• Ladyandtramp

Mexico & New Zealand - 2019/20

From the known to the unknown. Okumaya devam et
  • Gezinin başlangıcı
    11 Aralık 2019

    A Dedication

    1 Aralık 2019, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ -4 °C

    This book is dedicated to our two daughters, Amy and Caitlin, their husbands, Tim and Matt, and loving grandchildren, Audrey (7), Cal (6), and Nathan (3) who bring us endless joy.

  • Background Info about our Winter Trips

    9 Aralık 2019, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Fergus, Ontario, Canada

    Each of our travel blogs have included an introduction similar to the one below with a new add-on at the bottom regarding new plans. This introduction has been growing and growing but I like to keep this going as a summary of our life’s major adventures. This year's winter trip is number 15.

    Here's how we caught the travel bug...

    In 1999, after taking a one year leave of absence from our teaching jobs, selling our house and purging most of what we owned, Chris and I packed our bags into a van and headed to Zamora, Michoacan, Mexico, to teach English to Mexican students. Our youngest daughter Caitlin had already left home to perform for a year with a traveling group called Up With People. Our other daughter, Amy had studied Spanish at school, so she traveled to Mexico with us, helping us navigate our way to Zamora. Shortly after we got to our destination, she flew home and started her 3rd year of university. She lived in a townhouse, with two other students, that we had purchased to store 1 roomful of our valuables and to have a place to 'come home to' when we returned. During that year that we taught in Mexico, we fell in love with its daily blue skies and sun, and the latino lifestyle. We promised ourselves, that in our retirement we would return.

    Four years later, after retiring from teaching, we went back to Mexico. We spent four months on the shores of Lake Chapala in Mexico, in a beautiful house where we made lots of wonderful friends.

    The second year we backpacked through Central America from Guatemala to Panama taking a puppet theatre and puppets with us.

    The third year we focused on learning more about the Mayan culture by spending a month in the Yucatan Peninsula, a month in Guatemala, a month backpacking from San Cristobal, in the Chiapas, up the Pacific coast of Mexico to Puerto Vallarta. Along the way, we had several visits with friends. Finally, we ended up once more in Ajijic on Lake Chapala, where we stayed for a month.

    The fifth year, we felt that we wanted to venture a little further south so we did something a little different. We headed to South America following a three week layover in Guatemala where we spent Christmas and New Year's eve with our daughters and one of our future son-in-laws. We took and distributed 300 pairs of reading glasses, continued to learn Spanish and volunteered for two organizations in needy communities in both Guatemala and Ecuador. We helped to paint a huge mural on the side of a coliseum with artist, Susan Shanley. The highlight of our trip was the creation of a Grand Circus of Puppets which was performed by all the children in a Biblioteca (library), as well as 25 volunteers, in Banos, Ecuador.

    Year Six was a favourite of ours. We spent a month in Peru, three months in Bolivia and then returned to Peru to see Machu Picchu. Because we had enjoyed volunteering in the Arte del Mundo library in Ecuador the previous year, we looked for another library to help out in Bolivia. We were able to find another wonderful, non-profit organization called Biblioworks, based in the capital city of Sucre.

    <a href="http://biblioworks.org/&quot; target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://biblioworks.org/</a&gt;

    The North Carolina group who runs this project provides disadvantaged Bolivian communities, in the vicinity of Sucre, with access to books and learning materials. Since 2005, they have been able to build 12 community libraries, support teachers and students, and put countless books in the hands of adults in both North and South America. The eighth library opened when we were there and we took part in an exciting inauguration with our amazing 'boss' from South Carolina, Matt Lynn. What a wonderful organization.

    Our very good friends, Pat and Gail, who we met in Mexico in 1999/2000, joined us in February and March. Due to the generosity of many of our good Ontario friends, we took down 6 puppets which were used in a puppet show, puppet-making workshop materials (so that 200 children can make simple rod puppets), an educational parachute for games, and 200 pairs of
    reading glasses. Four classes at Greensville Public School, near Dundas, Ontario, prepared artwork which we took to Bolivia as part of an art exchange. Fun!

    The next three years were spent back in Mexico. Year Seven was in Ajijic, helping at the Tepehua Community Centre. A fantastic lady, Moonyeen King, was trying to help out the extremely poor people in this part of Chapala by forming a centre where people could eat a hot meal and have a shower once a week, get medical aid and feel that they were part of a community. We helped out by distributing food, playing with the kids, performed a Xmas puppet show and organized the painting of a huge mural on the side of the building, once again led by artist, Susan Shanley. We also travelled to the beautiful Sierra Gorda where we met two very special people, Margarita and Juan, as well as a traveling group of puppeteers. Two hundred pairs of reading glasses were also distributed.

    Year Eight saw us in Queretaro, Mexico - a beautiful old city, just on the west side of Mexico City. There we studied more Spanish and helped out a young puppeteer, Diego Ugalde. Once again we traveled into the amazing Sierra Gorda and then went north to ride the El Chepe train in the Copper Canyon in Chihuahua.

    Year Nine. Back to Mexico, but this time in a city south of Mexico City, Cuernavaca. We stayed in a lovely house with beautiful gardens, hidden behind high walls. We started this trip by flying to Manzanillo and spending a week on the ocean with our friends, Pat and Gail. Then off to Cuernavaca where they joined us for a week. We flew to Puerto Escondido for Chris' birthday and saw our friend from Panama, Scott, as well as cottage neighbours, Dale and Michelle. We helped out a young artist who was setting up a business in Cuernavaca. From him we learned how to make traditional Papel Piedra dolls. In March, we flew to Los Angeles and did something that we have never done before. We rented an ESCAPE campervan for a month and camped through South California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada. Fabulous!

    Year Ten had a big change... Where did we go, and why? Well, I happened to read a blog entry entitled, "Ten Reasons You Should visit Namibia" by fellow Canadian travelers, Kevin and Ruth, and I was hooked.

    http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ladyandtra…

    I easily convinced Chris, and without much effort, in the way of coaxing, enticed our friends, Pat and Gail, to join us in Windhoek, Namibia? We went off on a camping safari trip extraordinaire in Namibia and Botswana! Of course, we took puppets for a travelling puppet show, ukuleles and a parachute to give away to a needy community. Pat and Gail flew home in February and we had a few weeks to kill so flew to Capetown, South Africa, where we rented a car and drove a couple of thousand kilometers along the beautiful Indian Ocean coast staying in guesthouses along the way.

    After that amazing trip, we had to rethink where we would like to spend a winter and we came up with a crazy plan.

    When we were in Ecuador, we heard stories from travellers about the thrill of sailing through the San Blas Islands in Panama and the rugged beauty of Colombia.

    So Year Eleven in 2015, was the year that we saw for ourselves what others have been talking about. But Colombia wasn't the only place we visited. The Yucatan and Cuba were also in the picture!

    President Obama recently made the decision to allow Americans to legally visit Cuba and we know that major changes will take place. We wanted to see the real Cuba before those changes took place. It was an eye-opener.

    So, as we ask ourselves every summer, "Where will we spend our winter this year?".

    We are in good shape, physically, and are still up for some adventure so for Year Twelve in 2016, we decided to go back to Colombia and see some of the beautiful areas that we did not get a chance to see on last year's trip. The difference will be that we will meet up with our good friends Pat and Gail and do some parts of this trip together. Ahhh, more Colombian coffee, birds plus the Amazon and good times with our travelling friends.

    Year Thirteen, 2017. We have missed visiting Mexico but still want to continue heading south in South America. So this year, we will spend a month in Uruguay (and a few days in Buenos Aires) and then fly to Mexico City. We have rented a beautiful house for 3 months in Patzcuaro, Mexico. Dear Texan friends live there. We haven’t seen them for at least ten years. It will be a wonderful reunion. Pat and Gail may also come down for a visit and we hope our daughters will have the time to come down too. (These plans sadly didn’t happen.)

