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Camino de Santiago
  • Lexie Magill

Camino de Santiago

A 49-day adventure by Lexie Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 23, 2024
    Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Too-rah

    March 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Taking carry-on only for international flights is exactly the flex you'd expect. Every single person in three airports so far has looked at me and thought 'wow I can tell she hasn't checked any bags and that's all she's travelling with, what a wonderfully thin minimalist - monastic even - floating through the gates. She is very cool and I'll think of her fondly for the next 15 years'. I can absolutely see it in their faces.Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    An insulated thermos, freezer brick, USB powered lid and power bank. The lid has been least popular

    Smug-gler

    March 24, 2024 in Qatar ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Backpacking with medication that has to stay between 2 and 8 degrees has been, for months, my incredibly boring party lecture, and I do apologise to any of you I've managed to separate from the herd and drone at about it. You unfortunates will at least understand how pleased I am to be through security 3 of 4 without any shouting, crying, or confiscating.

    Hobart gave me the most trouble by far, scanned it three times and opened the canister to inspect (me, thermodynamically ignorant, suggesting it was 'probably alright' if he had a 'quick peek', him, solemn, nodding).

    Melbourne flagged the bag then waved away my explanations of the contraption as a nuisance to their true line of inquiry - is that sunscreen or yogurt, looks like yogurt. So there's a hot tip for any would be mules, distract them with dairy.

    Doha I was sort of most worried about, but they gave a truly unbelievable lack of shits which nearly got a heel click out of me. One more to go, transferring in Paris from international to domestic.

    Cross your fingers, if it works I might shut up about it, wouldn't that be a treat.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Upgraded room, surely they heard tell of me from the airport, my sleek world voyager rep precedes meYes ok we get it, it's the south of France you don't have to put it on

    Biarritz

    March 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Biarritz is taking the absolute piss. Full report (positive) later.

    P.s you'll note I've shut up about the medicine - don't argue just count your blessings.

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    21Found figs on that evening walk, and what I think is wild spinach.Outside of me hotel innit2Tired but happy, in an elevator even more petite than me

    Bizzy

    March 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So Biarritz is lovely, big surf scene here and it's got pockets of fanciness without being in your face about it. Always a sign of a town doing well when there are tonnes of e-cargo bikes and exotic mid-sized dogs. It shows they've got time to think about the nice-to-haves and space to physically put them. Also there's lots of public toilets?! That are free? Without a woman in it demanding coins!? If covid put a stop to that then it might have all been worth it to be honest.

    Check in wasn't until 3pm so I spent a few hours walking around the waterfront, grateful for the incredible stink resistant qualities of merino after four flights and about 40 hours in transit. This included a locally sourced Red Bull which was not big or clever of me but look it needed to be done, see previous sentence. Also it will make Josie laugh.

    Coming back to the hotel I was thrilled to receive a room upgrade and noted a strong orange velvet couch motif, thoughtful of them to make me feel at home. Unsure if I was more excited about my gigantic sandwich or a shower at this junction, I enjoyed them simultaneously.

    Laundry is going to be a daily grind so I knocked that out then, 4pm local time, crawled in for what I intended to be a small nap but ended up taking me to 9.30pm. I did a late night 5km walk, being Sunday and maybe just the way this place is, it was very quiet and I felt safe mum I promise.

    In a feat of self discipline I managed to fall straight back to sleep at midnight so I reckon I'm on the body clock bandwagon now, let's bounce.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    They've cleverly covered the wheels, the most upsetting part of the bus, to make a trackless tram!
    The bum of the TTThis is what peak transit looks like, idk what to tell you.Explicit user hierarchy we love to see it!Normal GA service from airport, look at their ticketing website for examples of fare types but €1.20If I absolutely had to I reckon I could drive this. How hard can it be.A parkiteer! Looked like sensor card access but can't see any more info. Note the care pole.Example of multi-modal network map, can be hard to do this with buses. I got the 36!

    P(retty) T(ragic)

    March 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    In what I'll warn you now is bound to become a series, I have spent half the day pottering around looking at and using public transport, and taking photos I trust will be inspirational/useful/incredibly annoying for the team back home. If you are the team back home, surely dedicating time in a Monday morning meeting to reviewing this - look, shiny!Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    That empty stool on the corner of the bar was mine

    Cafe au lait aka redemption

    March 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Mission of the day, which I set myself and therefore accepted, was to not let being a little bitch get in the way. A regret I bring home from anywhere with a language barrier I've travelled is prioritising 'not looking silly' over an experience I want, and as much as the French have a reputation for helping you along in your self loathing, damn it, I wanted a cafe breakfast.

