A 9-day adventure by Eileen Read more
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  • 2.9kmiles
  • Day 1

    At the airport

    August 5, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Waiting to board I’m struck by how differently I feel about this adventure than about the last two. There’s next to no fear, (with the exception of the usual dread of the flight itself), but there is also a lower level of excitement and anticipation. I think I’m just kinda tired.
    This has been a stressful summer. At the beginning of spring I told Grant that the yard and the house has just gotten to be too much work. Not that I ever actually DO the work mind you, but even THINKING about the work has me stressed out! So, after a little wheedling and cajoling, we came to a decision to put the house on the market and downsize. And that has dictated how the summer has gone.
    In between volunteer work, grandkid sitting, and trips to the cabin we have been preparing to market our house.; meeting with the realtor, the stager, making what turns out to be some major and costly repairs, plus going through the bins and boxes and bags of detritus and minutiae that we have been lugging around for lo these many years. Many trips to Goodwill, leaving anonymous crates of ephemera on my daughters’ doorsteps, guiltily relegating way too much stuff to the landfill. It’s been a lot. Feels like every moment is spoken for. My old retired brain is used to lots of downtime to wonder, waste time, dream and now it is being called on to be productive. All the time.
    And then 2 weeks ago my mom fell again and needed surgery and without anyone to advocate for her was sent home unable to complete the most basic tasks on her own. One sister flew in and then I took the second shift in getting her the help she needs. Amidst all this, my brother in law developed multiple pulmonary emboli and almost died. Thank God he is ok now. Then last week Grant texted after what I thought was a routine visit to the eye doctor to tell me he had a tear in his retina. That entire afternoon was spent with him seeing specialists and getting scanned. Surgery was scheduled the following day. I was seriously considering cancelling Iceland altogether to stay home and care for him during his recovery, but after talking to the docs decided that he would be ok on his own.
    So here I am. Just tired. And if I were hiking on my own I would consider this an apt time to rejuvenate. But I’m hiking with a group of people I don’t know, which will require me to be at least somewhat sociable, Though I can do it, this requires stores of energy that I am just not feeling right now.
    Well, time to board. Hope I can sleep on the plane.
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  • Day 2

    Reykjavik

    August 6, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    After an uneventful flight I arrived in Reykjavic at 7 AM. Took 2 buses to get to my hotel, the Reykjavic lights. BTW, no Uber or Lyft in Iceland. Wonder of wonders, the front desk lady actually had a room available to put me in, (she charged me $30 for early checkin - worth every penny!). When I opened the door to room 318 I could see why it was available. In fact she may have just had someone clear out a coat closet right quick! When they say “twin” , they ain’t messing around, It was about the size of your average jail cell. But as they say, it was clean and I was dead tired. So I broke the cardinal rule of overseas travel and I took a nice long nap. And it was wonderful.
    Feeling refreshed-ish I decided to walk the 2 miles into town. Last time Grant and I were here we did a walking tour of Rek, (That’s how us cool people refer to Reykjavik.)., but we didn’t spend much time just, you know, loitering. That’s because a certain husband of mine hates to loiter. Oh, he’ll be all like “No honey, that’s fine”, but while I poke into this shop and that he just kind of…lurks? And I can see in my mind’s eye his inner toe tapping and my inner Catholic school girl guilt going wild. So, though I love him lots, it’s fun to just take my time and absorb the energy of a place on my own.
    It’s a great walkable city. Very clean and safe. I think Iceland is rated as the safest country. I’m pretty sure that’s because, as I understand it, the criminal element hates the cold. Also because- no guns?
    Anyhoo, got back to the hotel @ 6:30 and was in bed at 7:30 for a looong, deeep sleep, having left a wake up call and set my alarm for 5:15 to meet my group down at the bus station.
    I awoke to a totally light room and looked at my watch. 9:30!!, NOOOOOOO! I had clearly slept all the way through and had missed the departure of my group by hours. Always cool and calm in a crisis, I began whipping my pajamas off thinking, “There is clearly something wrong here!!). Totally disoriented, I managed to dial the front desk, my intent being to verbally rip whoever was lucky enough to answer a new one! “I left a wake-up call for 5:30”, I shouted into the phone. “Yes, madam?” “Well, what time is it now?” “9:30”. This guy was sounding way too calm in the face of my own hysteria. “AM or PM?”, I asked, the tiniest edge of mousiness creeping into my voice.” “PM.”. “On what day?”, ever quieter and more subdued. “Sunday, August 6, 2023”, said he, adding the year like he thought I was disassociating. “Ok. Thanks”.
    So. It is now 12:21 AM. I figured as long as I was up may as well have a snack and ate the 1/2 a Margherita pizzaI had left from dinner.
    And now I get another 5= hours of sleep. G’night,
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  • Day 3