    Year Fourteen, 2018/19. A big change in plans this year. We are heading to Portugal! Not just the mainland, but also to the lovely islands of Madeira and several of the Azore Islands. In fact, our daughters and their families have already bought their plane tickets to Sao Miguel in the Azores and will be joining us during the March Break. What fun we will have!

    Year Fifteen, 2019/20. Back to Mexico where we will spend Christmas and New Years close to Puerto Vallarta, in the tiny mountain village of Mascota, then three weeks with our travelling buddies from Bellingham, Washington, Pat and Gail, in the Pacific beach village of Chacala. But that’s not all. At the end of January, we will fly to New Zealand for an action-packed, two month road trip. A great place to travel for Chris’ 70th!

    P.S. We are contemplating a trip to Mongolia ....

    NOTE: The blog will be written and left in draft form. The way that you see it, is the way it was written.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Writing this Blog

    9 Aralık 2019, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Welcome to our 2019/20 travel blog. No photos yet, but there will be, soon enough.

    As we are doing so much travelling, in the time we are away, we plan on making two books - one for our 6 weeks in Mexico and another for our 2 months in New Zealand.

    During the next few months, Chris and I will try to post entries and photos on this NEWish blog site as we travel to Pacific Mexico and New Zealand. This is our third year using Finding Penguins as our travel writing template for blogs. We can write, post photos, show our location and at the end of our trip, we can order a hard-covered book of our blogs. Also we can work on the blog offline - a big bonus when we are in places with limited or no wifi. Every year that we have travelled, we have had our blogs made into a hard-covered book that are dedicated to our family. Yes, it is a commitment to keep up the blogs, but once we get into a routine, it isn’t so bad. The books are great keepsakes.

    We have realized that writing a blog is a good way to provide ourselves with a record of our travels, a place to store some of our favourite photos, to give family and friends some information of where we are and what we are doing, and maybe to inspire a few 60+ year olds who want to try long term traveling with only a carry-on bag, a day pack, (and maybe a ukulele or puppets) while trying to keep to a budget. We do try to travel economically - shopping for and cooking most of our own food and staying in small local hotels/guesthouses that have been recommended to us by other travellers. In all of our adventures, we have always come home ahead of the game, in the financial area. It's a fact. It has been cheaper for us to travel than it is to stay home over the winter! And what wonderful places we have visited!

    Finding Penguins has some good little features. It has been designed as a place to record ‘Footprints’ or special moments. So we can write a little or a lot and each blog has room for 6 - 10 photos that can be viewed in a slide show. If you click on one photo, it enlarges and you can scroll through the others. Last year, we did not take a camera. We used our phone’s camera and at times the iPad’s camera and the photos turned out fine.

    You can choose to LISTEN TO OUR BLOGS! Highlight and copy the text, then paste it into the left pane of Google Translator at this address ...

    http://translate.google.ca/?hl=en&tab=wT#.,

    When you do this, it will automatically appear in the right pane (I.e., English to English translation). Then, just click on the little speaker icon at the bottom of the right pane and you'll hear it.

    We always love receiving short comments and we especially like the questions that some of you have asked about the countries we are in. If you click the "post a comment" button at the bottom of our entries, you can easily send a short message. Remember that the blog is available for anyone (in the world) to read, so be mindful of what you say. Over 30,000 people have read our past blogs. You can still send us an email at chronny80@gmail.com, if you want to.

    Before we head out on December 11th, we plan on brushing up on how to use this site by posting a few entries from home which will include our itinerary and our packing list. Then, we'll be ready to go!

    By the way, if you don't want to receive these pages, please ignore the notices from Ladyandtramp or take yourself off the list. We won't be offended!

    Have a wonderful holiday and keep in touch. Your little comments keep us connected with home. We love getting them.

    Connie and Chris
    a.k.a. Ladyandtramp 2019
    Okumaya devam et

  • Our Projected Itinerary

    9 Aralık 2019, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    This year, we are heading to an old favourite and on to a new destination for us. The plan is to spend 6 weeks in Pacific Mexico and another 8 weeks on a road trip around New Zealand’s north and south islands. We will join our long-time travel friends from Bellingham, Pat and Gail, in Mexico for 3 weeks. Our friend, Donna, who lives in Elora, will be joining us for several days in Cambridge, Rotarua and Taradale on N.Z.’s North Island.

    Here is our plan so far. We will take a Red Car from Fergus to the Hamilton Airport and then fly to Puerto Vallarta (SWOOP) and then catch the local ATM bus east to Mascota where we will stay for 3 weeks. On January 3, we will meet Pat and Gail at the P.V. Airport and take a shared taxi north to Chacala.

    December 11 - MASCOTA - Apartamento Callie Morelos #92 (Margarita) - Air Bnb

    January 3 - CHACALA - Private 2 bdrm apartment shared with Pat and Gail
    - we will be meeting Pat and Gail in P.V. and sharing a taxi to Chacala

    January 29 - PUERTO VALLARTA airport - Fly to L. A. with Air Alaska
    L.A. to AUCKLAND through Fiji on Fiji Airlines

    January 30 - AUCKLAND - Grey Lynn - Air BnB
    — Rent a car at the airport Apex Car Rental

    February 3 - PAKARAKA - - Air Bnb

    February 7 - TE PURU - - Air BnB

    February 12 - CAMBRIDGE - with Donna at her friends’ house

    Feb. 17 - ROTARUA - Donna will stay with us here

    Feb. 19 - TARADALE - Donna close by

    Feb. 22 - WELLINGTON

    Feb. 23 - Return rental car to Apex 1:30 p.m.
    Feb. 24 - Pick up rental car from a Apex 4 p.m.

    Feb. 26 - Blueridge ferry to the South Island to MAPUA

    March 2 - GREYMOUTH

    March 3 - FRANZ JOSEF

    March 5 - WANAKA

    March 9 - ARROWTOWN

    March 11 - TE ANAU

    March 13 - INVERCARGILL

    March 15 - DUNEDIN

    Mar. 17 - TWIZEL

    Mar. 19 - CHRISTCHURCH

    Mar. 22 - HANMER SPRINGS

    Mar. 24 - BLENHEIM

    March 26 - FERRY to WELLINGTON

    March 26 - NEW PLYMOUTH

    March 28 - AUCKLAND

    March 30 - Return rental car to Apex 4 p.m.
    - Fly to TORONTO 7:30 p.m.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Packing List for 4 months

    11 Aralık 2019, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ -5 °C

    Before we go on our longer trips, we have a routine that we follow. We always get our hair cut, get flu shots, then head to the dentist who checks for loose fillings or potential problems. Then a visit to the doctor to get prescriptions for antibiotics for stomach, ear or respiratory issues. This year, I sprained my tooth two weeks before our trip! Imagine a sprained molar! I had to get a night guard ‘splint’ made and some meds to calm down the ligaments.

    It seems that we always pick up a cold about a week into our trip (the flight?) and it is best to be ready for it, so...I packed Tylenol p.m. tablets, Neocitron, and Ricola cough/sore throat candies. We have found that a good night time decongestant or cough suppressant has been hard to find in some countries.

    From what we have read, the weather in Mexico and New Zealand will be very pleasant with daytime temperatures in the 20s C. and cooler nights. Perfect. No reason to take heavy clothes.

