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Camino Portuguese
  • Journey to Kimba
  • Journey to Kimba

Camino Portuguese

From September 17 to October 16, 2024, I’ll be on a spiritual pilgrimage from Porto, Portugal to Santiago de Campostella, Spain. Read more
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  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Low tide on Rio Verduga, Arcade
    Low tide on Rio Verduga, ArcadeMedieval bridgeUnique Camino direction signClimbing upward, some paths were comfortableOops, now what? Go around3I love these, I love them, I do.2Less than 75k to Santiago, but its not about the destination. "Unless you have to catch a plane"So pretty through the woods. What is the tree that peels off its bark in long sheets?Ah, the colors of ferns.So gorgeousUnique farm configurationLove the villages up the hills under the cloudsMooIn Pontevedra, kids and birdsA convent in Pontevedra center of old town.Tall flatsedge"Marvel of Peru"1My favorite medicinal lichen, UsneaChyrsopaKids dancing to busker violin in Pontevedra

    Arcade to Pontevedra

    October 3, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 66 °F

    Nice walk today. Weather was decent, humid, thick clouds. My clothes were clean and dry but even with multiple passes with the blow dryer, my shoes and insoles were still a little damp. I kept part of my awareness on my feet, as always, watching for hot spots. I adjusted the laces a couple times, and, knock on wood, all’s good with my feet.
    A long slow up climb, mostly in the woods or past farms. Then pretty steep down paths. I had wanted to stop at a particular village but there was no Bolt or Uber service so I kept on and I kept on, walking all the way to my hotel, praying for strength throughout the last 2 miles.

    Pontevedra is a hopping city. Even at 8:30pm, there’s very active street noise.

    Inner Journey: I came upon a section of big rocks like with the old Roman roads. “Oh, I hate these rocks, its so easy to twist an ankle.” Relieved when a dirt path appeared 40 yards up the hill, then discouraged when there was another stretch of the big rocks. I thought, hating them isn’t going to help, so what if I say I love them? So I did, on all the stretches of rocks. I suspected that loving them would either remove them from my testing grounds or I would actually transform my relationship to them. It did become more fun. I wonder if I could approach other things/people/situations with that attitude, would my experience of them shift?

    Any bets? How ‘bout the big Orange problem in the news? Could I?    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Plaza at wine time
    Plaza at wine time2Street view through an archPedestrian only streetPilgrim coin machine1Notice the family crests on the exteriorsAnother plaza, old mansions surrounding. There's a crest.The virgin pilgrim, um, carrying a baby.1Ruins of a church from 1400's. Moldering.1I'm sorry. What's in the mouth?Church of St Bartholomew. The priest inside was getting ready for Friday nite mass.The inside of St Bart'sCloseup of St Bart? I love the demon? Angel? he's got.1I love the crystal lights flowing from her handsPilgrims and The Man.

    Pontevedra rest day

    October 4, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 64 °F

    This city is so alive, just not between 1:30 and 4:00pm, siesta time. They’ve turned the old city area into pedestrian only(plus a few delivery vans) so there’s milling, there’s cruising, there’s dog walking, there’s shopping and of course there’s sipping and watching.

    Lots of old churches, some are open for visitors, some dating from the 1400’s. Old mansions with family crests sculpted onto their exteriors. Statues, classical architecture government offices. On and on with old.

    I totally enjoyed my helado 🍧 sitting on a wall, watching people. Two-cheek air kisses instead of hugs, older ladies walking arm in arm three across, teen boys with rock star hair cuts and cigarettes, teen girls with lots of skin showing. Girls singing along to the buskers. Kids riding dads’ shoulders, little dogs straining on their leashes, other dogs unleashed, exploring smells then catching up with their humans. Life baby! Here it is in this town of so much old.