    Laugevegur

    August 7, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    So. This is a long one today.
    The day started with me getting up PLENTY early for the rendezvous with my group at the bus station. I was expecting once again to be the oldest broad there, but to my surprise, most of my companions were (ahem) mature women. I noticed another woman that was traveling alone and we sat together on the bus.
    Man! Ya wanna talk about a fascinating lady! Her name is Ginny. She is from Connecticut, divorced with two grown sons. Her ex husband was an alcoholic who happened to be in one of his multiple rehabs when they had a COVID breakout. This was right in the spring of 2020 before the vaccine. And he died. Anyhow. That has nothing to do with the story. I just found it interesting.
    Ginny had always dreamed of being in the Peace Corps but she got married and had her babies at a very young age. So when her sons reached adulthood, she went ahead and followed her dream! IN HER LATE 40’s! I commented that I thought most Peace corps volunteers were college aged. She said they were and that she was by far the oldest in the group that was sent to Zambia. In Zambia, Ginny attended language school for 3 months and took other classes such as “How to care for your bike”. Peace Corps volunteers don’t drive. Their only modes of transportation are by foot or by bike. Ginny was sent to a small village and moved into a mud hut the same as the locals who lived there. She talked about how she had to build her courage to go out into public because whenever she went out the villagers would stop what they were doing and just stare at her white face- mouths agape. One of her first strategies was to meet and talk with the tribal chief. Ginny says that many of the tribal chiefs in Africa are highly educated and speak perfect English. That surprised me! Anyway, Ginny lived in her little mud hut among the villagers and worked with the families to establish efficient and effective farming methods. She became a part of the tribe for two years and has been back twice to visit with her “family”. She said she absolutely loved the whole experience and wishes she would have stayed longer. Talk about courage!
    She came back and got a Master’s degree in environmental studies. She now works for a nonprofit and works with farmers to develop farming methods that are kinder to the earth.
    So- my first new friend. And there were several groups of women that I felt would be cool to hang with.
    About an hour into our 4 hour drive we stopped for coffee and bathroom break. Re-boarding the bus, I reached over to grab my pack and my knee turned in an odd way. I heard/felt a loud “snap”- sort of like a too tight guitar string finally giving way. And I wasn’t exactly quiet about the pain. I knew immediately that this was not good, but settled into my seat just hoping it was not anything serious. And it honestly didn’t bother me at all. Until it was time to get off the bus. When my knee just- gave out. So I attributed it to stiffening up after the ride and tried walking on it for a bit and it was feeling better. I told our guide , Siggy about it and he insisted on putting me through a test. Day 1 is the most challenging day of the trek with lots of “stair” climbing. We went over to a raised walk way and had me step down. I did so gingerly and it was ok. Then he had me step up and at that moment my knee gave way and down I went with a loud yelp. Siggy looked at me and said “I’m sorry. You can’t go.”
    Are you friggin’ kidding me? I mean- it’s not even a good story! I got injured on the friggin’ BUS! Didn’t even step foot on the trail.
    I was really really sad and mad and embarrassed! I texted my family to tell them what happened and they were all over it within seconds! Cailin was booking me a hotel for the night and Megan was contacting her friend Payal who lives in Iceland. Payal was over hiking the Faroe Islands in Denmark but she got in touch with her …friend? Boyfriend? (I don’t know and I’m not sure they do either), Fearghus, who is a physical therapist for the rugby team in Reykjavik. A nice lad from Dublin. Grant in the meantime was contacting my trip insurer to find out what needed to be done from that angle.
    Fearghus offered to meet me at the hotel and check things out. I cried all the way back to Rek. In the meantime I had contacted my sister Maggie who is a physical therapist as well, who hypothesized that I had torn my miniscus. Fearghus confirmed the diagnosis and gave me instructions for treating it. He also called a hotel on my behalf to get a refund and walked over to the convenience store to get me a phone charger, as all my electronics are in my big duffel which had already made its way to the first mountain hut. Iceland guides are hoping to get it back to me sometime tomorrow. The hotel staff where I am staying were also quite wonderful. They even loaned me a cane!
    Sometime after Fearghus left, I and my cane went down to find something to eat. Who do I run into but Fearghus? So we ended up having a very nice dinner together.
    So. Wasn’t the post I had hoped to write , but stuff happens, I guess. And what I most feel now is simply…gratitude. So many people I love working together to get me out of my predicament. And to God for blessing me with all of those people in my life.
    I’m still unsure of when I will get on the plane to return home. I need to wait until my duffel comes back and am hoping the time allows the stiffness and swelling in my knee to go down. But I did notice this hotel has a spa…
    Took very few pictures today. As you can imagine, I wasn’t much in the mood to play tourist. But I did get a pic of Ginny and one of Fearghus. And one or two of Laugevegur.
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  • Day 5