    Well. Turns out either I'm amazing or the folk in Biarritz are angels or maybe everything just came together today. I stormed (walked) into Les Halles, and seized the day (ordered a coffee) and took up space (sat quietly on a stool) and took my bloody time (ordered a pastry when my coffee was gone) and demanded (muddled through) it all in French and DID IT (did it).    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    My mistake, Biarritz actually a giant minger. SJPP is the pretty one.
    2Registration office angels1Home for tonightVery famous bridge, marks the start, you'll recognise from The Way film I presume.2Being excited to get a bottom bunk, along with aisle seat on plane, is a depressing part of ageing.

    Big feelings on the start line

    March 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    You can start your camino anywhere really, and there are lots of routes to Santiago de Compostela.

    In the modern era St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP), a small town near the border on the French side of the Pyrenees, has emerged as the starting point for the route I'm doing - the Camino Frances.

    Which is to say I've been thinking about it for a while and it's pretty surreal to be here.

    The train from Bayonne to SJPP was a tiny thing, I think the trackless tram I got to Bayonne might have been bigger. It was so exciting to see other people with backpacks and sensible fabrics, I think we all got a buzz out of each other.

    First order of business was registering as a pilgrim and getting my very important credential, basically a pilgrim passport that lets me stay at pilgrim only hostels and collect stamps to demonstrate at the office on the other end that I've done the walk. I knew this office was volunteer-run but the sight of these white haired, multi-lingual, kind angels did give me a bit of a pang.

    Turns out I was right and the Napoleonic route is closed until April due to weather, so tomorrow will be straightforward with only one option available, via Valcarlos.

    Rolling into town without accommodation plans is a crime against my planner nature but it's the point, and I intend to get more comfortable with it. Today certainly went well, and you can't book the majority of pilgrim hostels anyway.

    Municipal ones are usually the cheapest, and the one here has 36 beds, split between 3 rooms. I snagged one for €12 including breakfast and was so happy to see a fridge and freezer (meds ugh) I nearly cried. VERY auspicious start!

    Bit of recon, some cat action (gets its own post) and look at that, it's started raining (the sky was threatening). It's wild to be here. Big feelings. Walk starts tomorrow.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Cat count

    March 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Goals are important, and one I've got in 2024 is to pat 50 cats.

    This was going pretty terribly, as I burned through the low hanging cat-fruit quickly with B and the three that live on my street - one of which has since moved away, I presume his family went with him.

    So I was needing a cat a week and facing a massive deficit. The pressure was on for Q2 as if past performance is an indication of future returns I'm going to have to make up my entire quota on this trip. The shareholders were spooked, the stocks were wobbly.

    I'm pleased to report we are off to a flying start, with my grubby mitts landing on two (2) cats within hours of getting to SJPP. That's nearly 50% year to date yield. Phew.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Obligatory dork selfie on the start line
    Most important turn of whole walk is turning right (via Valcarlos) not left (closed death mtn) here1Morning was rainy green pasturesFrench/Spanish border is in this carpark, I think whichever Gov approved that should lose territoryAlmost certain this was a garden shed stop SHOWING OFF1Right on 💅Squealed in delight that the trail (note the marker) took me past thisAnd hereAnd here

    SJPP to Roncesvalles - part 1

    March 26, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    It's been difficult to know which language to start with on the first day of the Camino because we are in France, but Spanish is the language of the Camino, and as much as English is probably the common language with whoever I'm talking to, it feels super arrogant to launch straight in. Might just start screeching g'day at people so we all know where we stand.

    After a truly rubbish night's laying still (sleep would be an overstatement, I think I called the jetlag triumph early) it was finally 6am and reasonable to get up. I joined some early risers in the kitchen, intermittently poking a hand out the window into the dark to confirm that it was still both cold and raining, and talking about what lay ahead. This, incredibly, involved a chat with an Australian guy about how much he likes bloody George Town. What on earth.

    About 7.30am I was strapped and clicked and covered and on my way. Today is supposed to be the hardest day of the whole thing, which is probably a combination of soft new bodies, distance, and elevation. Adding rain was a genius move from the great sky dispenser, it added to the gravitas.

    The elevation is all crammed into the second half so my plan, informed by a complete lack of competitive spirit and relative abundance of time, was to break the 27km into two days by staying at Valcarlos and do the hard bit tomorrow on fresh legs.