    By the way, just for some interesting information, here is a basic starter list of clothing I found on one of my searches, which just about covers everything:

    Clothes

    2 long sleeved shirts
    2 short sleeved shirts
    2 tank tops (shells) for layering
    1 lightweight sweater, preferably merino, (or cashmere)
    1 fleece or down vest
    1 pair jeans
    1 pair long pants
    1 pair capri/shorts
    1 pair leggings
    1 skirt/dress
    7 pairs underwear
    3 pairs light socks
    1 pair heavy socks
    3 bras
    pajamas
    bathing suit
    waterproof travel jacket and fleece

    -------Connie's Packing List-----

    Main Pack: eBag TLS Mother Lode Weekender Junior Convertible (3 lb 11
    Travelon Packable Crossbody Tote (personal item, laundry bag, grocery bag, Packable)
    Red Kipling crossbody purse

    Clothes

    Eagle Creek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #1 - Contents
    1 sleeveless top (black) (light-weight, loose-fitting, quick-dry)
    4 short-sleeved t-shirts (Blue, grey, green, black)

    Eagle Creek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #2 - Contents
    1 black long sleeved T-shirt
    1 black leggings
    1 Eddie Bauer skirt
    1 loose rayon dress

    Eagle Creek Pack-It Cube #3 - Contents
    6 pairs of underwear
    2 bras (black and beige)
    1 pyjama bottom
    2 pairs of light socks
    1 pair of Smartwool hiking socks

    Mesh Bag
    1 - 2 piece bathing suit - bottom works as short shorts
    Sunhat

    Bottom of Pack

    1 pair of Kuhl Splash quick-dry hiking pants
    1 pair of grey lightweight The Northface pants
    2 pair Kuhl capris/shorts (grey, beige)
    Belt

    In the pack pockets

    Marmot Precip rainshell
    Skechers Gowalk sneakers
    Flipflops
    iPad Air 2 and keyboard
    Toiletries
    Led Flashlight (Mark’s)

    Toiletries in a Toiletry Bag and a Clear Bag for Liquids

    3 oz of shampoo/conditioner
    Neutrogena moisturizer with SPF 30 sunscreen
    Toothpaste, toothbrush and cap, and floss
    Antiperspirant
    Small bar of soap
    Razor and blades
    Finger nail clippers
    Hairbrush
    Tweezers
    Makeup (eye shadow, mascara, blush, eye liner, lipstick)
    Comb/hairbrush
    hair clips,elastics
    Safety Pins, 2 clothespins, rubber bands
    Laundry soap, line and flat stopper

    Wear on plane

    1 black tunic top
    1 blue thin cardigan sweater
    1 pair of lightweight black jeans
    1 light black fleece jacket
    1 pair of compression socks
    Running shoes ON Cloud (new)
    Buff
    Passport pouch

    Personal Item - Packable Travelon Crossbody Tote/ Laundry bag

    Kipling purse
    Small packs of kleenex and a change purse
    Alarm clock
    Luggage combination locks (no keys!) and a few plastic zip tie wraps
    Passport, ID Photocopies of front and back of all cards and page 4 of passport
    Health Insurance cards
    Sunglasses
    Eyeglass prescriptions
    Money (Euros)
    ATM card/VISA cards (Note: 4 digit ATM pin)
    N.Z. Guidebook and a small map; trip information
    iPad mini


    Other
    Addresses and phone numbers on ipad
    Family and Ontario photos on the ipad
    Mini calendar and small pen
    2 Moleskin books
    Extra Pens/pencils
    Door stopper (for security)
    Ziplock freezer bags
    Airline Tickets

    ----------------------Chris' Packing List ---------------------

    Main Pack: eBag TLS Mother Lode Weekender Junior Convertible (3 lb 11 oz)
    Day Pack: Onsight 15 L Daypack (1 lb 1oz)

    Clothes

    Eaglecreek Pack-It 1/2 Cube #1 - Contents
    3 short-sleeved Icebreaker Tech T light Tshirts (light weight, loose-fitting, quick-dry)
    1 golf shirt
    1 blue plaid long-sleeved shirt

    Eaglecreek Pack-It Cube #2 - Contents
    5 pairs underwear (Saxx)
    1 pair of pyjama bottoms
    4 pairs socks
    Buff

    Mesh Bag
    Bathing trunks
    Ball cap

    1 pair of black, lightweight Arterex pants
    1 pair of green Arterex quick dry pants
    2 pairs of Kuhl shorts
    Marmot Precip rain jacket
    Haviannas flip flops

    Wear on plane
    1 pair of Levi 541 denim jeans
    1 Belt
    1 Icebreaker t-shirt
    1 Icebreaker hoodie
    1 icebreaker full zip jacket with zippered pockets
    1 pair of Smartwool socks
    ON Cloudventure Waterproof trail shoes
    Watch
    Passport pouch
    Motorola G5 Plus phone

    Travel Necessities

    Wallet and Change purse
    Luggage combination locks (no keys)
    Passport, ID and Photocopies of fronts and backs of all cards and passport
    Health Insurance card
    Prescription for eyeglasses
    Money/ATM card/VISA card

    Toiletries
    3 oz containers of shampoo/conditioner
    Small packaged hotel soaps were put in Pack-It bags (keep clothes smelling nice)
    Toothpaste, toothbrush and cap, and softpicks
    Antiperspirant
    Razor/blades/tube of shaving creme
    Eye glasses prescription
    Comb/brush

    Other
    Gear organizer bag
    Mini Anker portable battery charger
    Sony mini bluetooth speaker (love it!)
    Cables
    Earphones

    Personal Backpack

    Small First Aid kit (with only a few of each of the following) - Tylenol, Ibuprofin, Aspirin, Peptobismol, Gravol (Dramadine), Imodium, Hydrocortizone, Bandaids, Chapstick, Alcohol Prep Pads, Polysporin, Eye drops, Ear drops, Vaseline, Benadryl night, Sudafed, Cepacol lozenges, allergy pills, Magnesium for sleep, Small Sewing kit and Eyeglasses screwdriver

    LED flashlight
    iPad mini
    Pen/pencil
    Snacks - Coconut chips, nuts, chocolate
    Okumaya devam et

  • Fergus to Mascota via Puerto Vallarto

    11 Aralık 2019, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ -6 °C

    Well, today is the day that we set out on our 15th grand winter adventure. All the flights have been booked, the accommodations reserved, the car rental and ferry crossings in New Zealand made and now we are ready to go.

    We arranged to have a Red Car cab take us to the Hamilton airport at 4:15 a.m. and the driver was right on time. He said that he had to pick up one other couple in Guelph who were going to Florida. We arrived at the airport at 5:45 a.m.

    We had booked really inexpensive one way flight tickets with SWOOP, who we had heard poor comments about, but we have no complaints. All went smoothly and we had an empty seat between us to use. You do not get any extras, including water, without paying, but we knew that going in. We took sandwiches and had a coffee in the airport lounge.

    Btw, we love the little Hamilton airport. It was a breeze to do what we had to do and at 7:30 a.m, we were in the air.

    By 11:30 a.m., we arrived in steamy Puerto Vallarta (28C). It was -20C when we left Canada. We did get a dreaded red light to check our bags but there were no problems and it was done quickly.

    Outside of the airport, there is an OXXO where we got our Mexican phone chips charged up.

    Taxis in airports are usually more expensive so we went outside and took the pedestrian bridge over the Hwy to catch a taxi there. On the other side, there is a wonderful burrito restaurant called Tacon de Marlin. The food is amazing! We shared a shrimp burrito and had 2 Modelo beers before catching a yellow taxi to the ATM bus terminal in town. It cost us 130 pesos, about $10 and much cheaper.

    Timing was pretty good. There are only 4 buses a day and one was leaving at 2:40 pm. It cost us 165 pesos (around $11) each for the 3 hour trip Into to the mountains. We arrived in Mascota at 5:30 p.m. there is still lots of sunlight at that time.

    Mascota is a small town of around 8,000+ so it is not very big but in a lovely valley surrounded by mountains. We used Google maps to find our apartment which was only a 5 minute walk away.

