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A semi-serious adventure

4月 - 10月 2015
  • Kim and Alex
Kim andによる186日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
  • Kim and Alex
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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    11

    Stray - Pakse to Don Det

    2015年9月15日, ラオス ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The window to our bedroom, which looked out to a brick wall 6 inches away, was missing a pane of glass. This allowed the noise of the heavy rain to fill the room through the night, meaning we got little sleep. After days of good weather it appears we are moving closer to rains that are coming across to meet us from Vietnam.

    When we stopped at Wat Phou, an ancient Khymer temple built around the same time as Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the sandstone paving was slick with water and the grass squelched as we walked upon. Thick white cloud hung low off the mountainside, obscuring the temple's upper reaches and creating an eerie atmosphere before us.

    We marvelled at the intricate stone masonry still visible in the ruined buildings, the rust of the sandstone coming through in places whilst in others green and white algae were taking over. We stretched to climb up sets of tall steep steps that took us to the top of the temple complex. From there we looked down upon the site and found the profile of an elephant carved into the face of a large boulder as well as the ceremonial block where human sacrifices were lain into the mould of a crocodile before being killed.

    Our destination, Don Det, is one of the '4000 Islands' that sit within this part of the Mekong River. Whilst 4000 sounds impressive, bear in mind that this includes islands just big enough for just a small shrub to grow upon it.

    To reach our hostel we left the bus and splashed our way through a puddle ridden street and down to the pier, where a tired wooden fishing canoe awaited us and our bags. Tentatively walking along the slippery creaking gangplanks, each of us weighed down by heavy bags, we half-clambered/half-fell into the rocking vessel. With our bags off and crouched down on wet planks, the motor coughed into life and we chugged our way across the powerful current. At the other end, disembarking was no easier with Kim almost tipping overboard under the weight of her bag and the motion of the boat. After this near miss we then had to traverse a sliding gangplank onto the dock. For this we removed our flip flops to gain better grip with our bare feet.

    Fortunately after these tests of nerve we were greeted by a large clean bedroom with all the panes of glass included. We spent the evening with what has been our group since Luang Prabang; Jacob, Poppy, Becca and Jade, as they are all 'hopping off' whilst we continue to Cambodia. Tomorrow we will be travelling with a new group who are 'hopping on' from Don Det.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1

    Stray - Don Det to Siem Reap, Cambodia

    2015年9月16日, カンボジア ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    It was time to say goodbye to Laos and hello to Cambodia.

    We squatted in the bottom of our shallow canoe boat back to the mainland, scrambling off as local women climbed over the bow to reach their own vessel, laden with purchases that included a bright yellow child’s bicycle. The boats rocked rapidly under our combined weight and movement.

    A short bus ride later and we were crossing the border into Cambodia on foot, ducking under the giant red and white barrier across the road. From there the usual heptathlon in bureaucracy awaited us, hauling our bags between tents and huts, each with their own rubber stamps and officials in starched uniforms. The one new addition was the requirement of a ‘health check’ for $1, which involved having an infra-red scanner pointed at your forehead for your temperature to be taken. As much as this felt like a fleecing by Cambodian immigration to the sum of $2, it was certainly preferential to a rectal thermometer…

    With the final rubber stamp complete it was a long bus ride through to Siem Reap. Whilst the road was noticeable improved from some of those that we had travelled upon in Laos the traffic is more chaotic. Buses, lorries, tractors and scooters all vied for space, tooting their horns as they overtook each other in a bid to reach Siem Reap first. The chaos was compounded by what can only be described as a ‘cow slalom’ created by the multiple herds of cattle, either sitting or wandering, on both sides of the road. Luckily no damage was caused by the sharp braking and turning.

    Our new and friendly travel companions who ‘hopped-on’ with us at Don Det include; Alisha from New Zealand, Harriett from London, Christian and Mats from Norway and Chelsea from Canada. However these new friendships will be fleeting as whilst we will power on toward Vietnam, Alisha and Harriett ‘hop-off’ in Siem Rep whilst the others will do the same at Sihanoukville in a few days time.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    11

    Siem Reap

    2015年9月17日, カンボジア ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The biggest tourist attraction in Cambodia is the ancient city of the Khmer Empire, Angkor. Situated 4 miles north of Siem Reap (which has been established as a hub to serve this archaeological wonder) the site extends as far as 400km sq and consists of multiple temples and structures within what was at one time a working city of approximately 1 million people. To fully explore it would require weeks but with only one day we took a tour to two of its prominent temples, Angkor Wat and the Bayon.