    Did I? Go to part two, don't forget to like and subscribe!    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Lunch in honour of Bran and Block

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 4 °C

    After four hours of walking, I figured it was lunchtime, and as I was in Valcarlos, I had a decision to make - stay here for the night or push on to Roncesvalles?

    To help me think, and invoke the spirit of two thirds of my board of walking advisory angels, I whipped out a bit of food.

    For Branna - a heel of bread and a wedge of cheese, in the shepherd boy tradition.

    For Blocky - a pouch of tiny tiny salami, in recognition that jerky comes when you most need a boost, it's magic.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Snow got thicker
    And thicker1And thicker. I did eat some, obviously.Beaming exampleSlug example YUCK SLUGBefore the snowI trust those following will like my butterfly tread!? And think I'm cool?!Some feminine encouragement near the end

    SJPP to Roncesvalles - part 2

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    I pushed on - the absolute hubris on me, can you believe! This isn't what my itinerary said! I've dipped my toe into the fast and loose pool and it's nice in here.

    It was important for me to walk on my own today, and I managed to. At one point my hands were so cold I stuffed all my fingers in my mouth for warmth, that probably helped maintain some solitude.

    The route climbed and climbed until I was in the white stuff, which kept getting thicker and was quite frustratingly hard to get grip on, but the novelty outweighed it. I swung wildly between beaming manically (again, probably kept any would-be chats away) and wishing I was in front of a fire eating a steak.

    But I got it done, 27km in just under 7 hours, with breaks. Some quick stats now:

    Slugs avoided stepping on: 55,000.
    Slugs stepped on: 1.
    Cats seen: 1.
    Cats patted: 0.
    Gear MVP of day: Dad's hanky.
    Gear 'room for improvement': rain jacket pockets waterproofing.
    Lessons learned: pay attention to opportunities to fill drink bottle.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Get absolutely stuffed, this is it. Albergue to left, church and Charlemagne shit on right
    Practically running to dinner3Always interested to see what people valued enough to carry, and tempted to let the author know

    A vision in the snow

    March 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    Home for tonight is this albergue (pilgrim hostel) with a whopping 200+ beds, across three floors, in pods of four. In mine I've got Tigore from England, a 74 year old Swedish guy who was so committed to travelling light (4.5kg*) he refused to bring a sleeping bag and is now cracking it about being cold, and a Spanish speaking man wearing, and I shit you not, high performance suspenders. Everything smells like deep heat.

    The accommodation was €14 and when I arrived Ana, my Norwegian friend from breakfast at SJPP, let me know that she had booked dinner for 7pm so when asked at reception if I wanted to, I said yes without knowing what was involved. I was handed a laminated card that said Pilgrim Meal, and an extra €13 was added to my bill.

    In the intervening hours I had a thaw out shower, some laundry, a few chats, updated here, and read a bit of the book I grabbed in SJPP. In exploring, I saw sky dispenser has blessed me anew! Peep these vending machines, they count as odd because of the sheer number of them and the slight left-fieldness of their contents which include yogurt and sandwiches that will outlast me on this earth. Praise be to sky dispenser.

    At 7 we all excitedly hustled to the restaurant where I was on a big round table with Tigore and my Swedish bunk mate (emerging as a huge character), Ana, a guy from Padua, a couple from Minnesota, and a woman from Chicago.

    Over wine, bread, soup, pasta, a choice of chicken or trout, and strawberry yoghurt, we talked about the day**, what had brought us here, and our lives. Particular attention was paid to Lake Superior. I've never had such an enjoyable evening with strangers in my life. It was cliche and perfect.

    I'm going to sleep very well now, and hope nobody flushes the toilet that sounds like a jet engine and involves about 50L of water. Tomorrow is 5km shorter, downhill, and not raining. Can't wait.

    *I'd like it known that excluding my meds I've got 4.8kg which does include a sleeping bag so pipe down mate.

    ** Turns out that beech forest/snow slog Ana, Tigore, and I did was the bit the pilgrim office told us not to do due to weather and stick to the road instead. That was a bonding discovery. They also told me they were following my lead for directions from afar half the day, which was bold of them.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1

    Tip shop abroad

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    A fun game is emerging. I've decided you win by finding the most bonkers thing someone brought with them then culled, and I'll be playing against myself throughout the trip. This was my entry for today, strong odds.Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    To summon the spirit of Eva

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    ...the remaining third of my advisory board of walking angels, I decided this would be my wallet for the trip. I think its secure in the sense it shows any would-be thief that I have a sense of humour and style it would be tragic to disabuse me of.Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Sign outside Roncesvalles, we know.
    3Unsure why and how holiday has brought on more wrinkles but so be it, I'm above such vanities now🧘Pretty sure this is jelly, don't care looks coolBurgette, ft. Mr 4.5Kg, last seen arguing with Tig about if his spiky roller ball was worth weightMost of morning was through farm land, saw many animals, smelt much poop.This is a primary school.21I appreciate the trigger warning about cars, wish I had that at home.