    The lady, Silvia, who will clean our place and tend to our needs was there to give us our key and show us things worked. We contacted our landlady to ask her a few questions (re water, garbage, recycling, cleaning days, etc.) and then headed to the square for our first authentic tacos in 2 years.

    We feel that we picked the perfect little Mexican town for our first three weeks.

    We got back at 9:10 pm Ontario time) and were fast asleep in minutes.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Our Flat in Mascota

    11 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Here is what our flat (Calle Morelos #92) and the town looks like. The whole town takes pride in keeping the town in shape. Yes, it is dry time and the roads can be dusty but daily cleaning is obvious. Our flat is amazingly clean. The landlady wants us to be happy. We love it!Okumaya devam et

  • Day 1 in Mascota - A Hike and a Parade

    12 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our flat is in a great location, only about 2 blocks from the centre so it is close, but just far enough away for some peace and quiet. This is Mexico, you know! Always a cacophony of sounds.

    The first thing that we always have to do, is a basic food shopping. So, we wandered around a bit and found Mascota’s grocery store. It’s not big but seems to have a little of everything, including ... blocks of cheddar cheese! This area is an agricultural area with lots of cows in the valley so there will no problem finding dairy products.

    We couldn’t resist stopping at a taco stand on the way and the tacos were so good. A good decision, as we could not ignore the yummy smells coming from the stand.

    Food shopping was a breeze. If the store didn’t have something, like Bailey’s, the very helpful attendants pointed us out in the right direction to find those things. The people here are very helpful.

    The rest of the morning was spent cleaning everything in the kitchen to our standards. Now we were ready to settle into the next three weeks in Mascota.

    We ate ham and cheese sandwiches and then went out to explore a bit. The town is small but spread out. It is in a valley surrounded by mountains. People have lived here for hundreds of years.

    Last night we could see a lit cross high up on a small mountain, called Cerro de la Cruz. If there is a cross on a mountain there is probably a path leading to it. We walked from the main square, down our street to the beginning of the trail. The first part of the walk is on a rough road and then you go through a small gate to the trail. The path for the first part of the walk is wide and not too steep. About halfway up, 600 stairs (I counted) continue to the top and have been made with the names of Mascota’s families written on the face of the stairs. A cool idea.

    You pass a few horses and a few people walking their huskies and then you reach a place where there is a beautiful view of the city and a small chapel with archaeological finds placed around the site. Then the walk becomes steeper. At the top is the cross and a view of the entire valley. Not a long walk, but we are up about 4,500 ft and I am out of shape. Haha. Good exercise and a reward of a beautiful view at the top.

    We walked home at around 6:30 pm and it was still light outside. Once the sun goes behind the mountains, it gets dark quickly.

    Today is a big holiday for religious people in Mexico - Virgen de Guadalupe Day. I love the story about this Mexican virgin who is loved by all.

    Church bells have been ringing all day and fireworks scaring away evil spirits. In the early evening, people were walking to the centre as a long parade was going to take place. We joined the crowd and enjoyed the closeness of all the people. A real community. So many people were at the church that the service was held inside the big church as well as outside in the courtyards.

    Today was a nice introduction to the lovely little village of Mascota.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Unfinished Temple of the Precious Blood

    13 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today, we woke up to the usual morning sounds in Mexico - the church bells, a chucking gecko, roosters and cars rumbling by on the cobblestone street. For some reason, there doesn't seem to be many noisy dogs here. The sun was shining as we walked to Dona Esther’s in the market for breakfast.

    We stopped at a tourist kiosk in the Centro to ask about a calendar of events. Lots of activities will be going on here during the Christmas holidays. The posadas start on December 16 and Christmas decorations are being put up all over the town.

    Breakfast in Dona Esther’s was good old fashioned Mexican fare - scrambled eggs, chorizo, beans and fresh tortillas. A green juice for Chris and a giant strawberry smoothie for me.

    We had an extra apartment key made at the hardware store and walked on to the ruins of a huge unfinished cathedral, Templo Inconcluso de la Preciosa Sangre.

    One minute we we walking on a dusty cobblestone street, admiring a couple of beautiful roosters (fighting?), watching as a cowboy rode by on a beautiful black horse and the next minute we entered the huge stone ruins of what was planned to be the largest cathedral in Latin America. We walked through a stone gate into a lovely garden, filled with bougainvillea and bird of paradise plants.

    I read this little blurb about the church:

    “The first stone of the Preciosa Sangre church was placed right at the end of the 19th century, but most of the rest of the construction dates to the first decade of the following century. The idea came from a citizen who wanted to build another big temple for the town. Construction was halted when the Revolution broke out and probably not resumed because of the continuing post-Revolution conflicts, especially in Jalisco."

    We were lucky to meet a Mexican man, Pedro, who took care of the gardens. He was happy to take us around and point out the details used in constructing this incredible building as well as to give us some Mexican history lessons about what was happening in this area during and after the Revolution.

    At present, one small section of the church has been completed and is used as a seminary for first year (18 year old) students. There is a chapel with a beautiful altar and one of two old statues in the world showing Christ bleeding on the cross.

    As we were coming home, it got hotter and hotter. It is quite cool in the mornings and evenings but a little too hot for us now at around 2 pm - siesta time!

    In the evening, the square was hosting a ceremony for recognizing raicilla makers in the area. Raicilla is a distilled drink made in a way similar to tequila. Here’s a little blurb I found about one company’s Raicilla made from a wild agave plant called Lechuguilla:

    “Estancia Raicilla Lechuguilla is made with the wild agave Lechuguilla in La Estancia de Landeros, about one kilometre above sea level in the Jalisco foothills. The agave used in this Raicilla are roasted in an adobe oven for two days, and Old Jack Daniel’s bourbon barrels are used to ferment the cooked agave. Once fermented, this Raicilla is double distilled in copper alembic stills.

    Estancia Raicilla is made in the highlands of the Sierra Madre Occidental. In 2014, Rio Chenery left New York City for the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico with the hope of making his family’s favorite drink. The legend goes that in the ‘60s his grandfather, who worked for the Tecate beer company, came across a rare agave spirit in the small mountain town of Mascota on a business trip and fell in love with it. The locals called it Raicilla, and over the years it became a family favorite. Estancia Distillery is founded with the vision of bringing this rare agave spirit to the world.”

    I will write another footprint about raicilla in a later blog. It is uniquely from this area.
    Okumaya devam et

  • The Archaeology Museum

    15 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Even though Mascota, is a small town, it has an excellent museum which is located right around the corner from where we are staying and housed in a former mansion. We thought that today, Sunday, would be a good day to learn more about the history of this area.

    We were greeted by a lady who went scurrying off to get us a booklet in English that explained all the displays. It was great having the booklet as the displays, written in Spanish, included numerous photographs, petroglyphs, contents of tombs and more than 600 archaeological pieces dating from 800 BC to 300 AD!

    The exhibits are the result of excavations in the region, some of them supported by the National Geographic Society and led by the American researcher Joseph B. Mountjoy. The archaeological digs were conducted in an almost thousand-year-old cemetery called "The Swamp" - a place that has a great cultural value in the area and believed to be a lake more than 2,000 years ago. Some of the artifacts were also from the sites "El Embocadero "and" Coamajales. "

    We especially liked a petroglyph with a game board carved into the rock called Patolli. Apparently, it was played like snakes and ladders. There were game boards for long games or shorter games. The game involves throwing dice and moving four pieces around the board, any of which can be “killed” if an opponent’s piece lands in the same space. Ancient patolli players, it seems, would bet blankets, jewelry or even their homes on the outcome of the game.

    We weren’t allowed to take photos in a few of the rooms but the ones that we did take are sufficient.

