Meseta hospitality

After around eight kilometres, I arrive at the historical site of a pilgrim refuge, the building in ruins but the spirit going strong. A trestle in the gravel entrails bears coffee, some biscuits, a donation urn. We are invited to sit. It is the first of many gestures of hospitality today.

A church in the middle of nowhere stands quietly, its door open to a cool interior. A man appears to tell me I can use the bathroom in the house behind if I would like. I take a biscuit, leave a donation and shake his hand.

Coming to a small store with a handwritten sign on the door advising it closes at 2 and reopens at 5, I check my phone to see 2.14pm. A man emerges from a shed, asks if I want something. He unlocks the door, steps behind the counter and slices chorizo to make me a sandwich, asks if I want a Coke - cold or room temperature? I sit outside, hoping the cats he shooed away come back.

If this is the Meseta, I strongly suspect it's going to be the highlight of the Camino.Read more