    Inner journey: wondering what pilgrims of old might have sought. In the beautiful round church of the virgin pilgrim, feeling a sense of bigger spirit, not something outside but extended and all encompassing. Individual expression within but linked.
    I asked again, to my higher self there touched, what’s next. And writing about this journey, and other journeys, came up. I am ok with that.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Rainy, misty day with a decent climb up
    Rainy, misty day with a decent climb upLooking back on PontevedraThe choice point- The Spiritual Varant adds 83k.Santiago the pilgrimSpiritual Variant marker. I got off the track several times due to fewer signsA unique style of signNarrow wet pathwayLots through woods and natural areasGrabby brushA begoniaI listened to the bells chime noon here at San Pedro's chapelThey were having a wedding at this church in PoioAnother Santiago the Pilgrim statue on the outside of the church in PoioCountry homeThese are the trees that lose bark in sheets. Google says they are eucalyptusGallacian petroglyph. Reiki people, look familiar?A lot of homes, buildings have the roll down metal shades on windowsArriving in CombarroGalacian red fish with potatoes. Really good!!2I said "I'll have what they had" not at all sure what it was. A chocolate cheesecake I think.

    Pontevedra to Combarro

    October 5, 2024 in Spain 🌧 66 °F

    Soaking rain then stinging rain. I separated from the Central Camino to the Spiritual Variant. This will eventually follow the path supposedly taken by St James’ (Sant Iago) followers when they returned his remains via boat to Spain. James went back to Jerusalem after trying to convert the folks of the Iberian peninsula. It didn’t turn out well for him in Jerusalem.

    At times the path is just wide enough for one and that’s with the brush fighting to keep your walking sticks. With the moderate rain, those narrow paths were muddy, a little slippery and the effort was finding the right next step to minimize soakage. My bladder lost it, then when I finally got to a cafe and changed out of my rain-soaked shirt, the zipper on my sweatshirt lost it. I scrambled to get a safety pin to cover some part of me and slouched through lunch.
    The hotel had laundry service, a tub, and a very good restaurant across the street. Such a blessing.

    A couple ladies from New Zealand crossed paths with me a few times. They asked what was my favorite part so far and I said the smell of eucalyptus. Makes me grin thinking of the conversation.

    Inner journey: sometimes all I can do on this trek is focus on the moment, where to step and to anchor myself with my poles, ready to stop any slide or fall.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Morning view from my hotel in Combarro
    Morning view from my hotel in Combarro12th century monastery church in Armenteira. Notice the 7 arches to enter.Close up of rose mandala.Inner lookClose up of benevolent MaryFall colorsView near hotel in ArmenteiraFancy modern hotel1I think my gut churning in the morning is so I can really get used to the 2nd basin1My hotel has a trap door under the shower2OMG its a bathtub!!

    Combarro to Armentiera

    October 6, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 63 °F

    The topographic map of today’s hike was very intimidating. I decided this would be the day to taxi from start to finish. Plus there were some reports of thunderstorms expected.

    I was delivered to the 12th century monastery in Armenteira and found soft respite in the chapel with a benevolent Mary statue prominent behind the altar. The suffering cross was off in some shadow. I found myself doing Ancestral Lineage healing intentions, focusing on my maternal grandmother and her mothers back through time, thinking of the disempowerment of women, the suffering through childbirth and caring for others, the crap that women have gone through over the last number of centuries. And I told them of the great possibility of a woman president and of the growing personal expression, enfranchising, and empowerment of women. I felt the anchoring of the divine feminine out of the gravel of the pain, suffering, joy and continued growth of their lives. I felt them joining with the well, healed, and fully integrated earlier ancestors. It was good.

    My hotel was up a hill and my room was fully ready for me when I arrived at noon. The bed is great and I caught a couple more hours of sleep while the rain shook by in sheets.

    At the pub, a man I met yesterday said the last 2k coming up the hill were walking through a creek, first time he felt the need for his poles and I was smart to choose alternative transportation today.
    Ah-ho!

    Inner journey: just feeling really blessed. Following my inner guidance and taking care of myself. And being reminded by my dear commenters that my journey matters to them too.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Loud and intense runoff
    Loud and intense runoffThe power of waterDeep blue sky. So lovely.A mill houseTime has taken over1Green and mystical1I can almost see the little people hiding in the woods.2Lunch. A variety of croquettes. I think the darkest was squid with ink. Not so yummy but affordableExcuse the thumbEnjoying a rest in the sun

    Armentiera to Ponte Arnelas

    October 7, 2024 in Spain 🌧 61 °F

    I’m deep in the Spiritual Variant of the Camino. Very few people. Lots of time to talk to myself and sing right out loud. Which I did. A lot.