    Lunch
    Walk along river and suspension bridge
    8km in total
    Dinner at Navidad restaurant
    Okumaya devam et

  • A Hike to a Rickety Suspension Bridge

    15 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    A beautiful river, and several smaller streams, flow through this valley. We walked down a side street towards the river and decided to follow a track through agricultural fields next to it. A family was picnicking and swimming in the river and an elderly man and his dog were sitting on its banks, enjoying the peace and quiet.

    We got to a point where there were some rapids and we noticed a suspension bridge to the other
    side of the river. It didn’t look like a very safe bridge. Boards were missing, it was on a slant, and
    the guard rails weren’t really guarding. We crossed one by one as the bridge was definitely a swinging suspension bridge. Our mini thrill for the afternoon.

    After our walk, we headed back into town, where we stopped for a smoothie. There is a very cool, new coffee shop in the centre called Cafe con Leche y Deli. You can sit comfortably there and have a coffee, tea, or cold drinks as well as sandwiches or cookies. It is very nice. We bought their local coffee beans, and they ground them for us. About $7 Cdn (100 pesos) for 1 kg.

    As it was getting close to dinner time, we stopped at a recommended restaurant called Restaurant Navidad and had breaded cutlets with french fries, rice and little salad. The cutlets were so big that we took home half and will make sandwiches tomorrow for lunch.

    So, for under $20 Cdn we had two big meals with an appetizer, 2 Coronas and the tip. Pretty good value.

    Our total distance walked today was 8 km.
    .
    Okumaya devam et

  • Santa Came Today

    16 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    In Mexico, Christmas is celebrated from December 12th to January 6th.

    Today, December 16th, is the day that children start the 'Posada' processions. (Posada means inn or a lodging) For nine nights, posadas are held. These celebrate the part of the Christmas story where Joseph and Mary looked for somewhere to stay. For the Posadas, the outside of houses are

    often decorated with evergreens, moss and paper lanterns.

    Families hold candles and walk in a big group down a streets. They knock on the houses of friends and neighbors and sing a song at each home. The song they sing is about Joseph and Mary asking for a room in the house. But the children are told that there is no room in the house and that they must go away. Eventually, on Christmas Eve, they are told there is room and are welcomed in! We haven’t seen a posada in Mascota yet, but we probably will see one in the following 8 days.

    We have already seen some nativity scenes, known as the 'nacimientos', set up in the town. There is one in the centre of the town’s plaza. These are very popular in Mexico and some of them are very large, with the figures being life size or bigger. Sometimes a whole room in a house is used for the nacimiento. The figures are often made of clay and are traditionally passed down through families. In other parts of Mexico, we have seen these scenes with the traditional figures as well as camels and elephants, women cooking tortillas and some places even have flamingoes. Here, so far, we have only seen traditional figures in all sizes.

    At 8 p.m., children performed dances to upbeat Christmas carols, on a stage set up in the square.
    The weather is cool at night but actually quite pleasant at night so hot cinnamon drinks were sold to warm us up.

    Wouldn’t you know, a skinny Santa arrived in a truck with flashing lights and handed out chocolates with a flourish. So funny. His beard kept falling off as he lifted up kids and hugged them.

    There is a type of humorous Christmas play performed here, known as Pastorelas (The Shepherds). It tells the story of the shepherds going to find the baby Jesus. Along the way, the
    Devil and his troupe of devils try to stop the shepherds by tempting them in various ways. But in the end, the shepherds find the manger, often with the help of the Archangel Michael, who comes and beats the devil. The high school kids performed this play on the stage after the dancing.

    We returned home and heard some great drumming getting closer and closer. Then a band started playing and car horns were beeping. Santa (this one much fatter) and a full band were coming down the street in a trailer pulled by a truck. They stopped right beside our house, got out and played some great (loud) music for 1/2 hour. Then fireworks and dancing with Santa ended the program! They piled back into the trailer and they drove off.

    Christmas traditions here are a little different from what we have experienced in other places in Mexico. We are interested in seeing what happens during the next 9 nights.

    the end, the shepherds always find the manger. The local high school kids put on this play on a stage set up in the centre square.

    the help of the Archangel Michael, who comes and beats the devil!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Talpa de Allende #1 - Pilgrimages

    17 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    As I write this, the carillon in Mascota’s church is playing Ave Maria. We are only two blocks from the Central Park where gentle Christmas music is played all day long. It’s lovely. A flautist is making rounds in the street playing Silent Night and other quiet carols.

    Chris has taken our laundry to a little laundromat which is on the way to the lookout with the cross, so he will get some exercise going up the mountain while I write.

    Yesterday, we decided to go to the pilgrimage town of Talpa de Allende for a little day trip. When we stayed in Ajijic, near Guadalajara, several of our Mexican neighbours had talked about their walk to Talpa. Many walked the 200 km with bad shoes or no shoes. It was a very moving trip for all of them.

    Talpa is an old silver mining town founded by the Spanish in 1599 with a population of 10,000 and home to the Virgin of “Rosario of Talpa.” The beautiful Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Talpa that houses the relatively small statue of the Virgin was built in 1782 and is one of the most venerated religious sites in all of Mexico.

    Mexican Catholics and others regularly walk, ride horses, drive or bus to Talpa to visit the shrine, but especially during four holy festivals. More than 500,000 people visit Talpa annually and at times fill the small town with people, ‘wall to wall.’

    Talpa is not far from Mascota. We missed the bus that goes there at 8 a.m. and 9 a.m., so took a taxi. It is only a 1/2 away and the drive took us through a gorgeous mountainous landscape filled with pines. We could ask the driver questions about the area, so our drive became a mini-tour.

    As we went over a high ridge, we noticed that the whole valley was covered in an incredibly dense fog. It was a ‘Wow” moment! We couldn’t see the town down below at all, it looked like a sea of clouds. As we descended into the fog, the driver told us that in one hour it will all be gone as the sun burns it off. And that’s what happened.

    The first thing that we saw, were the two spires of the cathedral. I will break this footprint into two footprints as I want to talk about the pilgrimage site in this blog and about some of the special workshops we saw in the second footprint.

    The small statue, which has seemingly performed many miraculous healings, is the reason that many people have made the pilgrimage to Talpa for the past 200 years. Here is the legend:

    “The statue of the Virgin was discovered underground in a small chapel on March 24th, 1644. At that time, she was restored and taken to the church of a distant town. The next morning, the Virgin was back in Talpa. The people were awed; it was humanly impossible that someone could have taken her that far overnight. The faithful saw this as a miracle and claimed she must be alive. The priest took a hot object and put it to her face and there appeared a human-like scar, that still remains on her face to this day. Rosario is dressed somewhat like the Virgin of Zapopan, but she is dressed in blue and carries an infant in her arms.”

    As we entered the church, we noticed a young lady who was walking on her knees to pray to the virgin. It was a long distance and I know that I would never have been able to stand up after that trek.

    The church is beautiful and all decorated for Christmas. A band was playing religious music near the altar while we were there. Sometimes, I really see why people here flock to churches and I like it.

    We walked around the town a bit and then noticed a cross on the hill behind the church. Once again there were about 500 steps and some inclined roads to get to the top. We like doing these walks as the views are usually very rewarding. On the way up, we had a nice chat with a nun who lived in a house on top of the hill. She was complaining a bit about going up and down the stairs for all the masses. Haha. It kept her in shape. Lucky her, the best view in town!

    Coming down the hill using a different path, we met an artist who was painting a mural of the town on a building’s wall. Actually the whole little alley was filled with lovely murals showing scenes of the town what a great idea.

    We decided to find the bus station in order to buy our bus tickets back to Mascota. Not a difficult thing to do in such a tiny town. Starting to feel a little peckish, we were on the looked out for a clean little restaurant to eat in and in no time, we passed one with 3 laughing ladies in it. We asked where the best restaurant in town was and they laughed even harder and invited us in. We were not disappointed. The shrimp burritos in Puerto Vallarta were amazing but the bbqed meat burrito in this restaurant was out of this world. We had to order a second helping!!

