Gjilan

Today we will finish climbing the pass in the Shah mountains and then descend back to the plains before ascending a valley close to the Serbian border ready to cross into North Macedonia. Its now autumn, the colours are increasing each day and it is cooler in the mornings.

The first pass is not so far and we note the presence of the UN K force at the top. On the descent, the dual language signs all have the Albanian part scored out and we are soon in a rather downbeat Serbian village. Its sad to sense the on-going tensions and provocations. New churches and mosques ring of one upmanship. Monuments are one sided and we hardly ever see a Kosovo flag without an Albanian flag beside it.

Pedalling on there is much smoke today with many fields being burnt off. Our plan is to rough camp due to lack of other alternatives. Attempt 1 is vetoed by Alice as having too much smoke. In the end we tumble into a small field down from the road just as light falls. We cook in the dark.

The next morning we are up at dawn and covering the final miles to the border crossing into North Macedonia just as it starts to pelt down. There is unanimous agreement that we might as well call it a day and hole up in the dry in Kumanovo town at the bottom of the hill.Read more