it for ourselves.

    Here is a further playlist of music that has been keeping us company over our journey back south down the east coast of Australia (http://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyhas…) -

    Lovebirds - Want You In My Soul (Radio Edit)
    Bernhoft - Come Around With Me
    Jill Andrews - Get Up, Get On
    Kurt Vile - Pretty Pimpin
    Hilltop Hoods - Cosby Sweater
    Young Guv - Ripe 4 Luv
    Jurassic 5 - Work It Out
    Leon Bridges - Smooth Sailin'
    John Martyn - In The Evening
    AC/DC - Highway to Hell
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  • Brisbane

    August 21, 2015 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Refusing to let overcast skies and the threat of rain dampen our spirits, we bounced our way onto the city bus to visit the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary down in the Fig Tree Pocket (cool name) suburb of Brisbane.

    Although we have been lucky enough to see Koala in the wild, the sanctuary offers visitors the opportunity to hold one, which is safe to do as they have been raised in captivity. Kim thoroughly enjoyed this and rode a Koala-cuddling-high all the way back to the city centre!

    We also got the opportunity to hand feed Kangaroo within a large open pen. Basking in the humid sun they appeared lack lustre, yet quickly demonstrated their power when a mob bounded at speed across the grass to a point 50 metres away. You were further reminded of their strength when the larger ones stood up on their hind legs to come level with your face, the muscles of their torsos visibly shifting under their short haired coats. Yet they docilely nibbled and licked up the food on our open palms, their glassy black eyes reflecting back at us.

    We watched a demonstration of birds of prey, which soared and swooped around our heads to crunch down on white mice offered by their handlers. There was the fearsome looking White Bellied Sea Eagle, who was 22 years old and could potentially live to 40 in captivity. Then the Barn Owl, an assassin capable of silent flight to kill before it's prey even knew what had happened. Followed by the Barking Owl, named because of it's 'woof'-like call, which can kill prey as large as a cockatoo. Lastly the fastest of them all, the Peregrine Falcon, which was so fast (speeds up to 400km per hour) it was difficult to keep track of in the sky.

    Afterwards we watched that great Australian staple - sheep sheering. Undertaken by gruff shearer, Kevin, it looked like backbreaking work, particularly when done, as Kevin explained, over an 8-10 hour a day with shearers pocketing $3 per sheared sheep. However, for the sheep who calmly allowed Kevin to remove its coat with the abloom of a cutthroat barber, it appeared just another day at the office.

    After our recent burger splurges Alex's Dad commented whether we were in fact eating anything but this. We responded that we were, lots of sushi! So in honour of this and a brilliant day, we ate more sushi for dinner!
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  • Brisbane

    August 22, 2015 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The forecast was for more rain but only patchy cloud and humidity hung in the air as we set out to hike Mount Coot-Tha. As on previous occasions we chose to walk out to the mountain/trailhead as well as undertake the ascent/trail to make one big hike.

    Moving under the shadow of glass and steel towers and across wide roads busy with Saturday morning traffic, we dropped down onto the bicentennial walk/bike way with its colour coded lanes stretching off into the distance, parallel to the river. The walkway was curtained with colourful art and flowers and we drifted along as cyclists and the Citycat ferries zipped past us.

    Cutting back into the city's suburbs, the route to the mountain was not clearly signposted for pedestrians, forcing us to meander through a cemetery to find our way over a motorway and onto the summit road. Once there the ascent began, the air thick with humidity causing sweat to tickle the napes of our necks. Those less energetic (more intelligent) went past in their cars but will power drove us on.

    Approaching each blind turn we hoped to find the summit before us but instead found only more road rising up and turning further away. We could sense we were close as the trees lining the road began to thin and the view became more visible. Yet time and again the road taunted us, stretching and turning, onward and upward.

    Finally, gasping with relief we arrived at the summit. Sitting down on the sculpted masonry of the lookout, we replenished our strength as views of the city stretched out to the horizon.

    As a cool breeze massaged our backs we met Hanley, an Indonesian/Australian entrepreneur who had cycled from his home to the summit with his little white dog, Benji, in a basket. Hanley described how Benji, despite sitting comfortably in his basket would still join him in panting and gasping as he cycled hard into the ascent.

    Once recovered we descended back into the city in time with the setting sun. A golden glow reflected on the river and the glazed faces of office buildings. Joints and muscles groaning we collapsed into our bedroom to contemplate our madness as the coolness of the floor permeated into our backs.
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  • Brisbane to Sydney Part I

    August 23, 2015 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Yesterday's hike took more out of us than we'd realised. A deep ache resonated through our bodies and we felt as stable as Bambi walking along Queen Street. The smell of toast and eggs drifted out of trendy eateries where Adidas sporting hipsters breakfasted. The relaxed chatter of the weekend crowd cut out by the roar of motorcycle throttle thundering in from a nearby street.

    We came to a halt in the gardens of the city's, turn of the 20th century, treasury and registrar buildings. From the vantage point of a wooden bench and under the snooty gaze of a bronzed Queen Victoria we soaked in the final hours of pleasant Brisbane before our final bus down to Sydney.

    The heavy crunch of metal drew our attention to a minor traffic accident at the opposite end of the park. With no apparent emergency we remained seated and watched the inaudible drama of witness and insurance details being exchanged and speculated where the man in a tuxedo might have been going and what kind of day the family might have planned.