    We sat in the centre for a bit people-watching and then walked around town checking out the little stores and the ‘workshops’. Talpa #2 footprint will go into more details about what we learned.

    Talpa Walking Stick before they leave here. It is almost like a badge that they have made the pilgrimage. Why these sticks are called Talpa Walking Sticks, I don't know because I've seen them in other parts of Mexico. They are made from a stick of bamboo. The root end is trimmed to form a three-pronged handle, which fits the hand very comfortably. If the bamboo is cut young, the handle fits a young child's hand; left to grow, it will fit a big man's hand. Some people call them burros, and I guess if you have an active imagination, you could see that they resemble a donkey.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Talpa #2 - Specialties

    17 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We came to Talpa to see the church and the little Virgin statue but Talpa has some specialty crafts that are only found there.

    The first thing that we noticed when we arrived in the town, besides the fog, was the sweet smell in the air. We were in Talpa for at least an hour before we realized what it wa bys. This town is known for a fruit leather-like roll made from Guavas called a Rollo de Guayabana and what we were smelling was the odor of the cooking fruit. We passed at least 4 places that were processing the fruit to make this roll. It is quite a process from fruit to packaged sweet. One kind fellow offered to explain the process to us. It is a specialty of this town.

    The second unique craft is one called Chilte. We understand that chilte is a type of white sap/rubber that they get from a special tree. They can heat the rubber and then shape it or make strings. Then specially trained woman make flowers, baskets, furniture, pots, jars, vases and intricate little figurines. I am not sure how they apply the colours. Probably painted.

    Not so unique, but unique to this area is Talpa coffee. We’ll have to give it a try.

    Next on the list are Huaraches, a Mexican leather sandal. We have seen huarache workshops in other towns near Ajijic but the sandals are slightly different. The work is intensive and a pair of kids shoes sell for about $1.30 Cdn. Besides leather shoes, they make belts and saddles here too.

    One incredible tidbit that I learned is that there are sugar maples in the mountains of Talpa. Sugar maples! Actually, some birders discovered in the 1990’s, a hidden forest with a real mixture of trees not found anywhere else. Here’s a little account of when botanists went there -

    “Driving up to a hill at 1764 meters altitude called La Cumbre, in a hidden-away arroyo called El Refugio, they were amazed to see not just one maple tree but a whole woods full of them, incorporated into an ancient fir-maple-conifer cloud forest, incomparably rich in diverse species of trees and plants. But the botanists were puzzled: the flora in the forest included species going
    back at least to the Pleistocene (2.6 million years ago) and possibly all the way back to the Tertiary era. How, they asked, did this system of ecological sophistication and integration survive for millions of years?

    Our botanist friends tried their best to explain to us that what made this place unique was its perfect balance. Plants and trees usually found in diverse climates had somehow learned to live together not just harmoniously, but so successfully that this forest had operated as a self-contained, self-sustaining unit since the Pleistocene age (or earlier). What looked like just another woods to us was, to our friends, the botanical equivalent of a symphony orchestra.”

    We would have loved to have done a tour with a hike to that woods but today we just didn’t have enough time.

    Our bus was heading back to Mascota at 2:45 and on the way to the bus station, we saw a place selling fire-roasted chicken. We knew what we were having for a couple of dinners. We picked up a whole roasted chicken, potatoes and rice but passed on the tortillas. As a promotion, a big bottle of coke was included. All for about $8 and it was delicious!

    By 3:30, we were home. A great day!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Yerbabuena - a village of 400, maybe..

    19 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today the two of us walked a very dusty road to Yerbabuena, a tiny neighbouring town in the mountains. Wouldn’t you know it, but a 3 day fiesta to the Virgen de Guadalupe, was on it’s third day in this village and we arrived just as the mariachi’s started playing in the square.

    It is a tiny place with a pretty pond created by a dam and big houses on large lots. As we
    wandered around the town, one man invited us in to have a coffee. He lives in Zamora, the city that we lived in when we taught English there, 20 years ago!

    Several logging trucks, full of logs, passed us. One driver stopped to double check the straps holding the logs. He had some pretty steep roads to negotiate on his journey and for sure didn’t want his load to shift!

    There really isn’t much information about this village, whose name means spearmint, or why it is where it is, but we had an interesting walk through farmland. Two favourite Mexican birds of ours are the bright red Vermillion Flycatcher and the yellow Kiskadee with its black mask. We saw lots of them as we walked to town.

    It was around 2 pm when we got back to Mascota and it was the perfect time to eat some wonderful tacos at a roadside stand before getting home. A 9.7 km walk. Not bad.

    It is a tiny
    Okumaya devam et

  • A Horse Cavalcade Parades through Town

    20 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The little town of Yerbabuena is having a horse show today. Horses and their riders gathered in Mascota, paraded through town and then rode on to Yerbabuena . Riders will show off their horses and also their riding skills. All the food for the festival was donated to spectators.

    We were tempted by several people to go but we decided to just watch the parade as it went through Mascota. The horses were lovely.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gnomes, or Mexican Duendes

    21 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    During the past few days, I have been checking stores in Mascota for items to make little Christmas gnomes for gifts. I had brought 3 pairs of fuzzy socks from home and now needed rice, string, thread, something for a beard and noses, decorations, and little elastics. I found most of the items in a store called Todo de Todo. It is like our $ store with a little bit of everything. I had to be a little creative though. Chris found a white fake fur child’s hat that when pulled apart provided me with material for beards, noses, stuffing and decorations.

    Gnomes, or duendes as they are called here, are a part of Mexican folklore. Apparently, a lot of people in the south part of Mexico believe that they are real. I started to wonder if a duende would make a good Christmas gift though...

    Here’s what I learned about them.

    Duendes are known as gnome-like creatures who live inside the walls of homes, especially in the bedroom walls of young children. They attempt to clip the toenails of unkempt children, often leading to the mistaken removal of entire toes... oh...

    Only few grown-ups can see them – unless duendes get drunk. Then they seem to lose all caution. If you catch a duende in that moment, you can keep him and have him do all kinds of chores for you. But, you have to treat him nicely and always offer him the first bite of your food. You do that by throwing it over your shoulder. If you don’t, the duende will get angry and spoil your food. In former times, people used to have a much closer relationship with duendes and offer them food and booze.

    Duendes aren’t very nice to naughty children. In fact, sometimes they kidnap them with the intention of eating them...

    Oh well, my duendes turned out pretty cute so I think that they will bring good luck and good health to the people we give them to.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Presa Corrinchis (Corrinchis Dam)

    22 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today is the Sunday before Christmas. All week the carillon in the church has been playing Ave Maria and then We Wish You a Merry Christmas early in the day. Today, we see lots of people all dressed up and heading to the morning service.

    We decided to take a taxi to a nearby dam that we had been hearing a lot about.

    The Corrinchis Dam is an artificial lake fed by the Mascota River. Actually it is very similar to the Shand Dam and Belwood Lake, but surrounded by mountains and a lot deeper. The dam has a length of 7.5 km, a capacity of 30 million cubic meters and reaches 50 meters deep. Construction began in 1974. There are some islands. One bigger one is called El Conejo and another, El Beso. Bass, catfish, tilapia, carp, and otters live in the lake. On the edge of the lake, the vegetation is made up of oaks, pines, cacti, nopales and some deciduous shrubs.

    At one time, all the land in this area was owned by one land owner who grew sugar cane. Now,
    the area has corn fields, squash, melons and lots of cows and horses.

    The taxi driver dropped us off in the restaurant area. People come to eat here at noon so only one place was open and we enjoyed the beautiful views and had a coffee. The owner was complaining that ants had stripped almost all of his Christmas cacti of their leaves and red flowers.