    The Camino followed “The path of stone and water” starting with the Armenteira river which was roaring white water. Gushing with rain run off. The path itself was puddled, often muddy, a little slippery, and a few times squishy. There were ruins of old grain mills that diverted water to drive the millstones. The trees were like from a fairy land, mossy, falling over, creating dark arches and hiding unseen creatures.

    The day started with rain, as usual. Someone at breakfast said ”oh yeah,I remember sun”. And in a couple hours the sun did come out. Yay! I stopped to rest and rub my aching knee. Someone came by. He pointed to the darkening clouds over the eastern mountains, said something “mucho fluvio” and wiggled his fingers like in the Itsy Bitsy Spider song. I decided I’d better get a move on, sore knee or no to avoid mucho rain. Well the sun came out again (and dried up all the rain, so the itsy bitsy spider…) and I needed to slow down anyway. Maybe the forecasted rain for this evening will wash the spider out.

    Once the whitewater eased, I was in grape land again. Very few places to stop. Until I got to my hostal, not quite a hotel and not a hostel. By the time I arrived I was pooped. Muy cansado.

    Inner journey: aware of the intense power of water, sending compassion to those affected by Helene and Milton. Hurricane Kirk will impact us here. I’ll keep a weather eye. My out loud chanting became “balance,” intending the Earth to come to balance. Hopefully with grace and ease.
    Oh, and Im homesick. 😕    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    The boat less traveled, at least not by me
    The boat less traveled, at least not by meThe marinaStreet view in Ponte ArnelasHarbor view in Vilanova de ArousaPilgrims crossing into town. They ran and shouted their joy at making it. I saw them this am.View from my hotel in a rain breakThis was a half-sized sandwich.I thought today I would like some pasta and it was on the hotel's menu, w/veg! The Camino providesAnd a lovely postres of ice cream.

    Ponte Arnelas to Vilanova de Arousa

    October 8, 2024 in Spain 🌧 64 °F

    I ached so much overnight that for the 2nd day in a row I got very little sleep. The forecast, with the remains of Hurricane Kirk, was for severe weather and wind. I decided to taxi it.
    Again, my room was ready when I got there and I rested before heading out.

    From here, there’s a boat ride that goes up river, following the path taken by St. James’ followers to bring his body back to his beloved Galaica. Its often called the highlight of the Spiritual Variant path which was so lovely yesterday. Well, the boat ride is canceled as the worst of the storm is supposed to hit tonight and tomorrow. 😕 The person with the Marina Info center suggested I take a bus to near my next hotel, not walk all the way from where the boat docks because of the storm. So back at the hotel, the receptionist looked up the bus schedules and looks like I can get about 3.5 k from my next hotel, for less than 10euro. A cab might cost 250e. Yikes.

    So my first few days were impacted by fire and my last few walking days are impacted by wind and water. And always, there has been my beloved Earth beneath my feet.

    The wind is howling as I wrap this up, 8pm cest.

    Inner journey: is it the accumulation of miles or the accumulation of years that is making this hard? I am definitely feeling my age and missing my chiro and massages. Or is it the storm and solar flares and crazy stirred up energy everywhere that I mistakenly thought I’d get away from. People from other countries want to shake their head and ask about our politics. Oy vey!
    I hope my efforts with the intention of sending peace and balance and courage and heart-centeredness are felt by the earth and reverberate through and around.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    2One group that opened up to let me in
    2One group that opened up to let me in

    Vilanova de Arousa to Ames

    October 9, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 63 °F

    The storm blew through overnight and well into late morning. I had the metal shades down and the window opened a bit to get some air. That made the shades and the door bang a little. And the toilet had an incessant drip. I miss my bed, my fan, my pillow.

    Talking to other pilgrims about the choices they were making regarding the storm, I decided to get the late bus that heads to Santiago, leaving at 6:00 pm. The other morning options were still during the storm. So I hung out at the hotel mostly all day, hanging out with 1 group that had a 2:00 taxi to Padron and then another group that arrived via taxi from Armenteira. Then at 5:00 I headed out to walk the mile or so to the farmacia where the hotel receptionist told me the bus stopped. No, no bus comes here. I’d been nervous all day that something about the bus wouldn’t work out. The hotel receptionist said he’d get me a taxi if I want. So I trudged back the mile or so and he got me a taxi, arrived about 5 minutes later. A 40 minute pretty drive to my country guest house.