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri - part one

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    A 22km stage today, optimistically framed by the gang as short and downhill, between Roncesvalles at 960m and industrial Zubiri at 520m. Got up at 5.45am once I heard the first toilet flush (I didn't have to try hard to hear it) as I figured that was the band-aid ripped off the peace.

    By 6.45am they were piping monastic chants through the PA to wriggle us on, they're very serious here. In the pod we had a laugh imagining the words of the unintelligible chant were "gettttttt outttttttt". With the ummmmming booming, I rounded a corner and nearly fell over a woman engaged in what with hindsight I recognise as yoga but at the time I truly suspected might be a possession in progress. She was bent at the elbows and knees to create like a table, with her torso and thighs as the top, and had her eyes closed. OUT (of my way) demon!

    On the road by 7am, which started with a truly lovely yet CRISP wander through dense woodland described in the literature as the home of "secret covens" in the 1500s, and when translated, named Oakwood of Witches. Excellent, all my love to the girls. While we're on the literature, I wasn't joking about the Charlemagne stuff, cop the attached page from the Camino bible.

    At one point the guy in jeans passed me, which was a good proof of life check for him as I did worry about his chafe and general health yesterday when I saw him leave SJPP. Every now and then someone with really swishy pants will come up behind me and I'm enraged by it by the time they stick the overtake, I can't imagine the cognitive dissonance it takes to put up with that all day.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Mission 'dont fall off' a raging success
    The baker in this town clearly does house calls, everyone had a baguette on their doorI think I saw Bobby, he was having absolutely none of meYUCK SLUGThe patted catLast 5km was all like this, those two Americans wouldn't SHUT UP about the hospital they work at

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri - part two

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Today's path is almost all off the road, which is good because I'd started to wave to cars that gave me space yesterday and clearly I was losing my edge. The mud got a bit annoying, but you can't have everything. As a result, there were long stretches of the day without an interaction (like a passing car) which made me *feel* more alone than yesterday.

    From my conversations so far, it's clear that medical motives are behind many journeys. A lot of what I hear is that they had a stroke (two at my table of eight last night) or other serious scare, and are walking with eyes freshly widened to life, in triumph and celebration of their opportunity to have a bit more of it.

    There's lots I want to reflect on and resolve on this trip, but also the need to balance that with being present for the experience. I think if I'm not careful it'll turn into my rot days at home, where I manage to completely inhabit the grey between productivity and relaxation, not doing either properly and feeling guilt about failure on two fronts.

    Yesterday I was completely mentally present on the walk. It was challenging, I had to pay attention, it was uncomfortable and beautiful and new. Maybe because today was less difficult, I found myself in my head for long stretches, asking myself questions I think I will only know the answers to once I've been doing this for a lot longer. I'm trying to show myself grace and not rush. Today is my third day of leave for Christ's sake. You probably can't get enlightened in a long weekend.

    To distract myself, I started thinking about how, at work, we could make the process of network variations more efficient (its going to need a LEAN workshop) and that was so boring that it forced me out of my mind and back into my body. While I was there I had a look around and realised steak was still on the agenda, which is interesting because I was - not consciously but in practice - reasonably vegetarian at home. We discussed at dinner there might be something about the experience that's sending us all a bit primal, and by extension, protein oriented. Perhaps tomorrow I'll kill a wild boar with my bare hands.

    Slugs: 1, at 9.54am
    Cats seen: 4
    Cats pat: 1    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Pork ribs and, bizarrely, tuna in the salad. No idea what the yellow on the ribs is, wasn't cheese
    Kindly EXPLAIN yourself albergue, certainly we aren't boiling milk?!

    Bulking up in Zubiri

    March 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Doing the bare minimum to read between the lines, you'll have determined I was in a weird mood arriving to Zubiri, which was not helped by checking into the supposed to be €8 albergue and getting charged 14. I fear the days of this being a viable pilgrimage are over, and I think all these price hikes are recent, because we got given a sheet in SJPP with all the albergues and prices and it's not lining up.