    Although we had planned to arrive very early to watch the sunrise above the iconic towers of Angkor Wat, our luck with the weather finally ran out as heavy cloud and rain obscured any chance of success. Therefore we arrived later, by which time herds of tourists were funnelling their way toward the temple.

    The sheer scale of Angkor Wat alone was incredible to take in. The gigantic moat surrounding it, was hand-dug by tens of thousands of Thai slaves whilst the huge stones making up the structure were hauled into place using bamboo scaffolding and teams of elephants. Unsurprisingly many lives were lost under the unswaying drive of the Khmer god-king to complete such a construction.

    The sullen clouds and slicing rain did their best to dampen our mood and the grandeur of the temple, yet it was still possible to appreciate its beauty. Walking through the shadows of the long cool corridors, where light slipped through the finely carved sandstone bars of the windows, we learnt how the multiple edges, corners and towers of the temple were meticulously planned from the very start of the construction to represent important ritual aspects of the Hindu and later Buddhist religions that the Khmer followed over the centuries in which they ruled. The interior and exterior walls were etched and carved with the figures of dancing gods and stories and messages we could not begin to comprehend, all with an almost super-human accuracy and consistency. Our tour guide explained that the artisan craftsmanship came from both experience as well as belief that mistakes would bring bad karma (and the likely punishment from Khmer overseers). At the Bayon, the intricate masonry continued with bas-reliefs and multiple towers, leaving us to wonder how more visually stunning it must have been at the time of its completion. Freshly carved and free from centuries of decay and encroachment. We gained but a mere glimpse of the mighty Angkor but this was still impressive enough.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure

    Siem Reap

    2015年9月17日, カンボジア ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After Angkor Wat and as dusk fell we rode by tuk tuk out of the city centre to watch Phare, the Cambodian circus. It is a non-profit organisation that teaches young Cambodians with difficult backgrounds how to heal and express themselves through the arts. Each night the circus performs a different story based on Cambodian history and culture and we watched 'Eclipse', the story of a young boy who struggles to be accepted within his community.

    In the intimate setting of a small tented amphitheatre we watched incredible feats of acrobatics and dance by the athletic and energetic troupe, all accompanied by lights, music and fire. It was a compelling performance that made it easy to see how the circus is welcomed to perform internationally (France and U.S. later this year).    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    111

    Stray - Siem Reap to Battambang

    2015年9月18日, カンボジア ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Along the road to Battambang we pulled over at a roadside stall selling barbecued meats. The stall itself was nothing new but the difference became noticeable as we closed in. Whole rat, bird and snake lay across the grill and platters of crickets, cockroaches and grubs were displayed on the table. Dried fish carcasses hung from the rafter whilst large plastic caskets of locally brewed whiskey stood fermenting nearby. A blanket of charcoal fumes and the sweet tang of cooking meat filled our nostrils. No one was quite brave enough to eat a whole rat but Alex ate some of the grubs and crickets with Keo and Christian. Kim and everyone else looked on with mild disgust. Alex's verdict - the grubs 'weren't great' and the crickets were 'just crispy'.

    At Battambang, just as we had at Ban Pak Nguey in Laos, we stayed the night in a village 'homestay' rather than a hostel. However before arriving we stopped to ride the 'Bamboo Train', a rail system built by the French during their colonisation of Cambodia and largely destroyed by the Khmer Rouge. A 7km section is still used by locals with bamboo platforms lain on train axels, powered by go-kart engines. With the wind in our hair we sat cross-legged on the bamboo. The quick 'thump' of the engine and the slow 'click-clack' of the axels hitting the track joints broke the silence of the countryside.

    We competed for the track with wandering cows as well as carriages coming in the other direction. Whilst the cows were slowly herded away, when confronted with another carriage, one was quickly dismantled and reassembled once the other had past. At the 'end-of-the-line' village, a group of small young girls implored with sing-song voices and big dark eyes to buy hand-made bracelets and waved us off when we returned back down the track.

    At dusk we visited the 'bat cave' where every evening millions of black squeaking bats burst from a cave in the cliffside to form a huge vibrating snake out across the sky.

    This meant that by the time we reached the village it was completely dark. Having ridden in an open-sided tuk tuk we were splattered by an aerial bombardment of bug 'road-kill' before slipping our way through the thick slimy mud tracks to the homestay. We took off our flip flops to walk barefoot as the quagmire would only seek to keep these as a souvenir and we lit our way with mobile phones that turned the mud grey. The cool liquid squeezing and squelching between our toes as we tentatively moved forward in the darkness.