    It was such a lovey day, that we decided to walk back to town along the dirt road. It is close to a 10 km walk, mostly downhill, with lots to see. We were pretty high up so the views of Mascota were great. Chris will have difficulty picking only 10 photos to put in this footprint!

    Our end reward was a cold green drink (celery, nopal (cactus), orange juice and pineapple) and a gourmet vegetarian pizza at the Cafe Napoles restaurant.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Christmas Eve

    24 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It is busy in town today! Cars are being washed, people are in lines at the bank and the grocery store (Pepe’s) and we are sure that lots of cooking is happening. Tonight is the big night for everyone and then tomorrow will be quiet. Recuperating from hangovers?

    We were big spenders yesterday (haha) - had our laundry washed, dried, in the sun, and folded yesterday at the local laundry place one block away ($7), bought some coffee from Tepic which the store ground for us ($7 Cdn/kg), bought a bouquet of flowers ($4 Cdn), and ate an early Christmas dinner at our favourite restaurant called El Tapanco. We had an appetizer of squid rings with chipotle sauce, followed by a km rack of ribs, mashed sweet potato and banana and a delicious green salad and a drink ($40 Cdn which included the tip). Today, Chris had his hair cut ($5 Cdn) and we bought 4 sweet grapefruits ($1.50).

    The cleaning lady who lives next door was supposed to come today but asked if it was okay if she
    comes tomorrow, December 25. She has company today - feeding two truck loads of soldiers dressed in full army gear a Christmas lunch! She gave us clean towels and but will clean the apartment later.

    We met some people who were on tour from Puerto Vallarta and they were amazed that we found this town and on top of that a place to stay. In the last two days, two different people have offered us nice apartments to stay in for under $300/month! Our apartment is more expensive but we have a lovely clean apartment in a good location with solar water heating and everything that we need. The owner lives in Guadalajara but is easy to contact and acts immediately re any little issues or wants that we have.

    Last week, as we were walking to the village of Yerba Buena, we passed an open doorway. Chris complimented the lady who lived there by telling her that her flowers were nice. She promptly invited us into her home to show us her Charlie Brown Christmas tree, which she had just started to decorate. Obviously, she was very poor. The floor was part concrete and part dirt, the kitchen counter was a big stump and we have seen better furniture at the dump... but, she was happy to show us her collection of Christmas decorations and wish us a Merry Christmas.

    I decided that one of our gnomes would look nice with her tree and nativity scene, so we took one to her. Well, she immediately recognized us and once again invited us in. Her big son was there but was shy so quickly went into another room. She called him back and Chris took a photo of her with the ‘Good Luck” gnome. She was thrilled and wanted to put it in the manger scene! For sure, she will have a little story to tell her neighbours about the Canadienses who gave her the gnome.

    A restaurant in Mascota, called Navidad, is known for its soup called pozole. Pozole, which means "hominy", is a traditional Mexican soup or stew. Hominy is dried corn that has been soaked in a lye/lime solution. Grits are made from hominy. Pozole is made from hominy, with meat (pork or chicken, or both), and can be seasoned and garnished with shredded lettuce or cabbage, chile peppers, onion, garlic, radishes, avocado, salsa or limes. We got the basic soup as well as a big plate with all the garnishes so we could choose what we wanted in our soup. We managed to eat half of our huge bowls of soup and took the rest home. It is very filling.

    We decided that we would eat a simple dinner at our apartment, play a game of Quirkle and watch a movie. Mascota activities went on all night with bells and fireworks at midnight. Tomorrow should be a quiet day for a reason!
    Okumaya devam et

  • Christmas Day in Mascota

    25 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Quiet,quiet,quiet. The Baby Jesus has been added to the Naciamentos (Nativity Scenes), including the one in the central plaza.

    We wandered the streets and took some photos of Mascota.

    Mascota is not from the Spanish language (where it would be translated as "pet"), but named by the original population, the Teco Indians. It was called "Amaxacotlán Mazacotla", that means the place of deer and snakes. The Spanish called it The Valley of Deer. When you enter the town, there is a little landscaped area with a statue of a deer standing by some rocks and plants. If you look closely, you can also see a snake.

    In the second half of the 17th Century, Mascota established itself in its current location. Families
    built their houses wherever they wanted to, so when the time came to build roads and urbanize the town, it was impossible without tearing some houses down. The final result was a town with an erratic street layout built around those original houses. As someone said, “No, it was not a drunkard that designed it all...”.

    We really like the little triangular plazas with fountains and benches, built where streets meet - a place to sit and chat or eat tacos.

    There is an interesting story about a man born in 1888, who grew up in Mascota, became a priest and was later martyred during the Cristero War, 1927, for standing up for his religious beliefs. He was beatified in 1992 and later canonized in 2000 by Pope John Paul II. There is a statue outside of the Mascota church in his honour.

    Wikipedia says this about his last hours:

    “José María Robles Hurtado recognized the likelihood of his being killed for his actions, and wrote a poem in which he stated: "I want to love you until martyrdom".He was arrested on June 25, 1927, for saying a prayer in the home of the Agraz family, who were hiding him at the time. He was found
    guilty and sentenced to be hanged from an oak tree. The next day, before dawn, he was led to the
    tree. In a final display of compassion for his executioners, he offered them a small votive candle he had in his pocket to help light the path to the tree where he was to be hanged. Upon arriving there, he forgave the men for what they were about to do. He took the noose into his own hands, saying "Don't dirty your hands" to the man who brought it, kissed it, and placed it around his own neck.”

    This time of year seems to be popular for baptisms and weddings. We even saw a photo shoot for a girl celebrating her 15th birthday (quincenaro).
    Okumaya devam et

  • El Pedegral, Museum and Gallery

    25 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    There seem to be a lot of special places to see in Mascota and one of them is about 10 houses away from us, on the same street - the Museum and Gallery of El Pedregal. It is a unique building created by a man who is 85 years old and has lived in the same house for his entire life. This house has to be seen to be believed.

    Mr. Francisco Rodríguez Peña created a one-of-a-kind house filled with stone objects. The stones that he uses come from the beaches in Puerto Vallarta. Some of the stones are big and some are very tiny. They are different colours and shapes and he uses them to create guitars, piñatas, chess boards, pillows, caps, a television and telephones, and more. The tables, the toilet, the sink, even the decorative pillows on his bed! Everything in his house is decorated with pebbles and stones. What a labour of love.

    In addition to these unique crafts, he has a large collection of photographs (of course, in stone frames) of Mascota. Some of the photos date back to 1886! Yes, photographs were taken in 1886 in Mexico.

    In the center of the museum there is a stone wishing well and on the walls in the washroom, various local sayings had been written on little plaques. They were hard for us to understand as they were colloquial expressions. I am sure that the people in Mascota chuckled as they read and remembered the people who had said these words.

    Apparently, Francisco is also a writer and has a written a book about the history of Mascota. This kind and gentle man lives in the house and was our ‘guide’. It is times like this that we really appreciate having learned some Spanish.

    The Pedregal Museum is a visit that you will not regret doing; you will admire the various stone sculptures and you will leave there with a smile on your face.
    Okumaya devam et

  • A Walk to Find Petroglyphs

    26 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We started out the day thinking that we would like to do a little hike to the area north of Mascota called El Malpais, to find a petrified field and an old volcano called El Mocajete. We walked to the archaelogical museum and asked the lady there if she could tell us how far away that area is and what would we see if we went there.

    She responded by telling us that it is private land and we would have to get permission to go there. But she had an idea. She could phone a lady who could arrange a 3 hour hike with a guide to petroglyphs that are nearby for $14 Cdn! And the guide could meet us in 15 minutes in the square. Wow! That’s service.

