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Beautiful Switzerland
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  • Начало поездки
    11 сентября 2023 г.
    Beautiful Switzerland

    Travel Day

    11 сентября 2023 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Traveling tonight from Philadelphia to Zurich, where a car and driver are waiting to take us to Luzern.

    We’ve been planning this trip for nearly a year, and it’s been Deb’s dream for as long as she can remember. We’ll even visit the home of her ancestors, near Zurich.

    Mountains, lakes, glaciers, villages, valleys, rivers, and cities as this Alpine country welcomes Autumn.

    We are approaching travel differently for this trip:

    -Traveling by train will be part of the fun
    -Minimalist packing has us going with carryons only and travel back packs that convert to day packs for hiking. That will make our train travel easy and factors in all the quaint , old hotel’s with no elevators.

    There’s even a packable tote bag to hold the compression packing cube when we take them out of the travel backpacks and store the luggage at the hotel pre-checkin.

    Deb’s been training at the gym for 6 weeks so she can haul all her stuff and do the mountain hikes! She’s watched endless hours of YouTube backpack reviews to come up with the perfect gear for us.
    (Yes, it’s been an obsession.)

    5,4,3,2,1 is the mantra for packing basics:
    5 sets of underwear
    4 tops
    3 bottoms
    2 pairs of shoes
    1 jacket

    Doing the above while planning layers to address three seasons (Summer temperatures in the valleys, Winter temperatures in the mountains, and Autumn in between) has added to the challenge. We’ve got thermal gloves AND swimsuits!

    Going to be keeping score on how well this works out!
    —————————————————————————-
    Score 1: roller and backpack fit perfectly in a small overhead compartment on the 787.

    Score (-1): Somehow neglected to close the hydroflask properly and dumped water into the water bottle pocket. Pocket is waterproof. Recover 1/2 point.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Hotel AnkerIconic Chapel Bridge and Water Tower

    Luzern - Day 1

    12 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Luzern is beautiful, set on the Lake and the Reuss River, surrounded by mountain peaks. Full of European charm, lived in, and vibrant.

    After a long time in immigration and a quick trip from the Zurich Airport, we arrived at Hotel Anker. They had arranged for us to have early check-in and a larger suite, which was much appreciated. The hotel is not far from the Old Town, the Harbor, and the Train. It's all very walkable. The included breakfast is excellent, and the hotel restaurant is also great for dinner.

    A few photos from our walk in the Old Town. Commercial/retail buildings in the Old Town must have residential upper floors, so the Old Town is lived in and home to real people. There’s a noticeable absence of junky tourist shops.

    The weather here is very changeable. During our walk, it poured rain, but we were treated to a beautiful rainbow.

    To escape the rain, we darted into the Opus Wine bar and treated ourselves to Swiss pastries and cappuccinos.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland

    Jungfrau

    13 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Today was our day to explore Jungfraujoch “The top of Europe,” and we gave it our all despite rain, fog, and snow.

    We had a wonderful Guide, Bruno Caicxo, who helped us get the best possible experience from our day. We saw the Ice Palace, Sphinx Observatory, and ultimately added an outing to Harder Kulm, “The Top of Interlaken.”

    We traveled by car, Gondola, Cog Railway, and Funicular between valleys and mountain tops. Finished it off with lunch at the Harder Kulm Panorama Restaurant as an enormous bank of clouds rolled in.

    Luckily, we have more time in the Berner-Oberland and Jungfrau region to wait for sunshine and see the peaks. Bruno taught us how it’s done!

    (besttransfers.CH is Bruno’s company. Highly recommend.)    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
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    Jungfrau Summit

    13 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    The Sphinx Observation tower
    An ultrafast lift takes you to the international research station's astronomical observatory. It climbs 108 meters in 25 seconds from the Jungfraujoch railway station - the highest railway station in Europe. On a clear day, there are views of Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau.Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Deb and Bruno back at the Hotel Anker lobby

    Top of Interlaken: Harder Kulm

    13 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    We rode a funicular to the top of Harder Kulm to catch the view from the Observation area overlooking Interlaken. The Panorama restaurant at the top serves traditional Swiss foods, so we warmed up with hot chocolate and cheese fondue. We had clear views for a moment before the clouds rolled in. No chance of hiking on this trip. The walk down must be great.Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland

    Cruise on Lake Luzern

    14 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We'll miss Mt. Pilatus and Mt. Rigi on this trip. We checked the mountain cams and discovered it was a cloudy day on the peaks, so we took a cruise on Lake Luzern. It was a peaceful way to conclude our visit to Luzern.