    Last Reykjavic Morning…For Now

    August 9, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    One last little hobble around Rek this morning before catching a cab to the bus station.
    I had a decision to make. Art Museum vs Penis Museum, (or the Icelandic Phallological Museum, if you wanna be formal about it.). I mean, I can go to an art museum in any city, amiright??? As it was I just entered the lobby and saw enough penises there to sate my appetite, so did not pay the price of admission. Also they had a little cafe with the most delicious looking penis shaped waffles but alas, I was still full from breakfast.
    Hobbled down to the waterfront and took a few pictures. Honestly, Reykjavik is a great city but 1-2 days here is plenty to see what you want to see. Had I been more mobile I would have done an excursion or two but as it was I was getting bored.
    There are some things I will miss though:
    1. The Europeans really know how to do coffee. You don’t go into a coffee shop and get a 24 oz Big Gulp of mass brewed Joe. You usually get a little demitasse cup and it is always served with hot milk. It always feels so refined to me.
    2. Baked goods, especially croissants. I don’t even think Iceland is particularly known for their bakeries but they have a lot of them and OMG the PASTRIES!!! There is a saying in the addiction field for those who are trying to maintain sobriety and wonder if they can hang out in bars. “If you hang around in a barbershop long enough, eventually you’ll get a haircut.” I have amended that for my drug of choice, (flour, sugar, butter) to be, “If you walk by enough bakeries with delicious pastries in the window you will eventually buy and eat at least a half a dozen of them”.
    3. The people. I was talking to an Icelandic woman yesterday and just remarked on how kind they are. She said, “I wouldn’t call them kind. It’s not like they’re warm or anything. I would say they’re practical. If you have a need they will figure out the most practical way to help you.” Whatever. It felt like kindness to me.
    So…heading home. While I’ve been gone we’ve been having the entire interior of the house painted- from a warm terra cotta that complemented the cherry woodwork to a boring creamish color. This was, of course at the urging of the realtor and stager. My friend Gayle refers to them as a “bossy lot”. Grant has been sending pictures, and let me just say I have really been filled with regret over this. On the upside though, it has totally increased my motivation to move! But the painting is still in progress and I anticipate that the house will be in total disarray. News flash- I don’t deal well with that.
    So…I’m gonna work on my own presentation and pre- calibrate my nervous system to just go with the flow. Good luck to me on that!

    Well- while disappointing, this trip hasn’t been a total bust. I met people that have impacted me in big and small ways. I have a renewed gratitude for my family and their love. I’m already making plans to come back and do the hike next summer and have already enlisted son in law Matt and Payal and possibly even Fearghus to do it with me and that’s just a start.

    Next up on the adventure docket is a trip to Peru with my Kili buddy Cynthia in April.

    Until then.
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