Martin Hammerschmidt

Having equipped each other with the proper attire (helmet, headlamp, pants, jacket) and equipment (dynamite, water, juice, cocoa leaves), we drove to one of the entrances of the mine. Towering above us was the Cerro Rico mountain in which the mine is located. It was an impressive, but also slightly scary sight, knowing that the mountain is filled with tunnels, explosions, etc.

Before heading into the mine, we had the chance to talk to two miners that were about to go inside for work. They were quite open in their conversations and told us a little bit about their lives and what it is like in the mine. Then, after sending a quick prayer to El Tio - the protector of the mine (more on that later) - we started our tour and entered the mine.

Hundred meters or so inside the mine, breathing became difficult as the mixture of the high altitude, the mask and the dust made it tough to get air into the lungs. In addition, the mine was clearly not build for tall people and while we could still walk, we had to bend our backs in order to continue. It was silent in the mine and apart from our footsteps the only thing we could hear was silence. It was an eerie atmosphere. Our eyes had slowly adjusted to the limited light that was only emitted from our headlamps.

After reaching an intersection, it was time to descend 70m. I had expected some ladders, but no. We had to literally crawl down on our hands and keens with the ceiling not higher than one meter at times. Being close to the ground as we crawled meant that more and more dust was hitting our faces and lungs.

Breathing really turned into an exercise. It was a tough going and Maria and I looked at each other out of breath and shaking our heads asking ourselves two things: Firstly, what the hell are we doing, and secondly, how on earth can people work here every day - it's inhuman. I think at that point Maria cursed me as well and maybe slightly hated me for bringing her here - I jokingly promised her a 5-star luxury holiday resort the next time.

Once we reached the lower tunnel, we walked only a short few meters before grouping together - it was time to assemble, arm and detonate the dynamite. With the TNT and nitroglycerin in hand, we followed the steps our guide instructed us with and after 5 minutes we basically were holding a bomb in our hands.

Revealing a lighter, our guide lit up our fuses and told us to follow him deeper into the mine to place the dynamite. It was quite a thing when he said: "Don't run". I mean, in my hand I had a fuse on fire connected to dynamite and about 2 minutes until everything would explode. Not knowing any better, we followed our guide as instructed, placed the dynamite deeper inside the mine, walked back and then waited for the boom. It was a muffled explosion but quite a spectacle nonetheless. I mean, after all, where on earth would I be able to legally buy dynamite, arm it myself and then watch it detonate. And, above all, in one of the deadliest silver mines in the world. It's actually completely ridiculous, when I think about it.

Anyway, after surviving the explosions, we continued our tour through the mines stopping at another El Tio again. Our guide blessed him with cocoa leaves and prayed for protection and good fortune. In the 'underworld' El Tio is the protector of the miners, but in the outside world he is referred to as the devil. Not too reassuring to be honest. We also listened to the stories that our guide, an ex-miner, told us about life inside and outside the mines. It was extremely interesting, but, once again, I could not contemplate how people can work under such conditions. It is simply unimaginable.

Afterwards, we made our way to exit the mines, but with one last encounter that made us all really appreciate what life in the mines is like. We met three miners that were working that day. They were pulling and pushing a lorry with their bare hands and body, without any mechanical or technical equipment. The lorry was full of stones and when the lorry derailed a bit, we helped them put it back on. I can tell, that thing was heavy as hell. They stopped and paused and we took the opportunity to ask them about life in the mines and gave them the juices, cocoa leaves and other things that we had bought before. They were very grateful.

They even let Maria and I give it a go and push the lorry. I mean, we managed to move it a few meters and gained some momentum, but the tracks are so poorly maintained, the ceiling so low, the air so thick with dust and the lorry so heavy, that it was difficult to maintain the momentum.

This random and - at least for us - lucky encounter was truly eye-opening. Such working conditions stretch beyond any imagination and thinking that people work here 5-6 days a week is almost impossible to contemplate. The physical and mental toughness of these miners must be outside of anything I have seen before. If I had not seen it with my own eyes, I would have thought miners working under such conditions is just a tale to scare children to study hard.

I will never complain about my working environment ever again - this tour was one of the best, yet most horrifying experiences I have ever done.

Once we said goodbye to the miners and exited the mine, all of us were immensely relieved to be outside, breathing fresh air and to have survived the tour. We were still slightly in shock about the 3h we spent in the mine. But yeah, rarely has a tour been filled with such an opposite mix of emotions and so worthwhile at the same time!Leia mais