    The city was chartered in 1178 and is rich in history. At the beginning of the 14th Century, the City joined with other cities and Cantons to form the Swiss Confederacy and achieved freedom from the Hapsberg Empire and Austria. The roots of modern Switzerland are here.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Gondola stop at First
    Eiger North FaceView Jungfrajoch from First Cliff Walk

    Grindelwald First

    15 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Grindelwald is like a storybook illustration. All around us are views of Eiger Northface, and Jungfrau. Our hotel is an old traditional Inn, run by the same family since 1899. The Hotel Gletschergarten window boxes are full of flowers. Our room is small but recently remodeled and has amazing views.

    Although the train was a little late, we still had time to check-in to the hotel in Grindelwald and walk to the gondola up to First. It was spectacular and breathtaking to walk out onto the Cliff Walk.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Fresh spring waterThe 3 PeaksBratwurst and RostiThe Panorama Trail

    Mannlichen, Kleine Schiedegg hike

    16 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We woke up to beautiful sunshine and in the mountains that means- Go Hiking!

    We had a great breakfast at our hotel. Every place we’ve eaten the food is fresh, local and delicious! We filled our water bottles with fresh spring water. A quick bus ride delivered us to the Grindelwald train terminal where we hopped on a gondola to Mannlichen.

    Mannlichen has jaw-dropping views of three peaks: Eiger North Face, the Monch, and the Jungfrau. And cows grazing!

    There’s a number of trail heads in Mannlichen and we choose the “easy” downhill Panorama Trail hike to Klein’s Schiedegg. It was spectacular. Photos do not do it justice. There were picture perfect views around every turn.

    Just 0.6 miles from the end of the trail, we stopped for a traditional lunch of bratwurst and rosti. The cable car from Kleine Schiedegg took us back to Grindelwald- where Deb immediately bought new hiking boots,. Delaware is flat. The old boots were fine. Not so in Switzerland! The new boots have thicker soles, greater stability, and are 1/2 size bigger!    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
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    Les at the trail head1Cable Car from Mannlichen to WengenLauterbrunnen ValleyView of the valley with Lauterbrunnen at the bottom.

    Hike Wengen to Lauterbrunnen

    17 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We’re learning that an”easy” hike in Swiss terms is about as much as we can do!

    Today , we took the gondola to Mannlichen, caught the cable car to Wengen (4,200 feet) and hiked from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen.

    It’s a relatively short, (3k) hike on a very steep downhill trail (15% incline) that’s a challenge for knees, hips, and toes. The elevation drops 535m! Took us 2 hours with stops for water and photos.

    The reward is a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, complete with waterfalls.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Coeur des Alpes HotelLobbyLooking up towards the MatterhornSuite 202

    Rainy Day Train Ride to Zermatt

    18 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We left Grindelwald by train this morning for Zermatt. It’s cloudy and rainy in both locations, perfect for a travel day.

    We successfully made three train changes: in Interlaken, Spiez, and Visp. The Swiss Railroad system is awesome—always clean and on time. Our itinerary and tickets are on our phones. The travel agent, Jayway Tours, arranged all our transportation ahead of time. All we have to do is show up and follow instructions—no stress at all. Our in-country "helper," Karen, checks in to be sure we're okay and ended up where we're supposed to be!

    We got glimpses of two waterfalls but not much else to see along the way.