    We met Carlos Fernando, a young man with a love for archaeology, who did a great job passing on his knowledge of the ancient history of Mascota.

    We started out by walking towards the dam that we had visited about a week ago, but then took a left turn on a dirt road that passed corn, squash and bean (the 3 sisters) fields and cattle farms. The views were beautiful.

    Passing a big tree, we heard some birds making a racket high in the branches and were surprised to see Magpie Jays! The only other place that we have seen them was in Nicaragua. Magpie Jays are blue, black and white but they are much bigger than our Blue Jays and have an incredibly long tail. We were not able to get a good photo of them though. A farmer told us that they were called Urracas.

    A ranchero (cowboy) was rounding up his cattle and kindly let us follow a trail through his
    property to the petroglyphs. Chris took a photo of him and he asked for a peso, tongue in cheek. He looked pretty well off.

    At one time, the river that flowed through the valley must have been really big. There are high rocky cliffs that must have been at the shoreline. Petroglyphs covered the big rocks in that area. It was so easy to see them. Carlos had brought some chalk so he could make the designs clearer for the camera.

    Apparently, some of the places were ceremonial sites. A place where shamans made the engravings as prayers for sun, water and fertility. Spirals symbolized water and concentric circles with rays symbolized the sun but other interesting designs. There were designs with scorpions that are the guardians of corn and two hunters carrying a bag of deer blood that would be used in ceremonies. On the rocks, there were also pictures of shamans, footprints, animals that had human characteristics and monsters.

    Some rocks had shallow bowl-like indentations on them where small fires would be lit. Once again, this ritual was used in praying for rain. The indigenous people here were farmers so sun and rain were vital.

    In one sheltered spot, there was a crack in the cliff and way back in, the rock wall was white. During the summer solstice, the sun shines into the crack and lights up the white inner rock. Two rocks had been carved as thrones for the shaman and his helper. There were many petroglyphs in this area.

    We walked on to another area. The land is private but the farmer gave Carlos a key to open a gate so we could see more petroglyphs. We had to walk through a milpa (cornfield) to get there but it was worth the effort and the scratches on our legs, from all the thorny plants. Scrambling over a rocky pile, we came to an area that at times is still used by the Huichol Indians as a ceremonial site.

    There we saw clearly the Snakes and Ladders-type game that I mentioned in the museum blog -
    Patoli. The game board is engraved right into the rocks and four people played this Snakes and Ladders-like game. We saw several of these game boards in the rocks in this area.

    While we were there, we must have disturbed a vulture who was sitting very close to us in the
    shade. He was a big bird and startled us somewhat as he flew right beside us.

    We walked about 8 or 9 km and by the time we got home, I was aching a bit. We weren’t walking
    on nice level ground but up and down through farmers’ fields. Great exercise!

    As mentioned, Carlos did a great job of answering our many questions, in Spanish. He was patient and kind. We may hire him again if we have time.

    It was amazing seeing those ancient engravings that aren’t mentioned in any guidebook. It was hard to stick to only putting on 10 photos. All of the pictures were super!
    Okumaya devam et

  • An Old Cinder Cone Volcano

    28 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Not every day is sunny here and today is one of those days. But cloudy days here are great for long hikes and for taking some good photos, so ...

    We went on a 4 hour walk to an old volcano called El Molcajete. A molcajete is a round basalt stone dish with three little legs used for crushing items, like chilies, used in cooking. (Mortar and pestle). The volcano that we saw, is cone-shaped and has a deep impression in it that can be seen in aerial views. It looks like a molcajete.

    Our walk, north of Mascota took us past fields of yellow sunflowers and red chilies. People were in fields with huge baskets on their backs, picking the peppers.

    The views were amazing! Rows upon rows of old volcanoes, just beyond the farmers’ field. It was exceptionally quiet in this area, as few cars drove on this country road so all we heard was the sound of birds, and the occasional sound of a cow, goose or rooster. So tranquil.

    It started to rain just as we returned back to the town. Perfect timing.

    As we had walked 10.5 km on a mostly cobblestone road in the mountains, we felt as a treat we would drop in for a delicious vegetarian pizza and limonada at the local Italian restaurant, Los Nopales. At the end of the meal, getting out of our chairs was a little difficult and it wasn’t just because of all the food...
    Okumaya devam et

  • Search for a Good Raicilla (Rye-see-ya)

    30 Aralık 2019, Meksika ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Mexican Moonshine - Tequilla, Mescal, Raicilla. We had heard of the first two but Raicilla? What is Raicilla?

    In a few days we will be meeting up with our Bellingham friends, Pat and Gail in the beach town north of Vallarta. A few happy hours will probably be on our presently non-existent agendas. So ...why not look into finding a good raicilla to take to Chacala?

    Raicilla is a pre-hispanic, moonshine-style version of mezcal that is distilled in the Jalisco coastal towns like Puerto Vallarta and its surrounding little villages, such as Mascota. Coastal raicilla tastes different than the raicilla made from a small wild agave grown in the mountains.

    The process of making raicilla is similar to that of Oaxacan mezcal.

    1. Grow a wild agave (typically Maximilana or Lechuguilla) for six to eight years.
    2. Fire-roast it in a clay oven.
    3. Mash it by hand in an oak ‘ canoe-shaped’ log trough.
    3. Ferment the shredded cooked agave “mash” in wooden oak barrels.
    4. Distill once.
    5. Water down with fresh spring water.

    (Distilling tequila requires Blue Agaves to be steamed in stainless steel ovens.)

    The drink itself is ancient but has started to become an upscale drink. I believe that it is now sold in the U.S. and quite expensive. Funny knowing that it was once a humble beverage, primarily enjoyed by farmers.

    Mezcal was forbidden and taxed heavily after the Spanish conquest. So production moved underground. When tax collectors came to small villages, locals lied and said that it wasn’t made from the piña or agave heart (which was taxable) but from its root (raicilla)” — which, of course, is the same thing. They called the drink Raicilla which means “Little Root”.

    We have seen bottles of Raicilla all over town and when we first arrived, there was a raicilla festival taking place. We learned that the best raicilla is made from the wild Maximilia agave plant, which is known as Lechugilla here. It grows in the mountains surrounding the town

    The raicilla museum here is housed in a very old mansion in the centre of town, which is being renovated right now. Not much of a museum but we were able to sample a few shots. Strong stuff (70 - 150+ proof!). The people who enjoy drinking it, take it straight, on the rocks or mixed with Squirt/grapefruit juice.

    Buying a bottle of raicilla for us would be a hit or miss when it comes to quality and taste. We don’t know enough about good and bad, or the cost of a bottle. So, we thought that we would ask our land lady, who would most likely could give us good advice regarding what kind and where to buy it.

    I did do some research and the few good commercial raicillas kept coming up, like the white Estancia Raicilla Maximiliana. But that raicilla is made in the neighbouring town, Estancia, and we wanted something from Mascota.

    Well, Margarita gave us more than good advice. She asked her husband, who grew up in this area,
    if he would find us some good quality stuff. He kindly went out to a ranch and he got us the real
    deal. No label and in a 2 litre plastic bottle. Thanks Andres!

    So, Pat and Gail, are you ready for a few (lol) 4 o’clock happy hours with ‘the best’?

    P.S. We did find a great roast chicken place and bought a full chicken, coleslaw, tortillas and salsa for dinner.

    No label and in a 2 litre plastic bottle. He assured us that it was really good.

    Well, Margarita gave us more than good advice. She asked her husband, who has lived here all of

    his life, out to get us some good stuff. We got the real deal, without a label!

    I did do a little research and Estancia Raicilla Maximilia keep popping up as a good commercial
    raicilla. But that is made in Estancia, not Mascota. We will see what Margarita says.
    Okumaya devam et