    Back at the hostel, rest and food brought us back to life and quickly we were saying goodbye to the friendly hostel owners with their doe eyed long haired German Shepherd and heading out of the city on our bus. The sun set fire to the sky before leaving a lilac vapour as it descended below the trees flickering past the window...
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  • Brisbane to Sydney Part II

    August 24, 2015 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    It was a surreal drive through the night to Sydney, drifting in and out of sleep, whilst curled up in a foetal position on a seat perpetually moved with the bounce of chassis against road. Dreams were broken up with flashes of reality, sat bleary eyed in roadside rest stops with illegally bright menu boards advertising mysterious meals named 'Long Haul' and 'Big Rig'. We had neither the energy or nerve to ask what came in an order of 'Big Rig'.

    We felt hungover by the time we filed across the Sydney Harbour Bridge with the Monday morning commuters. A mist of grey drizzle hung over the city yet the Opera House remained impressive down below in the bay. Arriving so early, we had hours before we could check into our room, but once we had eaten, showered and slept for a few hours we felt alive again.

    Surreality continued when we dined out at what we thought from TripAdvisor was a small traditional Italian restaurant. In reality it was a greasy spoon cafe run by Chinese, complete with bright yellow plastic mustard dispensers on the tables. The only sign of Italia was some sun bleached posters on the walls and a chalkboard menu of classic dishes.

    We looked at each other with bemusement as we sat at the table, questioning our judgement and whether we should get out while we could. Yet for the all these initial reservations we ate large bowls of reasonable spaghetti bolognaise with fresh salad and bread for less than £15 in total. Still the clientele were as eccentric as the experience, a fellow patron feverishly wiping down his own table down with a cloth from the kitchen that signalled OCD.

    We laughed at our experience walking back along wet pavements that shimmered with the reflections of city lights. Yet the final surreal moment of the day came when turning on the TV we were greeted with The Police's 'Every Breathe You Take' accompanying tomorrow's weather report. Definitely time for bed.
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  • Sydney

    August 25, 2015 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    An opera of light and sound filled the night's sky as thunderstorms rolled through. However the morning was peacefully still, the sun and blue skies calling us out for our last day in Sydney and Australia.

    Having already explored Sydney on our first visit, we used the time to ready ourselves for Thailand and South East Asia. Stocking up on high SPF sun lotion, DEET and U.S. dollars for visas whilst reminding ourselves to start taking our anti-malarials. In Hyde Park we ate lunch on the grass with the city's office workers, students and tourists, reflecting with excitement on how different our surroundings will be in just over 24 hours.

    After last night's failed attempted at authentic Italian dining we attempted round two at another establishment to get our fix before heading to South East Asia and very different cuisine.

    Firstly, the staff were Italian so the initial outlook was good. Starting with flavoursome olives and garlic bread, Kim ate creamy linguine with thick flakes of salmon. Alex had a wholesome chicken milanese with generous fries and salad. We finished with Jamaican mud cake, the soft light sponge coated in a warm velvety chocolate ganache. It was a great meal, which we had wanted last night yet ironically more fitting to have on our final night anyway.

    One aspect of Australia we have enjoyed has been the friendly forthrightness used in everyday discussion. The sense of proprietary that can exist back home refreshingly absent and thus getting to the heart of the matter. For example, today a television news reader began a story on flash flooding by saying 'can I just say that those who attempt to drive through floods are complete muppets'. Not exactly BBC.

    Here is a similar example that made Alex laugh -

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TZJU1YfLtHI
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  • Sydney to Bangkok

    August 26, 2015 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    We staggered from our bed in early morning darkness to catch our flight to Bangkok. Both of us, particularly Alex, suffering from a food hangover caused by the quantity and richness of last night's food, which after months of backpacking our stomaches have grown unaccustomed to.

    We had chosen to get the train to the airport due to Sydney traffic and the unreliability of airport shuttle buses to arrive on time. However as we walked out of the hotel entrance for the train station, we were met by a heavy set Russian, Sergei, (artistic licence on the basis of his accent) who offered to take us for a discounted rate with another customer who was also staying at our hotel. Caught between opportunity and scepticism we jumped into his mini-van and with surprising agility and speed we weaved through the morning traffic to arrive at the terminal in good time.

    After our very enjoyable experience of flying with Emirates between Auckland and Sydney we were anticipating another good journey with this airline. However this flight was managed by Qantas for Emirates. We loathe to complain because we are very lucky to be doing what we are, however in honour of Australian forthrightness mentioned in the previous post, let's call a spade a spade. It was a tired aircraft with tired crew, poor food and leg room for 10 long hours. By hour 9 Alex felt like punching the man in front, who after take off had whacked his seat back within 6 inches of Alex's face for the full ten hours of the flight. We were very glad to arrive in Bangkok no later than we did to get back to enjoying our adventure.

    The expressway into the city was thick with rush hour traffic, in places four lanes becoming five or six, as motorcycle police slipped between with sirens wailing, attempting to inch the behemoth of vehicles forward. Between giant roadside billboards the skyline was a mixture of building site grey and the rainbow colours of Buddhist temples.

    Finally arriving at our guesthouse we sank into chairs at its small restaurant. We ordered a large quantity of water and proceeded to rehydrate ourselves back to life before eating simple but filling plates of Pad Thai. It was not long before exhaustion took us to bed for much needed sleep.
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