    We were greeted with a glass of cold Prosecco at our Zermatt hotel, “Coeur des Alpes.” The boutique hotel is beautiful and has a completely different vibe from the beautiful and quaint Hotel Gletschergarten in Grindelwald. It’s very modern, with lots of glass. Our room is a spacious suite with Matterhorn views once the clouds clear out.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Hotel Courrs des Alpes
    A stone marker on the hillside identifies the hotelTo keep the mountain air pure, Zermatt prohits cars. The hotels have electric carts like this to taTunnel to ground floor hotel elevatorHotel LobbyHotel breakfast roomSuite 202 living roomFirst thing we see after waking up.Lying in bed looking over our toes.Spa, indoor pool

    Coeur des Alpes Hotel

    18 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Our hotel in Zermatt is absolutely stunning! It sits on the hillside, two levels above the street. We access the lobby through a tunnel and elevator. The lobby floor is glass as are the stairs. Under the lobby is a fabulous spa with a heated pool, infrared sauna, icy rain shower, and massaging shower. The design is very modern with a bit of steampunk. And everywhere, huge windows look out to the Matterhorn.

    There are hidden hearts ❤️ like hidden Mickeys all over the hotel.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Riding up in the gondolaWalking to Schwarzsee LakeSchwarzsee LakeSchwarzsee Lake and Maria zum Schnee ChapelChapel AlterChapel windowMaria zum Schnee statue (Maria of the Snow)Eye-catching MatterhornEntering the Ice Cave at Glacier ParadiseIce CaveLayers in the Glacier tell a storyGlacier crevasse in the Ice CaveIn front of BrighthornStaircase to the Observation TowerGlacier Paradise Observation PointGondola over the Glacier

    A Matterhorn Glacier Paradise

    19 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    Tuesday, we were met by our guide, Judy, for an all-day adventure. The weather favored us with beautiful Matterhorn views in the morning.

    On the way to the top, we stopped At Schwarzsee Lake and visited the Chapel. Switzerland is a Catholic country and the mountains are sprinkled with Chapels. This Lake and Chapel have been a pilgrimage site since the early 18th century.

    Continuing to the top, Glacier Paradise, we visited the Ice Cave. Then, we climbed to the top of the Observation Tower where you can see the Paradiso Range of the Alps and glimpse Italy and France. Too bad, the clouds obscured our view of Mont Blanc.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Gornergrat StationThe Matterhorn is shining for us!Gornergrat ChapelGlacial LakePanorama of Glaciers at GornergratGornergrat Glacier

    Gornergrat Railway

    20 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Since we began planning a visit to Switzerland 30 years ago, a ride on the Gornergrat Cogwheel Railway has been a “must-do.”

    We walked from our hotel to the train station just in time to catch the 10 am train. Clouds were expected to increase throughout the day so a morning view would help.

    The views of the Matterhorn from the train are overwhelming. And the summit is the best of all. The mountains are on one side and the glaciers on the other.

    We lingered for hot cocoa, watched the 360-degree movies (Zoom), climbed to the Observation Deck, and then got back on the train - heading down to Rotenboden for our hike.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Riffelsee Lake with Matterhorn reflection
    Hiking to the Lake, with the Matterhorn peaking out from behind.Riffelsee Lake looking away from the Matterhorn, reflecting the glacier.Riffelseeweg TrailFamously confusing trail sign. We manged to avoid Top of Switzerland. Yikes!The die is cast: we take the Riffelalp trailPanorama of the mountain range from the Riffelalp trailView of Riffeleberg StationRiffelberg Chapel, where Deb will pray for hiking poles.The end in sight

    Hike Rotenboden to Riffelberg

    20 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ 🌫 43 °F

    We rode the Gornergrat train down one stop from the summit to Rotenboden and hiked the Riffelseeweg and Riffelalp trails down to the next train station, Riffelberg.

    Yes, it’s a lot of Riffels.

    Like all our hikes in Switzerland, it was called “easy” and was about our maximum in skill and strength. For the record, Deb wants to note that we did all our hikes without poles. And , yes, that is a complaint.

    The Riffelseeweg took us directly to Riffelsee Lake, a well-known photo stop where, under perfect conditions, you can get a photograph of the Matterhorn and its reflection in the Lake.

    We continued on the trail wending our way through the rocks, mostly descending… until a new choice emerged: continue as planned on the Riffelseeweg or take our chances on the faster but perhaps harder Riffelalp.