    Tired and disoriented it was with relief when we finally arrived. After washing the mud from our feet and legs, we sat down to a wholesome meal of traditional Khymer food; fried spring rolls, curry and rice. We drank beer and 'cobra-blood whiskey' under the halo of a single electric bulb whilst an army of nighttime bugs flew around overhead.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1
    1111

    Stray - Battambang to Sihanoukville

    2015年9月19日, カンボジア ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We slept under mosquito netting in the single upstairs room of the stilted wooden homestay, where the night's silence was broken at 4:00am by cockerels competing with the megaphone of a nearby temple. In the style of dinner we received a generous breakfast from our warm host family to see us on our way. We slid our way back through the muddy tracks to the roadside, where we showered off the congealing mud from our feet and legs by hand pump, before getting into the bus for the 12 hour ride to Sihanoukville.

    After passing the floating village at Kompong Chhnang, our only major stop was at Mount Oudong, where cross-legged on a raised bamboo platform of straw mats we ate 'Cambodian-style', sharing platters of whole fish, chicken and rice like a Cambodian family would. Around us flies, cats, and dogs hovered for food whilst children edged closer to beg for money, giving us the experience of eating with an audience.

    Travelling exposes you to a world of contrasts, particularly in developing countries. You will see people at the bank withdraw tens of thousands of U.S. dollars in cash whilst children who, by right should be in school, are begging tourists for money. Interestingly, whilst we had prepared to experience begging upon arrival in Bangkok, it has only been in Cambodia that this has occurred. When eating lunch in Siem Reap we were approached by four different adults begging for money. Despite preparation it is never a comfortable experience, especially when involving children. It takes resilience to not fall to emotional instinct and perpetuate a cycle.

    Continuing with contrasts, we found Sihanoukville far removed from the homestay and Mount Oudong, with its plethora of 'Barang' (white person/French in Cambodian), hostels, bars and nightclubs. Like Khao San Road in Bangkok and Vang Vieng in Laos, this was Magaluf in South East Asia. The availability of water sports, cheap alcohol and a simmering sex trade ensuring a conveyor belt of tourists to the beachside resort. We ate freshly barbecued seafood at a restaurant with tables on the sand, surrounded by a circus of neon nights, fire dancers and hawkers selling fireworks by the table side. On the way back to our hostel we were offered tuk tuk rides in the same breath as cannabis and opium.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1

    Sihanoukville

    2015年9月20日, カンボジア ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    After a welcomed leisurely rise from bed and a slow breakfast of the best poached eggs since Australia (when Kim cooked them) we chose to spend our day down at Ochheuteal Beach.

    By mid-morning the temperature was already over 30 degrees as we walked through the streets and along the promenade, where the sunlight exposed the tired grimy interiors and beachside seating of bars and restaurants that the dark, electric lighting and alcohol disguised in the evenings. We strolled straight past what looked like one long hangover, declining the repetitive offers to 'come in, sit down, drink, eat, yes?'. Eventually we found what we thought was one of the better establishments, a bar run by a Cambodian/Swedish family since 2009, and settled in for the day under parasoled sun beds.

    From our shaded retreat we were able to people-watch to our heart's content. Our skin crawled as old fat white haired tattooed men flirted and groped young Cambodian girls. Whilst it was Cambodia and not Thailand we could not help but keep thinking 'Gary-bloody-Glitter'.

    Looking out across the narrow beach to the incoming tide we could see the detritus of many nights' leftovers. Empty cans and styrofoam takeaway boxes were lifted into the surf and even babies nappies were amongst the litter. Had we been staying longer in Sihanoukville then we would have stayed at the quieter and cleaner Otres Beach but after arriving late yesterday and with only day before travelling again we chose to stick it out. Although we risk sounding overly negative and even ungrateful for the luck and success we have enjoyed on our adventure so far, we want to be honest in our description.

    On a much lighter note, one very good thing, both there and across Cambodia's coast is the availability of cheap tasty seafood. Alex and Keo sampled barbecued baby squid and we enjoyed large tasty tuna steaks off the bone for a fraction of the price you would pay at home.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure

    Stray - Sihanoukville to Kampot

    2015年9月21日, カンボジア ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    With Sihanoukville behind us we moved eastward to Kampot, our small group changing again. This time we left behind Norwegians, Christian and Mats, with Canadian Chelsea as we and Freddie (22 year old law graduate from Bristol who joined us in Siem Reap) continued on the bus.

    We found Kampot half asleep as we drove in and it never really woke up. Old decaying French colonial buildings lined the streets as dogs and tuk tuks lazily wandered the wide empty roads. The Preaek Tuek Chhu River flowed silently through the town on its way out to the Gulf of Thailand. It was a pleasant contrast to the sleaze we encountered in Sihanoukville.