    As I trudged, several spanish speakers called out what sounded like encouragement. One lady was leaning over her fence. I said Ola. She replied in Spanish asking how I was. Very well thank you. I’m not sure but I think she said “God loves you very much”. I accept!

    Inner journey: I tried to positive-think myself out of anxiety about the bus, but something wasn’t right. I double checked with the receptionist about the location. I double checked the time on the app. I did know I had options and one way or another it would work out. I got to enjoy the company of a number of great women while I waited and I got a little walking in. Plus I received all those blessings. In retrospect, I could have been better served with attitude of “something is not quite right, and I’ll keep on this path because there is something here for me.” That’s what I did anyway, just holding onto the anxiety.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    I'm in the Plaza de Obrigado in front of the Santiago Cathedral. The crane is on cleaning duty
    I'm in the Plaza de Obrigado in front of the Santiago Cathedral. The crane is on cleaning dutyCasa do Cruciero where I stayed on 10/9Only 10k to go. I can do this!1Uh, a storm was here. Whoever maintains the path had cleared a lot further up.Green and mistyWooded path near SantiagoScarecrow?Suburban streetsCountry vistasComic relief, when I needed it👋A storm was here tooMy second favorite healing herb, stinging nettle. I did not rub it. Duh!There's always a choice.One of the gazillion churches in SantiagoGalatian food with new friendsThe famous Galatian piper at the end of the Camino Frances2So many people arriving from the different Caminos, celebrating a long meaningful journey

    I made it!

    October 11, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 50 °F

    I dragged my exhausted butt to Santiago de Compostela! I did it!

    I arrived about 3:15 on 10/10. I was so tired and achy I chose to skip the cathedral to shower and rest before taking in the Cathedral de Santiago.

    The day was kind of a microcosm of the whole walk. The morning was cool, wet, misty. I had to walk about 1k to join up with the yellow markers. The path was sandy and wet with a felled tree we either walked under or around. There were stony climbs and steep descents. There were small towns, pop-up vendors, wooded paths, and a long slog uphill once getting to town, navigating around kids clogging the streets near every-block bus stops. There were narrow windy roads and aggressive drivers, people nodding their well-wishes, and cafes with cakes.

    Once getting into Santiago historical district, the way narrowed and like water through a pipe, more and more pilgrims flowed upward toward the Cathedral. I kind of fought to get out so I could skip the crowd and get to my hotel.

    Taking MB S’ suggestion, my mantra was something like “I receive miracle after miracle.”
    And a rest stop appeared when I needed it, or a rest room. A young man said to me, “enjoy the last part of this” and I did. I started to cry on the outskirts of the city, then had to focus on one leg in front of the other up another long hill, enjoying it. At a rest on someone’s stone bench in their driveway, two of the ladies from yesterday’s picture passed, turned to say, “buen camino”, and we both said, Hey! I know you. They got my contact info and invited me to dinner. What a miracle! Another place I stopped to admire a bridge and 2 young ladies offered to take my picture. Later, when I was at the cathedral just crying and crying, they came over to comfort and connect and they showed me where the pilgrim office is, where I register as a walker and get the Compostella certificate.

    So I was able to have drinks and dinner to celebrate with some great people. Yay! I did most of this alone, walking slower than everyone I conversed with, and was so blessed with company at the end.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Entering the plaza from the Portuguese Way
    Entering the plaza from the Portuguese WayPlaza is soakedWelcome Nichole!The final ribbons are placedThese paths have held over a million feet and billions of prayersA side tower of the CathedralInside the cathedralSteep rainy streetsAnother churchFrom Santa Susana park3Almond torte with helado and mixed berry compote

    Exploring Santiago

    October 12, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 59 °F

    Overcast and heavy rain, of course. I went to pilgrim mass in the morning, in Spanish, welcomed Nichole the last of the group from Vilanova de Arousa, shopped a bit, tied the last of my ribbons, found a CBD store, ate some good food.

    I was limping pretty badly, then remembered I have OTC meds and gels for that, that even though I’m done with the long walking, my body is still in a healing process. My mind and spirit too.

    I’m still moved when I’m in the plaza, I’m still lost when I try to find my hotel among the crazy turns and intersections in this ancient city, still not sure what I’m ordering from the menu.