    We went with the Riffelalp and got to the station just in time for the next train to Zermatt.    Читать далее

  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Train Car 25BitschRealpGhackets & Hornli and apple compote on the sideTaminsLandwasser ViaductHospentalCazis

    Glacier Express: Zermatt to St. Moritz

    21 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We boarded the 8:52 train in Zermatt for our all day ride on this iconic, panoramic train. 🚂.

    The railway runs through green alpine valleys , hillsides of farmland and larch trees, alongside glacial rivers, in the shadow of mountain peaks. The landscape is dotted with chalets, cows, and sheep. The Swiss could have invented the word “pastoral.”

    The train ride invites you to relax and immerse yourself in the countryside. There’s even a channel on the entertainment system that plays endless Swiss folk tunes!

    An onboard restaurant serves passengers drinks and meals cooked from scratch on board. They offer a selection of Swiss traditional foods and some international dishes.

    We were seated next to a multigenerational family of six who were visiting Switzerland from Singapore. Their little ones (ages 4 and 6) behaved beautifully for their 6 hour ride. We enjoy talking with the parents and grandparents. It was amazing how alike our families were, despite living at opposite sides of the planet. Travel is not just eye-opening, it can be heart-opening as we realize how alike we all are. ❤️

    A highlight of the trip is the Landwasser Viaduct , a single-track six-arched curved limestone railway viaduct. Opened 1902, it has stood the test of time and is an engineering marvel.

    We cruised into a very quiet St. Moritz - asleep until the BIG winter ski season. We’re just here overnight. Tomorrow we head to Zurich.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    LobbyOur room with its pine doorAmazing Barley Soup and a great mixed salad to start!

    Hotel Hauser

    21 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Our overnight in St. Moritz is the Hotel Hauser.

    The Hotel Hauser was a great place to stay and dine after our Glacier Express train ride. It is extremely eco-conscious, with an emphasis on local resources and sustainability.

    The hotel uses all natural, local materials in its construction- larch wood and pine, quartzite tile, and woolen textiles. On request, you can get a pillow filled with pine shavings! They recommend it highly, so we’re both sleeping with one tonight.

    We had dinner in the hotel restaurant, a Rick Steves recommended “good value.” It was excellent!

    They also have a bakery. Perhaps we’ll pick up some snacks tomorrow morning for our train ride to Zurich.    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Opera House of ZurichGrossmunster ChurchAdler Hotel Swiss Chuchi Restaurant has lines waiting for Cheese Fondue all day longTowering mural in the hotel.Inside the Adler Hotel roomMural in our room

    Arrival in Zurich

    22 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    We took a noon train from St. Moritz , through Chur, to Zurich and arrived around 4 pm.

    Marco, our eTuk Tuk driver/guide, picked us up at the Hotel Adler at 6pm. He introduced us to his constant companion ( a 13 year old Jack Russell Terrier named Max, settled us in, stocked up the vehicle with cold white wine and hot cheese fondue, and off we went on a tour of the city!

    (BTW- Riding with Marco was like hanging out with Martin Short!)    Читать далее

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  • Beautiful Switzerland
    Surb River
    Endingen SynagogueLengnau Synagogue

    Endingen - Lengnau

    23 сентября 2023 г., Швейцария ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Saturday, we honored my ancestors.

    The towns of Endingen and Lengnau were once home to all the Jews of Switzerland. They were not ghettos in the usual sense of the word. . Jews and Christians lived together in these towns, though Jews were prohibited from owning property and could only work in specific professions until 1868, when Switzerland ended its restrictions..

    Both Synagogues remain and are cared for, as is the Jewish Cemetery located between the two towns. There are very few Jewish families in these towns today.

    While I didn’t find my direct ancestors, I felt that I was with family. All around me were familiar names: Guggenheim, Bloch, Moos, Dreyfuss, Bollag. A community. Their lives were hard and they lived with conviction, integrity, and love

    I prayed at the Synagogue and said Mourners Kaddish at the Cemetery. Because they chose to live in Switzerland, my family survived the Holocaust. I have my life because my great, great grandparents sent their daughters to the United States,.

    My heart is full of gratitude and respect for all of them. Their memories are a blessing.    Читать далее

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  • Окончание поездки
    25 сентября 2023 г.