    In the evening we took a boat cruise up the river to view fireflies in the trees lining the riverbank away from the town. It was an auspicious start when our boat started to trail oil and black smoke 10 minutes after leaving the dock, which left us sat in the middle of the river whilst the boat's engineer stood waist deep in the engine compartment tinkering and talking on his mobile phone. Despite the language barrier it was quite clear that we were not going anywhere fast. Fortunately another boat arrived surprisingly quickly for 'Cambodian Time' to continue taking us upriver (translates to 'it'll be here when it's here and not a minute sooner', applying to food, transport and many other things). After this we quickly left the electric halo of the town's lights and were immersed into night, lit only by the moon, which silhouetted the riverbank's trees. Coming to a halt and the noise of the boat's engine cut, we sat in silence and watched the reddish white glow of fireflies twinkle and float between the trees.    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure
    1

    Stray - Kampot to Koh Tunsay

    2015年9月22日, カンボジア ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today was our shortest bus journey to anywhere on our entire adventure, a travel time of 25 minutes without delay. 5 minutes in and we ran a flat tire... 30 minutes and some experimental jacking of the bus later we were on our way again.

    Our very close destination was the port of Kep, where we strolled through it's fish market before boarding a fishing boat out to the paradise island of Koh Tunsay (Rabbit Island). The bow of our boat hissed into the shallow sandy beach and we jumped off the wooden hull into the jade water, walking through sentinel palms to our wooden beachside bungalow, thatched with palm leaves.

    We sunbathed under pineapple trees, swam in warm surf and dined on fresh shrimp, squid and crab. It was everything that Sihanoukville wasn't; clean, quiet and beautiful. Electricity by a generator for just a few hours after dark and no wifi added to the feeling of being happily secluded.

    In other news... After months of visiting laundromats across the U.S., New Zealand and Australia, in South East Asia our clothes have been cleaned by local women. In Siem Reap they were even returned ironed and in plastic packaging, all for the same price of a self-service laundromat!

    Also we have been picking up strange slang terms for things from locals and other backpackers. The most used by Alex and Keo is 'I'm going to shoot the rabbit', which translates to 'excuse me I'm just popping to the loo'. This has led to the unknowing innocently asking Keo if we might be eating rabbit for dinner.

    Other slang includes, 'watch out, landmine', which means 'be careful not to step in that dog/cow/elephant shit' and 'whoa, blowout!', used for when the thong of your flip flop is ripped from its sole by the mud that you are trying to navigate safe passage through (this has happened to Alex on 3 occasions so far).    もっと詳しく

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  • Kim and AlexKim and AlexA semi-serious adventure

    Stray - Koh Tunsay to Phnom Penh

    2015年9月23日, カンボジア ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The gentle warmth of yesterday was long gone as we left our bungalow. The wind blustered off the sea, chopping the surf and rattling the palms, whilst a dark gloom descended and rain steadily pattered onto the sands. As we questioned our return journey to the mainland the brewing storm suddenly dissipated, as if sensing our trepidation. The wet jungle pathway glistened in the morning sun as we walked down to a calm turquoise cove. Knee high in the warm water, we loaded our bags and climbed aboard our boat. Out in the open channel we were tossed side to side by the swell and surf sprayed down from the bow but we came through unscathed.

    Back on the bus we headed toward our final stop in Cambodia, the capital Phnom Penh. Before arriving in the city we stopped at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, a memorial to the millions that were murdered by Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge regime in the late 1970s. At Choeung Ek and many other sites tens of thousands were brought by truck to be bludgeoned to death (bullets were too costly) whilst hundreds of thousands more perished across the country under forced labour, starvation and disease in a state-sponsored genocide. Women were raped and children had their skulls smashed against trees whilst speakers blared out patriotic anthems to mask the screams of the butchered.

    It was an utterly sobering experience that is difficult to convey in words. Rows of skulls, scarred and shattered by murder weapons were encased within the memorial stupa, surrounded by an undulating landscape of craters where the mass graves of thousands were excavated in 1980. Bone and clothing are still thrown up from soil during heavy rains.

    Within 4 years over 2 million people died, ¼ of Cambodia’s population, before the country was liberated by its Vietnamese neighbours. Yet incredulously due to Cold War political blindness, Pol Pot and his cronies continued to hold a seat at the UN and were viewed as the legitimate government of Cambodia. Pol Pot was not put under house arrest until 1997, continuing to enjoy a family life until he died in 1998. We are reading a book about this dark chapter in history by a woman, Loung Ung, a child survivor of the carnage. The book is titled ‘First They Killed My Father’.    もっと詳しく

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