    It’s all amazingly, miraculously good.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    I placed a stone here, painted with "peace"
    I placed a stone here, painted with "peace"Distance from Virginia Beach? A long way!Buddies from the bus.There's the end. Hello America!At a seaside town known for harvesting shell fish.At a waterfall and hydroelectric plant. Imagine the sound when that lot cracked offWaterfall into the ocean, only one in SpainSoothing ocean wavesChurch of Our Lady of the Boat, rebuilt in early 2000'sA mideval bridge and mill1Reminds me of mill towns in Massachusetts

    Bus to Finisterra

    October 12, 2024 in Spain 🌬 64 °F

    In the very old days, the world was flat and the ocean dropped off the side of the Earth. The Romans named this prominence “The End of the Earth” - Finisterra. Pilgrims would come here, bathe in the ocean to wash away their sins, marvel that they made it to the end, then turn around and go home.

    Now there’s a light house, a hotel, a souvenir shop and a stone pillar marking the zero kilometer point. You have to stand in line to get a photo as bus after bus of folks not needing to wash away sins come here for a ceremonial completion. There are a few intrepid souls that walk the extra miles from Santiago. Bless them and their sins.

    The bus tour took us to a number of picturesque stops along the way.

    The sun came out, it was a lovely day.    Read more

  • Journey to KimbaCamino PortugueseJourney to Kimba
    Many blessings from Porto and beyond
    Many blessings from Porto and beyondMorning on the bus from SantiagoLovely clear skies. From a bus. Really? Not while I was walking?!?Port wine tasting. The white is sweet. The tawny is full bodied. The rose is fruityFood pairing. Oops, too much for me.Amazing terraces in Douro valley wine countryOlive trees help to hold the soil. They will be harvested by hand in DecemberTerraces on steep mountainsGrapes and more grapes and more grapes and more grapesWe rode a barque on the Douro river. AhhhBarques everywhere on the riverPorto's azure hand-painted tilesThere's an actual phone in thereVila de Gaia from the other side1Steep! This was the "wow" spot, in every language.Here a vineyard, there a vineyard...

    Epilogue: Santiago - Porto - Home

    October 17, 2024 in the United States ⛅ 59 °F

    Bus to Porto took 3.5 hours, not 3.5 weeks. I didn’t realize how many hills I passed, or that fall had started it’s appearance. In Porto, the exhaustion started to settle in and I took a hop on, hop off bus to see the town and never hopped off, just went back to rest.
    Next day was a day trip to wine country, Douro valley. The engineering of terraces for wine and olive trees blew me away. I had too much to drink, very easy for me, and I probably snored on the drive back.

    There was evidence of fires from mid-September. The tour guide at the winery said they were encased in black smoke which might give the wine this year some interesting flavor notes. 😉The bus driver played “What a Wonderful World” and I cried. Hills of green, rainbows, blessed infrequent blue skies. Colors of people from different countries, unified with the diverse intentions they each brought to this historic path. Smells of eucalyptus, sheep, mud, roaring rivers. What a wonderful world.

    Flight across the pond was 8 hours, 3 movies. More crying at the Disney movie, “Young Woman and the Sea” about a girl who overcame various challenges to swim the English Channel. In the 1920’s! It wasn’t walking 150 miles, but you know, she did it!

    It was a little bumpy as we landed in NJ. I forgot to eat the apple I stole from the breakfast buffet ( be advised, all food must be eaten here! ) so it had to be incinerated. Fire to fire! Why not.

    So back home, I collapsed after my 23-hour day. Allergic rhinitis( happens to the best of us) dehydration, toothache. More and more tears. The integration begins.

    Inner journey: we can do better. We can be kinder, gentler, more helpful. We can preserve natural places better. We can share duct tape for someone with blisters, we can give someone a ride when they’re scared or tired, we can share space in a taxi, we can pick someone up at a hospital. We can live simpler, on fewer clothes and simpler meals. We can find meaning in the simplest things. We can forgive and move on to what’s next. We can take the next step, rest, next step.

    I hope to live more from my heart, share light wherever I am, rest and restore and journey outward.

    I’ve been very blessed by this journey and I hope you have been blessed by witnessing and supporting me.

    Buen Camino, whatever The Way is for you.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 16, 2024