    Cold, feeling ripped off, flirting with glumness, I recalled the age old wisdom that a feed probably helps. I went to a warm bar and got LOTS of delicious calories. A pilgrim I'd leapfrogged a few times on the trail today was in there too and he came over to introduce himself. Luca, the Roman osteopath, proceeded to bitch about the price of everything which cheered me right up, as did his face when I pulled the party trick of switching to Italian.

    After plodding through my enormous meal with the same slow pace and determination I walk with, I felt ready to face the albergue again. On my return I had the worst shower of my entire life and could not connect to the wifi, cracked it, and went straight back out for a wine.

    It all perked up in the end, on the way back I ran into Luca and another Italian I'd met coming into Zubiri, and we hung out for the next few hours around the table with Nicole the private school teacher from London and Rusty the Australian and another guy. My Italian is better than Lucas' English so we tried to speak that so he could practice.

    Rusty's bank card has been cancelled, not because of transactions here but just awful hack timing. They're sending him a new card but on the Camino that's not super helpful. I spent about 45 minutes trying to get his new card on Samsung Pass so he could use his phone instead, before we realised he could potentially just transfer money to a pilgrim and they could withdraw cash for him. So began the potentially highly suspect Bank of Lexie. It was quite a wad, please pray as I do that this is an example of the Camino spirit. In Rusty we trust.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Instead of a smart watch

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    ...I have this photocopy wot that nice lady in SJPP gave me. See what I mean about SJPP to Roncesvalles? The top line is the Napoleonic route which was closed, the dotted bottom line is via Valcarlos. Much more chill yesterday (although that downhill bit at the end killed my knees) and today.Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Quads are going to double in size by Santiago you watch
    12Jeans guy also has a weird backpack, and LOVES overtaking me within the first 30 mins of the day.

    Fast and Zubirious

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Nicole found BLANKETS last night so I am starting today both well fed and reasonably rested which, turns out, makes a huge difference. I wrapped myself up then slotted myself into my sleeping bag, like a Beef Wellington if the bacon was a blanket and the pastry was a sleeping bag, and you squint.

    Off I go to Pamplona! I said, and got 50m down the road, did the speed trap (because I am at my core, a silly billy) then realised I forgot my bread and went back. I like to think anyone watching thought that was my whole day. Out, SPRINT, job done, in.    Read more

  • Lexie MagillCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Much more plausibly spring todayWhat the FUCK is this I miss the simple days of just slugs

    Zubiri to Pamplona - part one

    March 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    What an absolute Great Day. Folk pop usually makes me either really happy or really sad but the gamble with Noah Khan's Stick Season album paid off today and I was swinging my arms and tilting my head like Winnie the Pooh down the path. At one stage, without anything chasing me, I actually ran up a hill. Can you imagine.

    Gear MVP continues to be the hanky I stole off Dad, it occupies prime strap real estate and is summoned into service often. I'm actually starting to think I must sweat through my nose, I'm a drippy gal. If I was a dog, with my wet nose and bright eyes, I'd be adopted quick smart.

    Cats seen 1, cats pet 0, to be fair though I saw an information board about the amount of birds of prey in this area so I reckon they're just being stealthy. Luca caught up with me after a while, I heard him on the phone before I saw him, apparently someone was sending him a patient and he was trying quite hard to explain he was actually in a Spanish field at the moment and perhaps another doc could do it?

    Popping out of a hemmed in section, we encountered the cops parked rakishly across the path, stood looking serious in their surely over-engineered outfits. We all got sheepish for some reason and wandered over, assuming it was a passport check or a quiz about Jesus to confirm we were the real deal. Turns out, and bless their HEARTS, they were there to hand out cards with special pilgrim help numbers and insist we call them if we run into any trouble. I mean ACAB but it was sweet, good on em.

    Across the bridge from that, there was a cafe and we recognised a bunch of pilgrims in it and thought it was a good idea. In for a coffee by the fire, Nicole, Rusty, Marrick (Mr 4.5kg) and a few others turning up while we were there. We all discussed where we'd be staying in Pamplona, and I let them know I'd be staying two nights. I'm genuinely enjoying the easy company of this group, and am upset to move out of sync and potentially never see them again.

    On the flip side, I've known them for less than three days, and the part of me that gets too attached too quickly is one I'm working on out here. So, in an act of pulling my emotional big girl pants on, I think the fact I'm uncomfortable with moving out of step with them is the exact reason I need to do it.

    Oh ps the SUN CAME OUT.    Read more

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